Vías en Sudáfrica para grado seleccionado

Solo the arête.

Solo up from below the roof.

Scramble up to the first bolt at the roof where the route starts. Bust through the roof to the chains on interesting holds. Less whining more climbing!

A route up the centre of the wall, immediately opposite BLADE RUNNER.

1. 25m 23 Climb up the centre of the wall to gain the crack. Climb the crack exiting to a tree on the right.

Takes the smooth wall right of Tiny’s Toddle. Start at the right hand edge of the ledge and climb directly up past a peg and a bolt to exit slightly right. Friends ½ to 1½ are useful.

A multi-pitch route on the left side of the pass as you drive down toward De Pakhys campsite. There is a convenient layby you can park at and take the line of least resistance to walk up the slope. The route starts more or less in the middle of the wall on the darker brown rock near a left-facing recess with a roof a few meters up.

Some great climbing on the last two pitches, but shark infested territory lower down. Two abseils with 60m ropes get you back down.

Not much information on the climbing in this area. There was some ancient tat on the ledge after pitch 2 about 10m of pitch 2 stance so some climbing has been done on this wall before.

1. ±25m (21). Up the blocky features to the roof and pull through a break and step left to a small ledge. Head straight up past the right side of the low roof. To avoid getting into a pickle, embrace the surrounding fragility and tread lightly but confidently onwards until you reach a good rail. Move up and left to a vague recess which is followed to rail, traverse right to a small stance on a narrow ledge.

2. ±25m (18) Move up and slightly right from stance to stay on the most solid rock. More or less straight up to a ledge (rap tat around a touchpoint)

3. ±25m (19) From the stance, again head up more or less straight aiming for a wide horizontal break. Step right and pull up on improving rock quality to a neat ledge.

4. ±30m (22) Bester than sex pitch. Walk slightly right from the stance and romp up steep orange rock, tending ever so slightly right. Pull through the final narrow roof and up to a vegetated ledge - tat around a small tree.

Two abseils save a long walk so you are not too late for the party.

1. [20] 40m

2. [23] 35m

Start from a ledge to the right of a large dirty crack.

1. Climb the face slightly right then slightly left into a recess and up to a stance.

2. Climb up to a large ledge.

3. Walk left and climb the right side of the juggy wall.

4. Boulder up and climb leftwards through the arched roof.

5. Climb the scoop to a ledge and traverse right below a crack.

6. Climb the crack.

7. Climb up right through the overhang to a stance.

8. Climb up the break and fight through the offwitch. Pull through the overhang and finish up leftwards.

Deadpoint from the rail in the pillar to the obvious hold. Break left and exit through notch in the roof on to the juggy face.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

Starts about 10m right of the White Face pitch on the level of the Geo Cache Sector, below and just right of a corner with an ominous looking block hanging in the ceiling.

1. 25m (18) Start up the crack in the short face to a small overlap. Pull through on the right and then rail left to the corner. Move carefully upwards to a rail heading out left (this is below the hanging block in the roof). Traverse left and use a pointed foot prong to pull over the bulge (DO NOT USE THE SUSPENDED BLOCK IN THE ROOF). Continue up to the wide ledge finishing on the last few moves of White Face. Walk across the ledge to the base of a vague arete about 5m left of Wailing Wall P2.

2. 45m (22) Climb the arete and up to a short face. Negotiate this and then pull up on the left side of the roof. Continue up to easier ground. At a ledge step left onto a featured rock over a small overlap. Continue straight up towards a narrow corner capped by a thin roof. Exit ont he right side of the roof and up to the vegetated ledge.

There is an abseil point 5m right from a tree and touch point.

Climb the left-hand side of the flake past 3 bolts, finishing up the crack.

This climb is situated directly opposite the huge rotten recess which separates the BULLIT and SPACEWALK buttresses. Scramble up a few metres to a ledge. Start about 6m downstream of RASP. A pentagonal roof lurks 12m above.

1. 20m 23 Climb a thin crack to an incipient block. Gain the base of the flared recess with difficulty and climb up to the roof. Exit left and climb more easily to beneath an overhang cut by an off-width crack.

