Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.7 A0 | ★★★ Royal Arches Route
An exceptionally popular easy route up the central buttress between the two arch features. For such a popular route the climbing isn't actually that great, with lots of rambly 4th class pitches to start, an unavoidable aid move, and some mungy bits as well. The climb is also quite linear, especially up high, so passing slower parties or climbing parallel to them isn't particularly easy.
| 430m, 15 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Snake Dike
Bolts replaced in 1992. PAL: Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell & Chris Fredericks, 1965 | 550m, 8 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 PG13 | ★★★ Double Cross
Warning: The first 20 feet of this climb offers tricky protection and have sent many an unprepared climber to hospital. | 30m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Laurel
Well deservedly popular route. Crack starts as fingers, grows to fists by the end. Footholds at the bottom are very polished, and the opening moves bouldery. The gear placement is great, the moves are nice, it's easy enough for newbies to try and hard enough for experienced folk to enjoy. Short, but hits the sweet spot. Bolted anchors can be easily accessed via the dirty chimney. PA: Thornton Read, Norton Smithe & Lester Germer | 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ After Six
Walk off descent with short 3rd and 4th class exposure. Retreat earlier by rappelling with 2 ropes or escaping left atop pitch 4. Pro to 2". PAL: Yvon Chouinard & Ruth Schneider, 1965 | 180m, 6 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ The Bastille Crack
1
5.7
2
5.6
3
5.7
4
5.6
5
5.5
One of the most climbed routes in North America: Almost no approach, 350 feet of moderate crack climbing and all day shade. PA: US Army climbers, 1954 PAL: Stan Shepard & Allen Bergen, 1957 | 110m, 5 | Boulder | ||
5.7 | ★ Glory Jean's
Up, step over the gap, up trending right, then traverse left along the edge, up left of the anchors, then reach right to clip the anchors. PA: Mark Sprague, 1996 | 24m, 8 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Jam
| 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Boxer Rebellion
Starts where the ledge turns into a ramp up to the right. PA: Albert Newman & Leo Henson | 15m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ Rise And Shine
Start just left of the big boulder. Up the face to the corner system, pass it mostly on the left, then go right again to the anchors. PA: Ward Smith, 1996 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Corrugation Corner
1
5.6
140ft
2
5.7
130ft
3
5.7
190ft
PA: Kurt Edsburg & et al, 1960 | 140m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★★ Ken's Crack
PA: Ken Prestrud & Lucien Warner | 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 R | ★★★ Bear's Reach
1
5.7 R
120 ft
2
5.7
120 ft
3
5.7
120 ft
PAL: Phil Berry & Robin Linnett, 1956 | 110m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★★ Hippie Dreams
| 23m, 7 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.7 G | ★★★ Something Interesting
| Shawangunks | |||
5.7 | ★ Silk Panties
The right-most bolted route, about half-way up the ramp. PA: Donette Swain & Todd Swain | 12m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ Asbury Park
Climb the blunt corner below the railway ties, easier if you go around the corner to the left at times, more difficult (maybe 5.8) straight up the bolts. PA: Jim Shimberg, 1990 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★ C Sharp or B Flat
PA: Tina Bronaugh & Jennifer Rannells, 1993 | 20m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ Strictly From Nowhere
1
5.7
2
5.5
| 68m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 PG | ★★ Classic
1
5.7 PG
2
5.4 PG
PA: Mike Borghoff & Brownell Bergen | 49m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Pine Line
Pro to 2". PAL: Jeff Schaffer & Greg Schaffer, 1966 | 21m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Durrance
The easiest route up Devils Tower and likely the most climbed route up the tower. Newer crack climbers often struggle, frequently insisting it's severely sandbagged. This climb is best recognized by the right-leaning pillar on the left flank of the south face. Approach: from the parking lot, go up the paved trail and take the branch that goes counter-clockwise around the tower. Walk along the path until you encounter a pair of metal viewing tubes. Follow the obvious climbers trail until it reaches the cliff, at the base of the "bowling alley". There are a number of variations to exactly where the climb starts, and how the pitches are counted. The following seems to be a common choice:
PA: Jack Durrance & Harrison Butterworth, 1938 | 150m | Devils Tower National Monument | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Roadside Attraction
Bolted Anchors. 70 m rope to rap down. PA: Greg Smith & Ron Snider, 1984 | 43m, 2 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ Stichter Quits
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Fruit Loops
Good beginner granite crack. Don't take it for granted, requires solid jamming skills to tame the grade down to 5.7 and has some thin feet. If you know what your doing though this is an excellent warmup with a nice chimney as second pitch option which is only done by every second party or so. Chimney protects with midrange cams in a series of horizontal cracks to emerge onto a short face climb to reach the anchors. The crack pitch is ice but this gets stars only if you also do the Chimney pitch. | 43m, 2 | Rumbling Bald | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Birdland
A superb sustained route at the grade (5.7+). Very popular, due to bolted anchors, ability to be rappelled on single 70m rope, and very good climbing with generally solid protection. Start below the left-most of 2 obvious long cracks the split the lower part of the varnished buttress left of the corner that Spectrum climbs to the roof 60ft up. This is a few yards above a huge boulder that leans against the cliff creating a tunnel.
