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The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs immediately right of 'Red Corner', to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.

1. [19] 18m

   The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on 'Red Corner' also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on 'Red Corner'.)

2. 25m 22 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of 'Simian Street'. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.

A line consisting of beautiful moves until the usual Egyptian easy finish. Start up the first bolt of DIY/Ulf Carlsson Memorial Climb, and instead of going right, go straight up, to the small pockets above, up towards the larger/pocket/jug before moving to the crack on the left and exiting the hard climbing.

Gear is thin and thoughtful but there throughout the climb if you look for it. first ascent was headpointed.

Start as for Hokkaido to the ledge and continue up the short, steep wall above, passing two bolts.

To the left of KALAHARI and about 20m above the river is a ledge with a big block. Directly above this is a short, overhanging wall with a flaring crack. Scramble up to the ledge. Boulder out the steep wall and crack and continue up the easy slab to the tree. Rap off. Fun moves but very short.

A direct, varied line crossing Satisfaction Guaranteed. The first pitch is a tad committing Start ~6m left of Satisfaction.

1. 23 (18m) Climb a thin, intermittent crack up a brown streak within grey rock, to arrive at a ledge between two boulders. Place high gear, then use the largest boulder on the left to gain good holds. Move right and up the brown recess, then up and right past two rails to stance on the ledge (shared with Satisfaction). This is a demanding pitch and requires small cams.

2. 21 (30m) Head up and left to the clean arete. Climb the right side of the arete (also using a vague crack ~1.5m to the right). Continue straight up to the ledge and stance below the corner (shared with Satisfaction).

3. 22 (30m) Climb up the corner, then up the face and aim for the pocketed roof above. Pull through the left break using pockets to gain a tube-like feature. Continue easily to the ledge.

4. 18 (40m) Climb the steep juggy face above. The line goes between the staggered roofs on the left and the right. At the next ledge head straight up to the top.

Start in the 'Honeymoon' cave on the right. Climb up to the rail/ slab. Rail left and then up to top out.

A direct start to P1 (using the roof crack) brings the grade up to 25 (FA: C. Martinengo, 2007)

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

Climb the unprotected face between Death of Disco and Sweet Fanny Adams for 5 meters on small edges, before getting to a good horizontal rail and pocket which can take gear. Powerful moves left and up across a flake to get established at a broken crack system, and then up the face on easy holds.

What a little gem! Pull onto the orange face from the boulder and tend slightly right up the steep wall to the narrow overhang. Pull directly through and up a series of flakes to a handrail to the left of a small roof. Crank onto, and across the roof on good holds in the grey rock, and then tend slightly left to a small ledge. Straight to top.

This is the hardest route at the crag. Still no free ascent. Climbers have done this via TR or not at all.

1. 20m 22 Start as for 'Iconoclast' . Climb to the cubby hole where two parallel cracks run diagonally up left to the top. Climb these.

Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of 'Monkey Music' and 'Pumping Gibbon'. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.

1. [22] 30m Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.

Note:

The protection on this pitch is sparse and unreliable.

Climbs the wall to the left of Warchild, starting under the roof by a tree. Pull through past a peg and up to a rail. Continue straight to the top.

1. [22] 40m Climb 40m of capey climbing on excellent rock.

“Mad Dog" is a direct variation of the 'African Lunch' 2nd pitch.

The aesthetic arete visible on the right as you walk up the gulley toward the Knobless Robot. Sketchy gear in places, possibly some loose rock.

Start in the narrow section of the path in front of a large boulder. Pull up to a rail and traverse right almost into a recess on the right side of the feature. Pull up and left on steep grey rock to reach the slabby right side of the arete. Step left and up the arete to the bulge. Step left to gain good holds, up ~2m then step back right and up to the top. Tat rap point.

The route runs up the middle of the North-West face, breaking through the red overhangs in the centre. The initial 150m takes the the ramp to the left of that used by North by North-West, under the conspicuous triangular roof (but using the right-hand edge of the ramp). The broad pillar ahead is climbed up its left-hand side (jamming cracks), and crossed to the right on top. Thereafter, the excellent middle section of the wall is climbed in a line trending slightly to the right, through the only roof in this part. (North by North-West is crossed to the right of the A1 traverse, pitch 11. This leads straight up to the huge red overhangs, which are negotiated via the break seen from the valley, running diagonally through from right to left. Grey rock is reached, which leads with difficulty on to a steep wall to the left of the rock fall scar.

Start: under the enormous triangular roof, behind a tree where the Recess route goes up leftwards. Climb and scramble 15m diagonally to the right to ledges on the right-hand ramp.

1. [16] 35m

   Climb the right-hand side of the ramp to a tree.