2. 10m 22 Climb the crack.

Climb the steep smooth face between Maidens Triumph & Phenominal Existence without using the corner on the left or crack on the right. The first move is especially hard for short climbers. Try avoid the left corner and crack on the right.

1. [19] 12m

2. [20] 20m

3. [16] 20m

4. [17] 25m

5. [22] 25m

Just left of the centre of the wall is a heavily pocketed roof at a height of about 8m. Some 10m left of this roof is a left facing corner crack. Start on the face below and left of this crack. Descent: To escape from here traverse 15m to the right passing behind a big flake into a gulley. Follow this back to the main access gulley where a 15m abseil takes one back down.

1. Climb the face to the left of the yellow patch and move into the corner crack. Climb this, then rail left until it is possible to pull through the left end of the double-tiered roof. Move back to the right along the lip until able to pull up into another crack which is followed to a stance in a recess with chicken heads.

2. Climb the layback crack above and then, at the gulley, step right and climb faces and cracks to a ledge.

Varied pitches and a tad committing on Pitch 1. Starts in the big corner left of Maidens Prayer.

1. 25 m (22) Climb the corner, with a wide crack at the back, to a small ledge. Pull up and left to a thin left tending crack. Just past a tiny roof, a vertical crack branches off. Follow this to a wide rail. Continue up and left aiming for the left side of the lowest section of the large roof. Head out along the side of the roof to ride the white surfboard (which gongs!). From here pull steeply up and left to where the angle eases. Continue up another 5m to a small stance.

2. 30 m (14) Head easily up to the large ledge, tending slightly right most of the way. Stance about 6m left of a vague arete on Sly and Slinky

3. 25 m (23) Pull up to a wide rail below a small roof about 3m up. Traverse left until the roof peters out. Pull up to a large oval hole (with an undercling inside). Thin, difficult moves past a small flake lead to a steep crack. Head up the crack and then traverse left at a thin rail to the break in main roof running across the wall. Head straight up to the next ledge. Walk about 10m left to below the boulder where Cosy Corner Direct starts.

4. 30 m (20) Pull up onto a little platform. A tricky move right gains a jam crack in a tube-like feature. Continue up and slightly right to the summit.

This route is a variation of Mean Eyed Cat and follows the line under the second roof towards the right (instead of simply exiting on the left and straight up). It offers superb and sustained roof climbing with great exposure as the slab used for feet turns vertical and drops away towards the end of the roof. The cam placings in the roof split offer good protection; exit the roof on good side-pull flakes and climb up and slightly right to a biggish head of rock over which slings can be hung for anchors. There are also several smaller placings just below the head which can be used for protection or as part of the anchor set-up.

Scramble up to the start of BAPM. On the orange face up and to the left of the candleflame is a bolt. Start 5m to the left of BAPM, below the obvious corner.

1. 35m 22R: Climb the corner to a small ledge. Traverse the orange face past the difficult-to-clip bolt (tricky), to the right arête. Climb straight up past another bolt to an overhang. Pull strenuously through the overhang on the right and diagonally up the ramp to the right in the groove above. Climb easily to a tree belay. Scramble to the base of BAPM's second pitch.

2. 22m 21 Climb the crack just to the left of BAPM until it peters out. Continue to the right and up past a bolt. Take care over the huge blocks and lichen and finish as for BAPM.

Notes:

1. There are rap bolts at the top. Need replacement leaver biners or maillons. One 60m rap puts you back on the ledge at the start of the route from where its straightforward to scramble down.

The route follows the face between 'Juniper Face' and 'Dassie Route'. It gains a ledge below a prominent overhang about 20m above the base and then surmounts the overhang via a V-groove.

1. 20m 22 Ascend a short face, directly below the prominent overhang to a ledge. Gain the next higher ledge by ascending the steep face via a thin crack to the right of the centre of the face (crux). This variation was done on a top rope by both members of the opening party.

