Vías en Africa para grado seleccionado

Left of 1 and 2. Start on the right end of the bigger cliff on low, big jugs. Move straight up, mantling the lip at the top.

Around the left of the main cave are some low jugs. Seated start as low and left as possible. Traverse right, then up and around the corner, finishing standing in the cave.

The route follows the obvious crack from the ground to its end for 55 metres.

From the top of the crack a pitch of easy, unprotected slab climbing leads to the summit.

This is a sustained and serious climb (not just for the lead climber) and caution should be taken with loose rock.

Protection: there are two bolts on the second pitch, but the main protection is with natural gear. At least one 6.5 cam or similar should be carried to avoid extreme run-outs.

Solo the arête.

Solo up from below the roof.

Scramble up to the first bolt at the roof where the route starts. Bust through the roof to the chains on interesting holds. Less whining more climbing!

Up left side of chimney. Missing last bolt and anchors

A great line up the massive crack you can see from town. Many belays are fixed but in very poor condition, take some cord. Can run many pitches together at the end.

L 1 65 m 6a Go up a varied crack and relay on the right. L 2 35 m 6b + Go up a first steep wall (1 bolt) then in stem a vertical jump initiating the crack of the following lengths. Avoid pulling on the two stuck scales and climb with finesse. L 3 45 m 6a Reassemble a fine plugged crack (1 spit) then this same crack over the entire length. L 4 45 m 5+ Go up a chimney at the bottom and reach the belay on a less inclined area. L 5 50 m 5+ An exceptional length taking place on sculpted rock between two cracks. L 6 45 m 5+ Go up a fireplace. L 7 45 m 5 then 3+ Follow the crack until it tilts. Gain a terrace to relay L 8 40 m 5 Go up a chimney. L 9 20 m 3+ Exit the crack by a chimney. L 10 70 m 3 Climb a small step and gain a foothold on the slabs on the right, allowing to gain a pass. From this pass, join the normal route of Jebel Taka to reach the summit in 45 minutes of hiking-climbing (slabs in 3). See 1939 Brown-Hodgkin route.

2 short pitches interrupted by ledge. P1 is bold, 5c/6a. P2 is the central line up the nice wall above, but has lost holds and is harder

Bloc

Same start as 1. Traverse left to easy ground.

No info. Please message MCK if you have a description (https://www.mck.or.ke/contact)

Easiest approach along Arrow Face Right Face traverse. Abseil point from the cherry tree below enormous detached feature mid traverse. Abseil down for the first 2 pitches from “base camp”. 50m rope just adequate.

1. [21] 20m Climb break in the centre of the wall in line with the abseil to a ledge.

2. [20] 30m Climb the short wall above through the roof. Up cleaned rock, slightly right at the small overhang, pull through and diagonally left to the cherry tree.

3. [12] 15m Scramble on the outside of the anvil-shaped feature and left to the tip.

4. [22] 25m From the tip of the anvil rail 1m left and climb straight up. Up the slab above to a thin crack break above small overlap. Up this, up to a higher rail to rest on the right under another small overhang. Up to the small ledge above on the left.

5. [22] 15m Straight up to the corner leading to the roof. Move left until an undercling and footholds enable one to reach above the overhang. Up the wall on the left to a ledge.

6. [22] 30m Walk 15m left to a corner leading to a rail through the roof. Climb up and left to the blunt arete. Straight up this. Continue in a straight line to chain on a big block in the middle of the bushy ledge.

7. [22] 40m Start 5m to the left on a white arete. Climb up on the pockets, up the break above tending left to below the obvious undercut chimney feature. Puzzle this out and finish at a chain just above.

8. [16] 40m Up 5m to a ledge. Walk left and climb the juggy wall to the top.

On the same level on the ledge to the right is a chain abseil point. 4 abseils off chains around blocks take you back to the traverse line.

Hiking Approach:

Start from the Newlands Forestry Station by walking to the south to gain the steep jeep track only-just in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Hike up the track to gain the contour path at approximately 400m ASL. Turn right (to the north) on the contour path. Continue over a short section of wooden boardwalk. A short distance beyond, turn a left corner to encounter a jumbled scree slope of big boulders. The Fernwood Gully stream is a few metres further on. Hike up the streambed, including a section where the stream disappears underground, and go up leftwards to find the streambed again. Continue until the streambed ends in a dense jungle. Use a 15m tunnel up to the right to get through the jungle. Head up leftwards up steep slopes and then conglomerate boulders to then clear the forest. Traverse the steep slopes to the left to gain the streambed in the well-formed Fernwood Gully. Head up the gully and waterfalls, sometimes using the slopes to the right, for a long way until ending at the base of the enormous wall. Begin three pitches of gully climbing in the extreme left of the gorge by climbing through trees and then into the open gully. The third pitch finishes with a section of worrying looking decaying stone that can be climbed safely. Alternatively, it can be bypassed on the right by climbing up the gully. Traverse across to the big Graveyard Ledge on the left, 20m below the Long Thin Overhang.

