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Can be climbed in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. In that case minimize protection on the first pitch and extend as much as possible (sensible) to reduce rope drag.

1. Up corner then traverse left along ledge with committing move around arete up to belay. Gear belay.

2. Straight up off belay, trending vaguely right through juggy terrain. Up to DRB.

34m rap from double ring bolts above the climb - 70m rope or doubles required. Can be done in two raps using a 60 and the mid-station, or walk right and down the gully.

The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams.

The line of ringbolts at far right of wall. New anchor 2015.

The best easy sport route at the crag. All rings.

Very popular, mainly due to the fact that it stays in the shade all day! Classy but technical climbing ascends the very obvious corner R of SOH. Excellent gear (if you have a number of fist-sized cams) with a slightly awkward and overhung crux. Up easily to DBB as you top out of the corner.

Up the easy corner with good gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

As for 'Tantalus' for 4m, then move L and go straight up, ending in shallow groove.

Start: Start 10m R of T.

Start at the same U-bolt as for Snake Charmer but veer right Keeping right of black strip. 7 U-bolts to Double U-bolt belay.

Start in the bottom of the little flared crack and go up diagonally left under tree branch.

Start directly opposite the L (western) side of Minstrel Pinnacle, on the main wall. The crack for 7m to tricky roof. Onwards to ledge then steep crack. Step R across a gap then more easily.

The R-curving crack just R of Abdul. Awkward - but you've got to get up to Blockbuster Ledge somehow and this is the best easy option. Requires a few techniques from your bag of tricks to succeed.

The original Queensland easy sport route! R of 'Charger'. Runout start to high RB then superb fishbowl jugs past a second RB to lower-off anchor on the right. When first bolted this was quite controversial (bolts on a 13!) but in the 21st century it's considered quite runout! Rebolted 2015.

Third line of bolts from the left. Rappel station at top.

The left hand side of the boulder as you face it with your back to the cliff has 3 bolted routes. Whippersnapper is the RH route. Hard start, then up juggy wall and left to righthand anchor (clip and go).

Start 2m left of Sincerity. The wide crack in the corner - take big cams. Double hangers with rings lower off at the top.

Start 10m right of Melville's Cave. Climb the rotten crack and go through the overhang at the top.

A very long, sustained, bridging classic that requires a three-dimensional approach. The polished corner facing north (morning shade). If you have only a 50m rope belay in the alcove 3m off the ground to make sure you don't run out of rope. There is a rap station on the L when you get to the ledge (50m). Be careful of the large loose block at the belay. It seems well keyed in but treat with caution. Use similar caution with a few other blocks envcountered during the pitch.

If you only have a single rope, you can do two abseils (2x30m) from the DRB to the left atop Antiques Roadshow. Please don't use the old exit left up the gully to Flinders Lane as it acts as a funnel for rocks onto the climbs below. Consider Kestrel Alternate Finish as an easy way to get to Flinders Lane.

Start behind jacaranda tree, 2m L of 'Play School'.

Great beginner lead. Up series of ledges past 4 RBs to DBB shared with 'Play School'.

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Be wary of filthy, loose exit.

Immediately left of the Coal Sack crack system. Follow ring bolts to the anchor.

Start 3m L of 'Event Horizon'. Marked "SD".

Follow 4 RBs straight up left of the large loose block, trending right above this, to finish at the DBB. Shared belay with EH. Rebolted 2014.

Start 2m L of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to DBB. Was known as "MB" before being bolted.

Start 2m left of Hope. Slab climbing up orange face between Hope and Charity. Step right and finish on Hope when it gets hard. Direct finish is much harder.

Another old classic. Bring 4-5 bolt plates for the beginning of climb. The rest is trad pro. Abseil access from top chains is approx 50m to ground. Tie a stopper knot.

Start: 8m right of BPC. Has an alternate direct start 8m right up corner past old bolt.

1. 10m Up grey wall to small corner, right onto slab, traverse right to tree. Most parties skip this belay and continue up p2 to cave belay.

2. 15m Cracks (big pro) to cave. DRBB.

3. 25m Through the cave and hole, or corner outside to the top. DBB.

Climb can be done in 2 pitches if you begin at direct start. (No traverse, just follow straight up the crack to cave).

Replaced bolts November 2015

Fantastic location at a moderate grade, apparently has a history of being used to serenade enthusiastic new lady climbers.

Start: Rap off left-side (facing in) of prow to DBB. A bit of trad gear can make the hanging belay stance a bit more comfortable.

Start just right of the cave, heading up until level with the top of it, then head diagonally up left until above the centre of the cave and continue straight up from there.

