Vías en North America para grado seleccionado

Shares start with "Porn Star Obsession" but trends right. Used to be 11c, but a loose block was trundled making it much harder at the crux.

Starts on the big separated block and continues on the head wall. Rebolted with glue ins November 2015.

Record de tiempo protegiendo cada una de las bandas: 2:00 David Ramiro Zúñiga

Starts on top of the "middle flake" and finishes with the nice grey tufa. The classic warm-up with great moves on solid stone.

One of the first routes on Las Animas.Classic.

Starts on the right side inside the cave and leads out to an anchor just next to the big tufa.

Perma-draws. Very nice athletic moves.

Starts on top of the right (pointy) flake.

Going up the yellow rock with a bulge in the middle.Classic crimping up orange bomber rock.

Follows hidden jugs through massive huecos to the top of the wall.

Trends right for the first 6 bolts or so to the bush and then goes up straight.

Super cool squeezed line between the 11's. Yes the final hold was comfortized for comfort and positivity and to avoid another 5.13. An extension to this would yeild a magnificient 13-/+ of 40+ meters.

Muy buena vía de equilibrio. Movimientos técnicos de placa. Muy divertida y recomendable!

Por la cara entre el diedro de Chuy y el diedro de lágrimas de mi chorizo.

Scramble up on the sloping ledge right of the detached block (you might want to clip the first bolt of Mouchie Mouchie) and take the left bolt line up the headwall.

Pasa por el lado izquierdo de la pequeña cueva.

--EN--

Climbs the left side of the small save.

Doesn't use the big edge to the left.

Same start as the dynamic 11c to the right then cut left after the no hands rest. A beautiful v3/4 boulder problem on crimps and pebbles over the bulge. A must do

Just right of the center line, a classic.

Start on the big ledge and dyno/deadpoint to the top of the boulder. One-move wonder.

Grade greatly varies on where you start, how you climb it and your height.

The summit register is at the end of pitch 13, most people skip the last two pitches, and, especially, the last pitch. Bring a 70m rope and 24 draws if linking pitches. Fixed draws on P7 for rappelling the traversing pitch.

Sit start on the flakey jugs near the center of the boulder. Move up and left to top out using the big sidepull.

Fixed draws

Long and closely bolted route finishing right of the dihedral. Easier climbing leads to a steeper finish on pockets and crimps. Perma draws the whole way. 60m rope sufficient.

Start low and traverse right until it is possible to mantle. Slopes and hooks are abundant here. Classic frictiony slopers.

Starts with one hand in the jug on the right side of the cave and one hand on the starting hold for 'West Nile'. Move up to the lip and top out at the prow.

Very nice route, the name of the route is written on the rock in blue ink in a yellow box, hard to find.

Climbs the huge tufa. Originally graded 5.11b! It seems a hold broke at the start making it 5.11d or even 5.12a. The boulder start is the crux.

Fantastic climb!!!! Careful on the raps, knot end of ropes to be sure!

The 5.12a can be french freed.

[dagibbs edit note, 2012] Neither Dane's guide (The Whole Enchilada, 2007) nor Ed's book (Climb El Potrero Chico, 17th ed 2012) mention this route, or anything similar to this route in this area. But, there is a topo for the Outrage Wall in the back of Ed's book that diagrams "Jambo Bwana (TWZ)" beside the Surf Bowl. So, this pretty clearly is the first few pitches of TWZ (until the first garden). Maybe TWZ was only bolted part way when this was first posted? Or the climber thought the 3rd class was the end? [/edit note]

The approach is long, follow the spire path and keep going, the route is on the far left [edit: actually far right] of the Surf bowl. Still very chaucy rock, needs more ascents to clean the route. The crux pitch is made harder in part due to the crimper holds crumpeling while most inconvinient. There is a fixed rope at the top, to rap the top pitch.

-z- you are correct, JumboBwano was the original route, and Timewave was added from the 3rd class ledge. It is in my 2001 guide ... Timewave was added in 2003 I think. Ed and I tried for the 2nd ascent, but were overtaken by a simul climbing Mexican team. They were not going to let us take the 2nd! We only made it to the eighteenth pitch, and they past us on the way down before we got done!

P1: 4 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P2: 9 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P3: 8 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P4: 7 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P5: 8 Bolts (4 bolt anchor) P6: 9 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) Traverse pitch P7: 3 Bolts (3 bolt anchor) P8: 4th class P9: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P10: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) traverse P11: 8 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P12: Ledge for overnight bivy P13: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P14: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P15: 9 bolts (3 bolt anchor) P16: 9 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P17: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P18: 8 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P19: 6 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P20: 7 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P21: 10 bolts (4 bolt anchor) P22: 7 bolts (2 bolt anchor) P23: 6 bolts (1 bolt anchor) ridge traverse

10 th route . on of the first lines in the cave but not the first one since Canek & Mudo bolted virus de gallina and arbolito first, they were left uncomplited , many years later Alex Catlin finished them both adding more bolts . this 5.12 a is really good, climb left into a steep section, pull through sloppers ,find your rest and keeo moving through crimps ,sidepulls and balancy reachy moves into cracked dehedral.