2. 30m 15, A1 Ascend diagonally right to the overhang just below the V-groove. Place piton as high as possible in the groove and use it to move up into the groove and onto the face above the overhang. Continue upward to a large ledge.

3. 40m 13 Continue up face to large ledge.

4. 15m 9 Up easy rock to the top.

Variation 1a. 20m 10 The crux of pitch 1 can be avoided by traversing 3m left and ascending the chimney to a grassy ledge (in common with 'Juniper Face'). Then traverse right for about 3m to a stance in a recess.

Start 5m left of HYDRA just before the head of the PHOENIX subkloof.

1. 20m 22 Climb the layback type crack, past a peg at 4m to a block (crux). Move slightly left and up onto easier rock ending just right of the large roof.

Note: This route was kindly prepared by S Kelsey. Perhaps "Steel" should read "Steal".

Start on the face just left of the large tree in the recess. Climb up to a ledge and then climb the crack and face above to the top

CLASSIC!! Up the middle of the big left facing orange wall, via a leftwards trending line of cracks and jugs. One of the best trad lines at 'The Restaurant'.

Composite route.

This route is on the small face in front of the second buttress to the right of King Cobra Prow.

Head up the face to an overlap. Pull right to layback and up to the narrow roof. Crank through using the finger crack and easily to the ledge. Walk off right.

Possibly the most sandbagged 22 you will ever ave the pleasure of dogging up!

To access this route, start the hike towards Belly Button sector. Continue around the rock face on a bushy "path" and around some big boulders. Scramble up towards a small forest with bigger trees. This gem will be to the left of the small forest.

1. Stem your way up. Note on gear: small/micro nuts and small cams. Nuts are the best choice given the depth of the crack.

The climbing involves the obvious roof crack opposite GABOOM. Start 8m downstream of KLOOF DESCENT group of large boulders.

1. 30m 17 Climb up for a few metres, traverse right to break through a small overlap, traverse back left and climb up to the base of a short buttress. Climb this to a ledge, from which a traverse of 5m left is made to a ledge just below and to the right of the roof crack.

2. 10m 22 Move left and up to the roof, negotiate the crack, and climb the wall above to a ledge on the right.

Note: Which pitch is the catch?

The hardest thing around.

Start: approximately 4m right of the Wafer Flake standing upright on the ledge.

1. Climb the face to a long ledge, move left to the blocks on the corner.

2. Climb the murky recessed corner, past a loose block. Move right at the first rail, then traverse out left on some rails (below the Halfway Ledge), until it is possible to move onto it. Walk right to the Staletto recess which has an old peg.

3. From the block perched out over space, traverse left on some rails and into a peapod crack, which is climbed easily to the ledge.

4. A short recess on Postern Nose route is used to gain the next big ledge.

5. Slightly right is a jam crack through a roof. Climb the roof, "hanging like a bat". The move around the lip into the recess above is thin. After that, things get harder until the ledge.

A Classic

A variety pack on increasing difficulty from arête to crack to corner topped with an airy victory lap.

Start as for Maiden’s Prayer

1. 40m (13) Do the first few moves of Maiden’s Prayer and then traverse right, under the Iron Maiden arête to an orange wall. Go up the easy break on the left to the first wide break. Traverse right to an easy grey recess facing to the left. Climb up to the ledge and right to the base of the brown arête.

2. 30m (17) Follow the arête and then straight up to the ledge, and stance below the left side of the large roof above.

3. 20m (21) Start as for Maiden’s Prayer pitch 4, by climbing over blocks into the corner. At the left facing flare above, send your tentacles right along the rail and swing out to the right to gain the lovely vertical crack in the face above the roof. Follow this until it ends and then slightly right to the ledge. Walk right over some boulders to the base of the large, white open-book capped by a roof.

4. 20 m (22) Climb straight up the strenuous crack to the roof. Without inking yourself, traverse right under the roof to a fist crack. Step further right under a groove to a hand crack that leads to a neat, airy stance. Note: Danger Shrew pitch 4 (21) does the same first move but then traverses right along the base of the right wall into a crack system that passes the roof on the right.

