Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
34 | |||||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
34 | ★★ Cerberus
The steep overhanging arete and prow. start up the hound boulder then continue up to a difficult boulder working from one arete to the other. will be the hardest climb in the N.I one day. Equip: James Field-mitchell | 18m | |||
31 | |||||
Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
31 | Slaughter Is The Best Medicine
Boulder start then climb bad crack right of Batman. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2014 | 25m | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
31 | Smith's Choice
Climb hound then trav up the face, not along the ledge, skipping the rest on BTl. PA: Craig Houston, 2017 | 20m, 7 | |||
Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
31 | Shining Bright Despite the Plight
Equip: Richard Bull PA: Josh Evans, 2011 | 18m | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | |||||
31 | Mighty Odin's Raven
PA: Stu Kurth, 2013 | 15m, 5 | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||
31 | Free Pussy Riot
PA: Stu Kurth | 10m | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||
31 | By the Power of Grey Skull
Equip: Richard Bull PA: Stu Kurth, 2010 | 15m | |||
30 | |||||
Waipapa Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||
30 | The Nothing
Start up Millennium Madness then continue straight up the thin seam. Head right through the roof and headwall. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 12m, 5 | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
30 | Kink in the link
climb facial reconstruction but continue around the corner into the crux of lanky. has a run out that is a bit scary and the name is possibly the worst in creation. PA: craig huston | 20m | |||
30 | ★★ Built to Last
Equip: Scott Mooney PA: Scott Mooney, 1999 | 20m, 6 | |||
30 | Hound of Hades
Direct start to 'Maddog Hine' PA: Craig Houston, Ag 2016 | 20m | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||
30 | Direct Threat
Traverse in from left of first bolt. Continue as for Minor Threat. PA: Scott Mooney, 2001 | 8m, 4 | |||
29 | |||||
Waipapa Main Cliff The Arches | |||||
29 | Fire In The Sky
Start up Arches break left and head up face, Through roof (knee bar) then continue straight up to DBC belay. Equip: James Field-Mitchell PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 30m | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
29 | ★ Draw drag dream
A continuation of double major drop out. after doing the small boulder off the ledge on DMD continue left into the top of Cerberus. PA: richard morgan, 2015 | 20m | |||
29 | ★ a la natural
Direct start to hold on to your face. Technical face climbing. PA: daniel Krippner, 2017 | 18m | |||
29 | ★ Maddog Hine
the image on this is incorrect. this route has a seperate anchor to cerberus to the right. PA: Holger Moeller, 2001 | 20m, 5 | |||
Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
29 | ★★ The Last Slab Fighter
PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 15m, 4 | |||
Waipari Bulge Gully The Top Boulders | |||||
29 | ★★ Pedo and the Pieman
Exemplary hard Froggatt 2 finger pocket pulling. Preclip the very high first (only) bolt and don't blow the mantle. PA: Regan McCaffery, 2012 | 7m, 1 | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Bits and Opel | |||||
29 | ★★★ Minor Threat
Equip: Richard Bull PA: Scott Mooney, 2000 | 8m, 4 | |||
28 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Red Rose
Originally named in honor of the English Rugby Victory over the All Blacks. Start up Stalemate to the 4th bolt. Pull left into the very shallow groove and follow this with difficulty past 4 bolts up a thin crack before stepping left onto small ledge. Pull back right onto the wall through small bulge and join the finish of Love Handle Expansion at it's 10th bolt. DBC belay of Love Handle Expansion. (First ascensionist had blinkers on and skipped the small ledge which makes it a bit harder) PA: Martyn Owen, 2003 | 26m, 10 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||
28 | Handsome Julio Direct
Starts as for Handsome Julio, then heads directly up the grey face left of Hard Trad Specialist. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m | |||
28 | ★★★ Hard Trad Specialist
Climb the arching seam just right of the corner. Can place a cam otherwise catch some air time. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2013 | 15m, 4 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | |||||