Climbs the natural weakness through the wall following tufas to the bottom of the massive stalactites.

The pocketed line on the white streak. Cruise pockets all the way to a tricky finish!

A balancey slab to a long v4.

fun bouldery style climbing

FA Andy Howe Craig Smith Dec 1992

Small stalactites lead to the crux near the middle of the route to a finish on several perfect tufa pinches.

A Potrero Chico classic.

De las vías más sólidas del grado, un poco morfológica en el crux.

Inicia por agarres buenos hasta un bloque muy duro de pocos movimientos para de ahí seguir hasta las cadenas en agarres buenos pero con resistencia.

On the right end of the upper flake. Small features and cracks lead you to the top of the pillar. Anchor has two solid permadraws.

Start matched in the good slot at the lip. Climb left to top out as for the end of The Orbital Traverse. A hard sit start below this looks possible.

The obvious line leading through the most structured part of the wall. Slightly trending left. Bolted with glue-ins.

The steep overhanging face with jugs.

A Potrero Chico classic!

Permadraws, except for first 3.

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

Es una ruta corta (tiene extensión 5.12d) comparte reunión con "Sangría 5.12c". La ruta termina justo antes del diedro.

Obvious line following the overlap

A technical start leads to steep climbing on good holds. Glue ins were put in down low on 29. April 2019.

There is an extension to this route 15 bolts

Tiene una extensión que la vuelve 12a

The route right of Gula. A technical start, followed by crimpy and sustained climbing.

Es la primer reunión de la ruta más impresionante de la pared. Es la grieta más larga y desplomada, pero crudita solo es la primera parte de la ruta.

Inicia por "Picudo" hasta la quinta placa, de ahi gira a la izquierda en un crux de regletas y talones para continuar con una secuencia de power endurance a las cadenas.

Video POV: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-y53ZedgWm4

Solo la primera mitad

One of the steepest at Grassi. Follow the right trending crack on new (2015) fixed draws. Crux is where the lower crack gains the upper. The last redpoint crux is a heart breaker dictated by the pump. Enjoy

If you're going all the way, check out the full Heinous Cling. For most of us, the fun will stop at the first anchor.

Begin up a seam and pockets with an optional gear placement (BD 0.4 or 0.5) in the horizontal crack. Continue up pockets and good holds. Manage your pump in preparation for more difficulties prior to reaching the final bolt.

Just to the right of Phasers on Kill, climb up the series of bulges. 4 bolts and 3 cams.

Starts about 3m meters right of "Snott Girlz" and a little to the right of "Stone Groovin'". Starts up the big flake and over the bulge.

Harder now due to breaks on the topout holds.

A fun route with the crux coming at the second bolt.

Starts on La Viola but continues straight / right. A beautiful endurance route that starts on massive stalactite formations and ends on a massive tufa to a technical face.

Starts on the slab right under the big stalactite. Hard moves to get to the stalactite. Rest on the right side of the cave. Reachy stemming move to reach the first anchors.

Inicia siguiendo una grieta diagonal hacia la derecha para despues llegar a un descanso grande sin manos, de ahi sigue un bloque v3-v4 de power endurance aproximadamente de 3 placas de distancia.

Descanso final y cazuelas a la reunión. La extensión está a la derecha de las cadenas y sube casi hasta top out de pericos

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mwF5iwdVKbU

Climbs up the intimidating overhanging arete at the left side of Bonsai. A seated rest halfway lets you prepare for the final haul through the crux.

Your redpoint can be significantly easier if someone hangs a long draw on bolt #6 before your attempt.

Great technical climbing.

The route is graded on pump, but the buckets do run out into smaller jugs in 2 sections. 30m's of constant overhanging steep powerful climbing. Pray for a low gravity day and that your arms don't explode!

Just right of the phallus feature at the cave's bottom. Pumpy, fun, unique, and excellent climbing. Trends slightly right.

Left of LSG.

One of the first routes developed at the sector. Stick clip a high first bolt. Hard moves off the ground lead to a rest out right. Progressively harder moves lead to a final mantle and a fixed belay on the slab above.

Climb a few harder moves on the face to continue on Your wife. try to avoid big flake out left to start

A tough opening move gains a crack in a left facing corner. From the 3rd bolt, step left and execute cool moves between steep jugs that leads to a power draining, sequential crux. Steady now