Excellent orange face with lots of tiny crimpers and several FHs. Bring wallnuts to size 7 to supplement the existing FHs. More bolts may be added later.
A sustained face, neglected for several months after bolting.
Start: The 4m direct start to the ledge has been done but awaits a bolt. In the meantime, start 4m further left beneath 'The Thin Red Line', where a good wire protects the moves to the ledge.
Move 4m R on ledge, then climb the face 3m L of the thin crack (Edge Burner), past 3FH, med-large wires and a #1.75Fr. The high DRB anchor can be accessed from above.
FA:Will Monks, Malcolm Matheson, Gareth Llewelin & Neil Monteith, 2005
Start: Up 'Out of Control' to 4th FH. Ooze 3m left to horn. Directly up lovely crack and over roof on trad gear. Continue up to Double RB lower off on high ledge. First ascent was a ground up onsight.
Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.
Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.
Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).
Big time cave climbing up right side of the orange wave.
Scramble in from the left side onto belay ledge 15m from the ground. Belay off single FH.
Head up and right easily for 8m to small ledge and UB. Take a breath and start climbing up and out past eight bolts in incredible positions to finish in small cave. Hard moves are at third and sixth bolts. Good foot jams, knee bars and leg slots can be found for recovery all the way up. Use a 60m rope for lower-off and tie a knot in the end!
