Vías en Queensland para grado seleccionado

Start to the right of Sesame Wheat

Belay off your abseil line. Starts 3m L of corner at right end of ledge, below big orange hand-hold. Start up wall to good ledge (medium SLCD). Straight up (small SLCD) and then towards horizontal break (medium SLCD). Veer L to layback crack and then up to L side of tree. Up ramp to top.

This is a nice variant start to Send In The Clowns. Start as for the original in the niche but don’t go up the main crackline. Instead, climb out L onto the arête, climbing this to the rooflet, and then up the juggy orange face as per the original, or finish up Big Top for the best exposure!

The leaning, low-angle pillar, and wide shaft behind. The delicate crux is on the slabby pillar (no pro), so don't fall off!

Start at the double RB station atop Sweet Slam (short rap in). Traverse L off the ledge under the roof, and follow the obvious half-height break all the way along the cliff to finish up Big Top. Has its moments, and could be a real challenge for those who are very short.

ACCESS: The start of this climb is on Leftist wall, the obvious wall level with the 3rd pitch of Traxion Action on climbers left. Access the wall by doing the first 2 1/2 pitches of Traxion Action. On the third pitch follow easy ground but keep trending left to Leftist wall before you start up the ridge of TA. The small tree at the base marks the start of the climb. Go past the small tree and under the potential crack climb containing a precarious fridge sized block.

The climb starts towards the far left and heads up to the arete. There are several places where you will need to avoid potential loose rock, finding a mix of reasonable and good placements. This pitch will clean up well eventually but be careful as there is potential for pulling rocks onto your belayer. Work your way over the top to a double bolt anchor. Rap from here or continue up Oppression Obsession. A 70m rope will just reach the ground or you can rap down the ramp to the right to the first achors of oppression obsession.

One of the most unique climbs in Queensland. Climbs the separated pillar.

P1 20m - start up the pile of shattered blocks, to first gear (cam) at 6m. Spaced gear (cams) alternates after this. A Big Bro #5 (or two?) essential to protect crux - narrow blank chimney, which leads into a chamber & gear. Belay here is good.

P2 15m - Out LHS of chamber, onto face of pillar, up this to big ledge & TB.

P3 30M - Finish up the crack in the RH buttress above (easier climbing).

3m R of Raptor is an obvious crackline leading to some offwidths up high. Follow this crack up to a set of twin cracks, then up to below the large offwidth. Trend L avoiding the offwidths following the crack up towards the top. Finish up a generously protected slab to DBB on the L wall. Requires a sling to escape.

On the L side of the main cliff line is a striking orange and white pillar. This route goes up the far L side of it. Go up the body crack while practising your acceptance speech for the "Thrutch Masters" hall of fame.

Protection: Full rack: nuts, hexes, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad.

To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock:

East Face - East Face - short cut

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby

turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch.

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree

1. (45m 14) Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney thru to 2nd chimney & corner, up obvious crack (8-10m), or alternately, step out right onto face around pillar & up to large belay ledge.

2. (45m 13) A zigzaggy pitch: tough moves straight up, mount the ledge, then walk up the track, right, for about 10m & climb the left leaning ramp (grade 2-3), keep trending left, up the slope, to a pillar & prominent L-facing corner. Belay at the piton below the corner (or better, below the pillar where you are sheltered from possible rockfall.)

3. (45m 16) Up face for 4-5m to a small root (first gear), passing a small cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face. Up to ledge and into the prominent left facing corner, up corner 2-3m & step out right onto face & arete. From here up another 10m to belay ledge. Another piton here marks the belay for pitch 4.

4. (28m 13) Choose your own adventure up any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above

5. (45m 14) Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this. (NOTE: a nice finish to this route is to link the last 2 pitches using a 70m rope.)

When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully:

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route

Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb.

The left crack

Start as for Lost World corner. Up corner to below first roof. Traverse R under roof (#4 SLCD) to crux layback from horizontal to vertical crack. Up easy finger crack above to scree slope and TB.

Climb up face and then traverse left along breaks to the arete and up.

1. 16 19m

2. 14 19m Slightly right, then up.

Start: At the initials "TPM", four metres left of the big arete. Up the short crack left of the arete then continue up ledges to top.

Footnote: It is still possible to climb this, as it lies just outside of the Riverlife property.

A "neb" on a free standing pillar in front of DB. Nice climbing up the blade.

A pity it is so short.

Up the slab to bludge (crux) and finish up slab to option DBB (2 x Coeur Pulse) or natural boulder belay.

Requires 6 x Petzl Coeur Pulse 12mm (plus two for DBB).

Start at the "D" - 5m down the slope from YKROMD. Left leaning route. Tricky start to very low first bolt, then easy up to 5th RB at headwall, slab moves to 7th, big run-out from 7th to 8th RB = small gear up to 8th bolt on face, (Tricams & offsets are ideal in the pockety rock), then 2 more RBs bunched up to crux - exiting to chains. Shares chains with the previous 2 routes.

