Vías en Sudáfrica para grado seleccionado

This variation is completely independent from Pin Up. From the thin flake above the roof, move left and up the thin crack to the traverse. Move left and exit on thin holds.

Start to the right of Leguan, beneath the obvious left-facing open book.

1. 55m, 22 Climb up and left until able to traverse right to the base of the book. Climb the corner to a platform at the top.

2. 60m, 16 Start on the right side of the platform. Climb up the blocks, step left and up then traverse left to a gulley. Up this to a tree. Climb the fun corner behind the tree, step left to the arête at the top. Climb this ridge to the summit.

Ascends the flake crack 4m left of RASP.

1. 25m 22 Fingery laybacking to slight break. Move right to shake-out rest at keyed-in block. Layback flared crack above to the RASP stance.

Takes the break 1 to 2m left of 'Cream Team'. Start 2m left of 'Cream Team' undercut base.

1. 15m 22 Climb a smooth slab to a bottomless cubbyhole beneath a roof. Pull through to a fin. Climb the crack up to the steep wall above, finally stepping right and using the arete to top out.

The vague arête just right of Skeletium Skank. Tricky start followed by lovely, but slightly runout climbing.

On the left side of the amphitheatre. Starts 100m lower than other routes. Only route to climb the headwall above the escape ledge.

Climbs the wall to the left of 'Short Circuit' / 'Circuit-Breaker'.

1. 30m 22 Start as for 'Circuit-Breaker' and instead of traversing right, climb 2m up the crack and continue straight up the wall about 3m left of 'Circuit-Breaker'.

Scramble up about 30m to an obvious ledge that cuts across most of the face (or climb the first pitch of William Tell to gain the ledge). Follow the ledge out right until you see a cairn marking the start of the route. The route starts up an undercut and overhanging face with many sidepulls and good edges. A pumpy start.

1. Step up and gain the face using sidepulls. Continue straight up, passing a thin rail and up to a higher rail beneath a roof. Rail out left for about 5m until able to pull up onto the face above. Either face climb or use a crack just to your right to gain a hanging stance beneath a roof and bulging black streak.

2. From the stance, move right and climb up using a large block and juggy break to a rail beneath a roof and the bulging black streak. Follow the thin vertical seam bordering the right hand side of the black streak (crux). Easier climbing leads to the top.

Trad line just right of 'The Loan Arranger'.

On the west-facing wall to the right are 3 cracks. The left one goes at about 15. The seam in the middle is this one. Vertical but tricky - may be 22 for tall dudes.

Takes the break up the centre of the wall behind ISOLATION PINNACLE.

1. 15m 22 Climb up to and negotiate the relatively featureless corner (crux) before climbing the finger crack and continuation off-width crack in the dihedral above.

This route is just right of Yellowwood Crack and the outstanding feature is the large overhang on the 5th pitch. The overhang is climbed with nothing less that perfect hand jambs and is well protected with cams.

1. 20 45m. Start at the small cairn and scramble 5 metres to the overlap. Step up onto the cantilevered block and place a bomber green alien. Balance up to the rail and move left to climb up the face. Continue up the more or less obvious line to stance with Extra Time.

2. 20 45m Climb up over dodgy flakes to a rail. Step left and climb up easily for a few meters. Place a good cam or two and do a crank up to a sloping hold and move left and up to the overhang. Climb diagonally up to the right to below another overhang. Rail under this on dodgy shattered rock to exit on the left. (Extra Time exits it on the right.) Climb the reachy dihedral to a stance.

3. 20m 15 Walk left and climb the easy right facing corner to a ledge. Walk left past the starts of Fine Time and Extra Time 3rd pitches and then continue left to a stance in a cave by crouching along a narrow ledge.

4. 30m 21 Climb up the left slanting chimney crack (good pro) until you are able to swing round onto the face. Climb bold moves up and right to the arete. There is a spike of rock which you can place a sling for pro. Climb easily up the face to a decent ledge and stance.

5. 25m 23 Climb easily up to the overhang and place some good cams. (Bear in mind that your second will curse you if you place them too deep!) Turn the overhang on perfect hand jambs. Place a small cam on the right to keep the ropes from jambing in the crack at the lip. Continue up the corner to a large sloping stance.

6. 25m 19 Step left and climb an impeccable recess to the "walk-off" ledge.

7. 30m 21

Climb up onto the blocks on the right and with an awkward start climb the cracks to a ledge. Place a large cam and turn the overhang with a reach crank. Continue easily to the large ledge system.

1. 45m 16 Climb the grey weather rib just to the right of the gully until one can step across to the left wall. Continue on easy weathered grips to the top.

Gear. Standard rack. No RP's needed. For convenience double up on 1/4, 1/2, 1, 1.5 inch cams.

Descent. Head left to the Timerity abseil.

A direct line, with interesting pitches and the occasional run-out. With some more cleaning, it will be a 4-star route.

