Showing all 25 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Toitimen ima Mattan Heki /十一面岩末端壁 | |||||
5.10d | Washi
Translates as "Eagle" Multi Pitch Climb | 3, 3 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Haru Lara (2P)
Multi Pitch Climb | 30m, 2 | |||
5.11a | ★★ Astro Dome
Short and steep double crack system. Dry in light rain. | 20m, 2 | |||
5.12b | Airway 2
| 2 | |||
5.12a | Airway
| 2 | |||
5.11c | ★ Twilight
| ||||
5.11a | ★★ Pegasus
Multi Pitch Climb | 2 | |||
5.10d | Fuyu ga Kuru Mae ni
Translates as "Before winter comes" | ||||
5.11b | Nagai o Wakare
Translates as "Long farewell" | ||||
5.9 | Fūrin
Translates as "Wind chime" | 6 | |||
5.10a | Wild Country
| 2 | |||
5.10d | ★★ T & T
| ||||
5.10a | ★★ Chouwa No Gensou
Multi Pitch Climb Translates as "Illusion of harmony" | 5 | |||
5.9 | Girls
| ||||
5.11b | Travel chance
| ||||
5.12c | Nakittsura
なきっつら | ||||
Left Wall | |||||
5.10a | ★★★ Mountain Smile
1
5.8
30m
2
5.8
40m
3
5.10a
40m
4
5.6
10m
5
5.8
15m
(Feel free to add the Japanese name if you know it. I am doing all this without consulting the guidebook). Start at a corner 20m left of the left edge of the cave.
Alternatively, from the end of the 3rd pitch you could probably do the last pitch of the other 10a multi, which is the offwidth corner slightly to the left. The descent rap route starts from the end of this (alternate) pitch, so if you did the original finish you need to scramble left (facing in) on the rock bands at the top to find it. Gear: double rack + #4 and #5. | 140m, 5 | |||
Hidari Ganpeki | |||||
5.10d | ★ Yama Zoku Tasogare
| 5, 3 | |||
★★★ Berujuēru
One of Japan's iconic multi-pitch free climbing routes. This is a must do route. The 1st, 4th and 5th pitches are the gems of the route. The hardest pitch is the first pitch which starts with a bouldery arete move into the corner under the overhang. Then moving right and around the overhang and onto the 5.11b slab, which will test even the best slab climbing specialists. The chimney in pitch 6 is graded 5.7, however this is not a true indication of the difficulty and should be re-graded as 5.9+~5.10. | 250m, 9, 6 | ||||
Deep Wall /奥壁 | |||||
5.9 | Outsider
The first route to this particular summit. Starts at the obvious chimney on the sandy terrace and follows the line of least resistance. Has some bushy/scrambling pitches before merging with Joyful Moment during the last pitch. To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully. | ||||
5.9 | ★★ Joyful Moment
1
5.9
20m
2
5.1
15m
3
5.9
35m
4
5.8
15m
5
5.7
15m
Start around 30m right from Outsider, at obviously worn left-leading flake/crack.
Double rack + #4 and #5 helpful. To descend, scramble roughly west from the summit down boulders. At some point, can turn around and go under the last boulder you climbed down, making a small cave that leads back towards the descent gully. | 100m, 5 | |||
Ko Yasuri Iwa | |||||
5.12a | Jinsei Gekijō
Translates as "Life theater" | 45m, 2, 10 | |||
5.10c | Takoya Dōme
Translates as "Grilled octopus alliance" | 35m | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Souten Hanlo
| 75m, 3, 10 | |||
5.7 | Hana-uta Shōkei
| 30m |
Showing all 25 routes.