Really good, but one hell of a mission to find. The best way to get there is to rap in, although it can be quite hard to find. Short of that, blast up the vertical jungle in between Jockette and GATG for about 20m. Be sure to take your chainsaw and Agent Orange. From here, climb the beautiful crack that splits the orange face. Pass the tiny roof and follow the crack L to the top. A great little climb.

Up the obvious water runnel 2m right of Smile, 2m left of Brunhilde. Up gully at top, then out right. Belay from tree. Good gear all the way.

Some tricky placements and runouts, leader should be solid at the grade. Bridge up chimney to stance below small rooflet. Charge up crack to the left on fun pockets with reasonable gear. A short but unprotected traverse gains the TB above OAB.

Start from the boulder and step onto the well featured rock. Continue straight up on good holds to ledge. Rap off one of the trees or scramble down the left side.

1. 13 26m right to belay.

2. 16 22m left to impressive crack.

A bulging 5" crack. A hard startup the off-width, then easier up the body chimney.

Twin cracks starting 2m right of 'Spring' in front of small Ironbark. Committing and fun start, take small cams and nuts. Take left line up to ledge, past tree half way and continue on to fault line above to top.

The only way to go. Start up the corner of Illusion. Just as you start getting into the off-width/bodycrack, step L around a nose with a horizontal break in it. From there, finish as for BB. Watch out for rope drag, twin ropes could be useful.

The prominent crack/weakness that runs up the middle of the face. Good gear. Rap off tree at top.

As for ML, but instead of traversing to tree continue straight up on imaginary gear to poor trad belay at base of large overhang. Either downclimb left to TB or sacrifice gear and rap. Not recommended.

Starts 60m down past the Mr.Busy pillar. About 15m below right of Reflections.

This route has some poor rock and an abundance of loose blocks and detached flakes due constant north sun exposure. The crux at 30m on first pitch is protected by a single carrot bolt and the belay consists of 2 FH. The second belay is a rusty piton + gear in the crack behind.

The whole route can be rapped, but the tape on the anchors will need replacing. A better option is to exit to the tourist track = an easy scramble or a short bush-bash through thick scrub on the right will lead to the faint knob track.

You will need 2x60m ropes to rap this route. Can be lead on a single rope, if walking off.

Start in The left hand of the twin cracks.

1. 16 23m

2. 15 16m The left hand corner.

Start below slightly overhanging crack at the far left of the wall, close to the water. Climb horizontal breaks, through crack bulge, and onto slabs. Finish with a tricky move through cracked roof.

Natural belay.

Start up a few meters to the ledge then traverse left through jenga stacks and then straight up following cracks and small corner.

The only way to go. Continue up the brilliant hand crack flake above to the top. This was originally thought to be a separate route, started off the ledge. It is however a far better variant finish to DO, and a contender for one of the better low grade cracks on the cliff.

This is quite a nice little offering. Follows the thin crack line in the last shallow corner of the buttress, just before the gully. In worthy Maroon tradition, the gear gets thinner towards the top & more technical.

Start 5m R of 'Forsaken' on the black rock.

Poor rock with minimal protection.

Up water runnel (gear on left, small hexes and cams) then hard move on right side of overhang, continue onto chains of 'Yes Way'. bolts + trad.

Starts to the right of Swinging Giants at Feast for fools. Up the right seem to Insight patch for anchors.

Climb the large, obvious chimney: the first big Right facing corner from the Left.

Start by scrambling desperately up the gully over loose ground and into the chimney. The key to solid rock is to climb the first crack in the left wall to avoid bad rock near the start, then up on an incredible assortment of cracks & chimneys.

By avoiding the loose sections, this route offers great & mostly easy climbing throughout.

Starts at next large crack right of BU. Up wide crack, traverse left and pull over bulge (small wires). Up onto ledge, then right hand facing corner to top. Tree belay(s).

2m left of the vegetated crack. Through the middle of the small overhang at the ground then fairly straight up. A small (black or white) tri-cam was the first piece in some sneaky pockets otherwise your first piece might be quite high. Good nuts all the way to the top.

The obvious handcrack starting from the first ledge. Quite hard, and very easy to hit ledges if you should fall.

Start at the 'Present And Accounted For' rap anchor. Note: Currently not climbable after Darrin Carter stole the hangers in the 90s. Stay off until fixed protection is replaced. You can link this with PAAF to create the longest route on Ngungun. From the station, climb slab on L past two FH’s (chopped) to overhung wall. Place high blind #4 Rock and up wall past FH (chopped) to arrive at slab. Up and slightly R past two more FH’s (chopped) and big runouts to arrive at tree-lined ledge. Walk off. The first ascent was done ground-up with handrill at night with only headlamps to light the way!

Starts under the roof left of Joe's Wall at a short wide slot. Hop up onto the ledge and traverse right past two bolts to a trad belay below the centre of Joe's wall. The sandy rock is easily avoided.

Start at Googly Eyes and follow the natural seem traversing left and up diagonal. Do not use the rock behind/beside you. Step over bulge to anchors of GE / DP.

