Grado | Vía | Estilo de equipamiento | Popularidad | Zona | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
AU:10 | ★★★ Eskimo Nell
Wonderful climbing up the right side of the Dunes Buttress, with virtually every pitch offering something of interest.
PA: John Moore, Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter & Laurie Beesley, 1968 | 130m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★★ D Major
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe. Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.
PA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★★ Conifer Crack
1
9
40m
2
9
40m
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).
PA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964 | 80m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★★★ Arachnus
1
8
40m
2
8
21m
3
9
14m
4
8
30m
A truly great climb up the middle of the Watchtower. Many variants are possible, especially in the middle section; yes they have already been climbed. Start up the right-hand of the two deep cracks at the base of The Watchtower. This is just left of the undercut section (Pumping), and 9m R of Watchtower Chimney.
PA: Ian Speedie & Rob McQuilkin, 1964 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★★★ Siren
1
4
25m
2
8
35m
3
8
35m
4
6
25m
5
9
25m
A wonderful long classic, climbed at the same time as Introductory Route. A remarkably well-conceived line, it culminates in a magnificent final corner. Start as for Introductory Route, on the right side of the Tiptoe Ridge buttress, about 10 metres right of a major corner (Ordinary Trees), where two detached blocks are sitting just off the ground. There's an overhang about 6 metres up and a large dead tree marking the top of the pitch.
From here either walk off left along terrace and scramble up little gully and wall to top or climb little right-facing corner just left of final belay. This is grade 11. PA: Greg Lovejoy & Steve Craddock, 1963 | 150m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★★★ Syrinx
1
10
20m
2
10
20m
3
10
35m
4
8
38m
5
9
12m
6
8
25m
7
7
20m
The first three pitches in particular offer superb climbing at the grade, while the final pitches provide an opportunity to explore those high balconies dominating the upper reaches of the cliff. The first two pitches are often combined. While the first part of the climb only spends a small amount of time in the chimney, some parties have mistakenly climbed the chimney in its entirety. This is not a club that you should aspire to join. Despite its enjoyable nature, there have been a number of serious injuries and a death on this climb. Here the start of the fourth pitch has been revised to reduce the danger of a long fall to the belay ledge.
PA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 170m, 7 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Camelot
Slabby start right of Minimus then the corner-crack to the top. PA: Phillip Stranger | 13m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Mesa
Originally graded 6 via the ordinary chimney, and not highly rated. Now that the loose bits are gone, the start has been straightened out up the face off the boulder, and a lower-off has been added, this is one of the best easy grade routes in this part of Araps, with a wide variety of climbing. Start: Start off the top of the big boulder on the ledge. PA: Graham Squire & Clive Parker, 1966 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Hesitation
SSGICs to top-out with 2 bolt belay. PA: J Boyton, 1994 | 15m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Grey Arete
Narrow rib at the L end of the lower cliff. Follow arete and climb L into a large crack and then continue R up the pinnacle to a DRB belay (25m rap into R gully). | 32m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:10 | ★ SPQR
Inexplicably given 3 stars in previous guides. Start 1m R of Consul's arete. Up the R sloping crack then R up larger crack. PA: Bernie Lyons, Steve Craddock & Gary Lovejoy, 1971 | 13m | Werribee Gorge | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Serpent
Fantastic climbing. There is a variant start to the left at the painted initial "S" but the way described is better. Start below right-hand line up the sombre cleft, right of the initial "S".
PA: Keith Lockwood, Geoff Uebergang & Gary Sudholz, 1967 | 43m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★★ The Shroud
1
6
28m
2
10
22m
3
10
25m
4
8
43m
Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.
PA: Unknown, 1965 | 120m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Holdup Line
Very nice. Start: Immediately right of 'Bullet Buttress'. A steep wall leads to a baby chimney, then up easily and step left into BB. PA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Hope
Bottomless crack 3m R of Charity at the R crack. PA: Rob Taylor & Jerry Grandage, 1968 | 16m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Sunday Afternoon Walk
Short but good. An interesting chimney & jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life! PA: Alan Millband & Ron Collett | 12m | Frog Buttress | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Xena
1
8
35m
2
9
22m
3
5
23m
4
10
30m
Start: Start at the right edge of the Pinnacle face below right-leaning flake/crack, about 10 metres right of 'Siren'.
