Vías en Coromandel Peninsula

Excellent climbing up the face following the positive edges heading diagonally right to an entertaining 19 Crimpy climb as it goes straight up again. From the anchors you can join the grade 16 for 10m of fun climbing (4 bolts) for a full height adventure. Note; if heading to the top the abseil is 38m to the ground, or rap to the top of no fly zone for a 25m rap.

Probably the best route at the crag. Shares the start and first bolt with A Roof Too Far, then climbs diagonally up to the left. A few balancey moves at the top of the face get you to a rest before you take on the roof. A couple of big, fun moves gets you through the roof, a few more meters gets you to the anchor. Fantastic climbing.

P1: Start in the corner and trend right up to a ledge

P2: Continues up to another ledge.

Straight up the face to a ledge. Use this route to gain access to the following three routes.

Straight up the blunt arete. Move left near the top, then rightwards up the groove to the anchor.

P1: Up the face. Some holds hard to find. Keep moving to avoid the pump.

P1: Climb the obvious groove to the left of the red arete. Holds can be tough to find and there's a real crux with some quality bridging. First anchor is shared with Red Line.

P2: Head right to the first bolt (which is shared with Red Line), then follow the bolts up. Fun climbing.

P3: A truly alpine experience, high and airy. You could bring some larger hexes (~10/11) or rockcentrics (~9) to prevent larger falls on the spaced bolts at the top. Watch for loose rocks!

Decent: The climb tends to the right all the way up, so make sure you come back that way on descent or you end up hanging in mid air.

Brilliant fun climbing, mainly a reasonable 19 until the overhang then a few bigger pulls through some jugs to some smaller holds with some great moves. An easy tick for the grade, or super hard if you get the moves wrong. The abseil is 38m, a 70m rope might get you down on stretch, or abseil left to the anchors on No Fly Zone

P1: Up the left face of the corner at the far left of the crag. To a small ledge.

P2: Head left around a small arete, up through interesting climbing to a large ledge.

Can be climbed as one long pitch, but be sure to minimise rope drag. Abseil down the line of Bolt Clinic or JAFA Cake.

Up the groove then left to the anchor of Buckle.

Shares the start with Climba Sutra. Straight up the face to the left side of the roof. You can clip the crux bolt from good sidepulls/underclings, then tackle the crux, moving right onto the small yellow face, then up on large pockets. After a few meters, the climbing eases off. Keep going up and right to the anchor.

P1: As for Midnight Lichening.

P2: From the anchor, step right and climb up the groove. Exciting moves before easing off for the middle section. Overhang to finish with fun, powerful moves (or move right for an easier variation). Shares an anchor with P2 of Bolt Clinic.

P3: Trad with plenty of greenery.

The first two pitches can be climbed as one, but be careful of rope drag.

Decent: From top of P2, easiest to rap straight down the line of Bolt Clinic.

Alternative finish to Age Concern. Traverses up and right to finish at Au Revoir's anchor.

Around the Left from the Bivvy cave, follow the thin path alongside the rock that will take you up to the belay ledge. Slightly awkward offwidth start leads to fantastic climbing. Looking through the offwidth you can see the bivvy cave and stipaccio.

P1: Start on Première, then move right for the 2nd and 3rd bolts. Cross the ine of 100 Buck. Climb up a groove above the 4th bolt.

P2: There are three routes continuing from this anchor. Take the middle one, up a red groove.

P1: Start on the Rata covered ledge, moving leftwards. Sustained climbing that weaves left and right. Anchor is just to the left of a ledge (where the anchor of Power of Persuasion is located).

P2: Up left through a groove, then heads to the right, crossing the line of Power of Persuasion (be careful to stay on the correct line) then up through a corner to the right of the small roof system. The anchor is just below the top of the crag.

You can continue up and to the left to the anchor of Power of Persuasion and admire the fantastic 360° view from the top of the crag.

Start to the right of the runnel, a few tricky slab moves lead to a rooflet, pull through the roof then the climbing eases off the closer you get to the anchors.

Just right of "Blue" inside the cave. Start up between the columns and then move onto the face for some nice juggy climbing.