Access

Walk along the Right Face Arrow Face traverse. On the climbers left of the tunnels is a low roof ±15m up. Higher up, there is a long roof about 30m up. Start ±20m to the left of the left end of this higher roof, at a point below an off-width crack 20m above the path. Cairn next to the path at the base of the climb.

1. 25m (17) Follow a crack and short face to reach a small ledge. Continue up the face to the left of a small corner to a narrow chimney with an arête on the right side. Follow this to the off-width that was visible from the ground. Continue up to the ledge with a large sickle-shaped rock to belay on.

2. 25m (16) Climb the corner above and then a layback crack to a ledge. Head slightly left on a face and then easily up to a wide ledge. Walk ±6m right to the base of a clean corner crack.

3. 30m (22) Climb the corner and finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short right-arching crack until able to pull through the steep left wall to good holds below the left end of the roof. Traverse left over a vegetated ledge and onto a large block. Move up and right to an easy angled ramp. Head straight up to a small grassy ledge (this section is easy but a bit run out with one good rail for gear about 2m from the ledge). A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

4. 15m (17) Traverse left and then up to a long, wide edge. Continue left along this until a long pull gains good holds above, which are followed straight up to a broad ledge (sparse gear). Walk right ±5m to a break in the lower overhang that runs across the back of the ledge.

5. 20m (17) Pull up to a wide rail and reach over the roof to good holds. Traverse left ±3m and then straight up until able to move easily left onto the big ledge with a tree at the base of a wide chimney. A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

6. 35m (21) To the right of the wide chimney is a left-leaning ramp with good holds, which is slightly separate from the face to the right. Follow the ramp for a few meters and step right onto a narrow ledge. Head straight up the edges on the face above to the next horizontal break. Continue straight up to a large block under the roof. Step right and up to pass the roof, then go diagonally left up a low angle slab to some large pocket-type features. From here crank up until able to reach good holds above the slopers. Continue easily up the face to the next ledge at a point just left of the bushes. Stance directly below the roof crack above.

7. 25m (15) Climb the leftmost side of the juggy face above to the top.

An alternative finish is to blast straight through the roof crack at the top of pitch 6. This was opened in 2012 as the stand-alone pitch called 'No Horizon'

Pitch 2 is improbable and exposed.

1. Head up and right under the first small overlap, then straight up to a wide corner below the roof. Rail right and up to the ledge via a tricky move (right of the wedged block in the ceiling).

2. Pull onto the upper tier on the left side of a low overhang. Head up and right to the main roof. Pull through to a good hand rail, move left and pull up to the wall above, then easily up and right to the top.

Start on a large block right behind the water point. Jump for a good rail and then follow the crack system up and through two recesses on the left. Rap from a nut/chock anchor (<30m) at the good rail where the rock (quality) above deteriorates.

A meter right of the route After Taxes is a juggy crack. Climb this, pull through a small overhang and head straight through the middle of the somewhat blank-looking face above. NOTE: This is a bold route to lead. Small cams recommended.

Originally an old aid route opened by Colin Shuttleworth called Wobble. Start at the flake to the right of Pin Up.

Climb the flake to the rail. Continue up the face via a hidden hold on the right to another rail with a peg. Move one metre right and then up past another peg to the top rail. Traverse right onto the good foothold (ie onto Granny’s) and then pull up until able to stand on the rail. Do one move left and finish.

An old classic following a diagonal rib of quartz.

P1 is normally climbed as a stand alone pitch and is a strong contender for the best single pitch at Paarl. P2 has no pro, is dirty and dangerous!

1. [5 Bolts & +-15 Slings], Climb the amazing diagonal rib using a combination of bolts and slings used to hook the large quartz jugs.

2. Continue following the chute / groove to the top (no pro). There is a halfway stance on the first pitch for abseiling.

The roof crack bounding the downstream side of the top of the BULLIT buttress. Scramble and climb to the highest ledge on the buttress i.e. the ledge from which BULLIT's final pitch starts.

1. 20m 23 Climb up easily leftwards to the corner-crack leading to the roof. Trickily up this crack, then out right along the roof crack to the lip.

1. [22] 15m

   Start about 5m to the left of 'Hyperadrenia', under a very steep, shallow open book. Climb directly up the open book to the stance shared with 'Donkerhoek Face'.

2. [20] 22m

   As for 'Hyperadrenia'.

Start: This route starts on the "D" route ledge about 6m left of Valken Corner. As such the route can be approached from several ways, but the easiest would be doing the Valken D route, however Valken Corner would be a more fitting start.

1. Climb a tricky recess leading to an old peg of Valken Needle. Move slightly right through a small overhang, then up a clean crack. Continue diagonally left up the blunt rib to the top.

Climb the obvious off-width crack as one enters the Happy Acres Cave. A fighting pitch of considerable merit and suitable for the whole family. Take along 4 friends in the range #3.5 to #4.