Abseil Approach:

Take the cable car then hike to Maclear’s Beacon and then down Smuts’ Track towards Kirstenbosch. At the first big plateau 80m lower down one is level with the top of Wormhole Buttress and Fernwood Face. A 10m tall rocky outcrop is found to the left of the path. At this point leave the Smuts Track and follow vague paths towards the summit of Fernwood Buttress about 500m to the south-east. Immediately before heading uphill to the summit turn left into a shallow valley and walk down it into the pine forest. Bear left to arrive in a beautiful campsite under an overhanging rockface about 7m tall. In front of the campsite walk 15m downslope between the pines to arrive at the precipice. A metre or two above the lowest level is a little ledge on the left with a little rock promontory to its left. Hold on the good handholds to peer 30cm around the corner to encounter the top of the abseil route that goes all the way to the bottom of the cliff.

Abseil 1 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack and not much else. Abseil to the broken ledge 12m down. Keep to the north (Protea Buttress side) of the Rocky Tower and go over the edge of the grassy slope. Place a couple of directional pieces of gear to keep the line tending northwards to gain 3m in that direction on the descent, and to stay in on the mountain. Get to the lip of a huge roof underneath where a section of steel-grey rock meets white rock in a vertical line. Progressively place three directionals (small cams) below the roof to gain the big ledge four metres lower. Traverse easily to the next abseil point which is visible six metres along the ledge to the north. The lead abseiler must provide a ‘fireman’s belay’ to the second belayer who will remove the directionals and each time will ‘ping’ out into space. The second abseiler should use a locking abseil device like a Micro Jul or make use of a prussik. The second abseiler should have the haul-bag directly attached to the belay loop via a quickdraw.

Abseil 2 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack. This abseil does not do a diagonal, but as it is over-vertical, directionals are required. Abseil to the big ledge with the beautiful Rooi Els tree. The next abseil point is one metre from the tree. Most parties will spend a night on this very attractive ledge on the south (Muizenberg) side of the tree.

Abseil 3 60m:

The lead abseiler must place one or two directionals below the big roof halfway down so as to avoid being stranded a metre or two out in space at the next abseil point.

Abseil 4 50m:

The fourth abseil gets the team to the Graveyard Ledge. After passing the Long Thin Overhang either place directionals to the south to land on the Ledge (first abseiler to belay rope), alternatively, continue into the gully and then swing/scramble across the gap to get onto the Graveyard Ledge.

Start:

The route begins on the Graveyard Ledge approximately in the mid-point of the Long Thin Overhang at a small cairn. The route begins up a natural break approximately 15m from the Gully.

1. 25m 20:

   Climb the natural break and horizontal rails most of the way to the ledge, then rail out right for a few metres and then up to the ledge. Walk right to stance near the end of the ledge at a cairn.

2. 30m 22:

   Place important cams in the roof of the Long Thin Overhang before climbing around it to the right. Climb up to the next roof and then rail out left and around the corner for another six metres to an opportunity to stand. At this point one is back above the start of the route. Climb the crack for 10m and then do a slightly runout section to a small seated stance for one.

3. 15m 21:

   Climb up diagonally to the right to the obvious little three-finger pocket in the white wall. Step right and then go up to the ledge 4m above. Climb up diagonally to the right to regain a ledge at an abseil point.

4. 35m 22:

   Climb straight up to the rail and then go right for a couple of metres. Climb up the immaculate and sustained wall for 20m towards the big roofs, passing two ancient pitons while wending your way up. Climb diagonally up towards the left to intersect the band of highly-weathered rock. Continue diagonally up across the narrow, vegetated gully and continue in this direction for a few more metres to get to a comfortable little ledge with seating for one.

5. 35m 22:

   Climb the beautiful white and streaky wall diagonally up to the right for a few metres and then continue up black streaks on white rock until forced to step right across the void into a bottomless chimney. Continue up the chimney until able to regain the steep white wall on the left for the last six metres to the Rooi Els Ledge.