6m left of Whippersnapper

Climb diagonally right & up to the left hand lower-offs.

Stellar corner crack - one of the best easy cracks in the Mtns. Start under roof marked HD, up slab to bouldery move through roof (bolt) and then gear thereafter. Finish with airy traverse left and mantle up to ledge. There is double ringbolts above the route (awkward to belay from but fine for rap cleaning), or chain 5m to the left. Protected by #4 size cams and smaller - hexes also work fine.

Good beginner's climb. Down the path below GBTS then up to the right.

Up the chimney until it ends. Trend left slightly until the wall steepens and blanks out. Now mount the ledge on the right like a beached whale with as much dignity as you can muster.

Start: At the centre of the wall is a prominent chimney.

Right side of the arete.

A good'n.

Start: Start at the initialled R-facing corner down the left end of 'Back Wall'.

A light rack of cams (maybe BD 0.3 - 3) is more than enough to protect this. Most bolts are carrots

1. 18m (8) Up a few metres to bolt (used more to show direction than for protection). Up to vertical crack for pro and up bulbous wall (another bolt on right) to DBB at top of buttress. Walk up and right 8 metres to start of next pitch. DBB on wall. Many people don't find the start of this and have epics, walk 8m, find the DBB!

2. 40m (12) Left of belay grunt onto wall (crux). Natural pro in crack or horizontal breaks up higher. Clip bolt on left. Then move diagonally right to small friend (#0) in horizontal crack and further rightwards on easy stuff to bolt (clip with sling to reduce drag). Up left clipping two bolts, steep tricky move (easiest if you move left). Easy 10m ramble with two bolts to DBB. Best to give your second a tight rope when they start the pitch.

3. 16m (9) Bolt on right shows the way, then up crack on left to belay. (Bolt and #½ friend or purple camalot.)

4. 45m (8) From right of the belay move up a few metres, then traverse left past bolt runner to arête/ridge. Up ridge 30m past 4 bolts. Walk across rightwards to bolt on little buttress. Over this and walk 10m+ (no bolt protection) and scramble through small bushes up easy crack into cave to DBB (at your feet).

5. 21m (12) From belay start to the right. Up wall trending left past 4 bolts. Climb onto large blocks at top. They seem OK. And traverse right passing bolt that protects the second to DBB.

6. 26m (8) Clip bolt on right of belay. Stand on rock thing and up. Follow ridge with a few bolts to top. DBB.

It's possible to wander all over the wall with many variations. This captures the best easy climbing, the pitches are short so you can watch seconds. You can easily combine P1+2, and P4+5 if you use a few slings. All rings. Follow the rings. There is one ring to rule them all.

1. 10m Follow layback crack about 15m R of gripping Yarn to ledge.

2. 25m Walk left, crossing Gripping Yarn (you can step up and clip a fixed hanger here, use a sling to cut drag), and then up short wall and easy slab, move L to belay on block. (ignore the bolts with hangers going straight up the blank slab above, Nintendo 64)

3. 30m step left across corner then left 5m further and up slab and bulge, then leftwards to belay in hole.

4. 20m diagonally left to overlap. Left and up short corner and wall to belay.

5. 25m Up right to bolt and slab and crack as for Gripping Yarn.

Short pitches, but packs a lot of climbing in that space. Start below a ledge four metres left of Carezza - just right of a right-facing open corner in the alcove up and left from Aitchison's Needle.

1. 16m The first pitch involves some harder-than-13 moves to get off the deck, then fairly easily upwards and left until you get to a belay on top of the pillar below the traverse.

2. 22m The traverse pitch provides some classic moves and a bit of fun for the second - make sure you place your gear well for those following! Up easily for a few metres then head right to a big grassy ledge (take your pick for belay).

3. 12m Third pitch many take the alternate version (Carezzissima Finish) which goes more direct and at a harder grade. For the original, up the corner at the back of the ledge then a few harder-than-13 moves to get up and over a flake and then easily up and away to finish off.

Starts 1m left of Mars Apple.

Slightly tricky start then up blocky ledges and face. New bolts 2009. 2 carrots on top.

The second pitch is pretty stiff for the grade.

The Shepherd guide has the second pitch going right and up what is now Wee Skerrick though that's hard to reconcile with the, admittedly vague, text in the Lockwood guide.

Start at the easy-angled grrove about 20 metres left of Acapulco Gold.

1. 18m (7) Up the line with good protecetion and belay on obvious large diagonal ledge/ramp.

2. 12m (13) Steeply up wall to crack then hard moves lead to easier ground.

A rather rambling, but longer journey up and across the slabs left of 'Alpine'.

Start up 'Alpine' until you see the bolts to the left. Follow to double RB lower off.

