Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Calidad | Escalador | |||
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Mar 2.º Abr 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Bergmeister | |||||||
V6 | ★★★ Berghain | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
4 repeats in one session to nail it
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Sáb 9.º Mar 2024 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Kilimwana hill / Bowling rock | |||||||
6a ~6a+ | ★★ Arobaini - con Hamish | 120m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
First and second pitches definitely hardest, I’d say 6a+ at least. Very thin but you can trust the friction! Pretty clean now thanks to Sam Mwangi! Nice bolting job climbingfish and Emmanuel F! We had to rest on first two pitches (we aren’t sport climbers 😂) and then Hamish linked the last two much more easily.
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Lun 5.º Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area The Ring | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Precious | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
fun and easy repeat
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Lun 5.º Feb 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Tiger Shark | |||||||
V2 | ★ The Shallows | ||||||
fun repeat. Best I've felt on it
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Dom 21.º En 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
4b | ★ Sleazy Greasy | 15m, 3 | |||||
Setup a top rope for the kids
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Sáb 20.º En 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders The Blade of Damocles | |||||||
V4 | El Machete | ||||||
FA
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Sáb 6.º En 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
A nice tricky start on the slab but gets really good going further up past bolt 1. Really enjoyed it.
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5a | ★★ Heebie Jeebies | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Excellent flow in climbing. Really good 5a. No worries about poop on his route.
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4b | ★ Mambo Mamba | ||||||
Really good sequence
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4b | ★ Supu ya kuku | Medio | |||||
For an easy and fun day, this is a nice warm up. But there is too much baboon poop on every hold! 😀
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Jue 4.º En 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Tower | |||||||
S | ★★ The Replacement | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Good views during the Climb. Decent holds on the basalt rock.
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Jue 4.º En 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
S | ★★ Guillotine Groove | 16m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Really good and fun line.
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Jue 4.º En 2024 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Tower | |||||||
VS | ★★ West Rib Variation | 40m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Such an amazing, easy, and fun climb! As a trad beginner, I really enjoyed it for my trad induction.
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En 2024 - Lukenya | |||||||
Archway | |||||||
VS 5a | ★★ Boiler Plate | 25m, 1 | |||||
had to rescue Gabe on the route beside
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Vie 10.º Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Slabburu | |||||||
V1 | Moran therapy | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★★ Thunderthighs | ||||||
FA
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V2 | ★ Kupe Mweupe | ||||||
FA
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Vie 10.º Nov 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Esoterica | |||||||
V3 | Esoteric | ||||||
FA
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Dom 29.º Oct 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Hakuna Matata - con Peter Naituli | 16m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Gear is good. Project crux with 3x purple.
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Sáb 28.º Oct 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
VS | ★ Bouboulinas Street - con Forest | 13m | Medio | ||||
First route of Forest's birthday project. We did 30 routes that day.
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Vie 27.º Oct 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Golf Club - con Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ||||||
also added a sit-start to this that solidifies it as 3 stars. Can start with small compression underclings and move up to original start jug.
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Mié 2.º Ag 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Tortue | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Leonardo - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
best line on the boulder... heady up there!
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Sáb 29.º Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Egyptian Slab boulder | |||||||
V3 ~V2 | ★★ Sarcophagus | 8m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
so good
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Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Rocket Man | |||||||
V3 | ★★★ Not the man they think I am - con Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | 6m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Lukenya top 10!
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Jue 27.º Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning The Wailing Wall | |||||||
V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - con Schunk, Ian Thorpe | Medio | |||||
ouch
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V4 ~V5 | That tree has got to go - con Ian Thorpe, Joel M, kash ramli | ★ Buena | |||||
fun 2-move board problem!
