Vías en North Carolina

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

Good beginner granite crack. Don't take it for granted, requires solid jamming skills to tame the grade down to 5.7 and has some thin feet. If you know what your doing though this is an excellent warmup with a nice chimney as second pitch option which is only done by every second party or so. Chimney protects with midrange cams in a series of horizontal cracks to emerge onto a short face climb to reach the anchors. The crack pitch is ice but this gets stars only if you also do the Chimney pitch.

Well-protected mixed route with fun exposure and a great lunch ledge.

1. 70ft (5.4) Wander up the slab face that slants leftwards away from the shallow cave. Belay at double bolts.

2. 80ft (5.5) Diagonal left up and around the corner. Follow the short ramp past bolts. As the ramp gets less steep, gear helps. Aim for the trees.

3. 70ft (5.5) Walk up the path through the trees until you come to the cliff. Move left 20ft. Climb the bolted face up to the roof. Up and over to the bolted belay on lightning ledge.

It is possible to walk off from Lightning Ledge by following the track left. There are bolts up the exposed part of the scramble. It is a safe exit.

1. (90', 5.7) Climb easy ground, allowing yourself to be funneled to the crux. As the crack reaches vertical you will definitely begin to realize where the difficulty is. Immediately after the crux, belay on the ledge. Gear anchor. It looks like there were bolts there at one time.

2. (180', 5.7) Continue up the easing crack to a belay in some vegetation.

Location: This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rats Ass).

Protection: Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded.

An easy start up a flake, easy slab traversing left under the roof. Use some runners and get ready for it - fire up the long, left arching hand crack. Layback or Jam - its up to you, either way its great!. A 4 inch piece is handy at the top.

Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.

Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.

1. (80', 5.5) Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.

2. (100', 5.8) At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.

3. (120', 5.7) If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.

4. (150', 5.6) Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.

Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.

Protection (stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."

The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.

I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).

An excellent climb!

1. Start in the gulley to the left of Jim Dandy, head up the slab, follow the natural line up the left where you can find pro, headed towards the gap between the two faces way way way up there. Easy climbing, but you will have sparse protection at about 15-20ft apart. This pitch ends with a length traverse to the right across to the 3 oldish bolts that make up the anchor. 170 ft (almost a full 60m rope).

2. Straight off the belay, lean across the void, clip a draw onto the bolt, then go for the peek-a-boo move!!!. I think the route then goes off to the right on a traverse, but I did it by going straight up following the roof system, probably bumps the grade up a bit, but great climbing either way.

3. There is a sea of slab in front of you that is very dirty and manky. Lunch ledge is a straight traverse to the right, or you can try find a clean path diagonally up and to the right to top out at Lightning Ledge. Or... you can rap from here and two 60's will bring you back to Jim Dandy first pitch, or "almost" all the way down to the ground, you will have to traverse a bit to get back into the original starting gully to come off rappel.

An incredibly aesthetic line as the finger crack cuts across the striped granite. But to get there... thin face climbing on the slab leads up to an undercling with good gear, however the fall would be a nasty ankle breaking ride down in front of the bottom flake. Best to be solid at 5.8 before jumping on this one.

A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

1. (120', 5.8) Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack.

2. (170', 5.5) Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors).

3. (60', 5.5) Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack.

Location:Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.

Protection: Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.

Start at the lunch ledge.

P1 follows bolts and obvious line in the lichen (alternatives exist, especially to the right of the bolt line but rope drag may become an issue). Look for a two bolt anchor.

P2 starts with a committing move left onto a slab, then follows to a ledge. There is a bolt after the move if you can find it. Belay from a ledge.

P3 follows bolts to a small roof. Continue to a two bolt anchor below a trail that takes you to the summit.

1. Climb the face past horizontals to a big ledge.

Location: Close to where the approach trail meets the right side of the South Face, beneath the middle of Stage Ledge.

To get down, either rappel off the dead, fallen tree on Stage Ledge or do the "North Carolina 3rd class" down-climb off the climber's right side of the ledge.

Protection: light rack, hands to fingers, no anchors

One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.

1. (100', 5.8) Climb crack up to a stance where you can set a natural gear belay.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb the steepening crack system and traverse right into some train track type cracks. Face climb up and into a slab. Bolted belay.

Location: Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.

Protection:Medium gear; cams, tricams and nuts.

Can you see yourself in the starting holds? Generations of muddy-booted toproping campers have polished the footholds beyond all hope of repair.

