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Routes as trad in The Nursery

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Showing all 11 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
13 Cyclone Racheal

Starts impressively, but then fizzles out. Right of the chimney is a white wall with a thin crack up the middle. Start below this, then break through the overhang, and so on to glory.

FA: FRA: Steve Byer, Chris Hart, Steve Simmons & Mike Ashton, 1997

Trad 22m
9 Fairweather Sailor

Is there no end to these mega-classics? The broken crack and corner system up the LHS of the black wall. Left across the short wall at the clean corner, then stay right of the arête to the top.

FA: Mike Ashton, Jenny Ashton & Chris Hart, 1997

Trad 21m
8 Gentle Breeze

Obvious laid back black wall with numerous horizontal breaks. Climb straight up just about anywhere, following lines of good holds and mega pro (small SLCDs). A “sustained grade 8”, good for beginners.

FA: Alan Caldwell & John Fattore

Trad 20m
13 Weather Vain

For lovers of contrivance… Variant linkup route in the nursery combining 3 existing routes. Start up Cyclone Rachel & through the small rooflet, move across and up the Gentle Breeze slab. Finish up Zephyr. Belay of top block

FA: Stuart Anderson & Melanie Morrow, 2004

Trad 25m
6 Storm in a Teacup

The obvious large right slanting crack system right of Gentle Breeze. Up the crack, stepping left below the roof to belay.

FA: Mike Ashton, Jenny Ashton & Chris Hart, 1997

Trad 20m
9 Gone With The Wind

Start at the left slanting crack 3m right of Storm in a Teacup. Follow the crack towards Storm in a Teacup, but take the face and short flake immediately right of the deep V crack when the two lines merge. Belay as for Storm in a Teacup.

FA: Mike Ashton, Jenny Ashton & Paul Francis, 1997

Trad 18m
10 Zephyr

Start on the rib immediately right of Gone with the Wind. Follow the vague line up and right towards the large fig tree. Up the precarious blocks above staying left of the arête. Belay on top - down climb into the gully to find suitable anchors, then scramble back up.

FA: Paul Francis, Jenny Ashton & Mike Ashton, 1997

Trad 21m
10 Low Pressure System

Up right of Zephyr is a deep crack with a small roof about 2.5m above the ground. Bridge delicately past the roof, then follow the crack more easily to the large fig tree. Good cam placements.

FA: Steve Beyer, Chris Hart & Mike Ashton, 1997

Trad 15m
9 Windsome, Loosesome

The crack immediately right of Low Pressure System, passing right of the tree

FA: Chris Hart & Steve Beyer, 1997

Trad 15m
9 Cool Change

I wish! It’s the arête a couple of metres right of Windsome, Loosesome, but starting at ground level (about 5m lower). Up the indistinct line just right of the rib, then step left and up the front of the last bit.

FA: Paul Francis & Mike Ashton, 1997

Trad 17m
10 Turbulent Waters

Start around the RHS of the last pillar right of the Nursery, a few metres right of Cool Change and just left of the walk down. Wander up to summit

FA: Chris Hart & Steve Beyer, 1997

Trad 18m

Showing all 11 routes.

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