Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Zona | Calidad | Fecha | |||
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Unknown | ||||||||
25 | ★★ I'll Stick Around - con Kent Paterson | 12m, 3 | Mt Alexander | Dom 14.º Nov 2004 | ||||
21 | ★★ Squish Band | 22m | The You Yangs | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
28 | ★ Pain and Frequency - con Alister Robertson, Kent Paterson | 18m | The You Yangs | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 14.º Jun 2004 | |||
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17 | ★ Mira Nova | 130m, 8 | Frederick Peak | Medio | Jue 8.º Oct 2015 | |||
Second bolt is very high - at the limit of my reach and I'm 6ft. Technical climbing which is fun but over pretty quickly. Mostly an access pitch to KN.
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18 | ★ Cassandra | 40m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Good climbing but greasy rock.
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17 | ★ Checkpoint Charlie - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 5 | Halls Gap Area | Medio | Dom 3.º En 2016 | |||
Worth taking gear! While the new bolts are good, the old one on the crux don't look great, and the last bolt is not a ring, it's a FH so if you want to lower off a single ring use the second last bolt. It's also easy to traverse to the rings on Sprung.
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20 | ★ Indecisivity | 15m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 18.º En 2016 | |||
Turned out better than originally thought. Maybe 19?
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25 | ★ Mixed Metaphor | 25m, 5 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Toproped as, like all of Gordy's bolts it seems, they are non stainless and already rusted to crap.
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21 | ★★ The Better the Boy the More the Joy | 21m, 5 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
26 | Fitzroy Street | 12m, 4 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mar 7.º Oct 2014 | |||
The 21 version
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23 | ★ Vogon Destructor Fleet - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 2.º Nov 2015 | |||
Three tricky sections.
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22 | ★ Hyperspace Bypass - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 2.º Nov 2015 | |||
Thin bit in the first half then R and L up the wall
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23 | ★★ Nosy Business | 20m, 4 | Frog Buttress | Medio | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
Don't really remember this, the climbing didn't stand out.
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23 | ★★ Chemical Adrenalin | 24m, 4 | Frog Buttress | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 15.º Ag 2016 | |||
Found this hard, maybe 24?
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20 | ★★ Wimps in the Gym | 16m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
20 | ★★ Fist Full of Ants | 20m, 4 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
24 | Mixed Blessing | 50m, 4 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
Looks better than it is. The bolts are practically unclippable.
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25 | ★★★ Station to Station - con Gareth Llewellin | 22m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 24.º Oct 2015 | |||
Second day with a howling wind! I quite like this although it is old-school and wandery.
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22 | ★★ Cecilia | 25m, 4 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
26 | ★★ Redacted 1 (Social Retard) - con Kieran Lawton | 30m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Really good, 4 x 23ish cruxes, a slopey bulge, a technical footsy traverse, a powerful iron cross, and a technical crank at the end. A great mirror image to Birdman.
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25 | ★★ Stonkers and Steroids - con Paul Hoskins | 30m, 4 | Frog Buttress | ★ Buena | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
Second or third shot, after which it was promptly downgraded from 26... sigh. Boulder problems between jugs.
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24 | ★★ Free Will - con Geordie Webb | 20m, 4 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Dom 25.º Dic 2016 | |||
A great second ascent by Geordie minutes after the first. Good variety - a slippery seam, an awkward balancy crack, a weird traverse, crank through a roof and a headwall that can feel hard enough to be interesting if you're pumped - which I was. Good fun.
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25 | ★★★ Debutantes and Centipedes | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
I really like the top half, but not the bottom, and the crux is tweaky. Julian Saunders says he's had more business from the pocket on this route than any other hold in Australia. Beware.
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26 25 | ★ Gay Olympics | 20m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
Thin and very hard.
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26 | ★★ Golden Gaytime | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars. One or no stars
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22 | ★ Spasticus Autisticus (Spasticus Autisticus (Not Autisticus Spasticus)) | 17m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
I find this quite hard, and not that much fun. Others seem to like it.
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27 | ★★ Body Recession - con Kate Dooley | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 30.º Oct 2014 | |||
Two days
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23 | ★★ Tough Titties | 20m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Thin and hard start
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25 | ★ Feral Fee-box | 12m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
20 | ★★ Goodbye To All That - con kieran lawton | 35m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
A bouldery start, then it's a bit uninspiring crossing Scorpion, but the top bit is excellent
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18 | Great Sleeping Weather - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 26.º Mar 2016 | |||
Good fun, three interesting sections
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24 | ★ Petrol Solutions | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Good climbing, bolts are probably suspect and there's a silly #4RP behind a loose looking flake at the top. At the moment, a good one to toprope off the chains.