Starts on same ledge as GOOFPROOF ROOF, 10m to the right of GOOFPROOF ROOF where the overhang is at its biggest (small cairn).

1. 15m 22 Jump for hand hold on wall on right, and pull up on jugs until face level with roof. A vague rail enables you to move left to very good jugs at the lip. A long snatch for holds high above the roof, followed by an easy open book above up to ledge with small tree belay. Scramble off up to the left at grade 17.

Note: A #1 friend is useful for protection at the lip of the roof.

[trad, A] Located left of the ominous tiny cave with hourglass shaped cracks above it. An overhanging crackline with really good holds making for some really good climbing. There is a thinner crack line on this same face to the right.

Climb the first pitch of No More Bells up to the big ledge. From here the route follows an independent line close to the right edge of the buttress climbed by No More Bells. The route starts about 6m to the left of the massive gulley dividing the two faces of the Castle, and 8m below and just right of two square, stepped roofs. Belay in front of a two meter wide detached flake.

1. 36m, 19. Starting at the cairn, climb the crack leading up to right-hand edge of the two stepped roofs. Break through leftwards (strenuous) using an undercling hold on the right-facing corner in the overhangs and up through the roofs. Continue up the crack, at one point choosing either a left or a right crack up to a semi-hanging stance on a few gargoyles. Stance at the right side of the buttress close to the edge of the gulley just left of a small roof below the middle crack going through the overhanging rock.

2. 20m, 19. The overhanging crack awaits an ascent. Climb the crack left of the overhanging crack using holds on left, then up and rightwards with some strenuous moves towards the continuation of the right-hand crack (it is possible to step right earlier to an obvious undercling hold, and continue up the crack from there). Continue climbing this through overhanging rock up into easier terrain trending right. Stance on a series of small ledges on the arête.

3. 20m, 20. Climb the easy cracks facing into the gulley up to the left end of a long narrow roof, where you can break through using jams and/or laybacks (the No More Bells crux on pitch 4 is just around the corner to the left). Continue climbing for a few metres and stance (semi-hanging) 5m higher up close to the arête and about 4m below the next roof.

4. 50m, 22. Climb up leftwards around the roof (airy move). Proceed up the crack via a series of rails, which includes a harder move. When the crack closes out, delicately step out right a few metres across a slabby face to a small left-facing corner. Pull up on thin holds (crux; and gear a little sparse). From here the grade eases and it is possible to scramble up to the finishing ledge (where No More Bells ends) just below the summit overhang.

A direct line, with interesting pitches and the occasional run-out. With some more cleaning, it will be a 4-star route.

Access

Walk along the Right Face Arrow Face traverse. On the climbers left of the tunnels is a low roof ±15m up. Higher up, there is a long roof about 30m up. Start ±20m to the left of the left end of this higher roof, at a point below an off-width crack 20m above the path. Cairn next to the path at the base of the climb.

1. 25m (17) Follow a crack and short face to reach a small ledge. Continue up the face to the left of a small corner to a narrow chimney with an arête on the right side. Follow this to the off-width that was visible from the ground. Continue up to the ledge with a large sickle-shaped rock to belay on.

2. 25m (16) Climb the corner above and then a layback crack to a ledge. Head slightly left on a face and then easily up to a wide ledge. Walk ±6m right to the base of a clean corner crack.

3. 30m (22) Climb the corner and finger crack to a ledge. Continue up the short right-arching crack until able to pull through the steep left wall to good holds below the left end of the roof. Traverse left over a vegetated ledge and onto a large block. Move up and right to an easy angled ramp. Head straight up to a small grassy ledge (this section is easy but a bit run out with one good rail for gear about 2m from the ledge). A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

4. 15m (17) Traverse left and then up to a long, wide edge. Continue left along this until a long pull gains good holds above, which are followed straight up to a broad ledge (sparse gear). Walk right ±5m to a break in the lower overhang that runs across the back of the ledge.

5. 20m (17) Pull up to a wide rail and reach over the roof to good holds. Traverse left ±3m and then straight up until able to move easily left onto the big ledge with a tree at the base of a wide chimney. A #4 Camalot may be useful but is not essential.

6. 35m (20) Tricky gear. Traverse right on the narrow ledge 5 meters up and over a slanted, squeeze type feature to a huge jug. Pull up to a smooth ledge with succulents growing at the back (but avoid the dangerous loose boulder to the left). Pull up and right, and then slightly back left to the low angle slab just over the roof and continue as per the direct pitch. Scramble right and up to a small platform below the final face.

