루트들 Africa에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish.

The headwall face left and adjacent to The Schism offers what looks to be some challenging climbing. A few bits of tired pro (pitons and bolts) still remain from some past archaic project. Good luck with that!

Starting from the base of the Head Wall, continue hiking toward the summit, left and up around the Terminator. The cliffs to your right offer some areas to investigate as well as a variety of potential routes to the top of the Terminator. Side Winder is just one of these, and since the route itself isn’t that interesting, it won’t get a description here. Besides, you’ll probably have more fun poking around and finding your own way up. I mention it to let you know the area has been explored a little as a 5th class access to the summit of The Terminator Buttress.

10 Pipe lengths above the first weir, is a prominent flat-fronted pinnacle of the true left. It is upstream of the dry waterfall. The climb ascends the flat face of this pinnacle.

1. 20m 14 Climb the upstream corner for 5m then move right onto the front face. Ascend the narrow crack up the middle of the face using good holds to either side of the crack. Continue up past a prominent horizontal crack on good holds to the summit of the pinnacle. (Belay in cracks on pinnacle face as blocks on top are loose.)

2. 15m 14 Descend the back of the pinnacle to the nek. Ascend the main face to a tree.

Note: A very enjoyable climb.

Scramble to foot of lower main face.

1. 25m (F2) Start in centre of face. Ascend face to join diagonal recess running from right to left. Follow recess to big ledge.

2. 25m (F1) Climb left hand chimney system to narrow ledge below first bulge.

3. 15m (F2) Follow crack system. Surmount three successive bulges to grass ledge above. Traverse left around pinnacle and scramble up to ledge with blocks.

4. 20m (F1) Ascend left hand side of pinnacle to top.

1. 4 bolts

2. 5 bolts

3. 6 bolts

4. 3 bolts. Move diagonally right using slabs between the little bushes to an anchor

5. 4 bolts. Go slightly left up steeper slabs, then continue left of a large bush to an anchor.

6. 3 bolts. Climb straight up to a bolt, then diagonally right to the start of the steep upper sections.

7. 11 bolts

8. 5 bolts

9. 6 bolts

10. 3 bolts

1. 25m 14 Climb the face and then the crack left of 'Biliary Kills'.

Near the top of the gulley on the left is a grey face. Start right of the left edge of the face using a good diagonal jug. Move left when possible. Climb up to the tree, also a good belay.

There is a bottom pitch which was opened by Sherman Ripley, but this is seldom, if ever, climbed, and best avoided. The top pitch described here is worthwhile, giving steep climbing on good rock. Start at the top of a pinnacle reached by scrambling up a gully (Tree Route) at the extreme eastern end of the main ledge.

Climb up the face from the top of the blocks, moving slightly left at first and then right. Protected by fixed pegs of dubious vintage.

1. 30m 14 Just downstream of the JUNGLE ROCK buttress is a face. Climb the break and face to the top of the crag.

The climb follows a line up the centre of a buttress to the left of a large grass ramp, which ends at the neck between the main krantz and the free-standing upper section of the buttress. Scramble up to grass ledge below buttress. Take the second crack from the right, which has a tree growing out of its lower section.

1. 40m (F2+) Climb crack for 30m and step left onto ledge below crack in open book.

2. 28m (F2) Climb crack for 20m to platform. Step down left 3m onto face. Tension traverse left fro 3m (peg in place) to stane around corner.

3. 15m (F2 A1) Climb bulging crack above (A1 - 2 moves) and tontinue to ledge.

4. 25m (F2+ A1) Climb crack to tree (2m above large ledge). Traverse 10m right into recess (topped by large overhang).

5. 15m (F2 A1) Climb recess to small stance and chock belay.

6. 20m (F2 A2) Climb via bulging face (A1) to below overhang. Traverse left and surmount overhang (A2) to ledge. Scramble right and up to top.

This is a short, but pleasant climb. Start two metres left of the corner (Capital F) and climb the clean face past a small flake to finish up the steep face above.

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

Only for the most devout route ticker.

Climb the wide crack on the right of the wall. Continue up and then slight right into the wider chimney.

1. [12] 14m

2. [12] 8m

3. [12] 11m

4. [14] 18m

5. [11]

A pleasant route. Well protected on good rock. Start at the base of a shallow recess. The word "Pendulum" is painted on the rock.

1. Pull up to a small ledge. Climb up past a peg and then left across the recess and up to a ledge. Climb the open book to a stance out on the left.

2. Reverse the move onto the stance and traverse across the smooth face on the right. Continue along an obvious rail to a large flake. Traverse past this to a dead tree and climb directly up to a block. Exit easily above this.

1. 8m, 4a

   Start at the foot of broken groove midway between 'Fracture' and 'The Threader'.

   Climb the groove 5m, before launching rightwards over hanging slab. Step back left behind small pinnacle to belay on small fig tree.

