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Routes as sport in Good And Evil Area

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Showing all 17 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
17 Palaver

10m right of 'Excuse Me While I Kiss The Sky' is a big right facing corner/chimney. Climb up tree roots into chimney.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Feb 2017

Sport 9
20 Hyde

Start about 3m right of 'Palaver'.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Mar 2017

Sport 12
19 Jeckyll

Just left of 'I.M.O. Julius'. Route name on first bolt.

FA: Don Poe & Clive Curson, Mar 2017

Sport 12
15 I.M.O. Julius

Starts up a creeper fig tree and into the chimney.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Sport 9
17 Darth

Not such a pretty face when viewed through the fig tree. But the upper section has great climbing. Negotiate the blocky little corner 2m right of 'I.M.O. Julius' thru the fig tree to access this narrow face between 2 chimney lines. Take care with some of the blocks down low.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Mar 2017

Sport 11
17 Just Another Pretty Face

Start up 'Brutus' for 5 U-bolts, stepping left onto 'Darth' face just above the fig tree, just below the crux sequence. These are very sweet moves, lay-backing right and left.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Mar 2017

Sport 11
15 Brutus

Climb the chimney, as for 'Cesar', but stay outside the cleft, stemming left onto 'Just Another Pretty Face' to avoid moving into the bowels of the earth, where the climb steepens. Up to anchors just left of the cleft.

FA: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Mar 2017

Sport 11
16 Ceaser

Climb the fun chimney left of 'Woodchoppers and Waterbearers' and discover the cave system. Protected by 4 U-bolts on 'Brutus', then 3 U-bolts inside the chimney. Use anchors above and left of the cleft.

FFA: Alard Hüfner, 2003

Set: Clive Curson & Don Poe, Mar 2017

Sport 17m, 11
22 Woodchoppers and Waterbearers

Climb up the right arête. Avoid using opposite side of chimney. Then move right onto the face after the small roof.

Set: Chris Rudolph

FA: Rory Lowther, 2003

Sport 10
15 ??

About 10m R of 'Aapstreke' is a bolt line up a corner right of a steep gully.

Sport 8
16 Sonny Boy

Overbolted? Could be your 1st 16. Pull onto the face 1m right of TOL. Continue up the slab, 1st slightly left, then up. The holds become a bit thin just before the anchor.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 14
17 Trident

Use the 1st pitch of 'Gungadin' up to the belay ledge. Follow the P-bolts up the middle of the face.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 11
19 Gungadin
1 18
2 19
  1. [18] XXm
    This ledge can be used to climb all pitches above – 2 extra bolts lead leftward back to 'Sonny Boy'. The ledge can be accessed more easily at ~ grade 11 by starting up 'Sonny Boy' then heading right after the 4th bolt – to practice 2 pitch climbing. [7D]
  2. [19] XXm
    From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D]

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 2, 23
19 GUNGADIN (PITCH 2)

20? From the belay, go diagonally right up the slab. This steepens below a corner, which is followed up to the anchors. The 2 pitches can easily be done as one [16D].

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 11
20 Walking on Sunshine

Starting at a multi-stemmed tree, climb the curved crack to an aloe. Step left onto the ledge with a block, climb the face following the corner for 15m. Rail out left on face up to an ab tree. Take plenty small gear.

FA: Mark Seuring & Ulrike Kiefer, 2003

Sport 11
19 Shine On

Start up 'Walking on Sunshine' curving crack at the multi-stemmed tree for 4m, then right through the rooflet, and straight up to anchors.

FA: Clive Curson, Oct 2017

Sport 11
22 PROJECT

3m right of the multi-stemmed tree (1-2m left of 'Nitro's Tick Fever'), start up the corner. A thin section gains the easier head wall

SportProject 10

Showing all 17 routes.

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