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Routes as trad in Valley Of The Rogue

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Showing all 39 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Mount Ashland The Summit Formation
5.5 Snowbind Trad
Mount Ashland Mount Ashland Bowl
Crack Trad
5.2 Amp Chimney Trad
5.7 White Slab Crack Trad
Emigrant Lake Poison Oak Wall
5.11 PG13 Buttmunch

Usually top-roped. Chain top anchor.

FFA: Jerry Messinger

Trad 6m
5.5 Fire!

Bolted top anchor shared with Mr. Anderson.

Trad 8m
5.3 Tool Shed

Bolted top anchor shared with Bug Off.

Trad 9m
Emigrant Lake Aqua Wall and Aqua Cave
5.8 Pet Cemetery

Pro to 1".

FFA: Jim Davis, 1997

Mixed trad 24m, 4
5.10a Beyond the Siskiyou Sky

Pro to 1".

FFA: Jerry Messinger, 1997

Mixed trad 24m, 7
5.9 Poison Oak Crack

True to its name. The reachy crux where the crack narrows might surprise the short and fat fingered. Chain top anchor shared with Aqua/Hard Man. Pro to 1".

FFA: Jim Davis

Trad 20m
Greensprings Left Section
5.6 Marge Simpson's Backside

FFA: Gavin Ferguson

Mixed trad 1
5.10 PG13 Sky Pilot

Thin crack to the left of Boys Who Ain't French. Pro to 1".

Trad 18m
5.10a R Sky Patrol

Climb the 5.8 crack to a 5.10a move above small gear. Usually top-roped. Pro to 1".

Trad
5.7 Procrastinating Aliens

Climb the pair of cracks to the right of Sky Patrol.

Trad
5.7 Alien Life Forms

Climb Procrastinating Aliens using only the right crack.

FFA: Don Ransom, 1982

Trad
5.9 Deep Purple
Trad
5.10b Ski Tracks

Usually top-roped.

Trad
5.10c R Knobland

Bring a clip stick to avoid the R safety rating. If top-roping, bring long slings for the top anchors. Pro to 2.5".

Mixed trad 5
5.7 Snake-N-Flake

Not recommended. The detached column is dangerously loose. The top is chossy and run out. No good top anchor. Pro to 2.5" if you're not yet dissuaded.

Trad
5.8 Off-Width
Trad 12m
Greensprings Middle Section
5.11a Mexican Summer

Pro to 2.5". Requires a 60m rope.

FFA: unknown

Mixed trad 27m, 7
Greensprings Right Section
5.9 Mountain Jam
  1. Bolts lead to the crack in the dihedral. 2-bolt belay anchor.

  2. 20ft Follow the crack to the top.

Mixed trad 2, 3
5.9 Blitzfart
  1. Follow the thin crack up to a ledge. Gear belay anchor.

  2. Follow the crack to the top and a 2-bolt anchor shared with Mountain Jam.

Trad 2
5.8 Razor Crack

Classic fingers to fists crack up the obvious dihedral. Pro to 3.5".

FFA: unknown

Trad 15m
5.11 Razor Crack (Variation)

Stem and avoid the crack.

FFA: unknown

Trad 15m
5.10a Test Tube

Ascend the dihedral between Last Chance and Yosemite Crack, plugging gear in the crack to the right. 2 bolt top anchor with chains. Small pro.

Trad 15m
5.11+ Yosemite Crack

20ft of thin, painful crack climbing above the bolt. Avoid stemming for the full grade. 2 bolt top anchor with chains. Difficult to top rope. Small pro.

Mixed trad 15m, 1
5.9 Paul's Crack

Crack right of Kooch Master. Pro to 3". No top anchors.

Trad
5.6 Chimney

Pro to 12". Usually top-roped.

Trad
5.6 Axe Wound

Pro to 3.5".

Trad
Pilot Rock
Class 3 Mountaineer's Route Trad
5.8 Southwest Arête

FFA: Unknown

Trad
5.10d Roundabout

All belays bolted.

  1. 100' (5.10a) 5 bolts. Pro to 1".

  2. 150' (5.10d) 5 bolts. Small cams.

  3. 65' (5.7) 3 bolts.

FFA: Joe Chaves & Pat Uhtoff

Mixed trad 100m, 3, 13
5.8 Crash Landing

Bolted belays, but P1 belay should be moved from the detached column.

  1. 100' (5.8) 6 bolts. Pro to 1.5".

  2. 160' (5.6) 4 bolts. Pro to 3".

FFA: Chuck Porter

Mixed trad 11m, 2, 10
5.11a Magic Blocks

Bolted belays.

  1. 100' (5.10b) 4 bolts. Pro to 2".

  2. 60' (5.11a) 2 bolts. Pro to 1".

  3. 100' (5.10a) 3 bolts. Pro to 1".

FFA: Joe Chaves & Chuck Porter, 1998

Mixed trad 79m, 3, 9
5.10b Step Up

Bolted belays.

  1. 100' (5.9) Pro to 4".

  2. 70' (5.10b) 8 bolts.

  3. 90' (5.7) 4 bolts. Pro to 1".

FFA: Chuck Porter

Mixed trad 79m, 3, 12
5.6 Pilot's License

FFA: Unknown

Trad 2
Rattlesnake Aurora Buttress
5.10b/c Thumper

FA: Bill NewComb

FA: Bill NewComb

Trad
5.8 Uppyer Crack Trad

Showing all 39 routes.

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