2. [17] 40m

   Above the tree, swing to the right (F3) onto a nose, then continue up the right-hand side of the ramp.

3. [18] 40m

   Climb up to a recess tot he right of of a small blocky roof, then layback strenuously through the gap. Continue up the ramp.

4. [17] 30m

   Continue up clean rock to a big ledge Traverse 15m right to the left-hand side of a broad pillar.

5. [20] 35m

   Climb the jamming cracks strenuously to the top of the pillar From the right-hand side of the pillar, climb to a ledge (E3), then traverse 15m to the right to a stance below a jagged jamming crack. The route now heads for the crack system leading slightly to the right towards the triangular roof (the only roof on this part of the wall).

6. [21] 40m

   Ignore the jagged crack, climb the vertical wall on the left. Move to the right on flakes after 4m, then climb up a good thin crack for 10m (peg runner left in), until a thin traverse to the right leads to a break up on good holds trending diagonally to the right. Stance 10m up the break.

7. [18] 30m

   Continue up the break, which turns into a semi-chimney, and belay on the ledge to the right (left is the A1 traverse of N by N-W).

8. [22] 35m

   Take off up blocky rock rock from the right-hand side of the ledge, then climb the crack leading to the right-hand side of the red roof (bong left in place). Climb the flared crack in the block in the roof (3 nuts), up to a rail under the final roof, where a hanging stance can be made on the right to avoid rope drag.

9. [18] 15m

   Climb the small ledge on the right and up on tiny holds to a roof. Move left (tricky) and climb a crack to a ledge. Belay on the right.

10. [18] 35m

    Traverse to the right, past a block, the ascend the wall round the corner on square holds, with occasional runners, ending in a difficult mantelshelf move onto a ledge.

11. [18] 35m

    Above is a large coffin-overhang below all the other overhangs. Climb straight up to the left-hand edge of the overhang, up the crack leading past on the left, until a step to the right leads onto the top of the overhang. Climb up to a rail under smaller roofs, then traverse to the left for 10m (delicate) to a stance amongst blocks.

12. [19] 40m

    Traverse 15m to the left along rails, until flakes lead to a recess and up to a roof (good runner). Hand traverse to the left to a narrow ledge below a grey face. Directly below, through the red overhangs is the Bong pitch of N by N-W.

13. [21] 30m

    Climb the compact grey face from the left-hand edge of the grey face, with occasional good runners. Stance slightly to the right of the previous stance.

14. [18] 15m

    Follow a handrail round a corner to the right to a hidden crack leading to a roof. Traverse to the right along another rail to the skyline Move 20m to the right to a steep grey face to the left of the old rockfall scar.

15. [17] 40m

    Climb diagonally to the right to reach rails leading back to the left across the grey face, then climb steep blocky rock to a chimney.

16. [12] 20m

    Climb the chimney and traverse to the left under a roof to a ledge. The final ledge is one rope length higher. Two finishes are possible.

17. [18] 45m

    a) 45m: Traverse 15m to the left to a stance and the corner of the wall. Round the corner, pass a huge flake, the continue diagonally to the left, climbing steeply to a traverse across an exposed grey face. Make difficult moves off a rounded ledge and up diagonally to the left on steep rock to the final ledge (reached directly below an enormous rectangular roof on the right-hand side of the tower above.

Traverse to the right for two rope lengths into the grassy bay above the North-West face. b) 45m (16): traverse to the right under the roof on pitch 16 and ascend a pleasant grey face to the walk off ledge. Finish to the right in the grassy bay.

"The climb should only be attempted by a leader capable of mastering the most difficult of present day (1977) G routes." "It is advisable for any party attempting this route to be familiar with the technique of prussiking.

P1: Climb the crack to a bolted stance on the left. P2: Climb up past 2 bolts to the top.

Start location as for HALFMOON.

1. 40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).

2. 40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).

3. 40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.

4. 40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.

5. 40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.

6. 50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.

7. 45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.

8. 40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the chimney to a ledge.

9. 60m Roped scrambling to the top.

Start about 2m left of 'Solitaire'. Climb a blunt arête to a ledge. Follow the thin black water streak with some committing moves above the ledge. About halfway up the streak, you need to make a move left and up for 1m to a thin crack on a flake, before moving right again. At the next ledge move slightly right to a vague corner and then easily to the top.

Situated 8m upstream of the first wade pool encountered downstream from the Cedarberg-Tonquani junction. Two thin crack lines a few feet apart run up the centre of a steep smooth slab, at the base of which two large trees are growing.

1. 10m 22 Start next to the upstream tree and climb directly up the slab, following the left crack line.

Note:

The protection is thin.