5. 20 m (15) Make an airy traverse left to a saddle feature over the middle of the roof. Straight up to the top.

Starting 2-3m right of Cash's is a vague fault below the open book right of Cash's. A powerful start takes one to the open book & on to the top.

Takes a direct line up the centre of the wall right of the gully. Start between the large crack to the right and the layback crack to the left. Climb up to a bolt, and then straight up past several rails to a peg. Climb directly up and through the top bulge to exit. Fortunately a chain anchor has recently been placed at the top of this line so climbers no longer have the almost impossible, sloping and grass covered exit. However, one needs to rap down to get to the anchors to thread. Not as much of a mission as it sounds, and well worth it. Without a doubt one of the best routes in Kloof Gorge.

• retro-bolted Feb 2010 by Gerald Camp with permission of the FA preserving some “flavour”.

• The large crack to right has either not been climbed or is unrecorded… Not too sure of exactly where the “layback crack to the left” is?

Start location as for HALFMOON.

1. 40m 21 Climb up the steep red face immediately left of HALFMOON’s corner/crack, and move out right above the 2nd roof onto a ledge. Climb diagonally left to a stance (stance common with HALFMOON).

2. 40m 18 Climb up to the roof, then traverse left until able to climb straight up steep rock to a ledge on top of a pillar (stance common with HALFMOON).

3. 40m 14 Traverse 5m right then climb straight up to a large ledge. Belay in the cave 5m left of the corner.

4. 40m 19 Pull through on the left-hand side of the cave, and climb up to a ledge. Move left and climb the thin corner, moving out left under roofs to a good ledge.

5. 40m 20 Move up 3m to a rail and traverse left to move up to a small ledge at the left extremity of the roofs above. Move right on the lip for 2m and up a small corner to a large horizontal break. Traverse 20m left to a ledge with a block.

6. 50m 22 Up to a short corner, up this (5m) then traverse 5m left to a thin crack. Up the crack to a long rail. Move left 4m and up the face for 6m to a horizontal break. Up the steep face/crack system to a corner, up to the top of this, moving out right and up to a tree.

7. 45m 16 Past the tree following the obvious line to the top of the pillar.

8. 40m 14 Up the face on the right, then diagonally left to a chimney. Up the chimney to a ledge.

9. 60m Roped scrambling to the top.

1. [22] 20m Climb the arête / face to the right of the 'Muffin-Direct' first pitch. Abseil off tree or do second pitch of 'Muffin-Direct'.

Climbs the dihedral and crack system on the arete to the right of PHOENIX i.e. the route is situated between VALKYRIE and TYKES DELIGHT.

1. 25m 23 Pull up onto the base of the arete (as for TYKES DELIGHT). Climb leftwards to gain the dihedral system and follow this to the top.

Start five metres right of Whippersnapper. Pull into the square-cut recess and move left onto the face above. Move up to the highest point in the roof above and break through on the left past two pegs. Climb the face above and continue to the top keeping to the right of Microphobia.

Climb the face 2m right of THUNDERSTRUCK. (Permission has been given to retrobolt this route as long as long as the first ascent remains.)

Climb the black streak and grey overhanging wall above it, to the right of 'Human Highway'.

1. [22]

2. [18]

3. [22]

4. [19]

The start is 5m to the right of PERAMBULATING PUP beneath a bulging overhang. A thin crack starts in the bulge of the overhang and widens further up - to about 4 cm.

1. 20m 23 Start with a difficult move from the left to a good hand hold, and then move easily to the top.

The amazing yellowish arête to the right of 'Coming of Pride', with the big German-style (spaced!) ring bolts. You may need friends #.5, #2.5 at the bottom. Use some lower-offs on 'Little Bitch'.

Notes: Like When I'm 64, this route starts on the "D" traverse ledge, and as such there are several ways of approaching it, probably the most fitting would be veering right off the third pitch of Valkenism.

Start: From the left side of the "D" ledge, just before a bushy ramp.

1. Climb the thin groove in the smooth face.

2. Continue to the top of the buttress.

Like the wandering albatross, the route roams around. The pitch before the 90 ° change in course will have you puffin.

