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Routes as trad in Gubben

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Showing all 6 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
6 Ballesurr

Climb up to the ledge below the left extent of the wall, about 15m left of Drømmelinja. Follow the left trending crack to reach a ledge on top of a large exposed block. Fixed gear for belay and escape.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Andrea Tverå, 9 Jul 2016

Trad 30m
8- Drømmelinja
1 7- 35m
2 8- 25m

Starts at the base up the wall about 10m L of the bottom of the roped access towards Gamla.

  1. Follow the incipient crack to the left of the saging tree and then up the left side of the huge flake to a small ledge and natural anchor.

  2. Straight up the crack and open corner, then step left to meet the splitter. Up the meandering crack and past a FH to the top of the flake and DBB (horrible Petzl Cheville bolts), 5m below the summit. The extension to the top is presumably undone.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1988

Mixed trad 60m, 2, 3
7+ Superrisset

It doesn't come much better than this. Starts up the left of the twin cracks on the long ledge opposite Den Sorte Kamin and the quality never ceases all the way to the top.

FFA: Øyvind Moss, 1984

Trad 40m
6- Lucy Loo

Start at the top of the fixed rope on the approach to Den Sorte Kamin. Bridging start into handcrack that leads to Superrisset ledge. Some loose rocks yet to be removed.

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury & Andrea Tverå, 20 Jun 2015

Trad 20m
7- Hjørnestein

Directly opposite Babyface. Step across the void to gain large corner/ramp. Follow the ramp with small but secure wires and continue up the ever steepening weakness. Tree belay.

FA: Christopher Glastonbury & Torstein Øygarden, 27 May 2015

FFA: Christopher Glastonbury, 20 Jun 2015

Trad 25m
5 Overraskelsen

Around the backside of Gubben. Navigate your way through the blocks past Hjørnestein. Follows the one and only off-width to the top. Sparsely protected at the beginning without off-width sized cams.

Trad 20m

Showing all 6 routes.

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