Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
7b+ | ★★★ Spartacus
A popular island-classic. A steep crux on tufas, then another crux on smooth pockets. Equip: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★ Sevasti
A tough and steep boulder on small tufas above the initial, juggy stalactites. Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Konstantinos Lambadarios, 2004 | 18m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Lapinerie
A big move to get to the chain. | 20m | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufa King Pumped
Two unusual cruxes and a hard clip make many climbers Tufa King Pumped to succeed. Equip: Neil Gresham, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Höllenfahrt
Equip: Z.Heizmann, 1991 Mant: Oli, Sep 2019 | 20m, 10 | Basler Jura | ||
FB:6C | ★★★ La Voie Michaud
Another classic of the sector. From the starting holds one long move to the top slots. Not necessarily easier for the tall ones. | 4m | Fontainebleau | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Mandragora
| 35m | Siurana | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Alfredo, Alfredo
Easyish climbing leads to a technical demanding crux and some power moves after, save some power for the end. Equip: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
9- | ★★★ Dumbo
PAL: Richard Rieff, 2000 | 15m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b | ★★★ Gladiator
Tough boulder on slippery holds at the start. Another small crux to exit from the tufas. Being quite a popular route, footholds have become very polished. Equip: D. Winkler, J.-B. Winkler & Michel Piola, 2002 | 25m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Daphne
Equip: Daphne Bessone, Flaviano Bessone & Adele Gamba, 2001 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Scared Spirit
Mant: 2020 | 26m, 12 | Kipoi | ||
7b | ★★★ Lucky Strike
A crux right at the start leads to sustained tufa climbing and a finish on good but spaced jugs. Equip: Karsten Oelze, 1999 | 20m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Bonzai
Equip: 2005 | 15m | Kipoi | ||
{FB} 6C | ★★★ U-Boot | 10m | Magic Wood | ||
9- | ★★★ Beavis & Butthead
PA: G. Holwill, 1994 | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b | ★★★ Pomponidoux
A great tufa line with a tough corner and arête system. Brownish rock and smooth footholds. Equip: François "Pompon" Poncet & Claude Idoux, 2010 | 30m, 13 | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bistec De Biceps
| 15m, 5 | Siurana | ||
7b | ★★★ Infernale
A long and rather easy intro on big holds, a first thin crux to a rest, some traversing moves and several long reaches/ dynos. Most seem to agree on 7a+ morpho. PA: Jean-Marc Wagner, 1992 | 25m, 12 | Berdorf | ||
FB:6C+ | ★★★ Cortomaltèse
| Fontainebleau | |||
7b | ★★★ Diet Dope
Equip: Stamatis Konstatakopoulos, 2008 | 25m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7b | ★★★ Bonobo | 22m | Leonidio | ||
7b | ★★★ Super Mickey
Some big pockets, still pumpy though and a tricky finale. | 23m, 10 | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★ Alcinoo
An impressive overhang at the top of the vertical pillar. Bouldery crux! Equip: Andrea di Bari & team, 1997 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
9- | ★★★ Tanz der Vampire
PA: Stefan Löw, 1989 | 15m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b | ★★★ Lubna
Beautiful line. An easier first half leads up to an open chimney with spaced but good pockets and a thin technical crux. Save some energy for the finish. Equip: N. Accame & M. Brichetto, 1991 | 25m, 10 | Finale Ligure | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Tufantastic
An endurance focused tufa route with a more adventurous feeling. A lot less popular than other routes here. Shares the start with the popular Trela and Punto Caramelo, then follows the middle line of bolts. [70m rope ok if tied off.] Equip: 2007 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
9- | ★★★ Maßarbeit
| 19m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Daños colaterales (L1)
| 30m, 13 | Chulilla | ||
7b | ★★ Omiros
Equip: Yiannis Torelli, 1998 | 22m | Kalymnos | ||
9- | ★★★ Mambo Cavallero
Pumpy overhang to crux at little roof. PAL: Thomas Hess, 1993 | 18m, 7 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Mind Boggle
A dynamic crux at the start leads to a balancy flowstone wall, a rest and finally the overhanging wall full of tufas. More bolt-lines than shown in the guidebook! At the rest/juggy ledge, follow the rightmost line of glue-in bolts. Equip: Rich Prohaska, 2002 | 30m, 16 | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Big Ben