Directly below 'Hawk's Eye', the line can be plainly seen. Climb 'Hawk's Eye' as far as the belay below the 13 pitch.

1. [22] 12m

   Climb up right to a tree then hand-traverse left to lip of the roof. Quickly pull through the roof until one can stand in a relatively comfortable position on the wall between the two overhangs. Traverse right and pull into a recess, above which a small but good hanging belay can be made.

2. 25m 19 Step out right and up into the corner. Climb this and finish as for 'Hawk's Eye' direct.

Climb the black streak and grey overhanging wall above it, to the right of 'Human Highway'.

Start five metres left of Jean. This route sports a rather large lead-out, and has sent almost every local climber on such a huge whipper that they should probably have packed sandwiches for the trip! Climb a shallow recess to a rail on the left of a bush (pegs). Continue straight to the top.

Samson opened this variation inadvertently when he went off route. He started with a rope and a partner but had to untie when his belayer reached the end of the rope. With no anchor in sight and no chance of downclimbing, Samson forged ahead into the unknown and into the realm of legend.

1. Shared with Sunset Warrior.

2. NOT PROTECTED. Climb the groove above, but instead of traversing left continue straight up the groove and then face to the crux at around 25m. Keep going until you run out of rope (untie from the rope) and solo up to the top. Belayer has to rap back down.

Start from the ledge, left and behind the bushes on the left side of the crag, and the line heads diagonally right until the head wall, where it goes straight up to the tree.

Climb the hand crack through the small roof. Continue up to a bolted stance.

P2:(22/23)Trad. FFA: G.Bird & J.Wakeling 2019. Second pitch continues straight up to the top. No anchors at the top.

A varied pitch left of 'Green Eggs and Ham' on the right-hand side of the 'Solitaire Wall'.

Start at the corner crack on the right of the 'Solitaire' face. Climb up about 8m to a slightly bulging face. Some tricky moves to a ledge (avoid the enormous, balanced, cigar-shaped rock). Climb the left side of the vague arête to an overlap. Traverse left and up and then pull through the right side of the next roof to the juggy face above. Straight to top.

Situated past some wading pools about 60m downstream of 'The Hourglass', just before a couple of tree trunks spanning the kloof over a wade pool. Easily recognisable as a smooth face on the right. The climb follows the left fault line on the face.

1. 35m 23 Scramble to the base of the undercut face. Climb to in-situ micro and then climb delicately to obvious jugs following the hairline cracks (23) or step out right, up and left (21). Follow the left hand crack to the bolt and then awkwardly up (22) to jug. Continue strenuously up superb crack with a desperate exit to the right. From here easy climbing leads to a ledge. Scramble out to the right.

No route description available.

This is the obvious natural line which ascends the centre of the buttress. [21] for the first 15' only. Ascend the thin righiwards sloping crackline past two bolts to a groove. Climb this awkwardly and make a difficult step left onto a ledge. Move up short bulging wall to tree stump. and follow cracks above leftwards to another bulging wall which is climbed. Traverse left around corner then up rightwards to top.

Historic route number: 6

This route supersedes Mithril, opened in 1980 by Adrian Jardin and Steve Bradshaw. Start two metres right of Return to Fantasy.

Climb up the face to a bulge. Climb through this and onto the slab below the roof. Move right to the obvious break in the roof. Climb straight up to a ledge and finish up the crack.

1. [21] 18m

2. [21] 10m

3. [23] 12m

Mega classic. Originally opened as an aid route (Easy Rider). Subsequently freed by AdK.

Climb the thin corner crack to a compulsory mantle onto the slope, and finish up an easy off-width that leads to the top of the slab.

Gear: Small nuts and cams for the crack and mid-sized cams for the belay.

Located on the true right of the gully below the large chock stone about 10m right of 'Sidewinder-Direct' .

1. 30m 22 Climb the obvious cracks up the wall to the break. Traverse left to the top of the first pitch of 'Sidewinder-Direct' and 'The Day Of The Smells'.

Excellent line that gets progressively more challenging. Start off a Ladies Tee towards the right corner of the crag: beneath an undercling at the bottom of a small left facing corner. Basically the line takes the big open book all the way to the top, however we strongly recommend stepping left about 5m up over the undercut to take the face above. Then reunite with the open book to the top. The line at the top avoids the feature taken by SO.

Aesthetic face climbing. A slightly committing start onto the face leads to the intermittent vertical crack in the middle of the wall. Follow the crack and where it peters out continue straight up the orange rock (crux) to a wide rail. Move slightly right and up the grey rock to finish.

P1: 35m (17). Start up the corner system 5m to the right of Vulture Culture. Climb up to a ledge and continue straight up the crack system to where it is topped by a small roof. Move 1m left to a Hanging stance.