PA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Stonehinge
Start 1m L of 'Diagonal'. Marked "SH". Now retrobolted as an easy beginner's lead. First bolt is easy to reach but high and move near the top is hard for the grade so more a lead for competent climbers learning to lead rather than outright beginners. 3 RBs to DBB. PA: Col Smithies & Malcolm Argent, 1986 PAL: David Reeve, Ruth Reeve & Vincent Geisler, 2012 | 12m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:9 | ★ Sickle
Impossible to get lost on. Starts above the plaque on the north-west side of the crag. It's the obvious wide chimney, that narrows to a crack near the top. PA: Garry Kerkin & Co, 1965 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Long Bow
The groove with snap-o-licious flakes and a tricky finish. Start: 1m R of 'Working Class Hero'. PA: Ed Briner & Norm Osborne, 1970 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 R | ★★★ Arachnus Variant (Minerva)
1
8
40m
2
8
12m
3
9 R
23m
4
8
30m
A very popular variant on Arachnus, but more serious because of the poorly protected section on pitch three.
PA: Ivan Dainis & Gwenn Ward, 1965 | 110m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Lishenbak
Get here early for this one. PA: J Lorinez, W Williams & B Blunt | 30m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★ Hanging Garden
Start 2 m R of 'Spooge In A Glove'. Climbs the L trending ramp to anchors (shared with 'Spooge In A Glove'). 3 RBs. PAL: Paul Pagoldh & Steve Kloske, 2014 | 15m, 3 | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:10 | ★ Sweet Irish
1
9m
2
10
40m
Start: Wall to the right of OE.
PA: L.Smith & B.Postill, 1967 | 49m, 2 | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★ Clytemnaestra Buttress
Start as for C.
PA: Garry Kerkin, Ian Speedie & Mike Stone, 1965 | 45m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Cave Climb
Step R from cave to ledge. Then up corner or nose, both with poor pro. Start: Start as for 'Cricket Bats in a Box'. PA: Maurice & Keith Leslie, 1967 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★★ Sunstroke
An easy, well-protected popular classic. Climbed on a searing summer's day, it was the first climb done on 'The Northern Slabs', taking the line of least resistance. Start at a slanting crack eight metres left of 'Equilibrium'.
This is often run together into two pitches (1/2, 3/4) rather than four. If you love slabs it's also possible to combine P2 and P3 by slabbing up as for Ephemeros, avoiding the short corner on P3. PA: Peter Aitchison & Ian Raine, 1968 | 120m, 4 | Orroral area | ||
AU:10 | ★★★ Speigal's Overhang
1
10
30m
2
9
40m
3
10
20m
4
6
30m
PA: Doug Hatt & Rodney Coles, 1963 | 120m, 4 | The Cathedral Range | ||
AU:9 | ★ Jezebel
On top of elevated block, in front of the vertical crack. An excellent route for beginners. Step across onto the wall and right to BR. Head straight up the wall (small cam and BR) to rounded top out. Double RB belay / rap station. | 11m, 2 | Barrenjoey | ||
AU:9 | ★ Keyboard
Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear. PA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter., 1968 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Anthony's Arete
Start on the arete right of 'Locris', and follow it up the slab. Take trad gear for the top if you'd be uncomfortable with easy climbing through a 4-5m runout between the last bolt and the anchors - can step around to front of buttress and clip 5th bolt of OFTM now (Dec 2016) PA: Liam Aarons, 2014 | 20m, 4 | Camels Hump | ||
AU:9 | ★★ The Eighth
1
8
24m
2
9
25m
3
9
30m
4
8
20m
PA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Robyn Lewis (via a harder pitch 2 variant), 1963 | 99m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Return of the Fush
Well protected line on left side of buttress to the right of Grey Arete. Climb easily up the rib with the big trench to the wall at top on left with the shallow double corner. Good wires in the left corner then up to jugs and around right to follow the diagonal right leading line to the top and DRB. FA soloed. PA: Chris Baxter, Andrew Bowman & Mike Law, 1983 | 20m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:9 | ★★ Beau Geste
1
9
50m
2
9
13m
3
9
18m
4
9
25m
5
7
30m
A great adventure. Start below major chimney on left side of cliff. Note that numerous variants are possible, and have been done, from the middle of pitch 3 to the terrace at the end of pitch 4.