6. 30m 22:

   Climb up directly from the Rooi Els and continue straight up the break until forced to go out left for a couple of metres. Head up angling to the right and then traverse out right across a steep slab and then up to the right to gain a ledge.

7. 17m 21:

   Start a metre to the left of the arete and climb the bulging wall. Head up and then diagonally left to get to the ledge called Traverse of the Eagles (named by the 1966 party that opened Fernwood Precipice Direct) and a point on the abseil route.

8. 20m D:

   Traverse left under the huge roof until beyond it. Stance just before the start of the tan brown rock at the end.

9. 35m 23:

   Reverse a few metres along the Traverse of the Eagles and then climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break immediately adjacent to the huge roof. Do a tenuous traverse to the right across the steep and exposed slab for a metre-and-a-half (just above the lip of the huge roof) to gain a vertical break. Do very thin slab climbing for 5m to a rail. This section is protected by a Rock 1 or equivalent small wire. Do a footless fingertips rail to the right until able to stand around the corner. Climb up and leftwards for 3m to the small roof then move a metre left and climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break. Continue up for 6m to a roof and pull through it going slightly leftwards. Four metres higher traverse a metre or two to the right to gain a chimney. Climb the chimney to a grassy ledge. Scramble up to stance on top of the rocky tower on the left.

10. 15m 20:

    Move a couple of metres left, climb the corner and then the wall on the left and then finish up the bottomless chimney.

Start about 3m left of the CC. Head straight up the centre of the face to a mini arete projecting from the wall. Follow the left side of this to a wide rail. Pull over a shield type feature and up to a point where you can traverse left to finish up 'The Dusk Whales'.

Climbs the buttress to the right of Geomancer, up the right hand, downstream facing wall of the deep gully which forms the lower part of Cannon Fodder.

1. [22] XXm

   Climb up the face to the roof and pull through just left of the arete. Up the headwall to a ledge, staying left of the arete. Belay at the tree above the back of the ledge.

2. [18] XXm

   Climb the buttress above the tree.

Start 5m left of HYDRA just before the head of the PHOENIX subkloof.

1. 20m 22 Climb the layback type crack, past a peg at 4m to a block (crux). Move slightly left and up onto easier rock ending just right of the large roof.

Note: This route was kindly prepared by S Kelsey. Perhaps "Steel" should read "Steal".

Above the right hand side of the boulders mentioned in THUNDER THIGHS DIRECT is an obvious v-shaped break in the roof above. Pull up initial overhang using underclings to the rail, continue up to break, then climb through break (crux) to easier ground, continue up vague recess above to the top.

Start up Feline for a few moves then step right and arc up the face to a ledge. Straight up to the roof. Pull through the roof (minimal gear) and straight to top.

Start on a ledge four metres left and up from Satellite.

Pull up right and then back left to a huge bucket. Move straight up to a poor peg. Continue up and slightly right to the top.

The roof crack bounding the downstream side of the top of the BULLIT buttress. Scramble and climb to the highest ledge on the buttress i.e. the ledge from which BULLIT's final pitch starts.

1. 20m 23 Climb up easily leftwards to the corner-crack leading to the roof. Trickily up this crack, then out right along the roof crack to the lip.

Crack line up the left of the orange face.

About 50m left of 'Heck, Tick'. The route follows the crack that breaks the large red face and through a roof at 25m. Tend right into the recess just above and step out to the top.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Start about 5m left of the CC. Follow the vague arete to reach a wide vertical crack. Follow this to the crack leading through the roof. Continue up the short corner above to the vegetated ledge. Move right to a rap anchor (wire and touch point).

A long, satisfying journey with demanding sections.

Start as for Fantasy Factory but tend slightly right though the low roof and straight to the ledge. Continue straight, passing the first roof on the left, and then directly up passing two horizontal breaks (in this section there are some ancient bolts to the right from an abandoned project). At the next ledge, continue straight up a wide recess and though a weakness at the next overlap on the left. Navigate the centre of the final face, tending right at the top to a final crank through a roof to a ledge. Abseil tat to the left.

This route is on the back of the Crazy Diamond Tower. Scramble up the gulley between the Crazy Diamond Tower and the Shine on Prow until you get to an obvious slab of rock. Traverse left into a break, then follow the crack system diagonally up and right to the top of the tower.

