Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
16 | ★★ The Sisters of Fatima
A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top. PA: F Lumsden & J Smoothy, 2000 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Halva
Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H". Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB. PAL: Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1992 | 20m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★★ Materialistic Prostitution
A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB. PA: Ross Allan & Rick White, 1970 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Mezzaluna
Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock. PA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998 | 25m, 8 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★ Tombstone Row
Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR". Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16. PAL: David Reeve, 1968 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Karinya
Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff. PA: Jason Lammers, 2006 | 25m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★★ Watchtower Crack
1
12
25m
2
14
20m
3
16
18m
4
16
32m
Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam.
PA: John Fahey, Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull, 1966 | 95m, 4, 3 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★ Sloth
The right route PA: John Hawkins-Salt, 1994 | 23m, 8 | Nowra | ||
16 | ★★ Barbie Twins
Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs. PA: Rod Young & Catherine Eadie, 1991 | 17m, 7 | Nowra | ||
16 | ★ Standing Room Only
Start at "SRO" mark. Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB. PA: David Whitworth & Michael Long, 1994 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Anonymous DS
Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'. Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB. | 18m, 6 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Rabbit Season, Duck Season
Another nice warm up for Duck Wall. PA: Viona Young, 9 Sep 2015 | 12m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 R | ★★★ Brolga
1
15
30m
2
16 R
30m
3
14
30m
Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off the slight ledge just above the path.
PA: Keith Lockwood & Andrew Bowman, 1975 | 90m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★★ Muesli
Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete. PA: Col Reece & Mike Round, 1972 | 18m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★★ Micron
The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! Rap down DBB above Elastic RURP to avoid getting ropes stuck. PA: Unknown, 1972 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Sun Chaser
Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB. PA: Graham Page & A Dodson, 2006 | 15m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Snake Charmer
Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay. PA: Colin Carstens, 2007 | 15m, 7 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Horse-drawn Zeppelin
Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top. PA: Barry Overs & Steve Bell | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ The Bee's Knees
Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI"). Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB. PA: Gareth Llewellin, Kevin Coleman & ross ferguson, 2005 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★★ Libretto
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.
PA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Big Ears
One of the best easy routes here. Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it. Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'. PA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971 | 14m | Werribee Gorge | ||
16 | ★ Short Legs
[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top. PA: Bill James & Co. | 12m, 4 | Mount Keira | ||
16 | ★★★ Satan's Smokestack
The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route. PA: Rick White & Chris Meadows., 1968 | 40m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★ Man Overboard
Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock. PA: Peter Blunt & Ian Brown, 1984 | 26m | Point Perpendicular | ||
16 | ★ Nuclear Novice
The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope. Equip: Matt Brooks PAL: Buck Rogers & Matt Brooks, 14 Mayo 2016 | 15m, 5 | Flat Rock | ||
16 | ★ It's For You
Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19? Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020. PA: James Holbrook, 1984 | 10m, 3 | Berowra | ||
16 | ★ Frontier Psychiatrist
Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'. Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain. The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'. PA: Gareth Llewellin & ross ferguson, 2006 | 16m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ The Horse
Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'. Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB. PA: ross ferguson & Gareth Llewellin, 2004 | 12m, 4 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
16 | ★ Petit Miam
PA: Veronique Hill & Graeme Hill, 1992 | 8m, 4 | Nowra | ||
16 | ★ Moonlight Dilemma
Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD". Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'. FA Unknown, original line unknown Equip: David Reeve & Ruth Reeve, 2013 | 15m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 R | ★★ Marmot's Mall
The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place. Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18. PA: Rowan Webb, Dave Parkhurst & Kevin Sheehy, 1966 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
V0 | ★ Point of View
Up layaway arete. PA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
16 | ★ Undertow
Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete. PA: Mark Rewi, 2014 | 15m, 5 | Camels Hump | ||
16 | ★★ Whale of a Time
1
14
16m
2
16
20m
3
12
14m
A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Ring bolts. Take about 10 draws.