Very last climb on the West Face (as you walk west along the access track ). Or very 1st if you start from the Nitro Wall access gully. Walk past the 'Volkswagon' small gully and turn right at the corner and head up the large open gully. 15m up, on your right - the climb with the small cut-out cave.

Start up the left side arete, all the way on jugs to the lower-offs at the top ledge.

Up the crack as for Crackle then veer R under the roof. Dangerously underprotected through the middle section. A #5 camalot helps up high.

Start 1m R from the 'Bufo Marinus' arete. Marked "BI".

Up to halfway ledge at base of slab. Up slab to layback crack, then up this, R around bulge and top out.

The wandering route up the ledges and cracks on the left end of the wall, that makes far more sense once you realise it was originally a trad route

A well protected, thoroughly enjoyable classic. Straight up the low angle corner.

There is a chain around a block at the top for abseiling (January 2021). Take care with 60 meter rope as the rap is more than 30 meters.

A good four pitches with the first, second and fourth having quite absorbing sections.

Start as for Dunes.

1. 30m (13) As for Dunes up the corner and slab but then skip the pitch 2 chimney over on the right by going straight up the slab, pulling L onto ledge then up the flake and wall staying R towards the arete (Sep 88, Kieran Loughran and Meg Sleeman).

2. 25m (11) Drift left up excellent steep clean exposed juggy climbing. Belay on spacious sloping ledge a bit before the Oasis.

3. 22m (10) Head up L to the L end of the Oasis ledge and surmount an undercut slot (not kid friendly! Maybe try further L with kids). Continue to an overhung but very juggy bulge, and belay 5m above this on a good ledge.

4. 23m (12) Ledge hop up to a very nice vertical juggy wall, then up a slippery polished corner crack (again, not kid friendly). At the top of the corner move about 5m R to find an easy way to do the last few moves to the top.

Now (spring 2017) cleaned & bolted as a sport route, with a label stone as "Too Many Puppies 5.8S" - was graded 5.4 in the 80s as a trad route.

Start 5m to the right of a small cairn (yeah, right, like it's still there) and at the base of a steep slab facing right, 75m past the start of "First Flight". A short face leads to the base of the slab. Follow the slab to the top, generally keeping to its left edge, bypassing a cedar. The crux move involves stepping left onto a bulge (6m above the base of the slab) while using a horizontal break for a hand jam.

Nice easy wall, start just right of crack (TPI).

Start 2m Right of 'It'.

The corner.

As the name implies be prepared for a battle in order to overcome this imposing line.

Start: Start as for 'Burnum Burnum' but move right and up after the 1st RB.

Not many routes this easy get you up a wall like this.

Start: Start below a L arching V-crack, 6m L of Birdman.

1. 15m (13) V crack then reachy step L to ledge. Belay on the L.

2. 22m (13) Up R to flake (hollow but avoidable), up L to ledge, R to balancey finish.

Start 3m R of 'Wounded Knee'. Faintly marked "N".

Up layback to ledge below overhang. Traverse R to avoid overhang, briefly joining 'Mank Mistress', before tending back L above overhang. Continue to top. Run out in parts.

Start under the roof on the left side of the crag. Traverse out the roof and once on the headwall follow the left line of bolts

Start below the only FH on this section of wall.

Optional stickclip of the FH, then up past 7 BRs, belay from ring #9 at top.

The best route on the buttress. Based on a prominent flake down low and a R facing flake/corner running the middle top third of the buttress with some slabs in between.

1. 48m Up and R to flake in the middle of the buttress. climb this and continue up slabs to the L end of a large ledge.

2. 41m (Crux) Diagonally L for about 6m then up to overlapping flake and a bolt. From the small stance continue up until a step R between prickle bushes gains a small stance.

3. 35m Up and L a bit to a good crack, then flake/corner to ledge on the L (Piton belay)

4. 25m Clean corner and crack to the top.

This classic route is short but sweet. It offers great hand crack action while still having plenty of face holds for the non-crack-initiated (great learning spot!). Bolted anchors easily accessed via the Dirty Chimney.

The first route up 'Castle Crag' looks like a doodle, but is not quite that simple.

Classic Jamming moves through an awkward bulge.

Start at on large holds just L of overhang and straight up to mantle.

Well-protected technical climbing low-down leads to a runout finish. Crucial protection in the top half of the climb is provided by an insecure sling; double ropes help.

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

Well worth the trip. Start at the obvious cracked buttress that forks at about 6m. This classic jug and jam fest can go either way from there, the R variant probably slightly more popular. Both lines are equally challenging.