1. 20 m (17) Start as for Bat, but after a few moves, move right to a thin seam about 2m right of the corner. Continue straight up to the ledge

2. 20 m (23) Pull up to a rail and move a bit right until able to do a long move to the next rail. Move back left to above and a little left of the belayer. Continue up into a shallow left-facing corner, and pull up to a finger rail in the roof. Make the voyage left to an island foothold to resupply. Step back right and use wingspan to gain side pulls to establish on the face. Glide up to the wide rail below the roofs. #4 Camelot recommended for stance.

3. 25 m (15) 90 degree change in course: head right on good hand holds until about to mantle up to the higher level. Flap on past the Swan, across the wide ledge and stance at the far right end of the narrow ledge.

4. 30 m (21) The Atlantic crossing. Pull up to the finger rail, move right to pull through, then at the next rail traverse back left above belayer (as for pitch 2 of The Crow). Continue left past the vertical crack and go up the face to the height of the roof. Move left again and easily up featured rock. Walk left along a narrow ledge for ~5m, pull up 2m to the next level and another 5 m left to a stance on a cosy ledge. Above are a series of large left facing wing-like features.

5. 25 m (17) Fly straight up the outside (right) of the big wings to a bulge with a break through the middle. Straight up to the massive ledge. Walk ~10m left to start the next pitch.

6. 25 m (21) On the left side of the smooth wall there is diagonally sloping feature at the base, which rises up to the left, with a wide rail above it. From the left end of this feature follow a series of left-facing flakes and arches to a finger rail. Move 2m right and pull onto the face. Move diagonally left on edges to a horizontal break, trying to keep the flap to a minimum. Up to a vertical hand crack to a ledge. Take the recess above to the summit.

Instead of starting on No Charge start about 2m left on at the overlap with the undercling lip. Pull through this to a thin rail, then dead straight until you join BB at the small fin/open book. Don't wimp out and use the big holds on the left, they belong to Hang My Head: There is a whole sequence of beautiful subtle moves on that section! If you are cunning with small gear there is pro in the first 5m, however, it may be easier to just solo until the hard stuff is over. Route may be harder for the shorties, but probably better too.

Takes the arête right of “Little R”.  Follow the bolts, generally staying right of the arête.

• These bolts are probably suspect by now!

Scramble halfway up the "steep gully blocked by a prominent triangular overhang at the top of the crag", right of 'Golden Goose' . Stance at a ledge and small tree, level with 'Golden Goose' mega-rail.

1. 20m 23 Step left across the gully to gain the ledges at the base of a steep, obtuse-angled dihedral. Climb this to the top.

Climbs the steep wall to the left of the top pitch of CANDLEHORSE.

1. 25m 23 Climb past a few ledges to below a steep face split by a few cracks. Climb up the face and diagonally right to a ledge on the right arete of CANDLEHORSE. Move back left and jug haul to the top.

Start at the tree at the bottom of Virgin. Move out left to a block on the nose. Traverse back right to the centre of the wall. Climb up between rails and exit just right of the bush.

Located about 40m downstream from the top of the upper area on the true left. The route starts just left of massive overhangs (piton can be seen in small rail just below the overhangs)

1. 23m 21 Start on a jammed block in the river, gain access to a big jug just to the left of a crack with a layback/dyno move, once you gain the crack, climb it to the overhangs above and move left out to recess with two cracks, climb the left crack to a ledge with a tree on it.

2. 15m 15 Climb the finger crack on the right hand side of the ledge, follow the crack to an awkward move involving a handjam, this takes you into a chimney with a big triangular block above it, climb out of this to a larger sloping ledge.

3. 40m 22 Above the triangular block is a jam crack that break through the slightly overhanging wall almost to the top, climb this until the crack disappears following as straight line to the top as possible. The protection is great all the way through this route, many nuts are very handy for the last pitch.

Start: Right of 'Cool Cat', below the Elevator Roof.

1. [22] 15m

   Move up to the rail under the big roof. Rail strenuously left to the narrow ledge at the point where 'Cool Cat' pulls through the roof.

