루트들 Africa에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

The easiest sport route in the country/Africa/Southern hemisphere? Almost anyone should be able to lead it even with no previous climbing experience. Climb the face 8m right of the short gully. First ascent: Soloed in the 80’s.

If the root looks like becoming a bush again, apply a chainsaw. Climb the face 10m right of the gully past 2 bolts. Same lower-offs as for VISIONS OF URBAN GLOOM.

This is the obvious easiest line on the boulder. It's juggy all the way up and easily doable for most climbers in flip flops.

Climb up the juggy slab any way you want.

Marked. Max (Gus' Weimaraner) has soloed this more times than you can count. Starting at the major corner, go diagonally right (as for 'Bongo'). Continue along the ledge around the (2nd) small fig tree, cross the major crack line to a 3 bolt anchor. Clip them and lower to the ground for your first lead. The 2nd can clean the draws and rap off the anchors. Alternatively reverse the traverse leftwards, removing draws from the bolts as you go, then carefully down climb to the ground in the corner.

On the far left of the slab, behind a tree. Stand-start up the easiest part of the face.

Hike (short rope if necessary)

Sit start on the lower part of the arête and climb directly up on big holds. Grade still open to consensus.

Easy warm-up traverse

Easiest route up the backside of the boulder. Stand-start with hands on two good holds at 10 and 2 o'clock - straight up.

Opposite 'Feng's Folly' where the left hand side of the kloof curves up into Red Gully is a 25m high grey buttress surmounted by bush. The top of the buttress, which is approximately at the base of the main face, may be reached by walking up the bushy slope on either side. Directly above the buttress, in the main face, is an obvious, wide, broken recess which slopes up slightly to the right. Traverse left 3m and climb to the top. This recess provides a route which is clear-cut and clean, characteristics which are usually lacking in climbs of this standard in the Magaliesberg.

Before you go down into the gully there are 2 short routes on the right. 5m right of 'Wall Banger'. Climb the left line to anchors on the right

The right line to U-bolt anchors.

Easy route left of 'Nathaniel The Serpent Wrangler.'

'Omu Porkupine' is named after the mammal that terrorized the tent of the first ascensionist for the better part of a night.

80m downstream of STAMVRUG GULLY, the faces are some distance above the kloof. Bash through the bush and proceed leftwards to a very obvious corner with an easy-angled slab forming the left-hand side. The start is a good tree at the base of the climb.

1. 40m 6 Climb in the corner, moving generally leftwards. Stance just before the corner runs out

2. 25m 6 Continue up the corner for 2m and generally right onto the nose and then up to a good tree.

A good warm up route.

Climb the very blunt arete -pretty cool, but high.

Ref: MCSA Journal 1945, pg 34.

Climb the arete.

Start by aiding (A1) up on three well camouflaged studs (bolt without hanger) to reach a twin crack system. From here free climb up. Old bolts!

Sit-start with both hands in scoop. CD to TO.

"Strange route but worth it for the amazing headwall crack above!" Climb the tree to a bolt, get on the wall and climb up to a crack, then diagonally left using edges to a bolt. Aid (A0) through the overhanging crack using 2 bolts and continue climbing the crack when you can place the first piece of gear.

Gear: Slings, small to medium cams, rack of nuts and extra mid-range nuts. Double ropes help reduce rope drag.

Juggy face.

An easy gully leading to the bed of the kloof. A prominent landmark at the top of this gully consists of two rock columns or undercut pinnacles (The Twins).

The obvious decent route with tree at base.

Sit-start, climb the juggy layback crack, CDR to TO.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

Comprises the lowest easy point of access on the right at the top end of the kloof. Commences about 20m downstream of 'Grey Gully' . The Twins provide an easy landmark for its location.

This is the usual decent route involving some scrambling.

Climb up and over the juggy bulge on the left.

At the far right end of the crag, an obvious and deep left-facing chimney.

An easy gully just below MATERNITY COUCH. Comprises the farthest downstream point of access to the kloof on left hand side. Not to be taken lightly, particularly when wet.

On the left side of the kloof immediately below the entry of the side kloof is a prominent buttress which due to its good rock, easy angle and general rough structure offers opportunity for easy climbs of grade 6 standard with the possibility of many variations and the linking together of different routes.

A great 1st lead into an exposed position. Follow 'Moses' to the 1st set of anchors below the last roof. Lower off before the Red Sea closes over you!

This gully is the most convenient route of access to the general climbing area from the north.

1. 21A1 Climb the corner under the big square roof and rail out left (pulling on cams) to the continuation crack. Hanging stance in the crack to the right and just above a tree.

2. 17 Follow the crack straight to the top.

No Description.

Sit start on flakes and climb directly up.

An easy route on the right of the kloof next to a group of large boulders.

A climb on the corner of Cedarberg and Tonquani. A number of grade 6 routes can be picked out on this section following the line of least resistance to the top. Useful descent route.

Lots of overlaps and the odd rock step.

Start on the underclings and climb the face.

Towards the right hand edge of the Dome a patch of trees and bush is concentrated at the top of the slope, leading up to broken rocks and boulders. Approximately from the middle of this patch of bush 'Dome Gully' shows up as a clearly defined feature leading up through broken rock and inclining slightly to the left.

The route lies to the right of the amphitheatre on the Central Turret. It follows a prominent rib that merges into the face halfway up and thereafter it ascends the face above. The first pitch commences on the left of the rib. Scramble up 6o feet to the bottom of two recesses.

1. 80 feet 'F inf.': Ascend the left-hand recess and pass through the bush to a broad ledge.

2. 85 feet 'F': A short distance to the left ascend a large block. Traverse to the left along the top of the block and climb up to a stance (piton).

3. 60 feet 'F: Ascend the recess by continuing past a possible line of traverse to the right until a good handrail is reached. Traverse to the right and continue up to a corner and large block.

4. and pitch 5 - 240 feet 'E': Walk round to the Crest of the rib and climbs straight up to a broad ledge below some overhangs.

5. Same as pitch 4.

6. 100 feet 'E inf.': Climbs to a stance visible on the right-hand skyline sonic 60 feet above the ledge (bush). An attempt was made to climb directly above the stance, but was abandoned owing to a dangerously loose block. Presumably this was the route followed by Mamacos and Schaff.

7. 60 feet 'A2': Two recesses will be noticed above. Climb up a few feet and traverse to the base of the left-hand one. Ascend the recess (s pitons) and overcome the bulge (2 pitons left in place) to reach an étrier stance next to another loose block.

8. 120 feet 'F sup.': This pitch is extremely exposed. Traverse to the right for 25 feet into the recess. Climb up the recess to the handrail and then traverse to the right, past the abseil cord, to a small stance. The strata and grips are all sloping the wrong way.

9. 40 feet 'F sup.': A thin, overhanging slit is visible on the skyline above and to the right. Climb up through this slit to a hidden stance.

10. 120 feet of scrambling upwards to the right takes one to a broad ledge. Walk left for about 300 feet to an obvious break.

11. 50 feet 'E': Climb up the recess and exit to the right to a stance below a bush.

12. 120 feet 'F: Continue past the bush and then move left into a gully on rounded grips.

Time for ascent: 8 hours.

An easy gully above 'Cactus Crag' giving access to the top of the krantz and the shortest way out to upper Cedarberg Kloof.

Climb the slabby arête.