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A great lead at the grade, up through scoop on jugs, RBs to top.

Start 2m L of 'Kiwi'. Marked "H".

Brilliant moves all the way to the top. Best grade 16 at the cliff. First bolt is a little high but the moves up to it are solid. 5 FHs to DBB.

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB.

Has become a bit of a classic. 8 ring bolts. May be worth taking a sling or long quickdraw for the 2nd or 3rd bolt and last bolt, to avoid pulling the rope against corners of the rock.

Start 5m L of 'Idiot Wind'. Marked "TR".

Follow the line of 5 RBs to the anchors. A more direct finish was added when it was retrobolted, increasing the grade from 14 to 16.

Start up little corner thing and jug along to the top of the cliff.

Fantastic climb. Much of this climb remains in the shade until mid-afternoon so it can be feasible on a hot day. Running the first two pitches together can keep the belay in the shade until the top. Despite the daunting appearance a mega-rack isn't required, but make sure you have a couple of bolt hangers and a #4 cam.

1. 25m (12) Climb the slab just right of the corner until you can move left onto a large ledge.

2. 20m (14) Follow the main corner for a bit, then the left-hand line to a cosy cave.

3. 18m (16) Up 4 metres into chimney below roof (old bolt). Traverse out right and move up into corner and another old bolt. On up corner to small stance and two pitons. If you want some shade, traverse left to a cave on the arete.

4. 32m (16) Fairly sustained (FH) until past the overhang. Easily up slab.

The right route

Very nice crack climb. Layback up the crack until the crux at the crack finish (3/4 up), then up holds to the RBs.

Start at "SRO" mark.

Hard start to 1st bolt then continues much more easily. 5 RBS to DBB.

Start on blank wall 1m R of 'Anonymous'.

Retrobolted version of the original 'Anonymous' with a more direct start. Balancy climbing up wall past 2 RBs. Then on up corners and ledges finishing either up corner on R or straight up thin moves on face for more of a challenge. 6 RBs and DBB.

Another nice warm up for Duck Wall.

Fantastic slab climbing up immaculate rock. With modern gear it is not nearly the scare fest it used to be. Start at the gorgeous water streak up the middle of the face that commences off the slight ledge just above the path.

1. 30m (15) Climb to the ledge. Marginal gear.

2. 30m (16) The best pitch. Amazing climbing on incredible rock. Blast straight up the wall heading for the tree ledge.

3. 30m (14) A wandering pitch, starting from the left hand end of the ledge, and heading up and left.

Start: Start on the left side of the orange wall. Nice continuous climbing up the flake. Gain a rest on the ledge and continue up the arete.

The best 16 at the crag. Start up the chimney with technical bridging to a rest on the top of the semi-detached pillar. Step onto the R face and follow the line up to the top. Awesome climbing, bombproof gear and brilliant moves! Rap down DBB above Elastic RURP to avoid getting ropes stuck.

Good solid rock, some long moves. Four UBs to DUBB.

Start at U-bolt in black strip to the left of small cave and veer left through small overhang. 7 U-bolts to double U-bolt belay.

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

Start 3m R of 'The Lemur's Femur' (which is faintly marked "SI").

Up past 5 RBs to ledge, then L to DBB.

Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.

1. 25m (14) Sustained climbing up the thin cracks to the big cave.

2. 25m (16) Move towards the front of the buttress and climb a short, difficult corner. Continue easily.

One of the best easy routes here.

Upgraded from 15 when a block came off. There's another still there at about 6m which might go someday so don't put your gear behind it.

Up the broken corner 3m R of 'Hadrian'.

[Dec 2012 - new steel RB's and lower off] Very Popular . An old classic. Tough linear start , or approach from the left traversing across the ledge. Up recessed edge, pull up right at bulge, then straight up wall to top overhang and over the top.