Climbs the dihedral and crack system on the arete to the right of PHOENIX i.e. the route is situated between VALKYRIE and TYKES DELIGHT.

1. 25m 23 Pull up onto the base of the arete (as for TYKES DELIGHT). Climb leftwards to gain the dihedral system and follow this to the top.

About 5m to the right of HOT CANARY is a short corner topped by a roof. To its right, above 2 large, flatish boulders are 2 smooth, overhanging bulges. Straddle up the corner to the roof, then rail right above the first bulge to a cramped position. Pull through second bulge strenuously until the grade eases, then continue up ridge above (excellent dynamic moves).

The aesthetic arête on the wall opposite 'Little Bitch', and left of a large tree up the slope from 'Funky Fruit'. Excellent climbing, sparse gear. Start on the left and follow the arête with a triangular recess about halfway up. Look for cunning gear placements on the right wall. Small nuts/cams and micro nuts recommended.

At the first steep rock pitch leading up to Red Waterfall Face, traverse left and belay under the clean grey corner system.

1. 19 (75m). Climb the corner system on mostly excellent rock to a big grassy/fynbos ledge. This can be simul climbed for a few metres or split into two pitches the first pitch being 55m.

2. 23 (35m). Carefully climb up the lichen covered corner (15) to the overlap where the thin crack starts. Climb the crack (23) with good pro to under the overhang and belay off the abseil thread and a 2inch cam back-up on the left.

3. 21 (45m). From the belay move left and pull onto the face (23 move if you are short). Then move back left above the belay and do a tricky move to a short hand jamb crack. Up this and then diagonal up left to a ledge. Continue up the right facing corner to a juggy rail. Above you is a perfect gold cam placement! This is behind a large scary rocking loose flake that catches on top when it rocks so is difficult to dislodge and throw off. Avoid the flake by climbing up on the right. Find your way up the grey pillar to a large ledge. Walk right along the ledge to belay under the massive left facing dihedral and belay at a fixed nut abseil point.

4. 22R (50m). Climb up a few metres directly below the dihedral and then swing right into the hidden shallow recess on the right. Climb carefully up the gorgeous rock to the base of the dihedral. Do a tricky move into the base of the dihedral and then climb the ramp up left (R). Head past the stacked overhangs and then up the orange face to the overlap (R). At the pinch move right into the dihedral proper to the main overhang above and rail out right on to a comfy ledge.

5. 17 (25m). Step up a few metres and then traverse left under the overhang keeping low and past a dodgy looking thread and nut abseil point. Climb up the corner above to the overhang and then move out right to a small stance. Rope drag is likely to force you to belay here.

6. 20 (20m). Climb straight up the steep rock (R) to find good gear before a cruxy move. Continue to a ledge. Combining the next pitch is not wise.

7. 21 (30m). Climb up a bit left and then back right to a fixed nut and biner abseil point at the base of the black crack. Climb the crack or move slightly right and skirt the crack to end up above it. Diagonal up left and then back right and up to a belay and abseil thread point around a bollard. Belay more comfortably on a ledge to the left.

DESCENT: Abseil the route as per the fixed points. This is somewhat scary but efficient. Otherwise head up right and then down to the Sublime Time Abseils. Another option is to go down the High Time Abseils if you know how to find them. The last abseil from the thread on pitch 2 at the end of the 23 crack takes you all the way down past the grassy/fynbos ledge to a walk off ledge system at the very end of 60m!

GEAR: Standard rack with double cams from micro to 1.5 inch. Standard sets of nuts. 12-14 slings. Take extra tat for the 1st, 3rd, and final abseil. No RP’s needed. 60m ropes! This route can be climbed with a single rope and a tag line for abseiling.

Start halfway between Drive on and Egg-Sucking Dog. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight through the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

Start a few meters downstream of 'Lifebuoy', in a left-facing corner.

1. 15m 22 Climb straight up to the largest flat roof and break through the right hand side of this. Continue up to a ledge on the right. Easy rock leads to the top.

Start on the right of the Zig-Zag ledge. Climb the crack past two pegs to a rail. Traverse two metres left and climb the break to the top. A direct finish (23) goes up the wall directly above the second peg.

This climb is situated directly opposite the huge rotten recess which separates the BULLIT and SPACEWALK buttresses. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge. Start about 6m downstream of RASP. A pentagonal roof lurks 12m above.

1. 20m 23 Climb a thin crack to an incipient block. Gain the base of the flared recess with difficulty and climb up to the roof. Exit left and climb more easily to beneath an overhang cut by an off-width crack.