1. (50',5.7+ / 5.8) Look for a handcrack that doesn't quite reach the ground. Avoiding the snot-slick opening feet by smearing arbitrarily on the face, thug your way into the crack proper and jam up to Stage Ledge. If you are a guide, or a camp counselor, rue the chopping of the convenience bolts and tediously rig a belay in the corner. Toss your toprope off, and spend the day encouraging your young charges to trust their feet despite the clearly impossible nature of the exhortation.

2. Follow the corner off the left end of the ledge, escaping before it arches over. Belay in eyebrows when you feel like it.

3. (150', ?) Meander left to the Gemini raps.

Location: Bloody Crack is located near the right end of the South Face, below a large ledge with 4th-class access at the right end.

Protection: No fixed gear. Standard rack.

A great beginner climb that is well protected, vertical and is all on gear (no pesky bolts).

Start: Keep walking around the Eastern side of Tablerock, passing Jim Dandy, and The Cave Route. When you get around the back, follow the trail which is now burnt out and look for a path to the left leading up on top of a large boulder. It will be juggy vertical rock above you.

1. The best pitch of The North Ridge. Climb the juggy vertical rock, trending left around the overhung section, this turns into easy slab leading up to a nice belay ledge with 3 fixed pitons and a fixed 3 piece cordalette. Make sure to back this up with your own pro. This is a long pitch that takes lots of passive pro. (150ft, 5.5)

2. Climb up and trend right around the exposed arette. There is a direct finish straight up, or traverse right a little more and take the very easy, but vegetated and dirty finish. Pitch ends in shrubs with a gear belay. (70ft, 5.5)

3. An annoying pitch, a couple boulder moves at maybe 5.4 which generally means you should rope up, but then pretty much a walk off until you can find a spot to build another 3 piece anchor and belay. Some just solo this pitch. (50ft, 5.3).

Lie back the crack with feet on the face until the crack widens protect wide part with a #4 or 5 and then a green c3 in the seam between the roof and the crack. Find jug on top of the crack and step up over the roof to exit the crack. Follow the another 30ft of runout easy climbing. Protection is in a horizontal eyebrow probably with a tricam or a small cam.

Starts just left of an obvious chimney, aka Caterpillar 5.7, and is filled with great face climbing. Tricky mantle move off the start spices things up before the first clip. Nice powerful moves to solid holds and good foot work characterize this route well.

Left Up climbs a great finger and hand size crack just left of Stage Ledge. This climb serves as a great introduction to Looking Glass granite. Be careful the feet on the beginning of this climb are polished.

Location: Left up is located just left of Stage Ledge, Bloody Crack, etc. Look for the obvious finger/hand crack that climbs to a ledge

Protection: Standard NC rack (finger/hand sized), runners, single rope. Slings on the tree.

go right of main crack and lead to second set of ancors and clean down

Start with P1 of Sentinel Buttress. Then, step out left on the ledge, navigate the crack system and pull the imposing roof.

From the top, walk around to the Sentinel Buttress rappel anchors (2 raps with 60m). Alternatively, a hike off to climbers left from the top to a gully is available .

Thin moves down low lead past the crux and to a thin corner. Climb this corner aiming for the larger corner system. Follow up and to the right to the Gemini Rappel anchors. A double rope rappel puts you back on Sentry Box Ledge.

Location: First Return is the left most route of the three routes (Gemini Crack and Zodiac) located on Sentry Box Ledge.

Protection: Standard NC rack with some small gear (aliens, nuts), long runners, double ropes. Rap anchors at top.

Can be done in 2 pitches with a 70.

use less make it hard its a fun climb on a expoesed face

Absolutely stellar line of pure finger crack brilliance. Starts easy and the crack slowly becomes narrower and more... perfect... and hard... little fingers help, but the finish is easy. The climb is kind of hidden, look up, you need to boulder up to a ledge to begin. 20 yards left of Granola.

1. (75', 5.8) Climb eyebrows for about 75 feet to a nice ledge (you will be almost even with the Pitch 1 anchors on Sundial which will be to your right); gear anchor.

2. (crux) Climb past the rap bolts (out right) and up over the dike. You will want to search for another gear belay once you are up and right of the anchors on the start of pitch 3 of The Nose.

3. Climb up to the right edge of the parking lot and either use the rap anchors or build a belay out right.

4. Work your way up and slightly left to the anchors at the top of The Nose. Three double rope rappels get you to the ground.

Location

Peregrine is a slightly harder direct line in between The Nose and Sundial Crack. The route starts about 50ish feet right of The Nose. Look for the worn patches of granite that will indicate the start.