The start is easier if you are tall. Climb boldly up the front of the wide crack to avoid the thrutch. From there, wander into the bottom of this 4-sided chimney, with the stars being given only for the unique style of climbing you are about to have thrust upon you! If you are into this sick perverted style of climbing, give it two more stars! Chimney or bridge up this to a ledge at the top. Continue up the R in another chimney, or alternatively on the face. Belay at the chains of Infinity. Big gear is not essential to adequately protect this route.

Start in the corner, just right of the typical abseil line. Better than it looks with varied climbing and good jamming at the top on clean rock.

The best sport climb at its grade in the Grampians!? Start of the R end of the ledge about 10 R of CIC. Follow the bolts and jugs up the face to DUB. Best to rap off as lowering kills the rope.

Easy but reachy. Up to ledge , hard move then R to arete and jugs and L to anchor. There is a harder variant moving left to the centre of the wall clipping one bolt. 19?

Anchors replaced 2017, then after breaking biners, replaced again 2020.

Start at first line of bolts R of waterfall, 5m L of 'Junket'.

Nice crux start then follow line of 5 RBs just L of the tree to DBB. Relatively shady which is great on hot afternoons but then it does take a while to dry out after rain.

The 2013 SE Queensland guidebook lists this climb as 'Frontier Psychiatry'.

Start 3m R of 'Something About Sandy'.

Was a dodgy trad climb, now retrobolted with 4 FHs and a DBB.

Start behind jacaranda tree about 15m L of 'Arete', and 2m right of Offal. Marked "MD".

Climbs better than it looks. Up twin choss cracks clipping bolts to the left. Head left at the ledge, and up balancy wall to chossy, crux rooflet. Breach the rooflet to the left, clip the last bolt on 'Offal' and finish at chains shared with 'Offal'.

FA Unknown, original line unknown

The nice face between 'Sickle' and 'Little Thor' gets classed as "serious" as it has seen plenty of groundfalls and a death. However, the pro is fine if you know how to put it in. Treat it as an exercise to see how much you can place.

Start 3m L of 'Little Thor', immediately right of 'Sickle'. The nice glassy face with small cracks for wires and hardest moves at top. Note the arete just to the R has been done at 18.

Up layaway arete.

Undercut start on arete past 5 FH to DBB anchor as for 'Brian Boru'. Apparently this has grown a bolt left of the start... which was certainly not discussed with the first ascentionist, but it probaby does explain why so many people describe this as soft... the line is actually via overhung start direct up the arete.

A fun route with some good exposure and good photo opportunities. Ring bolts. Take about 10 draws.

1. 16m (14) Climb up to the set of double rings.

2. 20m (16) Traverse left to the airy arete and up to double rings on the ledge on the left of the cave (not the ones 2m further left). Don't clip the brown bolts halfway along the traverse, they belong to Humpback Sushi Roll.

3. 14m (12) Up and R around the arete onto the face. There are double rings at the top for belaying.

Straight up knobs just left of the tree branch on top.

Starts 2m left of My Brothers Keeper. Stickclip high first bolt. Climbs the steep rock on rings to shared anchor with MBK.

Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up.

Up over bulge on big holds.

Great climbing, wanders a bit. Reachy. 1m left of the seam in the middle of the wall. 4 BR's to DRB lower off.

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

Classic roof traverse above great space

Start: Right hand corner/offwidth, as for A

1. 16m (14) Thrutch up chossy corner then up and left to belay at bottom of offwidth. Trad and manky carrot belay.

2. 24m (16) What you're here for. Up offwidth in left corner, carrot at top then traverse into space. Watch your helmet at the squeeze. Up at chimney, belay there on gear or at two carrots on ledge outside. Can abseil here with a 60m.

3. 10m (14) Up and crank over side of offwidth, tree belay

Start 5m L of 'Desperation Wall'.

Very well protected climbing in good position for the grade. Grade 16 leaders love this route.

1. 35m 12 FHs to rap station (DBB).