| 140m, 5 | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Three Sheets to the Wind
Another worthwhile easy climb that adds to the range of options for beginner leaders at this crag. 5 bolts to a DBB PA: Mel Rowland & Stuart Sims, 2 Sep 2018 | 12m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:9 | ★ The Parson's Nose
Good rock. Takes the prominent prow 30 metres down left of Mason's Apron. There's a small, chipped mark near the ground.
PA: Peter Watling, Andrew Bowman, Glen Corcoran & Phil Hay, 1973 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ The Deacon
The crack at the left end of the wall has a tricky move at half-height. Start: Start 5 metres left of "Deacon's Dilemma". PA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 12m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ J Meister
First climb on the right of the descent gully. Josie climbs her age on her first project. Equip: B Jung PA: Josie McCullogh, 2012 | 8m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Black Orpheus
1
7
30m
2
10
25m
3
4
25m
4
10
32m
5
3
23m
A great, easy 135m multipitch route although pro can be pretty sparse on p2&3 and non-existant on p5. A good initiation to what to expect from Tibro multipitches. Can be done in three pitches with 60m rope. Start: About 50m L of Candy Mountain at big corner/gully, behind a rock apron. Marked 'BO' (very faint). ★★ Black Orpheus 10 - "BO"
PA: Sid Tanner & Andrew Spiers, 1969 | 140m, 5 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
AU:10 | ★ An-tics
Thin crack with lots of good holds and bomber gear! PA: FRA Chris Hurstfield Norm Johnson, 1984 | 20m | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Vertigo
A classic climb up a steep, exposed wall and slab on good rock. An excellent intro to climbing at the Warrumbungles. Can be climbed in two pitches. Scramble up to below the red-brown wall in middle of W Face, between prominent buttress and Abseil Gully (10 m L of Abseil Gully). Start just left of the 'V'
PA: Roger McDonald & Alex Hromas, 1961 | 95m, 4 | Warrumbungles | ||
AU:9 | ★ The Priest
Chimney-crack 2 metres left of "Prelate". PA: Murray Taylor & Rod Sutherland, 1967 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Intro
Straight up the set of ledges immediately to the left of the roof, until you reach the two bolt belay. Plenty of spots for gear. | 14m | Queanbeyan area | ||
AU:9 | ★ Hell's Bells
Traverse left and up through a wide crack. Start: Start 5 metres up and right of "Armageddon" at initials "HB" PA: Chris Baxter & Andrew Smith, 1967 | 13m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Exploding Tomatoes
Up, then L on ledges. Finish up black crack in upper L wall. Start: Start 1 m R of 'Strife on the Gravy Train'. PA: Campbell Mercer, Noel Coward & Peter Watling, 1994 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ S'easy
Short buttress with undercut start Equip: B Jung PA: J Reay, 2012 | 8m, 4 | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★ First Date
Really good beginner route. | 14m, 4 | Mountain Quarry | ||
AU:9 | ★ Roger the Cabin Boy
One of the easiest sport climbs in the Blue Mountains. Good one for the kiddies. PA: Duncan Gow & Cam O'Leary, 22 Ag 2018 | 14m, 5 | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:9 | ★ Great Unwashed
Start at parallel cracks 3 meters left of direct start. PA: G.Owens, L.Williams & J.Wilson, 1969 | 20m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:9 | ★ Spondonical
Start 1 metre right of The Slab. Head up an easy right-veering crack, finishing at a two-bolt belay. Your pick as to which one! | 16m | Queanbeyan area | ||
AU:10 | ★ Neta
Companion route to Mesa. Start in chimney left of that route and follow the arete. Exit R to rap chain above Mesa. PA: Unkonwn, 2000 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | Three Nuns
A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation. PA: Mike Meadows & Chris Meadows., 1969 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
AU:10 | ★ Hard Drain
Good, but bears no similarity to the 'Buffalo' megaclassic! Start: Start 2-3m R of OB.