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Mié 19.º Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Swiss Army Knife | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Big knife - con Joel M, kash ramli | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
very cool stand through the undercling move
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Mar 18.º Jul 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Crashpad Slide Boulder | |||||||
V6 Fácil | ★★★ Crashpad Slide - con Schunk | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
nice to get this after projecting years ago
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Mar 27.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Nemesis Area Boulders Weakness Boulder | |||||||
V4 Duro | ★★ Line of Weakness | ||||||
In the running for Lukenya's hardest V4... I think 4 or 5 is fair
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Sáb 24.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Dump Truck | |||||||
V4 Duro | ★ Lot Lizard | ★ Buena | |||||
definitely took me the longest of the 3 on this boulder
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V5 | ★★★ Dump Truck | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Ian Thorpe said it was named after me so I guess I had to go send
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Jue 22.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6b | ★★ Faithless | 12m | ★ Buena | ||||
kinda forced between two routes, but the holds are there for some nice moves if you do force it
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Mar 20.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Plains Area Leopard Cave | |||||||
V1 ~V1 | ★★ Bone Hole - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First move seems to pull out of V0 range, but fun climb with some easy but exciting moves
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Dom 18.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Campsite Area Boulders Night Crawler | |||||||
V6 | ★★ Night Crawler | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Spicy mantling over the top is definitely one of the hardest moves I've ever done
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Mié 14.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Panic Mechanic - con Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
a perfect boulder problem
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Dom 11.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror - con Melalite | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
First pitch of Promenade/Pier and second pitch of Arthur's Horror
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Sáb 10.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
7a | ★★ Lost Luggage | 7 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Had a blast projecting this... stoked for the send!
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Jue 8.º Jun 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - con Schunk, Ian Thorpe | ||||||
First ascent
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V3 | ★★ The Lukenya Highballing Society - con Ian Thorpe, Peter Naituli | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
full extension crimpy lock offs, the best line of the 3 here
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Lun 17.º Abr 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Left end | |||||||
VS ~HVS | ★★ The Amazing Journey - con Alison Polton-Simon | 120m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Fun and exciting route on Main Wall featuring a tension traverse around a bulge using a cordalette (thanks Fish!) Route description says 'easiest way up Main Wall' but I just want to caution climbers who are new to Hells Gate, that it should not be taken lightly. First pitch is tricky, and the route is wandering - so route finding could be challenging if you don't do your research. Otherwise, fun and fairly well protected!
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Dom 9.º Abr 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Central wall | |||||||
VS | ★★ Stiletto - con Emilie | 120m | |||||
After 3rd belay station consider straight move.
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Mié 22.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Dinner plate Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Knife - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
The movement isn't the greatest but it's such a beautiful boulder
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Mié 22.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Sleepy hollow | |||||||
V3 | ★ Right hand squeeze - con Ian Thorpe | ★ Buena | |||||
still reachy, but a lot more enjoyable on this side
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V2 | ★ Left hand squeeze - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Yeah... I'm the reason it says it's harder if you're short. Really tough session on this.
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Mié 22.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Logger's Boulder | |||||||
V3 | ★★ I'm a lumberjack and I'm okay - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
best on the boulder
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Mié 8.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Clam | |||||||
V2 | ★ Clammy traverse - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
some scootin' and some more scootin'
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V4 | ★★★ In vino veritas - con Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
a nice gym dyno with a one hand catch... fun!
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Mié 8.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Midday sun jungle | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Kung Pao Chicken - con Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
great climb right at the highball limit
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Mié 8.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Gremlins | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Mogwai - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
fun moves
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Mar 7.º Mar 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Fischer's Cliff | |||||||
5.11c | ★★★ Hakuna Matata | 16m | |||||
Tape left hand pinky next time. Removed large loose block at crux. Still goes at same grade likely.
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Sáb 4.º Mar 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Jacob's Ladder | |||||||
VD | Joseph - con Yan-Eric Douvier | 26m | |||||
VD? Who put letters in the V-Scale?
But seriously, had a great time at the trad day. Asante Yan-Eric Douvier for the coaching! |
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Sáb 25.º Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Perched on a Royal Head - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
inside flag in the wild
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V3 | ★★ I'm warm, can I come down now? - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Feels more exposed than the direct line. Good highball!
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V1 | ★ Sit-start Warm-up - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
Super cool start holds
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V2 | ★ Digging for Gold - con Ian Thorpe | ||||||
The kind of problem that goes from "this is stupid" to "that was awesome" real quick
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Dom 12.º Feb 2023 - Ndeiya | |||||||
Central Crag | |||||||
VD | ★★★ Morning Shade | 44m | Basura | ||||
Rock quality is highly dubious and route description is a bit unclear. I got off route and runout on p3 or p4, barely weighted a tiny crimp and it broke off in my hand and I fell 9m onto a tree and broke my femur. Rescue was quite an ordeal.