PA: Mark Limage & Chris Burton | 150m, 5 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ Overhang Bypass
| 35m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ False Modesty
PA: Jim Shimberg, 1989 | 14m, 4 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★ Truth In Advertising
PA: Jim Shimberg, 1988 | 15m, 5 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | CH4
PA: J.J., 2004 | 9m, 3 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ Johnny Vegas
1
5.7
2
5.7
3
5.6
4
5.4
Starts behind pillar that looks like it has a boulder perched on it, left of the Solar Slab Gully.
| 120m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ Wheat Thin
The climbing starts on easy slab until you reach the flake & then things get vertical. There is no protection before you reach the flake but none is needed. Climb the flake using slab and other features for feet. All protection is in the flake and in the crack behind the flake once it widens. Climbing is more difficult after the flake widens and gets even more vertical. Bring doubles in mid ranges from .75 through 1, triples in #2 & 3 saving One of each for the anchor. This climb is a fabulous lead. | 45m | City of Rocks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Easily Flakey | 85m | New River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★★ White Lightning
Climb the obvious jagged crack that starts in a rectangular groove with leaning rectangular blocks at the base. | 34m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 PG | ★★★ Olive Oil
A Red Rocks Classic! Approach: from Pine Creek parking lot, follow the main trail just past an old home foundation. Take a left here on the Oak Creek trail. This trail eventually forks right after about 15 minutes. Take a right on a faint trail heading to Juniper Canyon. Head for the Rose Tower, a rounded top pink formation by going into the second of two gullies. The first gully is the descent. The climb starts bout 250 yards up this gully after going over some boulders and a small creek, at a small clear beneath a left-facing, left-leaning chimney in a corner.
Descent: Head north off the Rose Tower (the other side of where you came from) with 1 short exposed down-climb, then hike south down the gully (gully east of Rose Tower). PA: George Urioste, Joanne Urioste & John Williamson, 1978 | 300m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Ecstasy
| 69m | Seneca | ||
5.7 R | ★★ Surrealistic Pillar
1
5.7
100ft
2
5.7
150ft
3
5.5 R
50ft
PA: Ken Edsburg, Mike Edsburg & Jerry Sublette, 1963 | 91m | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 PG | ★ Herdie Gerdie
PA: Dick Williams & Dick DuMais | 15m | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★ Gravity Boots
Climb the slab on the right. Climb the right side of the slab PA: P. Sloan & E. Whittemore | 12m, 4 | Foster Falls | ||
5.7 II | ★★★ Whitney-Gilman Ridge
PA: Hassler Whitney & Bradley Gilman, 1929 | 180m, 6 | Cannon Cliff | ||
5.7 | ★ Lichen It | Smith Rock State Park | |||
5.7 G | ★★★ Limelight
PA: Dick Williams & Art Gran | 52m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Fun House | 2 | Cathedral Ledge | ||
5.7 III | ★★★ Tunnel Vision | 230m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
5.7 | ★ Tiptoe
| 3 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Pop Bottle
A great first pitch, and easier, but still very pleasant pitches above.