2. 10m 22 Climb the crack.

Up the crack then left to the funky tufa feature. The Route is runout.

Tricky start, then tend up and right to the small left facing corner. Up and left to follow the left crack tending up to join 'Rolex'.

Climbs the smooth face right of 'Fiona' . There is a bolt about 18m up.

Climb the tangle of overhanging roots to a stance 5m right of 'Tree Love' rock start. Climb the corner through a roof, 3m right of the prow. Exits up left groove/ chimney.

This route ascends the obvious tramline cracks about 30 m left of The Devil Drives. The left crack is wider and is capped by a triangular block.

1. 27 m. Move up to the foot of cracks and into right hand crack when possible. Up this for 12 m until a move left can be made into the wider crack. Up this to belay on block on left (peg belay).

2. 27 m. Step right to thin crack and up to roof. Move right under roof (1 aid peg), then lower off nut to gain obvious crack low down on the steep right wall. Up crack (1 aid nut), then step left to corner (1 aid peg), and sloping ledge. Up onto large ledge above and belay. Freed by H Barber - Step right to thin crack and continue traversing right to niche below headwall.

3. 28 m. Move up then traverse left around corner and descend slightly to ramp. Follow this to steeper wall which is climbed to broken ground. Scramble off right. Seriousness: 5

Start at the left end of the Lourie Cave.

From some large square boulders, pull on the short face perpendicular to main wall. Traverse left under roof and pull on wall above. Step right and up to the next blocky roof. Head up and left to an exposed and undercut recess. Pull into this (crux) and up the good rail above. Continue up and tend right across the face above, moving right under some grass and up to a ledge. Find a good stance with a rap point.

On the far right of the wall, a prominent crack rises R of a wide chimney. The route follows the crack to the top. Four men bled into this route on the first ascent. The crack is wide and quite loose. More ascents needed to determine grade.

Climbs the steep wall to the left of the top pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 25m 23 Climb past a few ledges to below a steep face split by a few cracks. Climb up the face and diagonally right to a ledge on the right arete of CANDLEHORSE. Move back left and jug haul to the top.

About 1,5m to the right of SMOKE ALLEY is an obvious crack running up and through overhangs. JUGULAR VEIN climbs this crack.

Approach Once on the rib followed to Sublime Time Buttress, go up a little way following cairns and then exit left into the gulley. Follow cairns up the gulley past low angle rock slabs that may be wet and slippery after rain. Once these peter out, exit left on to the next ridge and follow cairns to the base of the route

BETA: This is a long route with plenty of problem solving moves and most parties, even if fairly skilled, will take 8-10 hours to complete on-sight. It will be a tough on-sight in mid-winter even in good weather but abseiling off with torches should not be problematic. September to May when the days are longer is recommended and a weather forecast of maximum temperatures of say no less than 20 degrees C or more than 30 degrees C for Worcester and preferably partly cloudy too would be ideal. Do not climb the route if there is a strong NW front with strong wind coming in as this might get your ropes stuck on the abseil.

In good conditions 1.5 litre water per person will suffice but otherwise 2 litres each.

If climbing in a party of two or even three, time and energy can be saved by hauling up water and snacks and warm jackets if needed on the pumpy first pitch as it is less than 30m long. Thereafter there is no merit in hauling gear. As you climb, and conditions change you can leave extra water, jackets and the like at any of the stances after pitch 3 and retrieve same on the abseils.

Only pitch one is complex and pumpy to protect but it is safe enough for competent climbers.

1. 25m 22+. Climb up the grey stacked blocks and then move left a few metres on red-brown rock to climb up below the right end of the overhang. Find a sneaky tiny cam placement in an “undercling” position to protect the move. At the overhang scuttle right 2m metres on the rail. Then straight up to the next rail. Place a high large nut and lay back up the short left facing corner to jugs. Climb up 3m to where it gets grotty and place a high cam or nut to protect the second. Step down left and then make standing stance at bomber nut 7 placement.

2. 45m 20. Climb up to the off-width crack and up it past the tree to a rail. Continue up to the next rail, move right and lay back up 2m up the short right facing corner. Then step right onto the face and head up to the large right facing corner topped by an overhang. Climb up the corner and then step right into the next recess. Continue up to the square overhang above and stance on the good sitting ledge on the right after placing a bomber small nut.

