Vías en Sudáfrica para grado seleccionado

This climb starts from a u-bolt and hanger placed just right of the start of the last pitch of black magic. One can first do 'Black Magic' to warm up on or climb in from the 'Tried to Go to Heaven...' traverse from the right.

A long journey up a beautiful face.

Climb the arête but mostly stay on the pretty face right of 'Herman the German'. Avoid fondling the jugs of the neighbour around the corner and enjoy the secret crack!

The next crack right of 'Screaming Blue Messiah', about 4m right of the first corner. Quite runout but wonderful. Zap up to the chains. It is possible to access by rapping in from the tree on top.

Takes the groove just left of 'Roc Rally'. Consensus seems to have brought this climb down to 22 from 24!

Follow the bolts right of I drink, traversing slightly left on the slab to the large tree before the main head wall. Use the tree to get on to the headwall and follow the bolts left. Recommended to extend draws 6. Perma-draws as top anchors. 60m rope required.

Starts on the first section of 'Dreamer' then move right on the headwall. 80 meter rope required (or 70/60 meter gets you to lower off-chains).

3m right of the multi-stemmed tree (1-2m left of 'Nitro's Tick Fever'), start up the corner. A thin section gains the easier head wall

Extension of Shagadelic

History: old, partially bolted route with no hangers, no anchors, some bolts missing. Originator not located, so additional bolts, hangers and anchors added.

Long and sustained.

Starts up a diagonal seam from a ledge about 4m from the corner on the left of the face.

Direct start is 23/24 - height dependent.

Start on the same block as Glamorous Fool and climb the crack to the chains.

Name inspired by https://open.spotify.com/track/0rwDgOaQrc8gwP87zEB3kY?si=e9626205432e417a

More on the Tokoloshe

https://kevdieenglesman.wordpress.com/2012/01/31/hosh-tokoloshe/

‘Hosh Tokolosh’ translates to ‘Howzit Tokoloshe’

Trickier than it looks. Chains can be accessed from above.

Continue from the ledge with rap anchors onto the top section or break it into 2 pitches.

New route well indicated on the rock.

Start on the slab and follow the bolts on the main head wall traversing slightly right through the small roof crack system and on to the top face . Perma-draw top anchors. 60m rope required.

Starts on a small buttress almost touching the path 30m left of the 'Monster' cave. Blast through the roofs right of the massive wild fig tree. MCSA bolts

From the anchor at the end of pitch 2 of The Scorched Earth, climb straight up the groove rather than up and diagonally right. Abseil off.

1. ** 23, 22m Starts to the left of the elephant's trunk. On balance, small holds on a relatively smooth surface. Crux 1/3 of the way up, then straight forward to the top

2. ** 19, 23m Start right to avoid loose slab, then left under the boulder, continue left over dassie shit - worst section on this climb

3. * 18, 23m Starts from a small cave through which on can see under the elephant to the other side of the rock face. Route moves over to the left past the elephant's ear.

4. * 17, 22m Route moves directly up to just short of the top.

5. ** 15, 10m Short easy finish.

Short, but sure to get you pumped! Climbs an overhanging crack/corner. Bring your trad instincts for this one.

Start 2m right of the ledge.

Starts with an easy scramble about 10m left of Shortcut to Mushrooms. The first bolt is about 3m off the ground, scramble up carefully. Continues on a straight line through a cruxy roof to an easy end.

Face climbing can't get any better than this, long and technical. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

One bolt on the face takes you through the trees with funky moves onto the face above and to the top of the crag. A 60m rope is just long enough!

We have added quite a few new glue-in bolts for the run-out sections.

No anchors

Fear of open spaces! Shares first 3 clips with 'Gem Squash' then break right and onto the face straight through the imposing roof. You can make it 18 if you want to meander left along the tree and up the corner.

About 20 meters to the right of 'The Passion'

Alternative right hand start to 'Feline'.

Using the cracks to clear the bulge. Cross left over 'Shut Up and Die Like an Aviator' at a third way up at the shared ledge using hangers. Then it is all the business trying to keep your G-string clean!

Starts with some on-balance face climbing. Hard to spot the holds but not too bad once you have the sequence

The similarly enjoyable but slightly harder journey just right of 'Endless Summer'. Over 30m, tie a knot in the end!

Scramble up to the left of 'Diseased Mad Cow' to find the line on the inside arête, just outside the cave. Cruxy start then onto face above, try keep right towards chains.

Just to the right of My Precious

Excellent precision climbing through the low roof leads to a sustained face

A tough extension to The Travel Desk.

Shares the start with 'Breakfast in America'. Can be done in one long pitch, then lower off in two.

1. [19] 25m

2. [22] 15m

Starts below an obvious fin-like feature through some rock fig branches left of 'Jenga'. Take care of small sections with precariously loose looking rocks.

Moves rightwards out of the Wysiwyg corner onto the beautiful face at half height.

Tough start then climbing gets better, try to stay on direct bolt line. Easier to the right.

Share the first 3 bolts with Walk on By, then split to the right and continue on the 12mm bolts. Climb mostly on the right of the bolts until coming back left for the chains.

There was a tree, but the muggers came and chopped it down. Starts at the obvious hacked stump.

Technical face climbing with a thin crux. This climb is 30m+ long, be prepared to top out or bring an extra rope.

Start in a corner 12m right of 'Grunt'. Climb the crack, then onto ledge to traverse out right and through the roof onto the arête and up.

A new route, keep you posted

Powerful moves through the first roof lead to easier climbing before another puzzling crux

The chains of Disciplinary Hearing have been moved up and right - pushing the grade of that line up from 21 to 22/23.

Start steep under the overhang left of 'Miss Mckinley'.