| 130m, 3, 1 | Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||
5.7 | ★★ New River Gunks | 20m | New River Gorge | ||
5.7 | Roo Dog
PAL: Tom Suhler & Bruce Becker | 14m, 3 | Austin | ||
5.7 | ★ That Eight
| 21m, 5 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.7 | ★ Rose Garden
This line goes up and rightwards up a less than vertical face parallelling the edge of the wall as it drops off into a bit of a gully. Be careful top-roping this route -- a fall can easily swing off the route into the gully, and even following has some risk. PA: Jim Shimberg, 2001 | 18m, 6 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★ Ledger Line
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★ Rolly Polly Coco Kitty
| 8m | Austin | ||
5.7 | ★ Penelope's Problem
| 18m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Bunny Face
Knobby route, really nice warm up and pretty route | 2 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Frosted Flakes
PA: Paula King, 1995 | 4 | Rumney | ||
5.7 | ★★ Great Northern Slab | 41m | Index Town Walls | ||
5.7 PG | ★★ Yellow Ridge
1
5.7
2
5.5
3
5.7 PG
PA: Fritz Wiessner, Fritz Wiessner †, Ed Gross & Ann Gross, 1944 | 61m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★★ Green Wall
| 69m | Seneca | ||
5.7 | ★★ City Lights
1
5.7
2
5.4
| 52m, 2 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★ First Aid
4 bolts, plus ring anchors (recently added). PA: Michael Fisher | 10m, 4 | Franklin Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★ Clawing Zoe
| 10m | Austin | ||
5.7 | ★★ Second Coming
Location: This is one of two obvious right-arching dihedrals well to the left of Gemini Crack (the other is Rats Ass). Protection: Standard rack. Rappel from either of two new sets of ring anchors (near the old rap tree) above Gemini Crack. Gemini can be crowded. PA: Stan Wallace, Ron Cousins, Art Williams & Jim McEver, 1972 | 85m | Looking Glass | ||
5.7 | ★ Uncle Fanny
Pro to 3". Descend with 80' rappel. PA: Bruce Price & Michael McLean, 1970 | 37m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ The 5.8 Crack By The Road
Despite the name, only 5.7. Climb the obvious crack with ledges up to lower-offs. Very good protection with generally good stances to place it from. | Rumney | |||
5.7 | ★★ Sweat
PA: Stuart Chamblin | 18m | Enchanted Rock | ||
5.7 | ★★ Old Town
2 bolt anchor with rap rings. | Acadia National Park | |||
5.7 | ★★ Middle Earth
PA: Joe Kelsey & Roman Laba | 79m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Drunkard's Delight
| Shawangunks | |||
5.7 | ★ Buissonier
PA: Royal Robbins, 1965 | 20m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 PG | ★★★ Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope
1
5.5
120'
2
5.7 PG
60'
3
5.7
60'
PA: Dick Williams & Dick DuMais, 1968 | 73m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
5.7 | ★ Shealyn's Way
Climb the obvious chimney then head left and up to the anchors. One of the longer routes at the parking lot wall, fun if the start isn't wet. | 33m, 11 | Rumney | ||
{AU} YDS:5.7 AID:A3 COM:V | ★★★ West Face
PA: Warren Harding, Al MacDonald, Glen Denny (with help from Les Wilson, Chris Westphal & George Whitmore), 1961 | 300m, 11 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★★ Toe Crack | 2 | Cathedral Ledge | ||
5.7 | ★ Kiddy Crack | 60m | Cathedral Ledge | ||
5.7 | ★ Got a Dollar?
| 11m | Austin | ||
5.7 | ★★ Spiderman | 21m, 2 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.7 | ★★★ North Ridge
Sometimes described as being one of the best routes at it's grade in Colorado (despite feeling more like a 5.6), the classic North Ridge is a worthy objective for the phenomenal exposure and position it offers. PAL: Harvey Carter, 1950 | 43m, 2, 4 | Colorado Springs | ||
5.7 | ★★ Potholes | 18m, 5 | Colorado Springs | ||
5.7 | ★★★ West Pole
| 41m | Seneca | ||
5.7 | ★ Rockapella | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.7 | ★ Sunburst | Red Wing | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Soler
| 84m | Seneca | ||
5.7 | ★★ The Swift
| 120m, 3 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Dancer | Smith Rock State Park | |||
5.7 | ★★ Daisy Cutter
PA: Eric McCallister & Eric Hörst, 2001 | 18m, 5 | New River Gorge | ||
5.7 II | ★★ Sliding Board | 320m | Whitehorse Ledge | ||
5.7 | ★ Mr. Cornflakes | Rock Creek Canyon | |||
5.7 | ★★ High Anxiety | 25m | Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge | ||
5.7 | ★ stonecold moderate | Denver | |||
5.7 | ★ Butterfly Flake
High first bolt. Climb to the flake and stay on it until reaching anchors. | 12m, 3 | New River Gorge | ||
5.7 A2 VI | ★★★ Zodiac
PA: Charlie Porter | 550m, 16 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ Cinq Jour D'Affille | Red Wing | |||
5.7 | ★★ Funhouse To Pooh | Cathedral Ledge | |||
5.7 | ★★★ Mental Physics
Bolted anchors. There is a second pitch but few do it. Second pitch has a single bolt at about 30 ft past p1 anchor. | 55m, 2, 1 | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
V0 | ★ Beginner's Crack
Tricky start, then easy. | 8m | Indian & Mortar Rocks | ||
5.7 | ★★ Intruding Dike
Mostly a finger crack with lots of surface rugiosity to help you out. The route eats Small to midsize gear up to about A #1. Nice fist crack at the top which can take larger pieces. Gear anchor. Walk off a 5.5 ramp to the right as you face the crack. | 25m | City of Rocks | ||
5.7 | ★ Almost Vertical
Start of the wider crack on the right side of the wall. Follow this crack to the top. | 17m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.7 | ★ The Offering
PA: Dennis Rice, Mike Susko & Tim Powers | 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.7 | ★ Lazy Day
| Joshua Tree National Park | |||
5.7 | ★★ Frosty Cone
| 24m | Joshua Tree National Park |