From the belay of Buckle traverse left then up through the overhanging face. Easier climbing to the anchor. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

P1: Start as for JAFA Cake, then move left at the 3rd bolt, up through the overhang (crux). Consider extending the next few bolts.

P2: Shares an anchor with Midnight Summer Dream.

Used to be called 'Red Wall Super Direct' until being freed of its aid point. Is the best start to 'Shiny Goblins'.

Start up the slabs broken by 2 small overhangs (cruxes). Then up the short headwall to a chain belay on Lover's ledge. This was the first route at Tairua and was climbed ground up on the first reccie to the crag. It has since been bolted in order to create a friendly access route.

P1: Starts a few meters right of JAFA Cake. The first half wanders from right to left and back again, mostly on crimps with a few jugs and side pulls. It then eases off for the last few bolts to the anchor.

P2: Shares the last 3 bolts and anchor with JAFA Cake.

P1: Starts up and to the left across the small cave. Up the face and to the belay ledge of Climba Sutra, then left up the arete.

P2: Crosses the line of Demons of Bosh then up through the roof. Some big moves then easy climbing to the top of the crag. Anchor is on top of the rock, with great views.

P1: Up the face and trends right out to the arete. Up on to a ledge where you'll find an anchor.

P2: Head straight up from the anchor before trending right for a 17 variant. Or go right from the anchor, then up the white face for the 21 variant. Optional belay where the two variants meet, otherwise keep going up and then right to the next ledge.

P3: A bit runout and exposed in places, but fun climbing. Gets up nice and high for a fantastic view. Climbs up through a groove to a crazy thin oversized handle feature. Watch for loose rocks.

Start at the base of the slab left of the runnel, mantel onto the slab then attack the overhang. Good holds lead to a powerful finish.

Cleaning beta: start lowering and grab the last quickdraw, climb back up, and flick the rope over to right before cleaning the remaining gear.

Climb the featured rock 2m left of the direct start to Mad Carew. Turn the overlap on the left and follow good holds on the slab to the rings.

P1: Fun climbing up the red streak on good holds.

P2: Move right. Shares first bolt with P2 of Pass The Buck. Keep going right, then up the slightly overhanging face and up on to the ledge above to the anchor.

For some bonus fun, link it into P2 of Bucking Fumblies by continuing on from the anchor up and right up the ramp. Then can do P3 of Bucking Fumblies for a fantastic view.

One of the North Islands best 22's. Do it as one pitch with 'That summer'(need a 70m rope). Nearing the top of the cliff carry on up the corner (medium cams/large wires) for the original finish or step left (bolt) and climb the arête for a fully sport route.

More fixed ropes lead up and left from 'Five Legged Goat'. 'El pollo loco' starts on a small ledge with two chains.

1. (45m) Clip the two sets of chains and climb the tree, then move right. Two more bolts will bring you to a DBC. Either belay here to reduce drag or continue traversing right before heading up. ~16 bolts if you opt to do it in one pitch.

2. Take an excursion to the right and back left after the 4th bolt. Then up into the chicken heads and a slab.

3. A steep section followed by slab.

Descent: A 60m rope will suffice. There is a rappel anchor at the right end of the P1 traverse. ~25 more meters from here brings you back to the access track.

Cleaned and bolted, climb the face as per "another one rides the bus" then step into the corner, 5 more bolts then mantel out to the left and clip the chains above.

“Peace be upon you”. Cliff: I re-named this climb following the Christchurch Terrorist attack. It is probably the best climb I have helped put up and is in a very peaceful and beautiful part of NZ, a fitting tribute to all those Kiwis and visitors that lost their lives. As with all climbing at Tairua, this route is the combination of many climbers' efforts, thanks to you all, we are one, Kia Kaha.

1. (19) – Are We Tramping Yet?

2. (22) - Dirty Hairy Frenchman.

3. (20) Transfer to the belay in the middle of the “Living Room Ledge” located on the south side of the middle bollard. From here traverse right slinging one of the large bollards, then drop down and traverse right along a ledge system for about 15m past 4 bolts to a stance, optional belay (recommended for reducing rope drag). From here head straight up the groove then move back left and climb the bollard (wild). Once level with bushy ledge, traverse left back to a DBC belay. An absolutely stunning heart in your mouth pitch. 10 bolts.