3. 50m 19. Step across the gap under the square overhang and climb past the left side of the long thin overhang above. Do tricky face moves to a good ledge. Climb up past a large scary but wedged flake and then up the intimidating grey white face to the left of dark brown recess to stance on blocks at a thread point in situ.

4. 45m 19. Head up left and climb through the gap on good holds. Climb the right slanting recess crack to easier ground and up past the left side of a large pillar complex to stance on blocks just to the right of the large yellow overhang.

5. 40m 22+. Climb up to the overhang and place two tiny cams in the very thin rail. Exit awkwardly out and up left (crux). Continue up tricky moves on the yellow face overhang and then step out left. Climb easily up rightwards to the left facing corner above and then on up to the next, larger left facing corner. Then, instead of climbing in the corner, make a move up to the right and finish up the arete. Stance on the large ledge.

6. 35m 19. Avoid the smooth right facing dihedral and climb up the large lay-back flake to the right. Continue up to the bulging rib and lay back up the right side. Then step left and continue up the left side of the arete. Stance under the large overhang. Pitch 7. 20m 19. Do a tricky move up left past the lip of the overhang. Then move right on a ledge and bomb straight through the overlap above to a thread belay.

7. etc. 100m or so. If you feel like topping out or wish to descend via the Timerity Abseil or some other way, then pick a line on the broken up cliffs above.

Descent: 60m ropes are needed for the abseils. The descent is relatively save and uncomplicated an enjoys 5 abseils on threads or off a spike. There is a biner or mailon on each point. The route is very straight and you climb past all the threads on the ascent except the first (lowest one) one which is exactly 58m plumb-line below the 2nd point. It is very easy to find as it is in the left facing corner that is the continuation of the awkward off-width start to pitch 2.

Gear. No special gear is needed and like Yellowwood in general, the rock eats up small cams. Only the 2nd pitch necessitates any piece larger than 2 inches and a gold Camelot fits the bill perfectly as you enter the offwidth. So, all that is needed is a standard single set of nuts 1 to 10, (no RP’s) 12-14 slings, and a double set of cams to 1.5inch, one 2inch (red Camelot), one 3 inch (yellow Camelot) and one 4 inch (blue Camelot). The climbing is very problem solving and the first pitch especially so. So to improve efficiency avoid tricky nut placements and bang in small cams in the bountiful placements. This route is straight enough to climb with a single rope but then take 2 extra slings and a tagline to abseil off.

Belays. All the belays are super safe. The first is protected by a variety of pieces but there is a bomber nut placement that fits from size 7 to 10 and a ¾ inch cam. The second stance is on a comfy ledge with small cam belay but there is a bomber nut 3 or 4 placement just as you exit right to the stance. Your leader can use this as the first anti-death runner as he/she sets off up pitch 3. Pitch 3 you can belay off the abseil anchor and same with pitch 4 and 5 but there are other easy options. Pitch six is on a ledge with lots of easy options and pitch 7 is also at the abseil point.

Pitches 1-3 as for Manoeuvres by Moonlight.

The arête right of Junkie and Juicehead. Climb the face directly below the arete, at the roof traverse 1m left and then follow the arched, undercling crack to the arete. Straight to the top.

Start as for 'Shady Overhang'.

1. 15m 23 Climb straight up to the roof (SHADY OVERHANG trends right). Break through about 2m left of 'Shady Overhang' and follow the thin crack to a ledge. Easy rock leads to the top.

Contrived, but technical with some good moves. Start as for Nog High and continue on this climb until four metres along the traverse from the tree. Climb straight up from this point keeping left of the shallow open book. Move right to exit.

The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite GABOOM. Start 8m downstream of KLOOF DESCENT group of large boulders.

1. 30m 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.

2. 10m 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.

Note: Which pitch is the catch?

Approach : as for rest of Upper Waterfall crag, walk up and past 2'nd pool. Just before big roofs on approach to WS, path splits off to the left. Follow cairns to base of rock.

1. Climb the recess at base of the crag. After 8m and a ledge, get into the beautifully clean off-width, and follow this to a big ledge.

2. Get into the off-width. After 4m break out left, following the rails and finger cracks diagonally up and leftward, staying left of the main off-width. After the big roof, off-width and left breaks merge. From here follow the obvious slanting off-width to a big ledge with a tree on.

Descent: big tree on ledge offers an abseil down to base of crag with 60m rope. Alternatively top out, follow escarpment over stream and back to main descent/ascent gully.

Maybe just on a side note about gear: Doesn't take a standard rack, bring your biggest friends. And nuts...