2. [15] 20m

   Climb the wall to the cave at the start of the Staircase traverse.

3. [20] 20m

   Climb the Aretḗ above the right hand side of the cave, moving right and finally joining the original last pitch of 'Myrrh'.

4. [19] 30m

   From a few meters up the gully, traverse out left onto the steep wall. Climb the center of the wall to the top.

Old bolts!

Climb the crack and then past three bolts on a pockety face

Start:

The route is in The Dream sector on Fountain Ledge, Table Mountain. Space Race is very direct and goes through one of the biggest flat roofs on the mountain. The first pitch starts between Farewell to Arms and Last Tango.

1. [23 A3] 30m On The Dream Ledge between 'Farewell to Arms' and Last Tango is a steep white wall capped by a huge roof. Start up the wall left of centre, a few metres from the thin crack of Farewell to Arms. Head directly up to the huge rail then traverse right to get to the thin seam that intermittently heads out to the lip of the roof. Using tiny cams, RPs and knife blades climb the 10m roof and turn the lip. Freestyle a couple of metres to a good stance under overhangs. A nice free variation involves railing rightwards under the huge roof and then coming back left above the roof to the stance.

2. [22] 30m Head up on the left and turn the overhangs. Head straight up the centre of the clean white wall between Last Tango on the left and The Cruise which heads up the leaning break on the right. Arrive at a big ledge and do a tricky mantelshelf.

3. [21 R] 12m After a bit of easy ground, there is a blank slab above. A ripple runs up the slab leaning to the left. Climb this ripple without protection. At the rail, head left and up the overhanging pillar, the slab is quite a serious lead.

4. [21] 20m Above is a wide roof with one obvious break some metres to the left. Don’t go there. Go slightly right and in the roof find a small pocket that allows you to lean out to the lip. Crank up onto the face and go to the arête on the right. Head straight up.

This route is the right hand of three cracks on a buttress about 100m downstream of THE FINAL CUT but on the true right. The buttress is at the top of the kloof. The route takes an off-width-looking crack and is discernable from the river. Approach from the top.

1. 15m 22 Easily up to the roof. Pull through and continue up the crack.

Starts in a right facing corner 50m left of the corridor gully. Climb the thin fingertips corner to a good stem rest at a cubby. Climb the corner above to the small roof, jug haul through the roof and all the way to the top! Extremely fun climbing and good protection all the way! Cleaned and ready for action!

This sustained route features a wild, pumpy traverse in an airy position.

Pitch 1. 15 m (16) About 10m right of Grappler, climb a recess with a chimney and layback crack to the huge ledge.\

Pitch 2. 15 m (22) Start from a large block 5m left of Grappler P2. A tricky start up a short recess leads to a wide rail. Move 2m left to where you can pull through on laybacks. Follow a steep corner to the roof. Traverse left to a cramped stance shared with Grappler.

Pitch 3. 15 m (21) Head up ~2m to the first rail (below Grappler's rail). Traverse right around the protruding corner and then keep going until just past the first flake in the roof. Make a hanging stance where a #3 Camalot fits the rail. Gear: Big cams of the Camelot #2 - #4 range are required. Doubles are useful although not absolutely essential.

Pitch 4. 8 m (23) Rail ~4m right and pull through the roof on a dubious flake just before the rail pinches out. Pull onto the face above and up ~2m to a semi-hanging stance at a narrow ledge. This could be combined with the previous pitch but would add a couple of grades.

Pitch 5. 30 m (20) Climb straight up toward a roof ~10m up. Pull through on the large layback on the left and continue to a large ledge, and then a few meters up to a smaller ledge.

Pitch 6. 20 m (20) Head up an orange wall on small flakes and edges to an obvious arch/bridge in the grey rock. Pull through the roof and straight up on the featured rock to a wide ledge.

Pitch 7. 25 m (21) Start up a short crack, followed by a rising traverse through a series of inverted steps and underlings to a shelf. Step left and straight up, aiming for a right tending crack through a slight bulge. Tend left to the large ledge.