Even though it follows the natural seem, the route is a little bit contrived as you could easily scramble next to it near Scramble.

No description in guidebook

The crack corner system on the left end of wall.

Initialled - the offwidth crack in the corner, right of MI. Pleasant hand jambs up a nice corner.

2019 note: please try and avoid this route - there's a magnificent staghorn growing in the top crack.

Speed Buttress - MS & FI - top out.jpg

The twin cracks left of square overhanging arete. Up the crack through two bulges. Bridge up to ledge on right up to tree belay.

Boulder up the unprotected pillar just left of Chocolate Watchband

What a way to end the guide, with this pile of rubbish. Above and L of Leprechaun, at the R end of the ledge above Pibrock is this lonely little handcrack.

Good old-fashioned climbing. Marked 'CG'. Bridge up the corner until situated on top of the pillar. Step L and climb the juggy groove to a TB. Good protection.

Consider bringing some tat and some new mallions if you are planning on abseiling off. As of August 2013 the existing anchor tat is looking very sad and the mallions very rusted. A more permanent solution could be a chain around the pillar.

Corner crack 2 meters right of Tony's Crack. UP the ever changing hand and fist crack. Bring big gear or be ready to run it out. Please respect the tree, its part of the climb. Tree belay and rap.

Short crack above 'Rhyolite Fruit'.

Start 1m right of 'Sticky Fingers'. Climb this to its belay tree or chains. Sling this and traverse 2m R onto arete. Up left side of this on good holds up limited protection to pillar. Finish up the namesake flaring corner to tree belay. A somewhat contrived offering since the addition of 'Six Sided Hell'.

Easy start, up a short crack then right through the crux to top.

Up the middle of the detached block to slab. Up flake to top. Natural belay.

Come up the Devils Pantry Crack. Start off by layback then chimney until you can reach the Dolphin Pod crack. Once you have a hand in the crack don’t use the Devils Pantry wall anymore, pull up over little bulge and jam with hands and feet to the top. Short but sweet.

The grass filled corner crack, left of the cave. Up the corner, over the overhanging blocks, step Right and up to the top. Enjoyable varied climbing.

Start up the short, wide crack of YKROMD, then up the line of least resistance, avoiding the bolts to anchors on ledge.

Up smooth wall (SLCD’s) passing ledge (#4 SLCD) to top section with RB. Tricky mantle finish. Tree belay.

This novel route climbs the outside of 'Keyhole' 's leaning pillar. Access by 'Bloodsucker' 's first pitch or rapping in from 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite' 's chains. Belay on R of pillar's base. Scramble up right to clip first FH, but route is best started directly from the base of the pillar. Balancy start passing 2 FH's, then natural gear to top. Scramble up 3m to belay at base of 'Pocket Full Of Kryptonite'.

Some old school Trad done in the modern day!

1. 30m (16) Was originally bolted on lead. Pass 4 ring bolts, then some runouts and gear to chains (Medium to large nuts/cams).

2. 22m (13) Was originally bolted on lead. Be wary of loose flake below last bolt. 4 ring bolts to chains.

3. -m (-) project.

Left diagonal crack. Natural belay.

Start: Just Left of Grass Lane.

Direct and varied jambing, but watch the touchy block.

Start: about 15m Left of the corner to the Tiger Face, in a shallow groove, below a nice corner at the top.

1. 40m 16 Up corner from tree, move to Right on the rib.

2. 20m Up rib face to delightful corner and top-out.

This route starts at ground level.

1. 56m. Ten metres up you’ll know you’re on route if you s handful of the finest talcum powder. Run up through the mank with a bit of wandery route-finding to beautiful belay ledge and medium size tree to belay from.

2. 30m. Keep heading up to finish beside a tree and dodgy looking.

Cement corner R of 'Ummaguma's Layback'.

Marked 'ST'. A contrived hand crack which becomes very vegetated. Not great.

Starts at SP belay chains. Step across the void and continue R to the chains of DB.

The seam on downhill side of big tree on descent track. Puke.

A bold lead! The first 8m is unprotected until you get established in the groove/crack follow the groove/crack until it slabs out and traverse left a few meters to Blood Donations Bolt Belay.

Inside corner, just Left of Dutch Courage. The 2nd of 2 hand-cracks in this little corner alcove.

Start: at the far Right corner, where the cliff becomes The Tiger Face, below a cleanish grey pillar with an offwidth crack at the top.

1. 40m 16 Up pillar and into shallow corner on the left.

2. 20m Up through pleasant roof to offwidth crack, up this to top.

Marked 'CR'. Up the broken wall with good protection to a small corner. Climb this past a chockstone and onto a ledge. Bridge up the hard chimney on the L and surmount the overhang to another stance. Finish up the twin cracks to a tree belay.

The same start as "North Face" but slightly harder for those who do not know how to crack climb and with a direct finish. Hand jam crack top the top. Has some pro at the top unlike "NF"; however it is vegetated.

Head up the face huging the overhangs. At the last overhangtop out to the right