Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | Fecha | |||
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Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom Sutherland Shire | ||||||||
16 | ★ Rose-coloured Glasses | 10m | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Abr 2020 | ||||
17 | ★ Micah | 10m | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Abr 2020 | ||||
17 | ★ Dark Ages | 12m | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Abr 2020 | ||||
17 | ★ Arcadia | 10m | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Abr 2020 | ||||
Arapiles Western Side Campbell's Kingdom | ||||||||
12 | Goose Neck | 45m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | Piss de Resistance | 15m | Medio | Sáb 27.º Nov 2010 | ||||
Tough and fingery for several metres.
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16 | Piss | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
16 | Piss | 15m | Ni te molestes | Sáb 27.º Nov 2010 | ||||
Started as a lead solo, but there was rain, lichen, loose blocks, I was on my own...
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18 | ★ Kickapoo Joy Juice | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★ Kickapoo Joy Juice | 15m | ★ Buena | Sáb 27.º Nov 2010 | ||||
Would be in the book if it were elsewhere.
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17 | Andrew's | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | Andrew's | 15m | Medio | Sáb 27.º Nov 2010 | ||||
One tricky move.
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14 | Thistledown | 35m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | Cold Comfort | 20m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 20m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 20m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ True Grit | 20m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
9 | Carthaginian | 50m | Medio | 1977 | ||||
21 | Pr.Asc. ★ Barleycorn | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
21 21 R | ★ Barleycorn | 15m | Lun 16.º Feb 1998 | |||||
18 | ★★ Stoker | 13m | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
Good fun crack, one of the best climbs at campbells
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19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
like everything on this wall, mossy towards the top, there's also an unavoidable floating column mid climb
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19 | ★ Hair of the Dog | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ Swill | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
17 | ★ Swill | 15m | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
like everything on this wall, mossy towards the top
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17 | ★ Swill | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
it's ok, but I prefered other routes on this wall
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21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 6.º Nov 1995 | ||||
Would be popular if it were close to camp
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21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
21 | ★★ Caught in a Crossfire | 15m | Lun 16.º Feb 1998 | |||||
16 | ★ Deep Throat | 15m | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
like everything on this wall, mossy towards the top
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16 | ★ Deep Throat | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Deep Throat | 15m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
16 | ★ Deep Throat - con Norm, Maureen | 15m | Dom 11.º Mayo 2014 | |||||
Got a bit psyched by the loose blocks.
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11 | ★★ Beginners' Luck | 12m | ★ Buena | Jue 6.º Oct 2011 | ||||
13 | ★ The Seven Year Itch | 45m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
13 | ★ The Seven Year Itch | 45m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | ★ Cancer | 45m | Vie 16.º Jun 2017 | |||||
Good fun, not really very mossy. In fact, Abby described it as "impeccable for an obscure route that hadn't been done in 40 years"!
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20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★★ Vegemite | 50m | ★ Buena | Mié 7.º Jun 2017 | ||||
Old fashioned team ascent. I baulked at relying on the old piton, Simey bravely went worth a few more metres before bailing for me to get us up the pitch. The climbing is actually pretty good, the gear a bit fiddly but would be safe if the piton was replaced with a bolt. Second pitch didn't look worth bothering with and we headed off left to the anchors on CdL. Finishing up Promite also looks good.
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19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 16.º Feb 1998 | ||||
19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion - con Wendy Eden | 43m | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 15.º Mayo 2016 | ||||
Awesome in the first half, the rest is much easier and some loose rock but wow the first half is amazing. Like a harder version of Toccata, and now has a rap station.
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19 | ★★ Coeur de Lion | 43m | ★★★ Clásico | Dom 15.º Mayo 2016 | ||||
Really awesome route. Sort of like Frog climbing on Arapiles rock with a splash of limestone thrown in.