PA: Bill Andrews & Alan Hope, 1984 | 26m, 2 | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:9 | Justine
PA: Iain Allan, 1971 | 19m | Morialta | ||
AU:9 | ★ Short and Sweet
Not the most classy route to be found. Stop and belay at the large tree. Scramble easily off L, or rap. PA: Ross Allen & Ben Whitehouse, 1969 | 10m | Frog Buttress | ||
AU:9 | ★ Dracophyllum Corner
Blast up the obvious corner past a bit of choss, loose rocks and well, some Dracophyllum plants! PA: Ian Brown & Bob McMillan, 1987 | 30m | Point Perpendicular | ||
AU:9 | ★ Diagonal Crack
The major skanky diagonal cleft. | 35m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Ultimate Conception
PA: Ian Lewis & Lyle Closs, 1974 | 45m | Freycinet National Park | ||
5.4 | ★★ Bunny
PA: Ann Church & Kris Raubenheimer, 1955 | 43m | Shawangunks | ||
AU:10 | ★ Lazy Lizards
To the right of the arete. Equip: S Puchala PA: S Puchala, 2012 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:9 | ★ Craddock Crack
This baby offwidth was possibly first climbed by Bob Craddock. The left-most deep crack on the roadside face. | 13m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Hope Variant Start
Up Great Pissing Ledges stopping below small roof then step right into 'Hope'. | 16m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Frolic
Solo of course! Start: The offwidth. Would be nice with a lower off. PA: R.Young, 1982 | 13m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★ The Fires of Jealousy
Pleasant climbing up good rock. Start: Back down 5m L from BB amongst trees at fallen log. First climb on LH wall of the 'Slider' gully. PA: Gareth Llewellin, 2006 | 25m, 7 | Mt Tibrogargan | ||
AU:9 | ★ Cruise Control
Beginners delight. The right hand side of the easy angled slab. 4 RB's to DBB. PA: Alicia Townshend | 12m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||
AU:10 | Runnel Wall
Start 2m R of Blackened Slab. Step up R on ledge then up to big ledge. Left to nose and up to shared lower-off. Set up for a practice belay in the middle off 2 rings. PA: Michael Law, 2014 | 10m, 3 | Alfords Point | ||
AU:10 | Romulus
PA: Peter Jackson & Steve Craddock, 1962 | 12m | Camels Hump | ||
AU:10 | ★ Aphrodite
A slightly bold first pitch and an exhilirating finish. Start: The face just left of the 'Tiptoe Ridge' buttress is marked by the deep chasm of 'The Slot'. Start directly below this chasm.