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Mié 8.º Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V4 | ★★★ Kumbatia watoto wako - con Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Amazing line! An instant favorite
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Dom 5.º Feb 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
repeat as warmup. Felt harder than the onsight for some reason!
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Sent it this time. Didn’t even feel desperate! Felt pretty smooth
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Repeat. Felt very smooth
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6c+ | ★★★ Twisted Sisters | 25m, 6 | |||||
Bolt to bolt to get the beta
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Dom 29.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Crème Brûlée | ||||||
3 moves but they're great!
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Dom 29.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower The grumpy evangelist | |||||||
V3 | ★ Marco | ||||||
I'm taking the 2 because I sent it before the start hold broke... but it is probably also a 3 now
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Dom 29.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★★ As Good as it Gets | 25m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Good warmup as not too cruxy.
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6b | ★★★ Nemesis | 22m, 5 | ★ Buena | ||||
Went off route on the first go and got too pumped. Lowered, rested, and got it clean second go.
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Dom 29.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
S 4a | ★★ Arthur's Horror | 60m | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Very fun. A bit runout in places so probably not an ideal one for a beginning leader.
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Dom 29.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Upper Cliffs | |||||||
VS 4c | ★★ Frogman | 22m | ★ Buena | ||||
Short but nice. Good for someone learning to jam.
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Dom 22.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
5b | ★ Bliss of Nemesis | 15m, 5 | Medio | ||||
good warmup
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6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream | 22m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
The start felt hard for the grade but the rest is steady.
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6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★ Buena | ||||
Somewhat tricky start for the grade but the rest felt bang-on 6a.
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6b+ | ★★ Turbulence | 25m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
Pumped out at the lip of the overhang.
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Dom 22.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
S ~HS | ★ Scarab | 23m | |||||
Not the hardest climbing but hard to protect the start.
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E3 5c ~E3 ~5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word | 20m, 1 | |||||
Great addition to the crag and Lukenya - lovely climbing.
Would say E3 5c as after scoping it out I found the gear to be pretty bomber and evenly spaced.
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Sáb 21.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Tsunami | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Sugar rush | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
One of the best of the grade for Lukenya... I think I only put it behind Chickenhead.
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Dom 15.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E2 5b | ★★ Los Penitentes | 2 | ★ Buena | ||||
Hard crux, where I fell. Sadly though the interest is not as sustained as at the other E2.
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S ~VS | ★★★ Papyrus | 22m | ★ Buena | ||||
Definitely felt like solid VS, though admittedly it was my first trad lead in nine months.
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HVS 5a ~VS | ★ Death of Disco | 25m | Ni te molestes | ||||
Had to take at the bolt because the holds were covered in hyrax feces. Disgusting to clean without a brush. Otherwise felt very soft for the grade.
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Sáb 14.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Cocktail Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ On the Rocks | ||||||
tree is pretty in the way now but still climbable
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Sáb 14.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Perched Boulder | |||||||
V2 | ★ Sit-start Pull Cross | ||||||
cool side pull/pinch hold
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V2 | ★ Slippery feet | ||||||
Appropriately named... cool first move
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Sáb 14.º En 2023 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Watertower Jenga | |||||||
V2 | ★★ Arete | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
Not sure how it was originally done, but I'll suggest this:
Sit-start low on arete, go out wide for a couple cool compression bumps that take you back to the top corner of the arete, needing to control a barn door before the top out. Cool line! |
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Vie 13.º En 2023 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Right end | |||||||
VS ~HVS | ★★ The Devil Drives - con Dylan | 80m | |||||
After the Two rusty Pegs run out maybe bolt in future.
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Mar 27.º Dic 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Tickfest | |||||||
V1 Duro | ★ Tickle my fancy - con Tyson | ★ Buena | |||||
technical! took a few repeats before V1 started to make sense
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Mié 2.º Nov 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - con Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
What a route. Engaging moves without the rope.