4. (20). Hard moves off the ledge then straight up groove,sustained climbing before angle eases up past 5th bolt then continue up to low angled ramp and DBC belay. 8 bolts.

5. (19)– Climb the headwall following the right-trending groove and corner, trickier than it looks. At the 7th bolt move right, across the slab to the DBC belay of Daylight Dilemma. 8 bolts.

6. (18) 6th pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

7. (20) Top pitch of Daylight Dilemma.

Descent: Abseil back down the route. Clip the chain on the top bolt on the 5th pitch and abseil off the left-hand side of the 3rd pitch ledge. You will also need two ropes to abseil off the Living Room ledge. Alternatively abseil down the line of Daylight Dilemma.

Double bolt anchors Obvious bolted line

The left most route on the wall. Some technical moves for the grade past the first few bolts followed by easier climbing to the sloping ledge.

Pitch Number:

1. 18, 50m

2. 18, 35m

3. 18, 15m. Is actually 'Top Pitch'

Start in the middle of the column, climb to the roof on easy moves then punch through on small edges. Route stays slightly overhanging all the way to the top on good holds then goes over another bulge to meet the anchors.

An excellent climb whether done in two pitches or one long one. Climb the right side of the initial face to a ledge. Good holds and a vague groove lead to a leftwards slanting crack with a piton near the top of it. Above this easy climbing leads to a small ledge on the rib with a bolt belay. Belay here or lead on. Step left and gain a large ledge via the corner. There are 2 bolts (replacing old pitons) that protect the corner and moves off the ledge. Climb directly above the far right end of the ledge to a good wire and easy climbing to the large sloping ledge above. There is a bolt belay at the back of the ledge. A third pitch is possible above this but is very short.

Start as for Shelob to the ledge then step right and climb the groove and directly through a steeper bulge. Finish at the Shelob belay or continue to the top, climbing the arete. This 2nd pitch was bolted after originally being led on very sketchy gear in the 90's.

5m left of Shelob the route climbs up broken ground to the slab, up the slab and then follows the streak of light rock.

Starts on the block just left of Kapowai Calling, on the edge of the large gully that splits the face. Nice grade 17/18 moves up to the crux up the small crack at the top. Generously bolted to make for a comfortable lead. 11 bolts.

2m left of the original Mad Carew start, climb directly to the hanging fang passing 2 bolts. Then as for Mad Carew. The recommended way to climb MC.

A great multi-pitch training climb. On the far left of the Shield.

Up Age Concern to the belay of Buckle, then continue up to the right hand end of the roof. Up and over the lip on to the ledge.

Left of No Fly Zone. Climb the face then into the corner via the flakes or transfer over to the adjacent boulder at the jug. Stem your way to the roof then power through and enjoy the top, this climb has everything!!!

Climb the face on good crimps and side pulls, balance your way through the middle section and top out just under the roof. Still needs anchors added.

2nd pitch to Ryobe or join both for a nice long pitch. Fantastic climbing up the steep face with regular rest possibilities.

Starts right of Feariswheel, Climbs the arete and attacks the slight over hang, consistent climbing. Climb to the ledge below "Edging and Dilios" the anchors are on the face.

This is the Tairua classic!

Pitch 1 (19) – Are we Tramping

Pitch 2 (22) 20m Climb easy honeycombed rock to the 2nd bolt,then power through the crux which consists of a series of good underclings with long reaches to small slopey edges.

Pitch 3 (18) 20m Delightful stemming up the steep corner to the large chickenhead visible from below. Can be done as one long pitch or two short pitches at 22/18.

Pitch 4 (26)15m. Up thru scoop and then consistently hard moves to the anchor.

Pitch 5 (21) 30m . Nice moves on good rock to bushy ledge.

Pitch 6 (16) 30m Up slabby ground to rap station just below bushline.

Pitch 1 to 3 Greg Kolbe; Edwin Sheppard Nov 2017

Pitch 4 to 6 Edwin Sheppard, Max Nov 2020

2nd tier. Starts from the anchors at the top of Not here to F*** Spiders (far right side of Lover's Ledge). Rad moves out right lead to a stiff crux sequence into a cave. Top out on the enormous Living Room Ledge. 7 Bolts.