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23 | ★ Purple Denotes Bruising | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
This is the only route I can think of that I don't think should have been rebolted. The bolts were so obviously rubbish from the day they were put in that it made it quite atmospheric - a bolted death route. Now it's not really worth doing, as the climbing is just average.
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
The slopey traverse in is crap, the DS much better.
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23 24 | ★★ Jilted | 15m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
Great climbing, probably 23, bolts need replacing. Takes a small wire after last bolt.
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23 | ★★★ Lunatic | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
If only it didn't have the rest in the gully.. fabulous climbing. A small cam (green alien? blue alien? I forget) is a very, very good idea to back up (or replace) the peg.
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23 | ★★ Twister and Beyond | 13m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
23 | ★ He Who Snoozes Loses | 17m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
19 | ★ Simple Pleasures Variant Start | 18m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
22 | Lemon Seeds | 18m, 3 | Mt Stuart | Medio | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
22 | ★★ Too Much Fun | 23m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
20 | ★★ Suspicion | 23m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★ Buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
21 | ★ Only the Best Boys | 21m, 3 | Mt Stuart | Medio | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
22 | ★★ Joy Boy | 21m, 3 | Mt Stuart | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 23.º Oct 2018 | |||
26 | ★★ Industrial Muscle - con ingvar | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 28.º Abr 2015 | |||
Two star 23 - awesome - to a ledge and then dyno for a thread off slopes.
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23 | ★★ Fault Line Direct | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 1.º Mayo 2015 | |||
Add 10 grades if you're short, and 100 if you're Wendy's size
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24 | ★★★ Spring Offensive - con Wendy Eden | 20m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Brilliant! Bolts need replacing.
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25 | ★★★ Henry Bolte | 30m, 3 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
I've never really liked the bottom half, but the top is good if you go direct.
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26 | Hot Finger | 10m, 3 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
More like 24?
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24 | ★★ Allez | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
A great first 8m or so, then just jump off and lower off the ring. Really cool. All big holds so good for the fingers. The second and third bolts are a bit hard to clip and you'd be hitting the ground so I'll try to remember to do this on doubles in the future. Pretty solid for 24.
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25 | ★★★ Spasm in a Chasm - con Gordon Poultney | 25m, 3 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Doesn't seem that soft to me. I'd worked the crux but not the finish - when I got through I was too pumped to place the wire, ended up just laying one on for the last hold, which fortunately was a jug. Phew.
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24 | ★★ Down With His Pants | 20m, 3 | Frog Buttress | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 4.º Jul 2016 | |||
The bottom has a cool sequence, I remember enjoying the top too.
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26 | ★ Heimweh | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Interesting climbing but wanders about. It'd be an ugly fall off the crux.
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19 21 | ★ Blind Profit - con Wendy | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
Original is too contrived to even work out where you're supposed to go. Step R at the first bolt, back left and then enjoy the fun top roof.
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20 | ★ Brit Milah | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
Okay but not worth a star.
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24 | ★ Look Sharp | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 30.º Sep 2014 | |||
OK, a hard crank then insecure.
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28 | ★ Slime Time - con Ingvar | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 7.º Oct 2014 | |||
Maybe 3 days? Quite good, and not particularly slimy. One slippery hold. Reachy though - there's a move at the start that is about 23 for me and looks 32 for Dave Jones.
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22 | Fingersmith | 16m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
23 | Throw Me No Beers | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Bolts probably need replacing now
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18 | ★ Dude Boobs - con Claudio | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Good position, climbing is average
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17 | ★★ Discord Direct | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 11.º Oct 2014 | |||
20 | ★ Toad in the Hole | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 30.º Oct 2014 | |||
super greasy
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26 | ★★ Wackford Squeers Direct | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
I really like this one. Best route on the wall (that I can do!)
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18 | ★ Interlude - con Abby Watkins | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | Basura | Dom 11.º Oct 2015 | |||
The climbing is quite good but there are major loose blocks on this that mean I would not do this route again or recommend it to others.
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25 | ★ Cliff Richards - con Paul Hoskins | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Vie 16.º Oct 2015 | |||
20 | ★ Brit Milah | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
20 | ★★ Antique Road Show - con estherenita | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Top section is great, bottom crux is not that much fun - but maybe I could just climb it better!
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24 | ★ Cumelittle | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Not sure why people bother with this. If you're going to do one 24 at Arapiles, make sure it's not this one. Sonic Boom is good! Do Sonic Boom instead! Go for a walk! Read an improving book! Phone your Mother!
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23 | ★ Riot or Wrong | 9m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Tried to lead it when the bolt was gone - fiddly gear. Got pumped and tr'd it.
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18 | ★★★ Eurydice | 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
A bit greasy but good.