Same start as 'Barbar', but instead of going left, keep going straight up | 17m, 7 | Paschga | ||
{FR} 7b+ | ★★ Stahlfinger
PAL: Jenny Kurt, 1994 | 13m | Walgau | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Inti Raymi
Equip: George Kopalides, Christos Daniil & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2007 | 35m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Cent Patates
A beautifully situated route. | 40m, 13 | Céüse | ||
7a+/b | ★★★ El catador de sake
| 35m, 14 | Chulilla | ||
9- | ★★★ Sautanz
PAL: Kurt Albert †, 1981 PAL: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 20m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Morgan
Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin, Antonin Cherbonnier & Romain Cabessut, 2004 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
9- | ★★ Sledgehammer
PA: H. Gräf, 1995 | 15m, 5 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b | ★★★ Elevando los sentimientos | 20m, 9 | San Martín De Valdeiglesias | ||
7b | ★★ Fire Wall
Equip: Günter Hommel, 2006 | 25m, 10 | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Cantalobos
| 25m | Chulilla | ||
FB:6C | ★★ La Letrina | 4m | Albarracín | ||
7a+/b | Tallado ★★ Roro
Face on small but good holds leads to a reachy crux over the bulge. Easier upper part with good jugs. Equip: Remy & partners, 2017 | 20m, 9 | Leonidio | ||
7b+ | ★★★ San Jones Pecos
Classic - bouldery finish. | 25m | Céüse | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Dirlanda
Upgraded 2015 after losing a hold in the crux. Equip: Simon Montmory & Aris Theodoropoulos, 2010 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Los Franceses
| 35m | Chulilla | ||
9- | ★★ Free
PA: German Lotzer | 25m | Ardetzenberg | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Blocage Violent
Popular. Tough for the grade. | 28m | Céüse | ||
7b | ★★ Petitona
Equip: Toni Albero, 1998 | 25m, 9 | Siurana | ||
9 | ★★★ Chasin' the Trane
Greenpointed by Heiko Queitsch in 2011. PAL: John Bachar, 1981 PAL: Wolfgang Güllich †, 1981 | 25m, 6 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b | ★★★ Snake Eye | 30m | Ogliastra | ||
7b | ★★ Amphora
Equip: Patrick Raspo, 2001 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Lulu in the Sky
Branches off left out of the orange dihedral of Aeolia onto a thin flowstone wall that leads to a tufa forest. No real hard moves but it may feel like three 7a's in a row without much rest. Originally graded 7a+, upgraded in the 2023 guidebook. 70m rope ok. Equip: Marco Troussier, 2005 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★ Themelina
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Konstantinos Lambadarios, 2004 | 18m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ El Prado Del Rey
| 30m, 11 | Siurana | ||
7b | ★★★ Elizabeth
Equip: Zio Tibia, 2009 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
{FB} 6C | ★★ Super Bosna | 2m | Magic Wood | ||
7b | ★★ Kulturistika
Equip: Mira Šrůtek & Fera Kočiš, 2008 | 18m, 7 | Kalymnos | ||
{FB} 6C | ★★ Beach arête | 6m | Magic Wood | ||
9- | ★★ Zerstörte Illusion
| 35m, 9 | Löbejün | ||
7b | ★★★ Armata Sikati
Continuously interesting climbing on picture-perfect Kaly-style rock. Good rests and a crux on tufa pipes. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Arnaud Catzeflis, 2006 | 35m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ La paz del borrego
| 38m, 16 | Chulilla | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Pince Sans Rire
| 30m | Rodellar | ||
7b+ | ★★ Gore Tex
Same start as 'Barbar', but instead going left, go slightly to the right at the beginning | 20m, 8 | Paschga | ||
7b | ★★★ Dale Duro Negro
| 32m, 16 | Chulilla | ||
FB:6C | ★★ Confusion | 3m | Albarracín | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Maria Ponte el Arnes
| 35m | Rodellar | ||
7b | ★★★ Los animáculos de la placa
| 37m | Chulilla | ||
7b | ★★ 0.07 Seconds
Equip: Urs Odermatt & Peter Keller, Mayo 2022 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Tremendos en Telendos
Equip: Bernat Puig & David Brasco, 2005 | 28m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+/c | ★★★ aloof | 20m, 9 | Meliggoi | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Chien Jaune
A steep, bouldery intro, then a technical wall on sharp but pleasant rock. Two holds at the start are often wet. Equip: Claude Idoux & Luca Salsotto, 2010 | 35m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ I'd Even Grow a Moustache for You Ext.