2. 35m 11 FHs to rap station (Ring and chain). Use long draws to minimise drag coming under and around the rooflet

Two 60m ropes will get you back to the ledge at the start, scramble down from here. Alternatively, head up 3m from P2 anchors to bushy ledge and walk left to join up with the Caves Route.

Start 3m L of 'Asteroid Belt'. Marked "SE".

Follow 4 RBs, trending slightly right, to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Start: 1m right of Unethical on the other side of the boulder.

A route on this pinnacle for the mere mortal. A fun climb!

A good introduction to lead climbing, 11 RBs lead to a pumpy and steep finish, mantle then a top belay.

Start: 5m L of LFTS.

Marked DM. Climb starts approximately 1m left of "The Whorl". Very steep start off cairn into roof then up using handlebar hold then up the juggy arête. 3 ringbolts then right at top to shared anchor with The Whorl.

Regularly recommended to those who can't jam. Start 3m right of Pedro. Layback and jam the water-washed corner, with technical moves L around the roof.

Sit start on the big juggy hole and climb straight up the wall on a series of jugs to a tricky top out. Top out is not too bad if you suss out the top holds before embarking (try not to get caught on the tree when topping out).

Crag classic. Don't miss it. Start on the face facing west then follow the bolts up and left onto the arete, to the top. Great exposure! Chain anchor.

Up flake (RB), head left then steeply up past 2 rings. 'Fantastic' Climbing. New Lower offs installed.

[New - April 2012] Gaston start, to layback, up horizontal flakes , pull out fingernails to reach the major ledge. Up sheeding sandstone bulge, find that high pull-up bar - but careful on that last 'exposed' move to the Loweroffs platform ! A common solo problem cleaned up with some useful bolts.

Start 2m L of 'Orbital Tether'. Marked "BH".

Climb straight up to below the overhanging block clipping 2 RBs visible from the base. Clip the 3rd RB on the block then climb up the block on its L side (crux). Once over the block anchor is hiding over the lip. . Rebolted 2014.

Starts just to the right of Sun Chaser. Contrived route on ringbolts.

The major left-facing corner facing 'Kestrel' is another well-trodden favourite. The second and third pitches can be fairly easily combined, especially if double ropes are used.

1. 25m (13) Climb the corner to a block on the right just below the overlap.

2. 13m (16) Short, technical layback flake then move right into chimney and up to stance. The wide crack leading directly into the chimney goes at the same grade but is not as good.

3. 13m (15) Take the right-hand of the twin grey corners (The corner on left is 18).

4. 40m (13) Go up 7 metres, left to skirt overhang and follow line up slightly right to Flinders Lane.

Start 2m R of 'Dirty Situations'. Marked "I".

Way too runout as a sport route so take trad gear. For example, potential big groundfall before 3rd bolt = can be protected with a small cam such as a C3. 4 RBs and DBB.

Technical & balancy climbing to 1st RB, crux move over the lip to 2nd RB, up the thin, balancy face to 3rd RB, more thin moves on slab above to 4th RB, then easier ground to chains.

Very slippery rock.

Start: Traverse right from the cave, or start directly up left side of the lower cave. Move up to the detached block and execute a nice move to gain a stance on the block. Follow the well protected corner.

Start as for Witch, but when a crack departs to the right about 6m from the ground, follow it to a ledge. Clip the bolt and reach up high, then follow jugs to the top.

Please take note that someone has incorrectly labelled this climb with a P (presumably for Pollux, which is the climb to the left). Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route!

Start 2m L of 'Alien Encounter'. Marked "AB".

Follow the line of 3 RBs to DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Stays just left of the arête. Careful belay for the last clip.

Start at the end of the corridor, about 5m left of LFTS.

Shares first bolts with Nisoi Trizonia. Aperanto Galazio bolts are marked with red paint when they separate.

Start: Start at the obvious cleft about 15m to the right of the Orca wall.

Up the pockets through the overhanging wall, about 4m right of 'Tullah's Tease', then continue easily up the line above.

Sport route 10m L of Jugular Pulse.