NOTE: Falling off the crux of this route can leave you hanging in space. Make sure you know how to ascend a rope!

Descent: Either rap back down route (difficult), or climb up onto the Alien Head and rap off the Space Ape anchor back to Lover's Ledge. Alternatively it is a 50m rap to the ground from the Living Room Ledge.

P1: Starts right of Première. Crosses the line of Bring Back Buck. Crux at the top going straight up the overhanging face of the large horn feature.

P2: Up the face.

Climb up the slab and into the right facing corner. Awaiting info to update the bolter and FA.

Easier finish to Home Again. Traverse up and right before Home Again's final steep section to the first pitch's anchor of Kapowai Calling.

Start to the right of Coller de Hors. This climb is sustained but well protected. The crux involves pulling over the overhang and getting established on the steep wall above. Steep climb on good rock.

The pronounced streak on the last buttress of this sector. This climb has two cruxes, one high and one low. The higher you get the steeper it is and the rests quickly disappear. The second bolt is tricky to clip due to the nature of the rock but good side pulls are there if you can find them

Originally done as a first pitch to 'Rebels and Outcasts', climbers now always join both in a long pitch and the two together are known as 'Rebels and Outcasts'

From the belay of Buckle, move left and though the roof on pockets. If climbing from the ground, consider extending some draws to reduce rope drag.

An intimidating line that gets harder the higher you climb, with its crux headwall and bold finish. A bit of everything in terms of climbing, slabs, cracks, faces and a overhang. Rock a bit soft at the start.

Originally climbed from the top of the first pitch of 'Shadowfax' but best done as a long pitch using what was known as 'The Twist' as a direct start. Joins the Shiny Goblins belay. A great route with a lot of climbing and a couple of technical cruxes.

Start at the right hand end of the column. Climb the first roof on good holds then punch through the overhanging bulge on small holds before getting a ledge. Climb the corner on slopey holds before veering left at the top for the anchors.

Some really nice slab climbing. Amazing spot

P1: Tough start, then easier climbing up through a groove. Gets more difficult again once you hit the headwall, then up to a big ledge.

Belay your partner up then move left and over a wall to another ledge.

P2: Wild. Up and to the left to a horn feature. Up a groove, then to the right

Description by pitches:

• Pitch 1 - [10 Bolts] [25m] [Grade 20]
• Pitch 2 - [8 Bolts] [30m] [Grade 17]
• Pitch 3 - [12 Bolts] [40m] [Grade 20]
• Pitch 4 - [12 Bolts] [30m] [Grade 17]

P1.(15) From the ledge scramble to the twin cracks to the left. Climb the left-hand crack to the good ledge and rings. P2.(18) From the belay ledge, climb and scramble up and establish yourself on the wall to the left of the obvious piton. Traverse right to good holds and then up into the horizontal break. There was a piton here that has since rusted out but a large cam in an obvious slot does the trick. Get some good pro in the thinner crack above before launching out of the break and up the wall above, using the crack and holds either side. Follow the crack/seam to the good belay ledge and a double bolt belay. P3.(12) From the belay go right along the ledge and climb the left side of the arete. Rings are below the pinnacle top, directly above the 2nd pitch belay.

Scramble up as for shadowfax to where that climb traverses right. Clip the bolt and climb on small holds directly to the break above (crux). Continue on good holds and interesting rock to the belay ledge and bolts.

This route climbs the main steep face up the centre of Hihi Pinnacle. The first pitch starts up the steep face right of the prominent right facing corner.

1. 32m (20). 10 bolts. Start on the steep face a couple of metres right of the prominent right-facing corner. Pumpy climbing up through a series of bulges (crux) to a large hole. There are two bolts above and slightly to the left of the large hole. After clipping the second of these bolts traverse rightwards along a ramp. There is another bolt hidden. Then continue up and right to the belay. A sustained pitch, stiff for the grade.

2. 25m (20). Move up and right from the belay into a steep white groove. Clip a bolt at the top of this groove below a small roof, then traverse hard left with delicate moves. Continue traversing left with very exposed moves around an overhanging arete to reach a ramp and short corner with a crack. Move up this to the belay. Slightly easy for the grade, but exposed.