Pitch 8. 12 m (17) Walk 10m left to a corner crack. Climb the corner crack into a smooth right-facing corner. After ~5m, step left onto the arete and up to the top.

Start just right of C’est La Bon and climb diagonally right to a peg above the roof. Continue right to the peg on Dynamatic and finish up the wall above.

Has the same start as 'Golden Goose'.

1. 25m 23 Climb the crack as for the second pitch of 'Golden Goose' and continue up to the rail. Move out and left and then up to the top.

A direct start to P1 (using the roof crack) brings the grade up to 25 (FA: C. Martinengo, 2007)

Takes the huge off-width roof crack from the rest ledge of 20TH CENTURY.

1. 15m 23 Climb the roof using the crack in the most imaginative way possible.

Climbs the same wall as Slut. Start at the bolt and pull straight through. Continue up the face, avoiding the arete and openbook.

1. 35m 23 Starts directly below DEXTER and DEXTROSE. Pull through bulge at bottom (strenuous and devious) and up onto slab above. Up slab and move slightly left and up steep bulging rock/corner past peg to rejoin DEXTROSE at 20m. Follow corner to tree.

Old bolts!

Climb the crack and then the scoop to chains.

Start: The prominent feature of the Cobblestones Gendarme is the huge overhang and chamber beneath it. The left end of the huge overhang drops a plumbline to Fountain Ledge where La Vida (and Sweet Dreams) starts up the clean arete.

1. [19] 12m Use small vertical cracks slightly left of the arete to get established, then move onto the arete and head straight up to a ledge. Cobblestone Chamber is up on the right

2. [21] 17m Climb the short face above to a ledge and continue up the arete-which is under-protected - to a recess. (A grey Alien or equivalent Metolius master cam is critical placed in a slot on the right). The arete start can be avoided by walking left 3m and climbing the under-clings up and right to reach the recess. Continue up to the jumbo ledge above at the base of "The Dream" and "Last Tango". Walk left 7m.

3. [21] 10m Start as for Last Tango and do the crux. Continue up the easier ground diagonally left heading for the right-facing corner. Traverse right at the base of the corner to do a layback move into the deep recess at the end of "The Dream" first pitch. Move right by railing on the outside or dassie crawl to the stance at the start of the second pitch of "The Dream".

4. [22] 30m Climb the second pitch of "The Dream".

5. [14] 20m or [22X] Move Left 3m and climb the easy arete (or climb directly up the unprotected face for 5m) to scrambling ground and stance on a ledge system that takes you to the abseil chains or to the top out pitch.

6. [18] 20m Move 15m left on the ledge system under the overhang to an obvious break in the roof. Climb this starting with a strenuous cranking to easier ground and continue to the top, or traverse 60m left to the Magnetic Wall abseil station.

Follow the discontinued crack, takes good gear.

P1. 25m 23?

Varied climbing with a committing crux pitch. Runs right and parallel to 'The Jedi Fish'. The crux pitch can be replaced with the first half of pitch 2 of 'The Jedi Fish', to give a safer route at grade 21.

1. 15 m (13) Climb the face just left of 'Tafelberg Frontal'. Stance below a small roof.

2. 20 m (21) Pull over some bulges to a little ledge below some roofs. Pull strenuously into a left-facing V slot. Establish over this and pull through two more roofs onto a face. Straight up to a small ledge.

3. 15 m (18) Climb the series of right-facing layback cracks, through an overlap and past a huge rectangular block to a ledge.

4. 15 m (23) Start below a large flat hold at about eye level. Head up a few meters (Camalot #1 and #2). Traverse left for 3m on good foot edges. Pull up at a flake (micro nuts or tiny cam). Move up and right to the large undercling feature. Hard moves out left then straight up to the enormous ledge. This pitch wanders a bit, and the gear is a bit tricky.

5. 20 m (20) Start at the hairline crank that rises slightly left. Follow this to a rail. Move right and up to a narrow roof. Pull through to a left-facing layback. Balance up, and continue another few meters to a hanging stance at a handrail with a good foot ledge.