7. 25m (15) Climb the leftmost side of the juggy face above to the top

An alternative finish is to blast straight through the roof crack at the top of pitch 6. This was opened in 2012 as the stand-alone pitch called 'No Horizon'

Hiking Approach:

Start from the Newlands Forestry Station by walking to the south to gain the steep jeep track only-just in Kirstenbosch Gardens. Hike up the track to gain the contour path at approximately 400m ASL. Turn right (to the north) on the contour path. Continue over a short section of wooden boardwalk. A short distance beyond, turn a left corner to encounter a jumbled scree slope of big boulders. The Fernwood Gully stream is a few metres further on. Hike up the streambed, including a section where the stream disappears underground, and go up leftwards to find the streambed again. Continue until the streambed ends in a dense jungle. Use a 15m tunnel up to the right to get through the jungle. Head up leftwards up steep slopes and then conglomerate boulders to then clear the forest. Traverse the steep slopes to the left to gain the streambed in the well-formed Fernwood Gully. Head up the gully and waterfalls, sometimes using the slopes to the right, for a long way until ending at the base of the enormous wall. Begin three pitches of gully climbing in the extreme left of the gorge by climbing through trees and then into the open gully. The third pitch finishes with a section of worrying looking decaying stone that can be climbed safely. Alternatively, it can be bypassed on the right by climbing up the gully. Traverse across to the big Graveyard Ledge on the left, 20m below the Long Thin Overhang.

Abseil Approach:

Take the cable car then hike to Maclear’s Beacon and then down Smuts’ Track towards Kirstenbosch. At the first big plateau 80m lower down one is level with the top of Wormhole Buttress and Fernwood Face. A 10m tall rocky outcrop is found to the left of the path. At this point leave the Smuts Track and follow vague paths towards the summit of Fernwood Buttress about 500m to the south-east. Immediately before heading uphill to the summit turn left into a shallow valley and walk down it into the pine forest. Bear left to arrive in a beautiful campsite under an overhanging rockface about 7m tall. In front of the campsite walk 15m downslope between the pines to arrive at the precipice. A metre or two above the lowest level is a little ledge on the left with a little rock promontory to its left. Hold on the good handholds to peer 30cm around the corner to encounter the top of the abseil route that goes all the way to the bottom of the cliff.

Abseil 1 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack and not much else. Abseil to the broken ledge 12m down. Keep to the north (Protea Buttress side) of the Rocky Tower and go over the edge of the grassy slope. Place a couple of directional pieces of gear to keep the line tending northwards to gain 3m in that direction on the descent, and to stay in on the mountain. Get to the lip of a huge roof underneath where a section of steel-grey rock meets white rock in a vertical line. Progressively place three directionals (small cams) below the roof to gain the big ledge four metres lower. Traverse easily to the next abseil point which is visible six metres along the ledge to the north. The lead abseiler must provide a ‘fireman’s belay’ to the second belayer who will remove the directionals and each time will ‘ping’ out into space. The second abseiler should use a locking abseil device like a Micro Jul or make use of a prussik. The second abseiler should have the haul-bag directly attached to the belay loop via a quickdraw.

Abseil 2 50m:

The lead abseiler must descend with the rack. This abseil does not do a diagonal, but as it is over-vertical, directionals are required. Abseil to the big ledge with the beautiful Rooi Els tree. The next abseil point is one metre from the tree. Most parties will spend a night on this very attractive ledge on the south (Muizenberg) side of the tree.

Abseil 3 60m:

The lead abseiler must place one or two directionals below the big roof halfway down so as to avoid being stranded a metre or two out in space at the next abseil point.

Abseil 4 50m:

The fourth abseil gets the team to the Graveyard Ledge. After passing the Long Thin Overhang either place directionals to the south to land on the Ledge (first abseiler to belay rope), alternatively, continue into the gully and then swing/scramble across the gap to get onto the Graveyard Ledge.

Start:

The route begins on the Graveyard Ledge approximately in the mid-point of the Long Thin Overhang at a small cairn. The route begins up a natural break approximately 15m from the Gully.

1. 25m 20:

   Climb the natural break and horizontal rails most of the way to the ledge, then rail out right for a few metres and then up to the ledge. Walk right to stance near the end of the ledge at a cairn.

2. 30m 22:

   Place important cams in the roof of the Long Thin Overhang before climbing around it to the right. Climb up to the next roof and then rail out left and around the corner for another six metres to an opportunity to stand. At this point one is back above the start of the route. Climb the crack for 10m and then do a slightly runout section to a small seated stance for one.

3. 15m 21:

   Climb up diagonally to the right to the obvious little three-finger pocket in the white wall. Step right and then go up to the ledge 4m above. Climb up diagonally to the right to regain a ledge at an abseil point.

4. 35m 22:

   Climb straight up to the rail and then go right for a couple of metres. Climb up the immaculate and sustained wall for 20m towards the big roofs, passing two ancient pitons while wending your way up. Climb diagonally up towards the left to intersect the band of highly-weathered rock. Continue diagonally up across the narrow, vegetated gully and continue in this direction for a few more metres to get to a comfortable little ledge with seating for one.

5. 35m 22:

   Climb the beautiful white and streaky wall diagonally up to the right for a few metres and then continue up black streaks on white rock until forced to step right across the void into a bottomless chimney. Continue up the chimney until able to regain the steep white wall on the left for the last six metres to the Rooi Els Ledge.