3. 30m (20). Climb straight up from the belay past 3 bolts. Try to stick to the white rock, which is more solid than the black rock to the left. At the third bolt traverse right up and into a scoop with an overhang above it. Climb this into a steep corner, with steep sustained and exposed stemming straight up until you gain a slab above with belay.

4. 30m (20). Climb easyish slabs and corners up and to the right of the belay (slightly runout between some bolts). Then climb straight up a steep corner then into an exposed overhang with awesome powerful moves on jugs. Pull over the top of the overhang to a belay on a small ledge just above it.

5. 20m (15). Easy but exposed moves up the arete and slab past a few bolts. Don't stop at the first anchor you come to, continue up a track through the trees to a belay at a rocky knob at the very top of the pinnacle. Probably more like grade 12 than 15.

Gain the start of the route by abseiling from the Shadowfax belay down the wall below or from Ryobe scramble diagonally down the bushy ledge. Climb the upward slanting weakness. Sustained. Ends at the belay for Shadowfax.

Start up Coller De Hors then at the 3rd bolt head left through the overhang then head directly up past 4 more bolts to join the top of no fly zone.

Start at the rusty bolts on the face, climb through 3 bolts to a ledge then balance your way up to the roof, take a rest on the ledge and then attack the final crux through the steep lip. No anchors yet, plans to instal them on the next trip, until then there are 2 clips to lower from.

Climb the groove to below the overhang. Move slightly left to surmount the crux overhang to bigger and bigger holds. Slabby finish with an exciting ending. Rock quality is not good as the rest of the crag but still a fun climb

Right-most bolted line of the main wall, under a huge white roof system. Technical climbing with a steep start. Easiest to clean by top-belaying a second. Bring a 70m rope or a tag line.

Shallow groove right of Route 1

From the ledge climb the right line of bolts on crimps, edges and a few jugs... Enjoy the view!!!!

Fun climb up the arete. P1: 10 bolts P2: 10 bolts P3: 8 bolts

The second pitch at the hanging belay in the middle of this wall. Climb to the right underneath the overhang to the crux above the second bolt and then cruise cruise to the top of the honeycomb head wall. Descent is best in two abseils

Climb over several bulges before attacking the roof, the headwall is where the most technical moves are on good crimps. Extend the roof quick draw and the one below it if you don't want rope drag. This route is climbable but still needs an anchor installed which I will do in the coming weeks. currently there are a couple of clips at the top to rap from.

Just to the left of Johns Plaque, head up the left side of the bolts through overhanging jugs, once past the overhang veer right. *Anchors to be added.

Climb the the corner (still needs Anchors)

Climb "Taste The Rainbow" and keep going through a more challenging sequence of moves after the anchors at half height. Start right and traverse left into the first bolt, best to pre clip 1st and 2nd. A 70m rope should get you to the ground with rope stretch or have your belayer step right onto the ledges under "following the sun"

Start from the ledge and traverse right up to a ledge. old bolts have been removed/knocked in. Re bolted but some of the holds at the start look suspiciously formed 🤔

Left side of the Shield Slab

Absolutely wild! Start at the same bolt as Coitus Interruptus but then trend right up the delicate slab before traversing right over ledges to the steeply overhung alien feature. Take a deep breath before launching up the inside of this outrageous feature. Clip the green thread before you mantle out. DBC belay.

Note: There is an anchor on the ledge in the middle of the route, this is the top of Boulderer's Day Off. You can stop here to split the route into 2 pitches.

1. 25m (24) Steep right-trending blocky climbing with no easy bits, skip the first chain anchor. Possible to aid at 20 A0.

2. 25m (19): Tricky moves past two bolts to a steep featured corner crack.

3. 30m (21) Continue up the corner crack (med cams and bolts) then trend up and left on chickenheads.

4. 25m (18) Slabby chickenheads up and left.

5. 30m (21) A beautiful pitch, starting with a steep, technical and sustained vertical face.

6. 30m (18) Interesting friction slab.

7. 15m (20) A few tricky steep moves to more slab.

Descent: Rap the line

The overhanging face leads to easier climbing after the bottom boulder. Anchors still need glued in, stay off till then.