Routes as trad in Jebel M'zeygeh

Start in the same spot as Hanging Gardens of Zagorchev, about 100 feet down and left of "Runner Up". Climb up and left to gain the left-hand of two nice looking varnished corners. Stem up this corner to easier ground and an anchor (27m). Photo.

To the left of the sport routes is a huge, right-facing corner that forms the left margin of the face (Runner Up). Down and left about 100 feet from this huge corner are two, short, nice looking varnished corners. This route climbs the right-hand corner. Climb the right corner, which has a prominent wide crack on the right side. This corner had partially been climbed previously by local Bedouin guide Omar, who lowered off a cam because there was no anchor. The FRA party continued to the top of the corner and installed an anchor. Rappel with one rope from a fixed anchor (drilled baby angle and thread).

Follows a big corner on the left, bolted stations but trad on the route, consistent climbing with a couple of fun crux problems on pitch 3. Possible to walk off and descend along the ridgeline at climbers right (45 mins) but not worth it and a bit hairy. Abseil descent recommended, but you will need two ropes or an 80m!

• P1 5a/5b ~30m; climb either the corner or the face, has some hollow sounding flakes. Sustained and tense for a warm up. Bolted belay inside the corner.
• P2 5a ~35/40m; Climb out the corner and head up the face bridging every now and then, reaching a big ledge with a bolt and piton.
• P3 5c+/6a ~35/40m; Starting with a tricky chimney then slab up to the crux. The crux involves a twin cracked chimney above a ledge, which can be reasonably protected (it may have lost some good holds which is why the book grades at 5-). Then ramp up to the final problem a corner hand crack with hollow flakes on the left wall. A big thread at the top.

The name story: When the first recorded ascent by Britich/French climbers in 1987 they found slings in place, that's why they called it Runner-up.