PAL: Dave Burt, Nick Roach & Jesse Bowker, Feb 2017 | 50m, 3 | Scarborough Cliffs | ||
V0 | ★ Bangers
Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top. PA: Tim O'Neill | 3m | The Balkans | ||
16 | ★ French Bandit
Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK. PA: Matt Schimke, 2010 | 12m, 4 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Hot Play
Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up. PA: Neil Monteith, 2008 | 9m, 4 | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
V0 | ★ Frontrow
Up over bulge on big holds. PA: Rob Saunders | 3m | The Balkans | ||
16 | ★ Ag Science
Great climbing, wanders a bit. Reachy. 1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off. PA: Mikl, 1980 | 18m, 4 | Narrabeen | ||
16 | ★ Asgard
Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route. | 15m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★ Century
A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge. PA: Rick White & Ian Cameron, 1970 | 15m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★★ The Spartan
1
14
16m
2
16
24m
3
14
10m
Classic roof traverse above great space Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A
PA: John Ewbank (Second freaked) | 50m, 3, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★ Puppy
PA: Mark Woodard, 1995 | 7m | Nowra | ||
16 | ★★ Line Of Credit
Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'. Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.
Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Alternatively, head up 3m from P2 anchors to bushy ledge and walk left to join up with the Caves Route. PA: Darrin Carter & Kevin Coleman, 2004 | 70m, 2, 23 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
16 | ★ Solar Eclipse
Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE". Follow 4 RBs, trending slightly right, to DBB. Rebolted 2014. PA: Heinz Buscher & Ros Jackson, 2010 | 20m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | ||
16 | ★ Stinkeye
Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder. PA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1998 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Coming on Chris
A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb! PA: Mike Law, 1976 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★ The Pioneer
A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay. Start: 5m L of LFTS. PA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 1998 | 40m, 11 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Dorothy May
Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl. PA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 3 | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Jason
Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof. PA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Peter Jackson, 1966 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
V0 | ★★ Sydney Highrise
Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out). | 5m | Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) | ||
16 | ★★★ The Mission
Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor. PA: Mark Whetu & Russ McRae, 1996 | 28m, 9 | Wye Creek | ||
16 | ★ Sparky
Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 rings. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed. PA: David Barnes, 1992 | 10m, 3 | Bluebell | ||
16 | ★★ Getts Up and Goes
[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts. PAL: Graeme Hill, Muir & Prehn PA: Terry Jackson, 2012 | 12m, 5 | Mount Keira | ||
16 | ★ Black Hole
Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH". Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs visible from the base. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block anchor is hiding over the lip. . Rebolted 2014. PA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 10m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
16 | ★ Via the Rainbow
Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts. PA: Herb Brandmeier & John Debont, 2009 | 12m, 6 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★★ Yo Yo
The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.