PA: Simon Mentz & Glenn Tempest, 1998 | 95m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
III | ★★★ Schusterweg
1
III
30m
2
III
15m
3
III
15m
4
III
30m
5
III
20m
6
III
15m
Links in der Ostwand schrofige Schlucht, oben linksh., zu Sandband (Blockschlinge). Auf diesen 15m nach rechts (Blockschlinge + 4.AÖ). Kamin im Winkel bzw. dessen re. Kaminkante (PORZELLANKANTE) zu Abs. (links NR). Rechts schräge Kamine zu Abs. (1.R des KRIPPENER WEGES). Rechts seichte Rinne hoch, nach wenigen Metern Umstieg in rechte Rinne u. diese zu Verklüftung (rechts auf kl. Pfeiler Nachholöse). In der Kluft zur Schusterplakette u. Kamin absteigen. (Oberhalb des Kamingrunds Stand an Knotenschlingen. Nicht an der dünnwandigen SU!!) Rechts kurzen engen Kamin zum unteren Reitgrat, diesen bis zum zum Ende u. links überdachte Wandstufe zu gr. Abs. (Schlinge). Dahinter zu Kamin und linksgeneigte Rippe (oberer Reitgrat) z.G. Ausführliche Wegbeschreibung. Topo. PA: Oscar Schuster & M. Klimmer, 1892 | 130m, 6, 3 | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
AU:10 | Strawberry Alarm-clock
A classic of the chimney style and a must do if you're into that sort of thing. The dark chimney to the left of DWHP. A challenging lead for the novice climber. Despite reputation the climb offers good placements the whole way. Make sure to extend gear below large block (crux) at half height followed by a run out section if you don't have a #6 cam or big bro. 30 meters to top out. PA: Rick White & Chris Meadows, 1968 | 20m | Frog Buttress | ||
5.4 | ★★ Route B
Start below the large thin flake. (It feels really solid, but I wouldn't put pro under it, it is large and thin.) Follow the obvious large crack to 2 bolts for anchors. Takes protection really easily -- a good route for a first trad lead. | 10m | Eardley Escarpment | ||
AU:10 | ★ Simple Life
Up the middle of the gently angled slab. 3 RB's to DBB. PA: Gavin Lyon | 12m | New Nowra - Braidwood Road | ||
AU:10 | ★ Intro RH Variant Finish
As for Climb A, but take a committing step out right into the next crack and then climb up. | 14m | Queanbeyan area | ||
AU:10 M4 | ★★★ Ozymandias Direct
1
M2
25m
2
M4
35m
3
M4
40m
4
10
8m
5
M3
35m
6
30m
7
2
37m
8
M4
30m
9
M3
40m
10
10 M2
15m
11
M3
Start beneath the massive corner blasting up the start of the highest part of the wall. Bivy options: There are a few decent spots around the base. Big Grassy (which is not flat by any means) and the small flattish ledge 8m below are the most luxurious bivvy options on the route. The fixed hangers at the end of pitch 6 and The Gledhill Bivvy at the end of pitch 8 offer waterproof spots for a portaledge. Gledhill and Big Grassy also have hammock anchors.
PA: Geoff Gledhill & Alan Gledhill, 1972 | 300m, 10 | Mount Buffalo | ||
AU:10 | ★ Player
| 20m, 6 | Mountain Quarry | ||
AU:9 | ★★ Breakaway
Just right of Sasha. Up the obvious flake, then left around the bulge along the obvious line. PA: Norm Booth, John Smart & Ray Lassman, 1978 | 15m | Orroral area | ||
3+ | ★★ Stier
| 12m, 4 | Frankenjura Nord | ||
AU:10 | The Minstrel
Take the easiest way up the face. Start on the southwest face of the pinnacle (which faces into Central Gully). Short corner then (crux) traverse 4-5m L (nasty pendulum potential for the seconder), to gain the nice easy crack to the summit. There's also a more direct start about 6m further L which is a little harder and not as well protected, but with much reduced pendulum potential. PA: John Moore, 1965 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
5.4 PG | ★★★ Gelsa
PA: Becket Howorth, George Temple & Fritz Wiessner † | 61m, 3 | Shawangunks | ||
AU:10 | ★ Tactical Alert Stealth Hound
Start at 'Spidermonkey'. Nice beginner trad lead with good pro following the crack just R of 'Spidermonkey'. Finish at the 'Spidermonkey' DBB. Named after KP's well-known mascot - Proude's dog, Tash. (T.A.S.H) PA: Proude Hawkins, 2012 | 15m | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:9 | ★ Moritz
Crack 3 metres right of Max is also quite good. PA: Ann & Roland Pauligk, 1973 | 15m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Tullah's Pleased
Start 3m left of Tullah's Tease and up the bouldery start. Straight up through the middle of the orange face on ripper incut jugs. Stay in the middle of the face the whole way up. Protection is great all the way. | 12m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Queen of Diamonds
| 12m | The You Yangs | ||
AU:10 | ★ Carrot Cake
Line of carrots above the "test" lower-offs Equip: Barry Jung, 2017 PA: Barry Jung, 2017 | 8m | Blue Mountains | ||
AU:10 | ★★ Threadneedle
1
10
35m
2
10
25m
3
35m
4
20m
An adventure. There are at least 3 ways of getting past the cave. The way I consider best is used in the description and the alternatives are at the end. Start: Start at the base of diagonal ramp that 'Sluice' and other routes scramble up. For this route, it is probably easier to belay from the ground than to set up a belay at the top of the ramp.