P2: 30m (23). Move up into a corner, step right above the roof and then move back left into a crack . Follow this up to a stance below the prominent chimney/slot.

P3. 30m (18). Climb up the chimney/slot. At the top, move 2m right, pull through the overlap into a crack and follow this to stance at a ledge.

P4. 30m (17). Move 5m left. Climb the vertical recess leading up to the lunch ledge.

P5. 20m (19). At the top of P4 is a face with a set of vertical cracks. Climb the vertical crack second from the right hand edge of the face to a ledge.

P6. 15m (17). Move left to a crack system and continue 3m up to a stance.

P7. Climb up the face and traverse left into the large chimney system. Continue to the top.

Dark overhanging crack starting atop boulder. Beware of birds.

Walk about 50m right of the grooves on a ledge below an overhang with a Y-Shaped crack in orange and grey rock.

1. Climb around the left-hand side of the roof and up the corner. Take the right-hand fork of the Y. Climb up to a stance behind a block on the right.

2. Traverse right around the skyline and zig-zag up the ramp.

3. Take-off the right-hand side of the ledge and up the crack/recess.

4. Climb the recess on the left.

5. Start on the left, move right and up a crack. Go left and up to a ledge.

6. Start on the right and move up leftwards on jugs. Continue up the face and then move diagonally right through small overhangs onto a ledge leading to the right of a pinnacle block.

7. Climb to a ledge just higher (10m).

8. Climb up in the open-book to a rest. Either stem up and move right, or move right and climb up further around. Continue up an easier break and groove to a belay.

9. Climb the steep recess, move right at the top.

10. Step left and pull through the overlap. Climb up to massive overhangs. Move to the right and follow the recess to the top.

Features a strenuous start followed by a good mix of climbing styles. Start in the same place as Dogmatix.

1. 20 m (22) Start up Dogmatix for ~3m. At the rail below the roof traverse ~3m right until able to pull strenuously up into a corner. Follow the corner for several meters and then step left and up to a stance on a ledge.

2. 20 m (20) Head straight up and then slightly right to pull through the thin roof at its narrowest point. Continue up slabs and a tiny corner (micro cams useful) to a gargantuan ledge.

3. 40 m (18) Start 7m right of Dogmatix at a monster pocket containing a small cairn. Climb up to a break, then up on orange flakes to the right of a projecting block. Continue up a short corner to a ledge, then another 5m to the next large ledge.

4. 15 m (16) This pitch is actually 'Dogmatix' last pitch. Use a massive layback flake to gain a ledge, then move left to a prominent corner. Climb the recess to the roof, step left, and up to a rail. Pull right and over the roof and then easily up to a ledge.

Descent: The descent scramble/ abseil is about 30m in front of you when you top out.

This route starts about 2m to the left of the start of 'Gnasher' at the obvious crack.

1. [19] 23m

   Climb the awkward crack moving left at the top to reach the large belay ledge of 'Gnasher'.

2. [22] 20m

   Above the belay ledge is a vertical wall split by some cracks. Climb the cracks until near the top where a step left can be made to a foot ledge. Pull up on jugs to ledge. A very sustained pitch. Protection is excellent (if you have the strength to put it in).

3. [13] 26m

   Move right from the ledge onto the arete and climb arete to a scoop near the top. Pull over to belay.

As one descends into Cedarberg kloof from the normal campsite a short face is visible slightly upstream on the opposite side of the kloof.

1. [22] 20m Climb the break on the right hand side. Climb up a break to a roof, pull through the roof and finish on a sloping mantle.

This route shares the chain belay with Normal Route. It is a long and very challenging route that should be developed for sport climbing at some point.

Start at the furthest right hand of the nose and on delicate holds keeping to the rib of the rock move upwards.

2m right of Bat Attack , there will be 2 bolts and use the same safety bolt as Bat attack. EXPOSED CLIPPING use safety bolt. Start at the left of 2 grooves then step right after the overhang to follow the steep right hand groove exiting left to finish.

Using the crack at the top of the rock, you can setup an anchor with large cams Black Diamond sizes 2-6 work. This is a bit left of the crack and about 2m left of the normal route.

Startup 'Your Body is a Wonderland NK' moving left thru the overlap system. At the slab fork right up the hairline crack. Continue to the roof then rail left to join the original line.

Climb the face to the overlap, rail left then up into the open book. The large loose block on the right is keyed in and good. At the triangular overhang move right. Use the layback to access a pocket/ slot(crux) as an intermediate to bump to another small side pull, then up to the rail. Continue diagonally right, skirting the really large roof. Continue up the break to reach the slab. Finish at the roof.