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17 | ★★ Swinging | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
Seem to do it differently every time. Always engaging
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19 | ★★ Touch-Type | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
19 | Renunciation | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mar 17.º Nov 2015 | |||
18 | ★ Brown Thumb - con Wendy Eden | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 12.º Dic 2015 | |||
Take care with the start which is fairly hard and tricky to find the gear. A mid size hex or #12 Rock would go well, but a Yellow Camalot and #3 RP work too.
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17 | Tallness is something Other People Suffer From - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Sáb 26.º Mar 2016 | |||
Typically bold, take microcams and be prepared to run it out. Super bunched on the crux.
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15 | ★ I am a Banana Expert - con Wendy Eden | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 26.º Mar 2016 | |||
Nice steady climbing. Take small cams. Might be 16? We're really not sure at these grades.
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22 | Greg will be Amused - con Wendy Eden | 10m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Sáb 9.º Abr 2016 | |||
24 23 | ★ Walking Simulator | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 18.º Mayo 2016 | |||
Amazing. Incredible. My whole life as a climber has culminated in this. At least today it did.
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22 | ★★ Snipe | 23m, 2 | Frog Buttress | Dom 17.º Jul 2016 | ||||
Don't remember anything!
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23 | Got It! - con Paul Hoskins | 27m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 29.º Abr 2015 | |||
24 | ★ The Real Thing | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★★ Myself - con adam demmert | 10m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Lun 30.º Nov 2015 | |||
Nice climbing with all the hard moves in the top third. Easier than BM, might be 22?
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24 23 | ★★★ Despatched - con Paul Hoskins | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Megaclásica | Sáb 24.º Oct 2015 | |||
24 If you ask me! I kicked out the RP above the roof and lost it - slumped onto a #1 RP. Went back and did it later. One of the best 24's at the mount. Don't bother with the second pitch, it's rubbish.
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26 | ★★★ Denim - con Brendan Emmerson | 45m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 10.º Nov 2015 | |||
TR'd it with a fall then led it placing the gear on another day. Hadn't really looked at the gear so it felt like a proper 'placing the gear' tick. While it has good history and a good line the climbing's not that much fun, worth one star but not two.
I led the second pitch about 2005 and thought it was well protected.. went back 2015 and jumped off a few times as there was a runout traverse and a mantle before gear. Backed off as if you fell off the mantle you'd hit your belayer/the ledge.??? |
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24 | ★★ Astral Plane | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Lun 29.º Sep 2014 | |||
Good but not two stars as I recall.
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22 | ★★ Easy Does It | 12m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Tricky and pumpy at the top
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23 | ★★ Beside Myself | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mié 8.º Oct 2014 | |||
Thought this was good but not two stars. Have done second pitch, remember it being loose feeling and not much gear but don't remember the climbing being great. Might be worth doing it again.
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23 | ★ A Plaything For the Missus | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 10.º Oct 2014 | |||
Bolts need replacing
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25 | Small Wall | 8m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Mar 14.º Oct 2014 | |||
Quite good, a wild solo.
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21 | ★★ The British Beat | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Ni te molestes | Mié 23.º Sep 2015 | |||
Horrible slick slab. Glad I did it when I was too young to know better and don't have to do it again.
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21 | ★ Great Working Dog Stories - con Wendy Eden | 40m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 22.º Oct 2015 | |||
Second pitch is quite cryptic! Had me stumped for quite a while.
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21 19 | ★ Pestilence | 20m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
I did this before the bolts went in, thinking it was The Garden's Full of Furniture - the upper section probably is. Start is reachy and hard for 19 unless you come in from Scourge
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25 | Stage Right | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Mié 4.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★ Pulpy Kidney - con Rob Oliver | 15m, 2 | Arapiles | Medio | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Has new bolts, yay.
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25 | ★★★ Trojan | 86m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★★ Clásico | Jue 5.º Nov 2015 | |||
Had Wendy's gear in. Great climbing.
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25 | ★★ The Low Down - con Ken | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Mié 11.º Nov 2015 | |||
20 21 | ★★ Aussie Logic - con Cate Webb | 23m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Jue 12.º Nov 2015 | |||
Distinctly easier if you are tall. Nice climbing. I wander R of the upper bolt too. Needs brackets.
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22 | ★ Drivetime | 8m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Vie 13.º Nov 2015 | |||
23 | ★★★ Fever Pitch | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ★★ Muy buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
22 21 | ★★ Yesterday's Rooster | 22m, 2 | Arapiles | ★ Buena | Sáb 14.º Nov 2015 | |||
I always find this a bit scary - rock and gear at the start are a bit iffy. And it feels like 22
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Actually a very good route if you live in Melb and like crimping, aretes and slabbing.