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15 | Snorkler | 62m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | Medio | Sáb 24.º Abr 2004 | ||||
1st pitch=don't bother, 2nd pitch=good, overall=average
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15 | Snorkler | 62m | ★ Buena | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | ||||
it's a bit loose and mossy in places,but so is most of Campbells. Still worth doing, striking line
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15 | Snorkler | 62m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
15 | Snorkler | 62m | Medio | Jue 6.º Oct 2011 | ||||
19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes | 35m | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | |||||
Some good climbing taking into account the usual Campbell's Kingdom poorly trafficked rock. Bits of pumpy, tenous, funky and a little exciting.
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19 | ★ Silent Senile Running Foxes - con Wendy Eden | 35m | ★ Buena | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | ||||
I thought this was quite good - apart from being diagonal, the rock's pretty good (apart from the start) and the climbing's quite interesting.
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19 | Silent Running | 59m | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | |||||
23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm | 35m, 2 | ★ Buena | Jue 9.º Jun 2016 | ||||
Rain whilst I bolted, rain when we climbed it ... why do people say winter is the best season at Araps? THe second pitch of this route is fun steep climbing on good rock with good gear.
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23 | ★ Rain Aneurysm - con Wendy Eden | 35m, 2 | ★ Buena | Jue 9.º Jun 2016 | ||||
Easy chossy start but the business is good rock and an interesting crux down low (if you're tall) and sustained up high.
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20 | ★★ Dilettante | 50m | Sáb 4.º Jun 2016 | |||||
The second pitch of this route is awesome. Slightly burly, old school funky crack. Sadly the first and last pitch are scrappy. Would be 2 stars without that. I might put an anchor above the good climbing.
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21 | ★★ Dilettante - con Wendy Eden | 50m | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | ||||
This is really good. The loose easy start detracts but the business is really interesting climbing on good rock - and now has a rap station on top. Hard for the grade, even once I'd cleaned out the fingerlocks!
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13 | ★ Cactus Fuctus | 60m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | Medio | Jue 6.º Oct 2011 | ||||
14 | Heart Full of Soul | 60m | Sáb 4.º Jun 2016 | |||||
The first pitch of this route was filthy and loose which somewhat detracted from the rest of the route but it seemed ok overall in hindsight. The original finish seemed rather pointless and we took the direct. Nice corner in second pitch and DF.
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16 | Heart Full of Soul - con Wendy Eden, Kylie Jarrett, Kane Hendy | 60m | ★ Buena | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | ||||
As I was seconding I could go up the 'mossy slab' which is quite nice climbing and rock. Not recommended to lead as it has no gear, but I might put a few bolts in it. This improves the route as it's more direct and better climbing - I thought it was a pretty good two pitch route. Amazing old twisted pine on top.
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21 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 16.º Feb 1998 | ||||
The obvious direct finish. You'd have to be a fool not to do it.
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21 | ★★ Only Fools Eat Marmite | 30m | ★ Buena | Dom 5.º Jun 2016 | ||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | Dom 1.º Feb 1998 | |||||
20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
20 | ★ Marmite - con Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden | 30m | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | |||||
Or at least it might be Marmite...
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20 | ★ Marmite | 30m | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | |||||
At least we did the first pitch of Marmite ... On reviewing the description, maybe we did the DF. Maybe we did a new route. All 3 of us failed to work out what the "obvious direct finish" was. What we did was good climbing marred by sufficient dodgy rock to make it, um, exhilarating.
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21 | ★ Marmite - con Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Buena | Jue 2.º Jun 2016 | ||||
I led the first pitch and Wendy led the second. I think we did the direct finish. Although my head is terrible for leading atm and I got the wobbles (despite good gear) I was genuinely baffled by the crux of the first pitch and pulled through it. Great effort by Andrew seconding it clean. It's worth a star but there are a number of loose feeling blocks and a huge wedge has fallen out of the initial corner. Thought both pitches felt like 21.
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18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill | 40m | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | |||||
This was going to be a mega classic straightening up a wandery old route. Well, it does go in a lovely straight line but sadly passes some exciting hollow rock. I didn't expect the cool arete finish - funky moves in a great position, gear might leave a little to be desired though.
