Ascensiones de Megadans como varios tipos de ascensiones registradas

Two tries, trying to get back to old high point. Things felt good, but high point didn't come with the injury. Crux starting to feel doable again, but rusty on the section right after it

Put in the QDs first go. Second go I had to grab pretty much all of them Not like Sunday. But they need to be extended even more, and I need to make sure to tell belayers to give slack fast. I found new beta in the crux, to grab the pinch with the left hand to establish body higher up before going left. Felt good. It isn't clear what to do starting the part right before the crux, when you work up to the shouldery move. Still nervous about clipping bolt 2, and the one right before the slab section - what to grab with left hand?

Hang dogged the whole route WITHOUT a panic draw!!! First time!!! Had first 2 pre-clipped, grabbed draw 8 and pulled on it, but no others. Fingers were raw... Remember to clip the 5th from the left hand. Use the low gaston with right hand. match in crack to shake out. Use the sloper for balance before going for the 2 finger undercling. After the jug of the crux, right foot on tick, left foot on slopey spot above and right of QD. Then bring right foot to tiny hold after you establish on upper gaston. Check on left side because as you reach up there are possible intermediates before the crimp jug. This next tiny bit is unclear before you get to a bit better feet and holds. Extend draws by one LONGGGG link: 4, 5, maybe 6 (or short link), 8 (definitely). Did not do all moves on this attempt, pulled through bits of them a little to focus on clipping (e.g. crux and 8th draw especially). Climbing partner said I am ready to actually lead it!!!

Went up on the LOOSE end of the rope on top rope. Really tried to understand where to clip the 2nd draw from and the moves before and after the crux. The crux was NOT going as well (well no possibility of rope tension) and took a LOT of tries to get the way I had other days. The moves right after the crux did not feel as solid, either. just harder to launch for the gaston.

First 7c hang dog of a whole route! Used my panic draw to accomplish this though so not entirely... But no clip stick! First 2 pre-clipped. Struggled a lot clipping while doing moves from 3 to 4, and the moves on the crimps from 4 to 5 we're not going well. Need better feet. Feel like my right hand top finger joints invert on the sidepull crimp. Other beta would be better. Should maybe extend clip 5 even more. Crux move went in segments but not perfectly. Harder to clip 6 & 7 then I thought it would be, esp 7, the jugs felt bad - my skin already worn through?? Had to use panic draw again on 8 but landed the move using the 2 finger crimp on left and a sorta left heel to get the right sidepull. Tried that Monday and it didn't go... Feels reachy still and clip position as well as feet aren't clear. Then led the next runout slab but to the last bolt for the first time without a clip stick. Grabbed the draw in the end. Not sure the crystally pinch I'm trying to clip from is ideal. But I made it to the anchors

Stick clipped up to place draws. Managed to put QDs in 3&4 just like Monday. But the moves were harder before the crux. Managed crux move 5,th go but not linked to the part before it

Stick clipped up. Crux didn't go. Managed to put QD in on 3rd and 4th bolts both this time (without stick clip)

really pulled to the crux as I was quite sore by this point, tried quite hard to get there, and it was getting dark. Stick clipped the remaining 2 draws and anchor in the dark. The part right after the crux is very unclear. Next time I need to work on where to clip from and really figure out feet and hands for after the crux.

Plan was to go bolt to bolt. The first section felt great, then got to the portion where I would go up the crack to clip the second - and that made no sense how to clip. Managed to clip the 3rd. Then felt unbalanced in the move above the 3rd to think about how to clip bolt 4... So I used the panic draw on this and the next 3 bolts through the crux. Friction for feet felt slippery and bad, making the crux too tricky for me today. Then was stuck above the crux where the crimps start and could not use the panic draw to go bolt to bolt, and retreated

I think I understand a little bit more of it. Especially the first 2 bolts and the part before the crux. But the crux didn't feel as good as this weekend. The top was ok. Last bolt to anchor is wonderful. Crimps immediately after crux are hard to read

Second time trying it, but didn't top rope above the crux. The start I am doing very inefficiently and making harder than it needs to be. the crux goes with the little 2 finger crimp and a dynamic move, but not the part before it which feels like the crimps above the hard part of Tabu. Someday soon will do the part above the crux