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Glenbrook Gorge

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Descripción

Old school adventurous mostly-trad climbing on rock of varying quality. A few classics (Annelid Crack (Kippax Crack) in particular) combined with a quiet, majestic location and located 45min closer to Sydney than the main Blueys crags make this worth a look.

Useful Info: The lower section of the cliffline to the left and right of the first pitch of 'Annelid Crack' is the lower cliffline. Immediately right of the crack is I'd Rather be Cable Skiiing (16), 'New Sensations' (16) and 'Powder Finger' (21), continuing past many climbs to Tungston Tips (22) at the end of this wall. Immediately left of the Annelid Crack is 'Airstrike' (21), 'Flying Pickets' (21) and Tas (21).

Follow the lower cliffline downstream (east) past several more climbs and you will find 'Lady Killer' (21) marked in a small cave, with 'Three Cans Later' (16) and 'Mephisto' (22) above it on a small ledge. Continuing east you'll find a gully which leads up to the middle-section of the 'Main Wall'. Heading straight up the gully brings you to a cave cut from orange rock, with 'Kevin's Wall' (12), 'Kevin's Corner' (14/16), and 'Good Old Days' (21) immediately to the left of it.

Heading upstream (west) through the cave brings you to 'Fleet Street' (19), the clearly marked 'Dispute Chimney' (14), and the overhung 'Into the Void' (22). Continuing west through the next cave brings you to the end of this ledge, with the second pitch of 'Annelid Crack' (11) to your left, and the mixed crack climbing of 'Purple Maze' (15) just after the end of the ledge. At this point now you are also almost directly beneath Tunnel View 'Lookout'.

Heading back downstream to where you came up the 'Gully' and beyond, you will pass by 'Puddin Puller' (18) in an obvious square-corner, with 'Paradise' (17), 'Jerks in Heaven' (19) and 'East of Eden' (19) next to it. At this point the elevated section ends, and you can follow another path back down to the creek.

Continuing east along the edge of the creek you arive at the imposing 'South-Eastern Wall', with the roof-crack 'Wokker's Roof' (24) about 50 metres above. The climbing wall ends another hundred metres downstream, almost directly opposite where the train emerges from the tunnel on the clifftops opposite you.

© (PThomson)

Restricciones heredado de Lower Blue Mountains

Be sensible.

Acceso

Heading west from Sydney along the Great Western 'Highway', turn left onto Ross Street in Glenbrook. Follow it around through the main street of Glenbrook, then turn right onto Euroka Rd, and then left onto Bruce Rd. Follow Bruce Rd until you arrive at the entrance to Glenbrook National Park.

Park up near the old Information Center (you don't need to pay for park entry if you park here), and follow the trail from the South-Eastern corner of the carpark, marked as leading to 'Glenbrook Gorge'.

Follow the track downwards for about 5 minutes until you reach the creek. Follow the creek east for a few minutes (the 'North-Western Wall' climbing area is up the hill to your left, here) until you find a safe place to cross to the southern side. After crossing continue east along the river for another five minutes and you should see 'Annelid Crack' (sometimes called Kippax crack) on the wall to your right.

© (PThomson)

Ética heredado de Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Etiquetas

Algunos contenidos se han facilitado bajo la licencia de: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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Selected Guidebooks more Ocultar

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Autor(es): Simon Carter

Fecha: 2019

número ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Alojamientos cercanos more Ocultar

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