Protection Standard NC rack with plenty of small stuff. Aliens work great, tri-cams are good. Long runners, two ropes.

To the left of Mild Mannered Secretary (when facing wall). 3 RB to DRB anchor. Run out.

1. This is a great 5.9 warmup or option for gumbier climbers that you drag over to the North Face. It features a nice tips splitter on a slab. Many folks climb only the first pitch and belay off 2 fixed hexes in the crack above the dying tree.

2. (5.11b/c, ) It looks fantastic from the ground, and is one of the few true splitters at the Glass...at least that's how it looks. Closer inspection reveals a constricting crack with a lip on it that is awkward and painful to jam with moss and mud in the back of it. Yeehaw! If doing the 2nd pitch, traverse right after the tree (a little spicey) then up the first bulge to belay at a sloping stance with good gear. The crux is liebacking or jamming over a bulge about 20' above the belay. Continue to rap from two bolts about 70' above the belay. The entire route is very well protected. Take two ropes to rap.

Location: On the North Face of Looking Glass. This is located on the face of the pillar between Cornflake Crack and the Womb. Start about 10 feet left of a large tree that has grown into the wall.

Protection

P1: Small nuts or TCU's, then standard rack P2: Extra .5 and .75 camalots, hand sized pieces for the belay

A slightly harder version of Left Up. Can be a quick fun route if things are busy at the South Face area.

Location: Located just to the right of Left Up and just left of Stage Ledge, etc.

Protection: Standard NC rack, runners, 1 rope. Slings on tree for rappel.

1. (5.5/5.6) Easy climbing to get up to the double bolt anchor from the ledge.

2. Aim for the crack, cams can go into some shallow placements. Fire through the early moves and don't get too pumped - - this is probably the crux of the climb and I'd say it does feel 5.10a - - the crack is super fun and backs off in hardness as you go up - about 50' up trend left onto the face and then up another 40' or so of easier slabby face climbing to get to the belay spot - save some medium wired stoppers and a couple of cams for the gear belay.

3. You can go right or left but most go (climber's) left. You can protect right below "the move" - this move probably is 5.9 but it does feel hard. Be sure to protect your second so if they fall they don't cheese grater the rope across the rock - this is important. Trend up and right to a great belay spot.

4. Keep going out to your right to gain the obvious water groove about 40' right of the belay - it's a one step move into the groove (5.7?) and then things get easy. Go up the groove for about 40' and then go right to another good belay spot - - all the hard climbing is now over.

5. This isn't really a "pitch" but it avoids Southender Gully which is a PITA. - traverse right about a full rope length - don't go up too much - aim for what looks like a totally loose bolder sitting on a ledge (it might be - don't mess with it) go under it to a giant ledge and find two shiny stainless rap anchors (these are roughly on top of Irish Jig and Ruby Tuesday) - - one rappel (2 ropes) gets you on the ground with plenty to spare. If you can't find the aformentioned bolts you can go up and right and eventually hit trees - this is Southender Gully - - a bungle in the jungle for sure but you'll make it down.

This lesser climbed route at the South Face deserves mention, not only because the FA party included the late, great Doc Bayne, But it also packs quite a punch in the first 40 ft. or so with a long, scary runout on 5.8+.

Location: Climb up to Sentry Box Ledge, then start a few feet to the right of Gemini Crack on a fairly steep slab. Climb straight up the slab to a point where where you can finally get something in, then wander to the top on somewhat easier ground.

Protection: I gave this route an R because of the first 40ft., but the protection gets a little better after that first pro placement. Take some smaller stuff.

A nice warmup for the other great South Face climbs, but not a casual route for the grade. Put thoughts like "this doesn't feel like 5.6" out of your mind and enjoy the friction climbing.

1. Starting below right-slanting crack, follow it up and right; after the crack peters out, continue straight up on mainly friction moves to the tree ledge above. If you don't feel like rapping at this point, you can move to the left end of the ledge to the start of Afterbirth (which will take you to the Gemini rap station).

Location: Starts about 25' left of Left Up at an obvious slanting crack. Rap from rap rings at the ledge.

Protection: Small to medium gear; tricams are handy.

The old bolts aren't worth clipping.

A true standout for its grade. The fantastic holds and excellent protection on the steep face are rivaled only by the sense of exposure.

can also be top roped

Apparently not done that often anymore as it is grown over. 2024 update: cleaned recently.

Gear anchors, no bolts.

Start on Sentinel Chimney, then step out to finish on Air Show. Hike off is available, else rappel Sentinel Buttress (2 raps with 60m rope get you to the group).