Ascensiones en World por Darren Melnychuk teniendo trad-cpr o ascent-date

One of the most amazing days I’ve had on the Chief despite taking possibly one of the most epic ass-kickings ever seen on that wall. Hopefully get back to finish as it’s in the top ten category on my lifetime bucket list. I don’t think climbing gets better than this route.

Endless gratitude to have been able to spend the day on this route in the context of mentorship with the late Jim Haberl and Danny Canton as a young “at risk youth” from Surrey so many yrs ago. One of the days I’ll never forget.

This attempt to dial the link up of the 1st and 2nd pitch via ropesolo is up here for clarification of a good old fashioned witch 🧙‍♀️ hunt. Contrary to the bullshit that was said I was not the person… nor did I wish to have bolts added to the upper pitch. And after the weird vibe I was given about these “mysterious” bolts appearing, I not only removed them but also retro’d and installed a new station. New bolts have dust, markings and tell tale signs for quite a while (the hangers were far from new) after they’re installed on an overhanging wall that doesn’t see rain. I do have photos of them before I removed, filled them in and camouflaged them. A big thank you (especially to the weenie who most likely installed them in the 1st place for belaying me to remove them) and for using me and my attempts to work the route as an opportunity to throw someone under the bus for his own mistakes. Also? Maybe check the timelines of how many clips were published in Derek Galloways guide before that accusation. Just an idea 💡