PA: Steve Craddock, Sue Priestly, John Cargill (var), Bob Craddock & Jerry Grandage Easter., 1965 | 120m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
AU:10 | Traverse To Bufo
Start at 'By Ignorance'. Not really a traverse but an easy L-tending scramble up to the 'Bufo Marinus' anchors. Often soloed to set up a top rope on 'Bufo Marinus'. PA: Chris Meadows & Rick White, 1968 | 7m | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:9 | ★ Odlid Baggins
Nice and long for these parts. Start: Initialled corner a few m R of 'Cypress'.
PA: Stan Manley (original p1) Bill Andrews (p2 1/12/84 & p1 variant 15/12/84), 1979 | 25m, 2 | Summerday Valley | ||
AU:9 | ★ Munchkin
Strenuous for the grade but has great jugs. The Shepherd guide description for Menagerie followed this line but the original Menagerie description clearly places it further right. Start at top of rise behind the largest conifer (?same place as Heavy Petting). PA: Unknown, 2000 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | ★ Frogs Hollow
The easy slab left of 'Milawa'. Original grade 10 start comes in from the left. Alternatively, there is a direct start at the tip of the nose, or a right hand variant start at the beginning of the gully, both of which are grade 14. Double RB belay. PA: Andrew Stevens, 1987 | 25m, 3 | Black Hill | ||
5.4 | ★★ Ecstasy Junior
| 46m | Seneca | ||
AU:9 | ★ Menagerie
Start right of largest conifer. Short red groove, traverse right then up to left-facing corner. Up corner and exit left. PA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
AU:9 | ★ Smooth Dancer
Up the left crack to the apex, continue up the crack stepping left into a wide groove. PA: Bernie McLachlan, T. McLachlan, John Smart, Ray Lassman & Norm Booth, 1978 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
III | ★★★ Südpfeiler
Rechts in der Südseite auf Absatz, dann rechts der Rippe folgen. An derem Ende über Reibungswand zum Gipfelaufbau. PA: Heinz Walther & K.-H. Walther, 1961 | 45m, 2 | Sächsische Schweiz | ||
AU:10 | ★ Max
Lovely short crack on the left side of the 'Hurts' Wall. PA: Roland & Ann Pauligk, 1973 | 15m | Arapiles | ||
AU:10 | Climb Twelve
Start 2 m right. Up blocks to a good stance. Mantle the ledge on the right and scramble out. Now fully bolted with practice anchors halfway. | 10m | Kangaroo Point | ||
AU:10 | ★ Tarantella
Up the right crack (the occasional summer residence of Bill Begg's pet tiger snake) to join 'Smooth Dancer'. PA: Norm, Ray, T. McLachlan, Bernie McLachlan & John Smart, 1978 | 20m | Orroral area | ||
AU:10 | ★ A Bad Dose Of Rigamortice
Start: As for Pockets Of Fun. Up to big ledge, then climb a bit Right and up to first FH a few metres up. Then up on good pockets to chains, passing another 2 FHs. PA: Ross Ferguson & Matt Williams, 2001 | 15m, 3 | Mt Ngungun | ||
AU:9 | ★★ Short Shrift
The clean square cut corner groove 5m left of 'Thanks for the Mammaries'. PA: Ian Brown (solo), 1981 | 15m | Kaputar | ||
AU:9 | ★ Jammer's Delight
Start marked. Easy corner past pillar and up L side of wall. PA: Jeff Boyton & Andrew Hedley., 1973 | 40m | The Rock | ||
AU:9 | Kitty's Litter
At the LH end of the slabs is a clean streak. Up onto the ramp [FH], move slightly R then up the streak past 3 FH to DBB. There is a slightly harder start to the R heading straight up to the 2nd FH. PA: David Lia & Margaret Shannon, 2 Jul 2017 | 15m, 4 | Halls Gap Area |