28 | ★★ Valhalla
Start up the corner right of Immortality. Stroll up to the bulge. Up through tricky steep section(crux). Sustained climbing to the anchor. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2012 | 20m, 10 | |||
Waipari Love Vigilante Boulder | |||||
28 | ★ Love Vigilante
Slab climb to dynamic finish to lip of the roof. PA: Isaac Buckley & James Field-Mitchell, 2020 | ||||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
28 | ★★★ Double Leaning Jowler
PA: Ton Snelder, 1994 | 20m, 7 | |||
28 | Facial Reconstruction
Start as for 'Maddog Hine' / 'Built to Last' and finish up 'Hold Onto Your Face' PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2011 | 20m, 5 | |||
Waipari Main Cliff | |||||
28 | ★★ Burn
PA: Scott Mooney, 1998 | 20m, 7 | |||
Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
28 | Pocket Fish
PA: Holger Moeller, 2007 | 9m, 3 | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Dark Side) | |||||
28 | ★★★ Louder
PA: Ton Snelder, 1993 | 15m, 5 | |||
Waipari The Beer Garden | |||||
28 | ★★ Back From the Web
The bolted arch. PA: Daniel Krippner, 10 Mar 2016 | ||||
Wharepapa Rock Swamp Wall | |||||
28 | Up The Bull No Babies
Slab on the right with an overhanging start. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 23 Ag 2014 | 20m, 7 | |||
27/28 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
27/28 | ★★★ Stalemate
The obvious rib, rib, shallow groove and corner system in the centre of the wall. Climb up the rib and move right into the shallow groove at the 5th bolt. Solve a thin, difficult crux sequence to reach a sloping ledge. Pull right into the corner section. Continue with thin, sustained climbing up the corner all the way to the top – awesome. Hard to on-sight at Gr27 but feels easier once solved. PA: Martyn Owen, 2003 | 26m, 11 | |||
27 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ Morning Glory
Follow the groove and it's right arete past the first 4 bolts with the crux between the 3rd & 4th bolts. Bridge up the upper grove past 3 more bolts then move right under the overhang to gain the small belay ledge, just under the large roof. PA: Cliff Ellery, 2002 | 20m, 7 | |||
27 | ★★ Rolling Stoppages
Climb the face then move right onto the blunt arete and follow this to the 1/2 way ledge (shared with Industrial Action). Climb up the right hand side of the square arete on poor feet, tiny crimps/pockets & 1 good finger jug to a final dead point for the ledge and finish. (No bridging out right into the corner of “Industrial Action”) Note the fall going for the first top ledge is safe but best not to fall heading up the easy ground from here. Upgraded from 26 to 27 due to recent ascents feedback. PA: Martyn Owen, 2002 | 18m, 6 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
27 | ★★ Batman
Up the right side of the scoop. Tricky start bulge leads to small holds. Join Robin on the ledge. PA: Aaron Ford, 2001 | 12m, 6 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff The Arches | |||||
27 | Game of Two Halves
Follow layback crack past 4 bolts. Continue up the arete. Move right and follow slab to belay. PA: Marytn Owen & Fran Louder, 2002 | 25m, 9 | |||
27 | ★★ Hiroshima
An extension to 'Gauche mais pas Maladroit' Climb through the roof. PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2014 | 26m | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
27 | ★★★ The Light's on But Nobody's Home
PA: Richard Bull | 20m, 5 | |||
27 | Going Ballistic
PA: Richard Bull | 20m, 4 | |||
Waipari Main Cliff | |||||
27 | ★★★ Automatic Dour
PA: Chris Plant, 1993 | 15m, 4 | |||
Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
27 | Dr Evil
PA: Holger Moeller, 2007 | 9m, 3 | |||
26 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Penal Servitude
Starts at the Fixe Belay on the ledge 10m above Minor Misdemeanor/Petit Theft. Climb the tricky steepening wall to the roof. Hard moves through this to a "glory jug" and easier to the top. Done way back but never made the original Freeclimb guide. Very good but will need a reclean. PA: Martyn Owen, 2005 | 20m, 7 | |||
26 | ★★ Checkmate
Start as for Wet Under Foot, move right at the 2nd bolt onto the large ledge then climb up the easy ground out right. Climb the arete for a few meters then pull back left onto the face and move up the steep wall up to the roof. Surmount the roof then up the blank looking wall above PA: Cliff Ellery, 2004 | 28m | |||
26 | Man Over Board