6. 30m 22:

   Climb up directly from the Rooi Els and continue straight up the break until forced to go out left for a couple of metres. Head up angling to the right and then traverse out right across a steep slab and then up to the right to gain a ledge.

7. 17m 21:

   Start a metre to the left of the arete and climb the bulging wall. Head up and then diagonally left to get to the ledge called Traverse of the Eagles (named by the 1966 party that opened Fernwood Precipice Direct) and a point on the abseil route.

8. 20m D:

   Traverse left under the huge roof until beyond it. Stance just before the start of the tan brown rock at the end.

9. 35m 23:

   Reverse a few metres along the Traverse of the Eagles and then climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break immediately adjacent to the huge roof. Do a tenuous traverse to the right across the steep and exposed slab for a metre-and-a-half (just above the lip of the huge roof) to gain a vertical break. Do very thin slab climbing for 5m to a rail. This section is protected by a Rock 1 or equivalent small wire. Do a footless fingertips rail to the right until able to stand around the corner. Climb up and leftwards for 3m to the small roof then move a metre left and climb the overhanging crack/knobbly break. Continue up for 6m to a roof and pull through it going slightly leftwards. Four metres higher traverse a metre or two to the right to gain a chimney. Climb the chimney to a grassy ledge. Scramble up to stance on top of the rocky tower on the left.

10. 15m 20:

    Move a couple of metres left, climb the corner and then the wall on the left and then finish up the bottomless chimney.

A great line, probably the best at the crag.

Head up and right under the first small overlap. Continue diagonally right to a jam crack through a small roof. Pull past two more rails and then right to exit onto the ledge.

Takes some golden bulges and a wild roof just right of ‘Ice Tea’. Scramble up one level and find a beach/cave with a diving board (cairn) that offers footing to an undercut start. (Level with the first stance of 'Ice Tea')

1. [19] 25m

   Step off the diving board onto the wall, up to the roof, traverse right to the thinnest part of the roof, and then continue up to the following ledge.

2. [23] 30m

   An undercut start off of a big horn (there used to be two horns). Continue slightly right past some rails to the golden bulges, and climb the right-most crack. Continue up finger cracks on the right and carry on straight up to exit the crux. Continue up for another 10m.

3. [21] 25m

   Aim for the obvious 3m roof with an apparently off-width break. Jam inside the crack, stretch for jugs on the left lip and make a mind-bending cutloose to finish on easy territory. Stance 5 – 10m above the lip.

4. [18] 50m

   Straight, and follow the most appealing line to the top.

Directly in between Folsom Prison Blues and Pounce. Start up the undercut face on thin rails and head up directly to the large roof. Proceed through the roof for about 2m using the thin vertical finger crack in it. Cut loose and head up the splitter crack directly above. Continue up faces to the top.

A tougher finish to the already pumping Hallucination. From the good rail near the top, head slightly left and up to a small overlap. Finish straight up.

Climb the left-hand side of the flake past 3 bolts, finishing up the crack.

This climb is situated directly opposite the huge rotten recess which separates the BULLIT and SPACEWALK buttresses. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge. Start about 6m downstream of RASP. A pentagonal roof lurks 12m above.

1. 20m 23 Climb a thin crack to an incipient block. Gain the base of the flared recess with difficulty and climb up to the roof. Exit left and climb more easily to beneath an overhang cut by an off-width crack.

2. 10m 22 Climb the crack.

A variation of 'The Great Dog Detective'.

1. [23] 5m From the first bolt continue straight up to the rail without traversing. Exit right at the rail.

Start just to the left of lightning bird, a boulder problem to the ledge, rap off the tree.

Start from the stance at the end of THE JOURNEY.

1. 23 Break through the right hand edge of the roof. Climb to the chains above.

The route is situated on the overhanging face immediately right of the lower swimming pool above the last waterfall. i.e. about 10m upstream of 'Castle Gorge Corner' and starts at a recess with a small tree growing in it about 15m up. It follows a line through the two lower overhangs to the top. The route was pre-practiced on top rope.

1. 40m 23 Start at the base of the recess and climb up to the tree and then diagonally left to the roof (last resting place). Climb through the roof using the flake immediately above, and move immediately right to a mantelshelf move (crux). Climb up to the roof above and through on thin holds. Climb up to the final roof and traverse left to easier rock directly below the roof.

Note: The crux move can be protected by a Hex no 11 about a meter below the bottom roof in the recess and a Hex no 6 directly under the roof at the resting point mentioned. These protections are both bomb-proof and protect the leader from cratering from the crux. A friend no 2.5 can also be placed above the roof immediately below the crux (with difficulty). No runner should be placed behind the flake, as this would not reduce the fall factor markedly, and break the flake. The rest of the route can be protected easily.

On the south face of the boulder. The slab with two bolts right of the big chimney crack. Take along a #2 friend.

