Ascensiones de Hanger Wall Arete teniendo Beta

Jumped on the route cause it looked really well bolted and was keen for something chill. Good time working the beta and enjoying the moves on the way up. Pulled over the top onto the slab and was greeted with a nice shiny bail biner in my face. “Aha!” I thought. Some chump couldn’t handle the smoke and now I reap the rewards. I snatched it eagerly. I then spent the next 15 minutes yoyoing up and down the start of the slab nervously looking up at the blank wall it’s a distinct lack of bolts. Eventually someone wanders over to tell up to me that the anchors are just over the lip and while it’s runout it’s pretty easy. Now I have to do it. I’m better then red biner bailer I tell myself. I head up and I’m pleased to find it’s pretty easy. I get a bit higher. Bit harder now, I start to look at the last bolt nervously. Higher still, now I’m in the shadow of the spotlights. I take a shaking hand off a sweaty smear to turn my head torch brighter. It flashes angrily at me, no dice. I can’t even see my belayer anymore. I’m climbing in a faint bubble of light, I could be 3m runout or I could be 30, either way I’m convinced I’ll die if I fall. The holds slowly get worse - retreat is no longer an option. I’m at the event horizon. My mind goes blank. Suddenly a carat bolt appears in front of my eyes. I shakily grab an extender off my harness and limply sling it over the metal. Only half the sling bites in. I know any slight gust of wind will pull it off. I look ahead over the lip and see the anchors almost within reach. One hard move separates me from safety. I take a deep breath…. … … Right foot up. Smear reminiscent of dawn wall foothold. Right hand up. Left hand up. I yell down to my belayer to stop spinning the twister wheel so fast. I blow the dust off the sloped that I’m clinging to and promise myself that if I get out of this alive I’ll take up a safer sport like ice climbing or perhaps wingsuit base jumping. With shaking legs I pull over the lip, frantically grab a draw from my harness and clip the anchors.

Great route would recommend. Probably go next time. Bit spooky at the top but worth it! Maybe a bit soft for 22, could be 21.

Was a bit too tired by the time I got on this climb for the crux, but should go clean when fresh. Good climb though; will be back.

Happy to tick this off. The top slab in the humidity was testing.

TR solo sesh. Finally cracked the code. Damn these stumpy legs of mine.

Harder than I remembered. Committing

Got this oke by the skin of my teeth haha. Good fun!

Felt pretty unsteady at the crux! Bit of a funky one

confused at the top but good fun otherwise

NTS: To clip 4th bolt, left crimp and high right foot. 5th bolt left crimp, right foot low on sloper

Trickier than I remember, though I missed a hold on the arete.

Found no way of doing the crux. Says a lot about my skills to climb an arete! Yes the slab on top is easy but when it’s radiating in the 30deg sun the runout becomes too nervy. Someone put a bolt in the middle please. Slipping from there can result in a nasty massive fall

Continues to elude me... TR solo

Awkward crux, but very interesting. After a first failed attempt, managed to do it! Found a good hold that was crucial for the crux and sent it!

Led up to 5th bolt and could not figure out the moves at first.

Did the hard move then let my head fail me on the moves above to gain the slab!

third bolt is spinning, and the anchors are pretty rusty. Also the slab up top is only carrots which I didn't realise so I ended up runnning it out from the last bolt on the face. Cool, but rather unecessary.

Kooky

Quick run before it poured down!

Fist try leading this after doing it a couple of times on TR. Took a nice big whip falling from the crux to a great catch from Robert Hartley. Need to give this a bit of work on top rope to get the crux sequence right for clipping, then will have another crack.

great climb! scary run out slabby top with carrot bolts.

I think the crux for shorter people is just before the actual crux

Cracking good climb, will project for lead, I think.

Delicate footwork and a tenuous clipping stance make for one of the nicest climbs at the crag imo

One of the fixed hangers is severely bent, possibly as a result of the bolt being loose and it rotating

Didn't know that there's a carrot after the arete! Thankfully nothing too spicy.

A few more laps - keen to lead this.

Lower section is cruisy and fun. Tricky crux. Very run-out between last bolt and anchors (albiet on easy slab). Recommend taking a hanger for the carrots in this section.

😶

Warm up 3.

Climbed to clean GBW

Figured the beta out, send on 3rd try

Fun terrifying commitment all in the crux 😅😭 but overall great climb

Felt good at the crux, still hate the top.

Too pumped to read the crux.

Not bad second go.

Bye Felicia. Time for my shins to recover.

First 22 for Hils!

Balancy and committing - take bolt plates/wires for the runout finish.

Getting there. Two fingers gently down the bottom of the crack. Lock through left leg and twist to face left while sliding (calmly and carefully) right ring finger into place. Jam then reach for jug.

Everything felt pretty good other than clipping while under the roof, was testing whilst on top rope which blocked the crack so probably need to use that nice finger jam crack next time. Pretty run out at the top, worth bringing some bolt plates if not feeling 100%

Couldn't figure out the moves past the crux, so pulled on the draw and finished the route.

That run-out at the top is fascinating.