A direct start to "All Above Board". Climb off the board walk up the tricky arete and through the small roof and tricky corner above. PA: Martyn Owen, 2004 | 10m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★★ Torture Board
Start off the first board of the board walk. Either pop up off the board below the first bolt or, stem up the corner to the right to the second bolt. (Pre-clip). Climb the corner to ledge. Up the obvious layback to big flat hold then micro-corner above to traverse right at the 7th bolt on second horizontal. Follow the arete to join All Above Board at the 11th bolt. Finish up this. 4 long & varied bouldery/technical sections with rests in between. PA: Martyn Owen, 18 Sep 2022 | 24m, 13 | |||
26 | ★★ Collective Agreement
Start as for Rolling Stoppages to the third bolt then move left up to the ramp/corner. Hard moves up the corner till you gain the belay ledge of Rolling Stoppages. Climb up to the next slopping ledge, then finish up the hard corner to the Double Fixe Lower off. PA: Martyn Owen, 2003 | 25m, 11 | |||
26 | ★★ Outside Edge
From the first bolt move left into the corner, then move left onto the obvious arete. Gain the ledge then bridge up the corner above moving left past the roof then up to a rest. Continue up the wall above (crux) & go left of the roof to mantle onto a small ledge (40-60mm CAM for gear) then move back right onto belay ledge, Double Bolt Chain belay. PA: Cliff Ellery, 2003 | 25m, 8 | |||
26 | Beauty & the Beast
1
22
12m
2
26
10m
The second pitch of this route and the top of the first was pushed off by a massive pine root in March 2019. RIP PA: Andrew Whitmore & Martyn Owen, 2003 | 22m, 2, 7 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||
26 | Kriptonite
Head up the difficult looking rounded pillar left of the big corner to a DB belay. PA: Jamie Baron, 2012 | 11m, 6 | |||
26 | Desperation
PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 25m | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
26 | ★★ Yoda
First climb you come to after climbing onto the narrow ledge, which is the bolted line immediately left of Lock n' Load. Fairly straightforward climbing to the last bolt using pockets, crimps and small side pulls. Baffling and bouldery crux after the 5th clip. Exciting finish onto the ledge. PA: Jamie Baron, 2012 | 15m, 5 | |||
26 | ★ Theropod
The multiple pod feature to the right of Batman. PA: Martyn Owen, 2006 | 18m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★★ Wolverine
Awesome sustained climbing on edges and pockets. Crux is at the top. PA: Jamie Baron, 2012 | 20m, 7 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff The Arches | |||||
26 | ★★★ Three Steps to Heaven
Line directly below the finish of 'The Arches'. Tricky moves at many bolts. With a heart-breaker mantle finish. PA: Martyn Owen, 2001 | 25m, 8 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | |||||
26 | Kruger
PA: Hannes Schulze, 2015 | 15m | |||
26 | ★ Immortality
Up the blank and rounded arete. This leads to a rest and then another crux on the steeper wall above. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m, 10 | |||
26 | ★ Utopia
The left leaning groove/corner feature with tenuous moves that keep you thinking. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m, 12 | |||
Sheridan Hills Chunderosa Buttress | |||||
26 | ★★★ All or Nothing
Big moves on juggy pockets lead to nice edges and slopers with a heartbreaker finish. PA: Daniel Krippner, 15 Ag 2015 | 17m, 6 | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
26 | ★★★ Hold On To Your Face
PA: Luke Newnham, 1992 | 20m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ Vroom Vroom Mentality
PA: Ton Snelder, 1992 | 15m, 4 | |||
Waipari Heavenly Wall | |||||
26 | ★★ Strife
PA: Scott Mooney, 1998 | 10m, 3 | |||
Waipari Red Block | |||||
26 | ★★ Totalling Dad's Car
Work your way up the bottom slab on good holds before clipping the first bolt and tackling the small roof on small finger pockets. Power moves leads you up to a small lip, with a few more moves before the top. PA: Luke Newnham, 1992 | 8m, 3 | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley Da Cave | |||||
26 | ★★ Magnagenie
PA: Scott Mooney | 15m, 4 | |||
26 | ★★ Zahnay Battles The Fishwife
PA: Zane Bray | 15m, 5 | |||
Waipari The Beer Garden | |||||
26 | Supervixen
PA: Matt Tait | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | Redback
PA: Eddie | 8m, 3 | |||
26 | Fat Freddie
PA: Richard Bull | 8m, 3 | |||
Wharepapa Rock Bumbly's Buttress | |||||
26 | ★ Torquemada