1. Start as for PIS, right into fantastic corner and up around the slight rooflet. Go left under bulge at top to anchors as for Gently Mine.

2. Not really worth doing. Head right from belay stance over bulge. Up wall past two BRs to top. 50m rap to ground. Rebolted August 2017.

A perspective from the one of the first ascentionist, Keith Bell. From a slight online interview conducted, Keith had the following to share with the world about the first ascent of this beautiful climb:

I was keen on Greek and Roman History/Myths and the Gates of Janus refer to a temple with two doors. I think they were opened when Rome was at war and closed in peace time. A Janus Head is also two joined heads looking in different directions. I think the name came to me because a) it sounds good and b) The climb lies at the bottom of an access gully.

Recently I wrote the following: By the start of 1970, a few climbing goals had been kicked and others had arisen to take their place. In the Warrumbungles, Howard Bevan and I had made the fourth ascent of Lieben, and the first ascent of the Gates of Janus at Mt Boyce. Rather stupidly this ascent was made in the first wear of my first pair of friction boots, a pair of RD’s that featured brown suede leather uppers and bright red laces. The rubber on the sole was case hardened and since it had not been roughed up made the layback up the corner a very slippery affair. The ascent was also cam and hexcentric free leaving the only large protection available, the extruded aluminium hexagonal chunks that were fashioned and sold by John Ewbank.

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

A popular climb, and the easiest in the area. Can be easily linked in one single pitch. Finish as for Harlequin

Start: On top of the large boulder at the base of the cliff at the far right of the crag.

Right of ferny crack; mostly straightforward with plenty of holds and a little move three quarters of the way up.

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

Easiest of the crag

2m L of Dunes is a R facing corner. Start by scrambling (or roping) up this to the top of the huge flake.

1. 25m (16) Grey slab to strenuous chalked wall, then head L up stepped ramp to a belay ledge on the arete. (The original avoided the overlap by going way off R - this better direct way was done by Keith Lockwood and Geoff Schirmer 4/2/78).

2. 10m (-) Step L then up over worrisome blocks and belay under orange corner. 2b: Variant 15m Straight up arete with reasonable pro and rock.

3. 15m (16) Up orange corner then R under arching roof to arete.

4. 25m (-) Up the line then L onto wall and belay under steep little crack (which is pitch 5 of Dunes).

5. 32m (-) Traverse L, ignore scrubby crack, and take the balancy grey slab then join the final corner of Dunes.

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish and rap anchor behind the top of the pillar.

Protection: Full rack: nuts, hexes, cams up to 3 - 3.5 Description: 210 metres, grade 16, fun climbing - all trad.

To find the start: up the hiker's track, about a 30min hike, to the first orange triangles below "Echo Point", rock scramble up the boulders to the lookout (rocky outcrop above Viewpoint Buttress), from the lookout, walk up about 30-40m above, to another orange triangle on a rock:

East Face - East Face - short cut

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - short-cut in to Ruby

turn Right here & follow the track a couple of hundred meters past the "Jezebel" cracked pillar into the gully to where the track turns right & starts to slope downhill. When you arrive in the steep gully behind Egg Rock, cross the gully & climb the rock face opposite Egg Rock & bush-bash up left towards an arched cave in the main wall. Belay from this bent tree directly below the center point on the arch.

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI belay tree

1. (45m 14) Take the easy ramp up right into the alcove & follow the chimney thru to 2nd chimney & corner, up obvious crack (8-10m), or alternately, step out right onto face around pillar & up to large belay ledge.

2. (45m 13) A zigzaggy pitch: tough moves straight up, mount the ledge, then walk up the track, right, for about 10m & climb the left leaning ramp (grade 2-3), keep trending left, up the slope, to a pillar & prominent L-facing corner. Belay at the piton below the corner (or better, below the pillar where you are sheltered from possible rockfall.)