A route up the centre of the wall, immediately opposite BLADE RUNNER.

1. 25m 23 Climb up the centre of the wall to gain the crack. Climb the crack exiting to a tree on the right.

Start about 50m to the right of the first pitch of No More Bells and about 6m left of a massive block lying below a series of brown overhangs. The route starts below a small, vegetated left-facing corner.

1. 35m, 22. Climb up two meters and where it starts getting vegetated, move right, over the arête, onto the slab and via some thin moves up to a downward facing prong. Climb up and slightly left through the break in the roof (crux). Climb the grey face above and into the arching line of weakness then up to a big ledge.

2. (off the big ledge): 35m, 23. Climb hard layback crack in the left facing corner for about 8m. Pull into the open book below a triangular roof. Climb through right hand side of the roof and further up the crack. Move diagonally left onto a knobbly face and then up to a triangular vegetated ledge.

3. 25m, 17. From the belay ledge move 2m up and slightly left onto another small ledge. Pull directly up past a small loose flake onto a second ledge in front of some large stacked flakes just left of a left-facing corner. Move right on the ledge and then climb up the flakes moving left toward the top of the upper flake. Traverse left and stance roughly in the middle of the ledge (cairn), below a long narrow roof.

4. 45m, 20. Pull through the middle of three breaks in the small roof and climb straight up to another small roof. Pull through into a flaring crack. Continue up to a third roof where you move a metre left and up a juggy break. Tending slightly right, climb up the centre of the grey wall to a left-facing corner and (at about 40m) as that crack closes out traverse out a few metres right up a sloping crack onto a little belay ledge.

5. 45m, 19. From the small stance climb up leftwards for 3 to 4 meters and up towards a narrow roof. Traverse right to access twin cracks. Climb up these onto the grey face above. Trend leftwards until you reach a big ledge. Climb the face just left of a left-facing corner trending left and then straight up through the open book above. Pull up onto a small ledge and then move higher to stance on a block about 5 meters below the massive rectangular overhang.

6. 15m, 21. Climb up the left-facing open book up to the large roof. Using hand/fist jams (or the hidden rail in roof) rail right around the corner until below an off-width crack. Now you just have a few meters of strenuous squirming to putting Fire-start behind you. Enjoy.

This interesting and quite hard route ascends the face directly below the only prominent overhanging prow. Move directly up and through two sets of overhangs on strenuous and gymnastic moves using large cams for protection. End at a nice platform. Originally the route had 2 pitons which were removed in 2010, after consensus that the route could be adequately protected.

Easiest approach along Arrow Face Right Face traverse. Abseil point from the cherry tree below enormous detached feature mid traverse. Abseil down for the first 2 pitches from “base camp”. 50m rope just adequate.

1. [21] 20m Climb break in the centre of the wall in line with the abseil to a ledge.

2. [20] 30m Climb the short wall above through the roof. Up cleaned rock, slightly right at the small overhang, pull through and diagonally left to the cherry tree.

3. [12] 15m Scramble on the outside of the anvil-shaped feature and left to the tip.

4. [22] 25m From the tip of the anvil rail 1m left and climb straight up. Up the slab above to a thin crack break above small overlap. Up this, up to a higher rail to rest on the right under another small overhang. Up to the small ledge above on the left.

5. [22] 15m Straight up to the corner leading to the roof. Move left until an undercling and footholds enable one to reach above the overhang. Up the wall on the left to a ledge.

6. [22] 30m Walk 15m left to a corner leading to a rail through the roof. Climb up and left to the blunt arete. Straight up this. Continue in a straight line to chain on a big block in the middle of the bushy ledge.

7. [22] 40m Start 5m to the left on a white arete. Climb up on the pockets, up the break above tending left to below the obvious undercut chimney feature. Puzzle this out and finish at a chain just above.

8. [16] 40m Up 5m to a ledge. Walk left and climb the juggy wall to the top.

On the same level on the ledge to the right is a chain abseil point. 4 abseils off chains around blocks take you back to the traverse line.

A steep route out of the centre of the cave.

Starts on a boulder in the middle of the cave.

Pull up and move left until able to head straight up to the roof. Traverse left and finish up Café Caprice.

Pitch 2 offers a wild, pumpy, and exposed roof, while pitch 3 has excellent climbing on some vertical cracks.

1. 45 m (19) Start 3m right of Cosy Corner Direct below a large layback crack. Climb the layback, then step left to a short brown arete above the Cosy Corner Direct crack. Climb this, then easy rock to a dark brown face. Climb either crack in the centre of the face and stance at a blocky corner below the large roof system above and left.

2. 45 m (23) Move diagonally up and left on excellent rails heading towards the large horn (good sling point) in grey rock below the pocketed roof. Pull through the roof into the short peapod feature and onto the arete, and then head straight up on great holds to the huge ledge.