The right hand end of main wall, a low roof with ground dropping away PA: Luke Newnham, 1990 | 15m, 7 | |||
25/26 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
25/26 | ★★ Involuntary Discharge
Start up All Above Board to the 4th bolt. Hard sequence up the thin crack and on to the face. Up this to a good ledge. Crux sequence up the steep arete. Pull left along the final sloping ledge and rock onto this to finish at the double ring belay. The grade is somewhat height dependent! PA: Henry Booker, 1 Ag 2021 | 26m, 13 | |||
25 | |||||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
25 | ★ Daylight Robbery
Belay as for Wet Under Foot, Pull into the corner out right. A hard start is followed by easier climbing, which moves right past a number of small ledges. Continue up the shallow corner, pull left onto the slab below the overlap. Climb over the overlap and up onto the head wall. Climb the wall & get established in the rounded groove above(crux). Bridge up the groove exiting slightly left at the top the DBC belay. PA: Martyn Owen, Andrew Whitemore & Sam Bird, 2003 | 30m, 11 | |||
25 | ★★ Wet Under Foot
A hard start up the corner to easier climbing up a series of ledges. At the fifth bolt move left, across the tricky slab towards the corner. Move back right at the top of the short corner and climb the arete (1st crux) then up the corner to the roof. Move left around the roof and pull up into the groove above (2nd crux). Up this to the DBC belay. PA: Cliff Ellery & Kevin Barratt, 2003 | 28m, 12 | |||
25 | ★★★ Drop Me in the Water
Climb up the groove to the small roof, then step right and move out over the roof onto the face. A series of techical moves for the next 15m gets you to a small ledge and a decent rest. A further difficult move puts you up to the roof out right. Move back left then left and climb to the double bolt belay. PA: Cliff Ellery & Richard Knott, 2001 | 25m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★ Route Rustlers
A hard start past the first 2 bolts leads into a groove system which is then climbed gingerly up to the first small roof (with inverted V). Move left from here onto a small ledge just below the large roof. Step back to the right of the large roof, crux and the crack and groove out onto the arete above the roof and then move back left to the belay ledge. DRB belay. PA: Cliff Ellery, 2001 | 25m, 9 | |||
25 | ★ Thieves in the Temple
Start just right of Industrial Action. Climb the small arete, move right at the third bolt to a hidden side pull. Up to a layaway then back left. Continue straight up through the bulges to join Route Rustlers at the foot ledge in the V groove. Finish up this. PA: Martyn Owen, Ag 2019 | 25m, 10 | |||
25 | ★ Finger & Thumbs
Second pitch of 'Under the Thumb'. From the belay of Under the Thumb move back left and climb the hanging corner. Then move back right onto the belay ledge of Outside Edge. PA: Martyn Owen, 2003 | 12m, 4 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
25 | ★★ Natural Progression
PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Lock 'n' Rock
High step start to fingery moves heading right. Once good holds reached head straight up to ledge. Off ledge move left to finish at same anchors as LnL. PA: Aaron Ford, 2000 | 10m, 4 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Metaphysical Wall | |||||
25 | Exo Skeleton
PA: Ashley Doyle, 23 Nov 2014 | 15m | |||
25 | ★★ Trippa Snippa
PA: James Field-Mitchell, 2015 | 15m, 5 | |||
25 | Big Lez
| 15m | |||
Waipari Hold On To Your Face Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Lanky
PA: Richard Bull, 1998 | 15m, 6 | |||
25 | ★★ Direct Action
PA: Richard Bull | 15m, 4 | |||
Waipari Bete Noire Wall | |||||
25 | ★★★ Ma Garta La Narta
Technical pocket face climbing, is as good as it gets starting from the large ledge. Accessed via climbing to the right of Sun Strike. PA: Dave Vass, 1991 | 15m, 5 | |||
Waipari Red Block | |||||
25 | Dads other car
Staying well right of the bolts on Totalling dads car for an easier variant, discovered after some extra cleaning. Avoids all of the hard moves on totalling dads car through the roof. PA: unknown | 8m, 3 | |||
Waipari Animal Biscuit Valley The Moon Boulder (The Australia face) | |||||
25 | ★ 0 to 10 in 60
PA: Dave Vass | 6m, 1 | |||
Waipari The Beer Garden | |||||
25 | ★★ Black Widow
Same line as Back to the Web but at the 5th draw head straight up into the head wall PA: Matt Holcroft, 10 Mayo 2016 | 12m, 5 | |||
Waipari Pupuke Boulders | |||||
25 | ★★ Hi, How You Doin'?