3. (45m 16) Up face for 4-5m to a small root (first gear), passing a small cave & follow the line of weakness up past a small gnarly pine tree on the face. Up to ledge and into the prominent left facing corner, up corner 2-3m & step out right onto face & arete. From here up another 10m to belay ledge. Another piton here marks the belay for pitch 4.

4. (28m 13) Choose your own adventure up any line you choose to the trees above & belay on ledge above

5. (45m 14) Up the scooped alcove either way, ending up in the prominent crack on the RHS & topping out via this. (NOTE: a nice finish to this route is to link the last 2 pitches using a 70m rope.)

When exiting the mountain, track Right across the caldera as shown here to avoid the nasty 20m cliff at the gully:

★★★ Ruby Of India 16 - ROI exit route

Look for a big forked gum tree, this will bring you to an easy (4-5m) down-climb.

Start 2m R of 'Standing Room Only'.

Follow L-trending line of 5 RBs, finishing at 'SRO' DBB.

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Start 2m R of 'Lichen the Candy'. Unmarked.

Follow the line of 5 FHs to a dedicated DBB. The crux sequence will definitely keep you interested at the grade.

Climb furthest to the right on the cliff. Marked "AZ" but the paint is coming off. Hardest part is the start. Just beware of your poor belayer if you can't make it to the first clip! Long fall to the path. The large block on the right, one used to gain the stance & 1st clip, has now come off. This means the route is now a couple of grades harder and riskier. One has to negotiate the crux unprotected.

Follow the line of 4 RBs straight up to a DBB. Rebolted 2014.

Has seen a few fatalities, and not a great choice if its at your limit because you have to fiddle to get gear in the middle of the hardest climbing to protect a runout. A #5 camalot will help up high. Belay off UBs near the tree roots and on the boulder, not off the tree.

First line of bolts, to the left of the start of the access traverse.

One move wonder, but still ok.

Start 2m R of 'Conscientious Pontius'.

The finger crack with forks at the top. Finish R up the ramp and corner.

Up the dark crimpy slab. Really awesome !! Best of the 3 routes on the dark slab.

A nice route when dry. 3m L of HAS. Pull onto the grey slab with a grade 19 crank, then cruise up passing a BR and two FHs to an awkward bulge. Finish past a final BR to a DBB.

Worth doing? Yes. Worth a star? hmm...

Start: Start in the middle of the slim S face of 'Fang Buttress'.

Past Python, on LHS of cave.

Up the side of cave, right across the top, then straight up - now fully rebolted.

Climb the easier angled arête immediately to the R of 'Lost Souls'. Start in the diagonal crack about 1m to its right, on less than perfect rock. H.Jackson, May 94.

The original route started as for Law Enforcer and was graded (18), so add a grade or two if you start that way.

Starts up the front of the rib, with gear before the first bolt. After the second bolt, step right around the arete then up the pocketed wall

Start 2m L of 'Stoat Clips Bolts'. Marked "BO".

Start at short flake right of where the track meets the base of the huge block.

Up flake (good cam in pocket on right) to ledge. Up the lovely sustained slab above (3 good BRs). Double RB belay / rap anchor. Traversing left at the top only scores you a 14!

Protection:

Cams: BD #1 (red), BD #.5 (purple)

Carrots: 3

Anchors: Good ledge with ring bolts plus shackles.

Start 4m R of 'Standing Room Only'. Marked "SF".

Follows the obvious finger crack to top. One of the best trad routes at 'KP'.

Start 2m right of ICSJ. Easily climb up to ledge, before it steepens and moves left across face on rings to a blank and intimidating finish. There are two options after the 6th? bolt. Either move left and up blankish looking wall (grade 21) or move right onto MD and finish up that. Both are good.

The left side of the juggy orange streak.

Start at the belay ledge at the top and left of Pintle Pitch one. Layback crux at the start and some spicy slab climbing with fiddly pro. Single bolt with rappel ring at belay (can be backed up with cams). Offset nuts and smallish cams are handy. Rap down R to final pitch of Pintle, or L and through very tight squeeze.