3. 30 m (21) Start as for Make Tea Not War in the left corner of the undercut face broken by several vertical cracks. Move right at the first horizontal rail, then diagonally up right staying below the level of MTNW. Pull up into a steep corner just right of a large, grey fin and left of a ledge. At the small overlap, move left and up to a rail under a narrow roof. Go right around the roof and then straight up the face to the top.

Start up Feline for a few moves then step right and arc up the face to a ledge. Straight up to the roof. Pull through the roof (minimal gear) and straight to top.

A harder finish to Hallucination that does not touch on Granny’s. From the top rail of Hallucination, move slightly right and then straight up to the finishing holds via a sloper.

Possibly the most sandbagged 22 you will ever ave the pleasure of dogging up!

To access this route, start the hike towards Belly Button sector. Continue around the rock face on a bushy "path" and around some big boulders. Scramble up towards a small forest with bigger trees. This gem will be to the left of the small forest.

1. Stem your way up. Note on gear: small/micro nuts and small cams. Nuts are the best choice given the depth of the crack.

The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite GABOOM. Start 8m downstream of KLOOF DESCENT group of large boulders.

1. 30m 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.

2. 10m 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.

Note: Which pitch is the catch?

The climb is situated on the true right-hand side of the kloof and takes the line through the roofs immediately right of 'Red Corner', to provide outstanding, sustained climbing on good rock with mind boggling exposure. The climbing is bold but protection is excellent.

1. [19] 18m

   The pitch starts on the extreme right hand side (upstream side) of the large ledge from which the climbing on 'Red Corner' also begins. Step right into the crack and move up to a small cubbyhole below a small roof. Make committing moves through this and onto the steep face above. Move up left to the large roof and make delicate moves left onto good jugs, then pull up onto a small ledge in a cubbyhole. (The stance is at the same point where one steps right before moving up to the roof on 'Red Corner'.)

2. 25m 22 From the stance move up onto the arete 4m left of 'Simian Street'. Climb the arete to the roof, pull strenuously through and continue up the short crack in the corner above to another roof. Move right around this onto a small ledge. Climb the short crack up the face immediately above, scarily to the top to gain a massive big ledge.

Start as for LOST TRIBE (about 10m right of the central break).

1. 40m 23 Follow LOST TRIBE for a few metres until it veers off left. Continue up the layback crack until it ends. Traverse right and up to gain a recess leading to easy ground which is followed to a ledge.

2. 40m 20 Climb up leftwards and pull through the roof at a crack. Continue left and up to gain LOST TRIBE's long hand crack/recess. Climb the crack and exit left to belay on a long narrow ledge (LOST TRIBE moves right slightly lower down).

Where to now? Either rap off, traverse right and scramble as for LOST TRIBE, or traverse left for about 25m and climb LOOK SHARP 's flake. Alternatively, the brave may traverse further left to gain an interesting recess which leads to slabs, ledges, corridors and pillars.

Notes:

1. The first ascentionists took the last option described above to top out. Only the VERY brave should try it.

This route shares the start of 'The Joy' but takes a vertical line above the flake.

1. 35m 23 Take off as for 'The Joy', continue straight up left of the lichen and top out through the roof.

Notes:

1. Don't place any protection behind the flake or sling it, as it won't take a lead fall.

2. The pitch was done once on top rope before being led.

A 60m ab gets you back down. The first ascentionists were UK climbers of the 'Hot Rock Global Challenge Team'.

The obvious thin crack line left of 'Something Under the Bed Is Drooling'.

Start 5m left of HYDRA just before the head of the PHOENIX subkloof.

1. 20m 22 Climb the layback type crack, past a peg at 4m to a block (crux). Move slightly left and up onto easier rock ending just right of the large roof.

Note: This route was kindly prepared by S Kelsey. Perhaps "Steel" should read "Steal".

Climb any first pitch up to the big ledge. The route starts about 15m to the right of Fire-start’s second pitch up a left-facing orange corner with a beautifully parallel, curved layback crack.

1. 15m, 22. Climb curved crack (crux moves) up into a small roof topped by a big hollow-sounding flake positioned vertically in the crack. Depending on your level of daring, either climb directly through the roof on the flake, or first traverse out right onto the face, up a few metres and then back into the crack above the flake. Climb a few more metres to a tiny stance on the left about 5 m below a small, narrow roof.

2. 18m, 19. Climb to the left edge of the roof and traverse out left onto and up rounded holds for about 5 metres (protection sparse but available), before traversing right back onto the face (delicately move around the corner using pockets to place gear). Continue up crack to a sloped ledge on rounded holds. Move 2 metres right and climb up to the bottom left-hand corner of the massive dark grey block clear.

3. 25m, 16. From belay climb up some bare-looking rock to two good holds, then reach through to a good hold at the bottom of a slightly flaring crack, climb the crack up to a little roof, where one can step out right onto a flake sticking out from the massive grey block. Climb up trending left to about 8 m below the long, narrow roof and then traverse to the far left to belay on top of long loose-looking blocks just below the roof.