Double ring top rope anchors installed. Access cautiously from top. Tim Booth An old crack climb. Natural protection. Up the cracks past the old bolt marks.

The obvious twisting off-width crack to the right of the cave. Anchors.

The grade has inspired much debate.

As for J.

Step onto wall and follow crack (micro cams) until it finishes. Up wall past BR to belay as for J

Start up the R arête on large holds

About 20m past Shanti, glue-in bolts up a slab with a small tree at the base.

Plaque labelling it as "Aint No Wifey 5.8 S", but grade is no harder than 5.6.

Some think that the excellent climbing on the upper pitches makes up for the atrocious start; others strongly disagree.

Start between Dreadnought Buttress and Dunes Buttress at a shrubby rib.

1. 35m (9) Up the rib with vegetation issues (persevere: the climb gets better). Traverse right and belay near the beautiful ferns at DBB

2. 35m (13) Bridge steeply up the chimney.

3. 30m (13) More excellent chimneying on great rock.

Start under the main section of overhangs, and wander up the slab to a big 'T' marker in a cosy groove. A stunning old time classic through some very imposing country. Most people look at the route and think 'How can this be a 13?'. Keep in mind that the first ascentionists climbed the route wearing sand shoes in 1966! A grand testament to the pioneers of old.

1. Head up and left from alcove with T marker. Climb confidently on slick orange rock passing some thought-provoking placements. Run-out in top section. Wires and cams for belay.

2. Another bold pitch. Walk left across ledge for about 10m and then about 4m of vertical climbing (#0.5 Friend in slot) up into cave. Rap station/belay in the back of the small cave shared with Achilles.

3. Step out of cave and climb finger crack/corner to ledge. Dizzying exposure, secure jams, great rock and bomber pro. The best pitch of the route. Optional chains exist on far right of ledge. With two 50m ropes, this provides an epic escape via one of the best free-hanging abseils in Queensland.

4. Climb the crack/corner to ledge.

5. Avoid the chimney and instead climb the sweet crack up the slab to the left. To finish, simply scramble up the vegetated scree to the top of the mountain.

A pleasant crack starting 1.5 metres left of The Slab. Nothing particularly hard or dangerous, and good gear.

Marked 'DP'. Up corner crack and good protection to ledge with chains.

Marked 'A'. Just L of 'Sticky Fingers' at the obvious flared chimney. Bridge smooth chimney with good (albeit small) pro in the R crack to the ledge with tree and bolted anchor or continue up 'Hex Heaven'.

Short route at the far right end of the cliff. Nice warm-up for the fairly stiff 5.8 routes on the rest of the cliff.

A great beginner trad lead with plenty of bomber gear and good stances for placing. You can even practice your offwidth chicken arm and leg jamming at half height.

The crack located just to the left of Buzz Boys Beat.

Shares anchors with Buzz Boys Beat. If you're tall enough you can reach them from the ledge.

Line of three FH's 4m right of TST to chains. A bit runout in parts, but otherwise has a few nice technical moves.

The easy crack. Plenty of gear.

Corner between 'Radioactive Man' and 'Spook Eyes'. Well protected crack with some very nice climbing at the grade. Careful of loose rock.

Up to either rings for lower off (shared anchor with 'Spook Eyes') or 2 bolts on ledge for comfortable top belay.

First climbed in 2001 by Colin of Katoomba adventures and named Gardeners Crack but evidently not reported to the guide book editors.

Start between a pair of trees, just left of Little Flo. Short vertical start, to obtain the slab, then slab the rest of the way.

Awkward crackline following ring bolts.

The left-most bolt line on Spindrift wall. Opening moves to first bolt are a bit intimidating (consider a stick-clip), but real crux is when the route gets thin between bolts 2 and 3.

Located in the leftmost dihedral of the five open books area, this route begins with a 4th class scramble up to a bush. Then it's two or three pitches of varied climbing with corners, cracks, friction slab, and a bulge. Be careful of loose rock at the top, and consider belaying from the trees to the right instead of the left. Walk off left to descend with an optional single rope rappel.

Seemingly intimidating from afar, the Southeast Buttress of Cathedral Peak is a beautiful 5 pitch route filled with lovely moderate climbing.

A must do when in Tuolumne, Cathedral Peak can become quite crowded, fortunately the climbing offers many ways to navigate around other parties, at least down low (up high the face narrows, and parties tend to get bottlenecked).

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.

1. 35m (13) Up Hurricane Lamp Cracks, stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance. Take care with a large loose block on the right here as you prepare to start the next pitch.

2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace, ending at double bolt belay. It is possible to abseil or walk off from here (and most people do).

Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...

1. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

2. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of French Crack.