Equip: Bernd Schlögl, 2017 | 42m, 18 | Leonidio | ||
7b | ★★★ Zorba le Gros
Equip: Philippe Collet, 2005 | 25m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★ El Menjapindula
| 30m | Siurana | ||
9- | ★★ Zugabe
| 18m | Frankenjura Nord | ||
7b+ | ★★ Lagneia Direct
Equip: 2005 | 15m, 6 | Kipoi | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Nirvana
Equip: Karsten Oelze, 2000 | 15m | Kalymnos | ||
7b | ★★★ Dietetic Line
Great climbing and low in the grade. | 30m | Céüse | ||
{FB} 6C | ★★★ Jenny | 4m | Magic Wood | ||
7b | ★★ Oceano L1
| 15m, 7 | Sella | ||
7b | ★★ Trufa
Equip: Athenian Mountain Club, 2014 | 20m, 10 | Leonidio | ||
7b | ★★★ La silla eléctrica
7a+/b german guidebook | 25m | Tenerife | ||
7b | ★★★ Patroclos Reborn
Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos, George Kopalides & L Pouzadoux, 2008 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Dr. Tabu
| 35m | Magletsch | ||
FB:6C+/7A | ★★★ Le Toit du Cul de Chien
to the left of the crack of La Nano (red n°6). Update : chipped hold in the end of 2006... | Fontainebleau | |||
7b+ | ★★★ Super Carpe Diem
Extension to 'Carpe Diem'. Equip: Laurent Triay, Géraud Fanguin & Antonin Cherbonnier, 2004 | 40m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Route 69
Equip: François Poncet & Claude Idoux, 2010 | 30m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Bibendum
Use the first quickdraw as a hold. | 35m | Céüse | ||
FB:6C | ★★ SW Klassik
PA: Scholz, 2003 | 5m | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
9- | ★★ Rapunzel
Left of 'Lorünser Verschneidung' | 20m, 9 | Walgau | ||
FB:6C | ★★★ La Lágrima
Balancy technical face moves on a dead vertical/ slightly overhanging boulder. #standstart #topout | 5m | Albarracín | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Papagora
| 33m, 12 | Siurana | ||
7b | ★★★ Roky Erickson
Great line on big but spaced holds. Powerful and steep. Equip: 2019 | 20m, 8 | Leonidio | ||
NWG:8 | ★★★ Susis Sovepose
PA: Per Hustad, 1987 | 15m | Drammen | ||
7b | ★★★ Animula vagula blandula
| 34m, 16 | Chulilla | ||
7b | ★★ Meltemi
Equip: Andrea Minneto & Silvia Minneto, 1999 | 20m | Kalymnos | ||
7b+ | ★★★ Ghost Rider
Pumpy and engaging tufa and mono-tufa action to the juggy rooflet and a very thin and beta-intensive final headwall. Equip: Aris Theodoropoulos & Simon Montmory, 2010 | 38m | Kalymnos |