6. 30 m (18) Step right and follow a series of huge flakes. Continue tending right until able to pull up into another set of flakes just below the summit.

Features a rising traverse of large undercling features. Start between After the Goldrush and Imposter.

1. 15 (25m) Climb the easiest break through the bulge to the left of the Imposterchimney. Step left and follow your nose straight up to the ledge.

2. 17 (45m) Follow the fist crack just left of Imposter pitch 2 to a feature that looks like the head of an axe. Pass this on the left to a roof. Pull through (some loose sections) and up to the ledge. Walk right and scramble up to stance on a ledge (left of a tree below the left edge of the enormous roof).

3. 22 (35m) Follow a wide crack to a ledge below the series of roofs/flakes heading diagonally up and right. Pull up under the first roof and make a tricky move right to a layback. Continue up and right past another roof and then under a wide flare. Step right and then straight up the steep face and use a layback crack to gain a small ledge.

4. 13 (10m) Continue straight up the juggy face above.

Start on the ledge at the base of Remedial Interruption.  Climb straight up the face and up the thin seam past a peg.  Avoid moving left onto Terminal Frost.

Between HALFMOON and HEY JUDE, there is a 50m long roof at 70m height. In the middle of the roof are two large flake lines. Below the right-hand one, on a ledge about 10m off the normal ground level, is a pillar with a chimney-sized gap behind it. Start at the base of the right hand side of the pillar.

1. 45m 20. Climb right hand side of pillar. Continue up flake line until first roof is reached. Move left to a break, and continue up to narrow ledge, directly above pillar, and about 8m below main roof.

2. 30m A2. Great Roof Pitch. Thrash through hanging gardens up and left from stance (the swath of clear-cut from FA is likely to have re-grown). Move left at roof, then out along flake. At piton, move left for two moves onto drilled bat hook hole Move up through overlap to reach rail, then right onto ledge with poor peg belay.

3. 40m 16. Move right into corner, then up and left to a grassy ledge, belaying off a tree. Awesome bivy to right of tree on cleared ledge below some low roofs (blackened corner). Next pitch starts from left end of these roofs, as for PROJECT THREE. The Grassy Ledge can be reached by walking right.

4. 30m 20. (As for PROJECT THREE) Pull through initial overhang at chest height, move right, then follow corner to next roof. Move left, then up to stance on small ledge 10m left of peg on HEY JUDE.

5. 35m 20 (As for PROJECT THREE) Clamber up blocks forming right hand side of stance. Follow intermittent crack above, stepping left when holds run out, then right again 2m higher. Continue up to stance on right end of Jungle Ledge.

6. 50m 22A2+. Move up and right from stance, with very technical climbing leading to left-facing corner 15m right of HALFMOON’s chimney. When free climbing becomes untenable, start aiding. Beyond the roof, technically easy but exciting aid leads up and left of overhang, then up again on slabs until a stance can be made just below the right-leaning cracks.

7. 40m 22 (19A1) Step left from the stance to gain the long right-leaning crack. Follow this until the crack splits. The right-hand line becomes a frightening offwidth through a huge roof. Follow the left-hand line around the roof with two points of aid, then right into a gully (as for SCATTERLINGS).

8. 15m 15. Continue up through trees until the Disco Ledge Bivi is reached (a flattopped pillar about the area of a small car, with a small cave/fissure behind).

9. 5m 15. Leave the Disco Ledge via the crack that the gully has narrowed to.

10. 100m. Contribute to deforestation on your way to the top.

Notes:

1. Special equipment. Two hooks suitable for small edges, two standard hooks, one hook for 5mm wide, 8mm deep holes. Aiders (etriers) are useful. A handbolting kit is recommended to beef-up the second stance with two bolts. A double or triple rack of small wires is useful for pitch 6.

2. Free notes. Pitch 2 can probably be mostly freed at grades that someone you know can climb. Pitch 6 would be bold, but most moves should be doable free.

3. Pitch 7 sounds suspiciously like the crux of SCATTERLINGS (22)?