4. 25m, 21. Climb up left to the roof and pull through into the left-facing corner. Climb the layback crack for about 4m, before moving slightly right on thin holds over some blocks and upwards trending slightly rightwards to a long thing narrow ledge (sloping down leftwards).

5. 50m, 18. Roughly in the middle of the long narrow belay ledge climb up a smooth looking face on thin holds and continue up until you a narrow roof. Climb through this roughly in the middle just left of a thin crack which offers good protection, and continue straight up, passing left of a blocky roof near the top.

The second pitch is excellent!

1. From a block, head up and left across the slab to a mantle onto the ledge.

2. Pull up and left to good holds through the roof (will feel much harder than 22 if you don’t find the sneaky beta). Head diagonally left across the expose face to the top.

Micro’s are useful for this climb, especially the top half of the second pitch. Protection is good.

Start halfway between Drive on and Egg-Sucking Dog. Climb straight up to a long horizontal undercling and then straight through the slight roof to a pocket on the face. Pull up, and tend slightly left, staying just left of the crack at the top.

One of the most climbed routes in KwaZulu- Natal, and the "hard climbing" entrance exam for any aspirant rock star. It has always had a reputation as a tough 23.

Start three metres right of Hallucination and climb directly to the top. Avoid moving on to the ledge halfway up. The crux is protected by two adjacently placed pegs.

The start is 5m to the right of PERAMBULATING PUP beneath a bulging overhang. A thin crack starts in the bulge of the overhang and widens further up - to about 4 cm.

1. 20m 23 Start with a difficult move from the left to a good hand hold, and then move easily to the top.

Follows the left hand dihedral/crack system which cuts the crag immediately left of 'Monkey Music' and 'Pumping Gibbon'. Scramble up bushy grey rock to a small ledge at the base of the narrow lower dihedral.

1. [22] 30m Climb the dihedral and continue up to a rest below the final left-leaning open book. Traverse left and climb up to a good hold, then climb diagonally right towards the top of the open book, where an overhang is turned and easier rock is followed to the summit.

Note:

The protection on this pitch is sparse and unreliable.

Up the crack then left to the funky tufa feature. The Route is runout.

Start 5m right of LOST TRIBE. Scramble 5m.

1. Climb crack and climb past bolt and good RP 4 to block. Climb wall above to large ledge.

Notes:

1. The bolt is probably dubious by now. It was placed by Mr Cockburn after all.

Climbs the overhanging pink corner to the left of ?

1. [22/23] 20m Climb the awkward corner. Move right at the top. Be careful of wasps.

The object is the nice looking headwall up on the right. Start a few meters right of 'Moon Dreamer' and climb up to the headwall. Follow the neat line to the top.

Climbs the dihedral and crack system on the arete to the right of PHOENIX i.e. the route is situated between VALKYRIE and TYKES DELIGHT.

1. 25m 23 Pull up onto the base of the arete (as for TYKES DELIGHT). Climb leftwards to gain the dihedral system and follow this to the top.

Two mind-bending roofs and some stellar easier pitches. A very straight line.

Start: On the far right of the knight, (2nd last buttress on the chess-pieces) there is a scoop of compact orange rock beneath a 3m roof at 25m height. Start on a higher ledge at the left-hand side of this where the orange rock meets grey.

1. 22, 40m: Start up two orange recesses, step left and then straight up compact orange rock, past an unnerving grey flake to the roof and the apparently off-width crack that breaks the roof. Power through this, then cruise 10m up the giggle-jug-crack to stance on boat-anchors on the left.

2. 16, 35m: Straight up the steepest (vertical), dappled wall on a stellar pattern of seams and juglets. Eases off after 10m. Stance at the back of a fairly big ledge.

3. 15, 25m: Straight up the 8m, 20cm-wide crack on ears, laybacks and juglets. Continue straight. Upon gaining the ledge move 6m left.

4. 22, 30m: Up an easy crack system (the right of two) to the roof system just inside the right-hand corner of the buttress. Left then straight through the first dark overhang, a long stretch on some undercling crimps leads to good rails, and left into the twin cracks that break the roof. Establish in a stellar position on two ledgelets, then heel-hook, jam and crank up and continue to a stance.

5. 17, 20m: About 7m left of the right-hand skyline. (Should be 1m left of stance) Start on a pedestal, past a good rail to some thin moves (delicate) and to the summit.

This line takes the prow at the left hand end of the Black Wall buttress just above the gendarme abseil point.

1. Start on the left, about 2.5m below the base of a narrow corner, with a hairline crack at the back. Move up to a rail and right, where difficult moves gain arête at the top left side of the corner. Continue up on good holds to the face above. Traverse right, and then up featured rock to stance on top of a white ramp.

2. Move up and right. Tricky moves up to a horn, then pretty much straight up on excellent, grey rock to the top.