Climb up the steepest part of Pupuke boulder. Powerful moves will bring you through the roof before a well deserved top out on good holds. PA: Dave Vass | 10m, 3 | |||
Wharepapa Rock Gum's Gully | |||||
25 | ★★ Pupation
PA: Ton Snelder, 1989 | 12m, 4 | |||
Wharepapa Rock Swamp Wall | |||||
25 | ★★ Brave Stranger
PA: Andreas Fuchs, 2001 | 20m, 4 | |||
25 | ★ Au Revoir
PA: Ton Snelder, 1989 | 8m, 2 | |||
25 | ★★ Morrisey's Fringe
PA: Ton Snelder, 1989 | 8m, 2 | |||
Wharepapa Rock Bumbly's Buttress | |||||
25 | ★ Summer Time
The direct line to 'Bhang Lhassi' PA: Richard Bull, 1993 | 16m, 5 | |||
24 | |||||
Waipapa Renaissance Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Donnie's Inferno
A grand line. Up the face on pockets then into the corner to an anchor under the big roof. Stays dry in light rain. Equip: Michael Donovan PA: Tom Baanders, 15 Oct 2022 | 25m, 10 | |||
Waipapa Lakeside Wall | |||||
24 | Thumbs Up
Starts in the left facing corner. Hard starting moves then climb up the small groove above to the Fixe Lower Off at approximately half height. PA: Andrew Whitmore, 2003 | 13m, 5 | |||
24 | ★★ Love Handle Expansion
5m metres further down the hill is a shallow right facing corner. Move left past the 2nd bolt & third bolts (crux) then climb up the engaging groove and rib to the bulge & corner. Pull through the bulge on side pulls & good holds then back into the groove. Up to flat ledge out left then climb the wall above, move right, then rock onto the sloping ledge to finish. PA: Martyn Owen, 2003 | 26m, 11 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Galaxy Walls | |||||
24 | ★ Handsome Julio
Head up the left-facing crack until a seam is met. Clip the third bolt then head along this seam right then up until you grab the arete. Continue up the arete to the anchor. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ No Country for Old Men
Starts as for Doing it at Dawn, then at half height take the righthand line of bolts. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m | |||
24 | ★★ Doing it at Dawn
The bolted line just right of the fixed rope. Head up the left trending groove until half height, then take the left line of bolts up the headwall. PA: Jamie Baron, 2011 | 20m, 9 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Wall of Fate | |||||
24 | ★★ Lock 'n' Load
Heads straight up the centre of the wall right of 'Yoda'. Tricky start to exciting finish. PA: Aaron Ford, 2000 | 10m, 4 | |||
Waipapa Main Cliff Millenium Wall | |||||
24 | ★★★ Sex Kitten
Climb the bulges to the ledge. Crux is the steep bulge about the ledge. Then progresses through easier ground to a steep finish on large holds. PA: David Hood, 2001 | 25m, 10 |