PA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 90m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
16 R | ★ Insomnia
Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I". Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB. Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains. Very slippery rock. PAL: Andy Anderson, Dave Whitworth & Saul Squires, 1992 | 18m, 4 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★★ Plexas
Start: Traverse right from the cave, or start directly up left side of the lower cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner. PA: Colin Reece, 1975 | 18m | Morialta | ||
16 | ★★ Wishful Thinking
Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top. PA: Mike Law & Ian Ravenscroft, 1982 | 21m, 1 | Camels Hump | ||
16 | ★ Castor
Please take note that someone has incorrectly labelled this climb with a P (presumably for Pollux, which is the climb to the left). Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route! PA: Rick White & Ron Collett, 1969 | 22m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ Asteroid Belt
Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB". Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014. PA: Heinz Buscher, 2010 | 18m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
16 | ★★ Visions Fade
Stays just left of the arête. Careful belay for the last clip. Equip: S Puchala PA: S Puchala, 2012 | 12m, 7 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ It's A Long Way To Tip A Fairy
Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS. PA: Herb Brandmeier & Joan Vickers, 2002 | 45m, 8 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Hairy Harriet
Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall. PA: Rod Young, 2005 | 14m, 8 | Nowra | ||
16 | ★ Rubbery Under Arms
Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above. PA: Michael Creek, 1986 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Flat Tack
Sport route 10m L of Jugular Pulse. PA: Neil Monteith & Kent Paterson, 2013 | 20m, 7 | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★ Winston Alley
A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout. PA: Rob Staszewski & Ian Thomas, 1977 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★★★ The Gates of Janus
A perspective from the one of the first ascentionist, Keith Bell. From a slight online interview conducted, Keith had the following to share with the world about the first ascent of this beautiful climb: I was keen on Greek and Roman History/Myths and the Gates of Janus refer to a temple with two doors. I think they were opened when Rome was at war and closed in peace time. A Janus Head is also two joined heads looking in different directions. I think the name came to me because a) it sounds good and b) The climb lies at the bottom of an access gully. Recently I wrote the following: By the start of 1970, a few climbing goals had been kicked and others had arisen to take their place. In the Warrumbungles, Howard Bevan and I had made the fourth ascent of Lieben, and the first ascent of the Gates of Janus at Mt Boyce. Rather stupidly this ascent was made in the first wear of my first pair of friction boots, a pair of RD’s that featured brown suede leather uppers and bright red laces. The rubber on the sole was case hardened and since it had not been roughed up made the layback up the corner a very slippery affair. The ascent was also cam and hexcentric free leaving the only large protection available, the extruded aluminium hexagonal chunks that were fashioned and sold by John Ewbank. PA: K Bell & H Bevan | 50m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★ Ice Nine
A popular climb, and the easiest in the area. Can be easily linked in one single pitch. Finish as for Harlequin Start: On top of the large boulder at the base of the cliff at the far right of the crag. | 35m, 2 | Freycinet National Park | ||
16 | ★ Blow Me
Right of ferny crack; mostly straightforward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up. Equip: Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 7 En 2015 PA: Viona Young, Jason Lammers & Wade Stewart, 7 Feb 2015 | 16m, 9 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★ Golgotha
Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack. PA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970 | 15m | Morialta | ||
16 | Spokeye
PA: Garth Miller, 1991 | 7m | Nowra | ||
16 | ★★ Arab
1
16
25m
2
10m
3
3
15m
4
25m
5
32m
2m L of Dunes is a R facing corner. Start by scrambling (or roping) up this to the top of the huge flake.
PA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965 | 110m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★★ Ruby Of India
1
14
45m
2
13
45m
3
16
45m
4
13
28m
5
14
45m
Protection: Full rack: nuts, hexes, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad. To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock: East Face - East Face - short cut ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch. ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree
When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully: ★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb. PA: Rick White, Ron Collett & Keith Nannery, 1971 PAL: Tony Kelly & Jon Oddie, 1971 | 210m, 5 | Mt Maroon | ||
16 | ★ Sabrasucker
Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish and rap anchor behind the top of the pillar. PA: Trevor Gynther & Rob Staszewski | 25m | Frog Buttress | ||
16 | ★ Without Council Approval
Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB. PA: ross ferguson & Claudia Ferguson, 2005 | 18m, 5 | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ The Real Rainbow Unicorn
Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked. Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade. PAL: Zac Trembath-pitham, Oskar Kindbom & Steve Kloske, 2013 | 18m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
V0 | ★ Duck's Nuts
Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up. | 5m | Halls Gap Area | ||
16 | ★ Absolute Zero
Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off. Hardest part is the start. Just beware of your poor belayer if you can't make it to the first clip! Long fall to the path. The large block on the right, one used to gain the stance & 1st clip, has now come off. This means the route is now a couple of grades harder and riskier. One has to negotiate the crux unprotected. Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014. PA: Heinz Buscher & Gina Peters, 2011 | 15m, 4 | Mt Ngungun | ||
16 | ★ Crackle
Has seen a few fatalities, and not a great choice if its at your limit because you have to fiddle to get gear in the middle of the hardest climbing to protect a runout. A #5 camalot will help up high. Belay off UBs near the tree roots and on the boulder, not off the tree. PA: W.Williams & L.Thompson, 1974 | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★ Hadrian
One move wonder, but still ok. Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'. The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner. PA: Peter McKeand & Andrew Thomson, 1971 | 12m | Werribee Gorge | ||
16 | ★ Green Moon
First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse. PA: Neil Monteith, 2012 Equip: Neil Monteith, 2012 | 17m, 6 | Mt Stapylton Campground | ||
16 | ★ Roger Bourne Identity
Up the dark crimpy slab. Really awesome !! Best of the 3 routes on the dark slab. PA: Dirty "roger" Dude, 2009 | 16m, 6 | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||
16 | ★ New Day Rising
A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a BR and two FHs to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final BR to a DBB. PA: Dani Geraghty & Saul Squires, 1993 | 15m, 3 | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Kamikaze
Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm... Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'. PA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Grandma's Wheelchair
Past Python, on LHS of cave. Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted. PA: Dave Humphries | 10m, 4 | Bangor West | ||
16 | ★ Unzip
Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94. | 13m, 5 | The Paradiso | ||
16 | ★ Split Images
The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so add a grade or two if you start that way. Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall PA: Matt Brooks & Daniel Brooks, 1991 | 20m, 2 | Camels Hump | ||
16 | ★ Bloody Oath
Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO". PAL: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Professor Wigginsworth's Chunder Bucket
Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block. Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14! Protection: Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple) Carrots: 3 Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles. PA: Craig D. Martin & Craig B. Martin, 1983 | 20m, 3 | Barrenjoey | ||
16 | ★ Slime Fresh
Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF". Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'. PA: Eddie Irvine, 1984 | 18m | Kangaroo Point | ||
16 | ★ Cold Fusion
Start 2m right of ICSJ. Easily climb up to ledge, before it steepens and moves left across face on rings to a blank and intimidating finish. There are two options after the 6th? bolt. Either move left and up blankish looking wall (grade 21) or move right onto MD and finish up that. Both are good. PA: Herb Brandmeier & Paul Wright, 2000 | 25m | Brooyar | ||
16 | ★ Kims
PA: Kim McKeown, 1994 | 10m, 4 | Nowra | ||
16 | ★ Blow Dry
The left side of the juggy orange streak. Equip: Jason Lammers PA: Jason Lammers, Viona Young & Wade Stewart, 2 En 2015 | 15m, 6 | Blue Mountains | ||
16 | ★★★ The Pintle Left Hand Variant
Start at the belay ledge at the top and left of Pintle Pitch one. Layback crux at the start and some spicy slab climbing with fiddly pro. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Offset nuts and smallish cams are handy. Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze. PA: Kevin Lindorff, Andrew Collins & Kieran Loughran, 1982 | 70m, 3, 1 | Mount Buffalo | ||
16 | ★ Frustration and Contempt
Weird and slopey. If it seems harder than 16, you are probably doing something wrong. PA: Jim Truscott & Matt Rosser, 2001 | 25m, 6 | Mountain Quarry | ||
16 | ★★ Saracen
1
16
35m
2
13
12m
3
16
33m
4
13
34m
The first and third pitches are good. It's best to run pitches 1 and 2 or 2 and 3 together, then you get two good, long pitches followed by an easy pitch off. Start below and L of the big overhangs, on the lower section of Dunes Buttress, at a layback crack.
PA: Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger & Chris Baxter, 1967 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★ Rose Ramble
| 22m | Freycinet National Park | ||
16 | ★★ Fat Wall Ordinaire Banana Blasé
Rap down the route (fixed hangers 10m right facing out of the hang-gliding ramp.) Layback your way up the stylish flake, step right to crack and delicately up. PA: Kevin Lindorff, Giles Bradbury, Geoff Gledhill & Glenn Tempest, 1977 | 30m | Mount Buffalo |