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18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill | 40m | ★ Buena | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | ||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Standstill - con Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 40m | ★ Buena | Jue 2.º Jun 2016 | ||||
It's a shame that the rock is not so great on this as it's a nice long pitch which is fairly sustained and ends up in a terrific position right on the top arete of the buttress. There is one pretty obvious loose block at about 8m to avoid. A good onsight lead by Wendy!
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18 | ★ Perpetual Motion | 48m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
18 | ★ Perpetual Motion | 48m | Mar 31.º Mayo 2016 | |||||
The route wanders a lot, but has potential to be really quite good. Going back tomorrow to try a more direct version. And it's the same height as the other routes on the wall. Not sure where the enthusiastic 48m came from. Lou led as one pitch.
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16 | Zorba - con Norm, Maureen | 33m | Dom 11.º Mayo 2014 | |||||
Fairly casual til I realised that the roof is just a huge detached block. And then the large flake on the left side of the upper groove is just another almost totally detached thing. Fun and games.
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16 | Zorba | 33m | Medio | Mar 31.º Mayo 2016 | ||||
Climbing is quite good but it is disconcerting to see through the crack in the roof. Not sure how connected it is, but it didn't seem to be going anywhere.
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18 | Pr.Asc. ★ Plumber's crack | 30m | Sáb 24.º Abr 2004 | |||||
obvious crack 2m L of Zorba
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18 | ★ Plumber's crack | 30m | ★ Buena | Mar 31.º Mayo 2016 | ||||
Quite fun flared slippery jams to start. Lou tells me my perpsective is warped. A bit goey then easier but still ok climbing to top.
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13 | ★ Sundowner | 30m | Mar 13.º Abr 2010 | |||||
13 | ★ Sundowner - con Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden | 30m | ★ Buena | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | ||||
13 | ★ Sundowner | 30m | Mié 1.º Jun 2016 | |||||
After Douglas tore out a shrub or 2, this was a nice clean line on good rock. Might be a little tricky for 13, but good climbing
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13 | ★ Sundowner - con Wendy Eden, Andrew Clark | 30m | ★ Buena | Jue 2.º Jun 2016 | ||||
The start's quite good, then the rock quality falls away a bit. Take a few big cams if you want to climb the LH corner, fortunately the RH corner has good normal sized gear and ok climbing.
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9 | ★ Little Ripper | 28m | ★ Buena | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | ||||
Quite good if you start up the wall right of the obvious corner (which has crap rock), then sidle left into the upper crack.
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9 | ★ Little Ripper - con Wendy Eden | 28m | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
13 | Mad Dogs and Englishmen | 20m | Jue 13.º Abr 2023 | |||||
Also a contender for worst route at arapiles, but saved by the cool feature of climbing a steep fat crack that opens at the back into a cave beneath the tottering block that is the top of the pitch. It's cool, but also terrifying that the whole block might come down on you.
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13 | Rover's Revenge | 28m | Jue 13.º Abr 2023 | |||||
Possibly the worst route I have done at arapiles, and I have done some really bad routes here. Mossy, terrible rock, tottering boulders, vegetation, broken by ledges. It is nice belaying at the top of Campbell's kingdom though.
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20 | ★ Jam Jar | 25m | ★ Buena | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | ||||
With my new found Hugh Foxcroft proviso, this is actually a good route. Not 15m though unless you want to solo another 10m chimney from the ledge to the top.
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20 | ★ Jam Jar - con Wendy Eden | 25m | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | |||||
22 | Butternut Snap | 30m | Medio | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 | ||||
I have decided to just add 4 grades to everything with Hugh Foxcroft on the first ascent. Desperate fat hands to offwidth bulge (which is actually quite good despite being desperate) then the upper crack is formed by stacked blocks and generally nerve racking.
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22 | Butternut Snap - con Wendy Eden | 30m | Lun 8.º Mayo 2017 |