On the east face about 200 m south from the arch. The climb starts at a set of leftwards leading fingers.
It is possible to climb slightly different variations all over this slab. Online and guide book topos all show slightly different ways especially around the large roof. Take care with route finding at the large roof as you could end up on soft rock or harder difficulty. The number of pitches will also be variable up to 9? There is also an extension to the true summit (not described here).
Time: Between 4-8 hours to reach the boulder field.
Gear: Cams up to big blue (camelot 3), no hexes.
Easy variant
.
Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
(easy variant) walk up and to the right heading under a small wall f3.
(easy variant) up a left wall to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f4.
traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
slabs to the top, boulder field f4.
Direct variant
.
Climb the fingers to a good ledge, f4.
Up a crack in the middle of the slab, then over a more vertical section f4.
(Direct variant) Head direct to reach the right side of the big roof, find a white thread around a hollow sounding flake, f5.
traverse left to a gap in the roof, slightly over hanging. Can be protected with a middle sized nut and a tiny thread (using a stiff aramid sling) gain the roof, go straight and belay in a corner crack, f5c.
exposed domes and slabs to a ledge with a piton and a cairn, f5.
slabs to the top, boulder field f4.
Descent:
.
Via the burdah bridge route (1-2 hours), there are cairns, trending towards the left of the bridge. Just before the bridge there is an exposed traverse (f3). Apparently there is also an abseil down onto the bridge, to avoid the traverse (un verified).
FA:m shaw, T Howard, D Taylor, W Colonna & A Baker, 1985
