Ascensiones en Arapiles como Red point por Douglas Hockly

Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.

Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.

A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.

Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.

I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.

More like 24?

A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.

Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.

The bolts flex alarmingly

A bit slimy now, but I did it with three dynos, so that's always fun.

Great climbing, technical crux at start. After the bolts I remember small opposed wires, small cam, #3RP, medium cam (red or yellow camalot). Looks like 32!

After the alcove I stopped at every move looking for gear as I wasn't convinced about the nest below.. I fell off slapping the jug at the top and went most of the length of the route. The gear was fine!

Has a very, very cool crux move - drive by from layaway to undercling

Very cool past the pillar.. I wish the chip was bigger! Nearly fell off every move after the crux to the top. Was too pumped to put the wire in so it was pretty exciting!

Backed off second pitch - I'll try taking a big cam for the pocket. Seemed committing pulling over the bulge.

Desperately hard start

I really like this one. Great line, great climbing, great history. 4 days.

Backed off this 10 years ago before the bolt was placed, and fell off it even with it! Really good rock and climbing, take a good number of small wires. Felt hard for the grade to me but Adam seemed to find a better sequence.

I really liked this -- big holds, varied, accessible grade. Good warmup for the others

Great route. Classic Arapiles hard route, slopey and slippery and sustained. 6 days, including falling off slapping the last jug...

Great climbing but not great rock! I seem to be alone in finding this 24 - it's sustained, steep and the traverse is taxing to protect well. Several people have hurt themselves falling off it.

I fell off this! If you want to be safe, preplace cams above the start and preclip them on the abseil in. The start is hard and greasy and odd. So's the rest of it. The gr19 DF is pretty hard and exciting too (gear is ok, take small cams)

Technical

Wandery but good.Took me two days, that was when I realised I wasn't going to do all the Moorhead '81 routes in a year!

The second pitch is the only route I have gotten up before Nick Sutter! I find the first pitch desperate, especially placing the gear. The second pitch is desperate too, but only for a few moves, then it's easy.

Wandery but good climbing. You don't climb past the pin - you traverse L underneath it. Double ropes are good.

Super greasy committing layback around the roof.. gets a star just for the insecurity.

Fabulous.

Very good! The first pitch is good and tricky - well protected apart from the start of Kingdom Come. The second pitch is hard and intimidating - I had to come back on a second day (why do I always attempt things on the back of the Pharos when I am hung over?). Even Malcolm didn't onsight it! You do the crux off a small wire or two and then run it out quite a long way. Great route.

Had my best day ticking ghosts when I did Spasm, Genug and this.. though Gordy had to show me how to do this by the end.

Went for it off the wire at the rest... and fell off the last move.

Very good, but once you pull the lip it's over, which is a little disappointing. Maybe only use one arm on the top bit?

Two stars and maybe 24. What a great route. Slabby, vertical, steep - it's all hard. Supercool.

I did the easy start (HAGF), which makes it maybe 27. Good technical climbing. 2 days. On the top wall I remember lunging for a jug, my feet came off and Gareth took in thinking I was coming off - but I held the jug and then had to hold nearly being pulled off. Just squeaked through.

Great sustained climbing, a little sharp but stays dry unless rain has been heavy. A good one to fall off as it's a good clean fall. Second shot.