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Sáb 29.º Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Egyptian | |||||||
E5 6a E3 5c | ★★★ Take is not a safe word - con Gabriel Jackson | 20m, 1 | ★★★ Megaclásica | ||||
Great climb. Some of the best moves on Egyptian and some of the best moves I've done at Lukenya.
Current grade (French 6c) seems fair for technical difficulty though believe E3 is a better description for seriousness. Protection is fairly decent on good rock and this combination with the moves feels more in line with other E3's in the country. Highly recommend this route. |
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Lun 17.º Oct 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Far Ridge Big Fig Lightning Finger mash | |||||||
V4 | ★★ Fucking my fingers - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
loved these holds. Pro tip: don't fall in the bush
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Lun 26.º Sep 2022 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Right end | |||||||
16 VS | ★★ The Devil Drives | 80m | ★ Buena | ||||
The first two pitches are fantastic.
The third pitch is stupid and requires a bolt below the peg runner halfway up. You move off a platform and up for 10m of blank, slippery climbing that is 100% blank in terms of protection. If you slip there you are going to deck on the platform below. It isn't hard climbing but its unnecessarily risky. Once you move past that peg runner then you are into the usual HG rubbish at the top which is fine. |
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Lun 26.º Sep 2022 - Hell's Gate | |||||||
Main Wall Central wall | |||||||
E1 | ★★★ Olympian | 190m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Incredible climb.
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Dom 11.º Sep 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Main Face | |||||||
E2 6a | ★★ The Joker — 2 intentos - con Quinn Miller | 60m, 2 | Basura | ||||
There is a loose bolt at the top-totally put me off!
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Sáb 20.º Ag 2022 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Kilimwana hill / Bowling rock | |||||||
6a |
★★ Arobaini
1
6a
35m
2
30m
3
20m
4
30m
| 120m | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Super fun day climbing this route. Consistent slab climbing. Third pitch is perhaps the most tricky one. Top anchor is on the very far right of the last bolt. Amazing view at the top.
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Vie 19.º Ag 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders The Crown | |||||||
V3 | ★★ Jack | ||||||
partially campused
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V3 | ★★★ The Joker | ||||||
Fully campused
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Sáb 6.º Ag 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a | ★★ Leap of Faith | 22m, 6 | ★★ Muy buena | ||||
nice route with a tricky start
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Dom 31.º Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Nemesis | |||||||
6a+ | ★★ Peaches and Cream - con Ian Thorpe | 22m, 6 | |||||
A sweet solo. Went down in swift fashion after soloing 9 pitches at baboon cliff. From here, we put up some more boulders near baboon cliff and two new highballs on dinosaur egg. What a day!
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Dom 31.º Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Baboon Cliff | |||||||
5b | ★★ Dapper Flapper | 5 | ★★★ Clásico | ||||
Part of the solo circuit on this day.
The circuit involved 5 routes with descent 4 times made on 'Nyani Gani' by solo downclimbing |
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4c | ★★ Nyani gani? | ★★★ Clásico | |||||
Used this route to freesolo downclimb from the top of the cliff at the end of each lap of each route. Probably downclimbed it four or five times in a very short span of time. Hooray.
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Dom 31.º Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Dinosaur Egg | |||||||
V2 | Pr.Asc. ★★ Dr. Danger - con Ian Thorpe | ★★ Muy buena | |||||
A good mental warmup once the wait a bit bushes were cleared.
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V4 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ Panic Mechanic - con Ian Thorpe | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
One of the very best boulder problems I've ever climbed and among the most classic first ascents I've established. An iconic line up an iconic piece of rock.
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Sáb 2.º Jul 2022 - Lukenya | |||||||
Bouldering in Lukenya Picnic tree Boulders Hukumu | |||||||
V5 | Pr.Asc. ★★★ The People vs. The Ololokwe Gold Club | ★★★ Megaclásica | |||||
Fun route and fun name
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Lun 30.º Mayo 2022 - Ma-Voloni | |||||||
Ikuyu Inene | |||||||
5.8 | ★★ Tupande Pamoja | 140m | ★ Buena | ||||
Good fun route. Needs 9 quickdraws. LOTS of loose stuff. Would not recommend following another party, as you might die. Also be careful not to kill your 2nd. Summit block that people may have been belaying off is unstable - vibrates when jumped on - would not recommend belaying off it.
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