2. 25m, 4b

   Climb offwidth crack on left past handy chockstone to surmount pointy boulder on left. Step right onto face a climb rightwards before stepping left below small roof. Climb loose overhang to pathetic tree on ledge. Continue up the dihedral, over boulders to top.

The climb is situated on the left side of Amphibian Tower.

1. 25m (F2) Climb crack system directly to the left of the Tower to large cubbyhole.

2. 25m (F2) Climb out left of cubbyhole and continue straight up to ledge. Traverse 2m right to bottom of crack and climb same to ledge and large block.

3. 20m (F1) Walk into corner and straddle up open book to ledge and then diagonally up left around Tower. Ascend a shallow corner to gain the main recess.

4. 25m (F2) Move up to neck. Start on the left corner of the final tower, traverse back right and climb corner and up right to a small awkward ledge from where it is possible to traverse right to virtually the front of the tower, then ascend to the top.

An attempt to find that rare route on Buruku with rock you are willing to trust gear in. On north side of monolith. So named for bats who live deep within the crack right who were surprised by Laura Staupin when attempted to climb the using her body as a wedge. Needless to say, Laura wound up coated with bat shit. Currently a short one pitch route that tops out underneath a roof at top of vertical crack systems with series of small roofs. Second pitch was work in progress, but not looking good due to chaussy garbage to the left, right and above.

About 1m to the right of LOST COMPANIONS is a thin crack with roots at the top. Climb this.

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

Start 3m to the right of the chimney with the chockstone i.e. 1 m to left of the large tree.

1. [14] 20m Climb the series of short open books leading right to the larger smoothed walled open book at the top, climb this to a large ledge.

An interesting move pulling around the roof. Starts in the recess to the left of the Republican start. Climb straight up the recess to under the roof. Pull up and sidestep to the right to bypass the roof. The original route followed the bushy recess above, but it is more worthwhile to finish as for Republic Direct on the edge of the face to the right.

Climb the left hand crack and continue straight up.

Start 30m left of SABER below series of large ledges.

1. 25m 8 Ascend ledges tending diagonally right to reach platform below arete, level with start of SABER crack. (This is the scramble used to reach DOGSTYLE) Move right around arete to reach recess and tree belay.

2. 15m 14 Follow obvious crack in corner at back of recess to top.

From obvious west-facing end, climb right down some scree and head along the base of the cliff about 5 meters.

1. Follow obvious system of cracks up and left towards the ledge with a tree. Anchor on the ledge using the tree and the horizontal cracks at eye-height.

2. begins by stepping out into space into good stance underneath a small roof. Place gear and wander up through a small sloping slab/chimney with an exciting one-move crux roof-pull, then easy ground straight up to bolted anchors at the top.

Place gear carefully. Rock quality is crap.

One day whilst wandering aimlessly around the top of the crag too lazy to walk down. I decided to scramble down and inadvertently opened a route worth writing up. 10m to the right of HAY HAY MY MY is a broken face shaded closely by a large tree. Start by a clump of routes about the size of a woman’s foot embedded in the face. Climb straight up towards a sturdy Combretum tree.

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

Climb to lower offs at top. Well protected. Small cam protects exit move to lower offs.

This climb takes the buttress directly above the meet spot.

1. [14] 30m Climb easy rock up to the overhang. Move left to the ledge. Climb the crack system just to the left of the nose (crux). Move up to the ledge above the nose. Continue easily up a series of ledges to the belay in the shade of a small tree.

An unassuming line of high quality, good for the grade.

Start 2m right of the Arête in a corner. Climb the face on the left, then move right into corner/ crack and up to a narrow ledge. Step right below a brown groove and climb this till able to exit on the left. Climb the amazing jugs tending left to below a slot. Climb this to a ledge below a short face. Climb the face to finish.

Tat on top with maillon.

An excellent layback crack climb with good protection. Start in the big corner, on top of the blocks to the right of Cain. Follow the crack in the corner to the top.

Climb the wide chimney to the right of the previous route, to the overhang. Move onto the left wall below a narrow crack. Climb this to the finish (crux).

Historic route number: 2

Climb the right hand crack...

Walk through the Dragon cleft (from the carpark side) and find a short wall. Follows the recess up the side of the wall.

Start about 9m up gully (which has a cave higher up) opposite EN PASSANT.

1. 15m 14 Start by climbing a narrow crack. Then follow open book which changes into crack again. Stance at big ledge. Walk 9m to right.

2. 11m 8 Ascend external corner. Alternatively, go right onto easier face veering into gully.

3. 9m 8 Traverse left onto edge. Move left around corner. Step up. Climb up edge or on slab in chimney to the left. Move into crack and then pull up to stance.

4. 15m 13 Left on sloping slab to edge. Then move up and left onto ledge. From here continue up an open book, or mantleshelf to left of open book. Then ascend steep narrow crack. Finish by passing up between large blocks.

Note: Pitch 1 may cause problems for shorter people. It is possible to "escape" to the right at the top of each pitch.

1. (^8 meters) starts at obvious west-southwest facing end, at the end of assent trail. Climb through series of small roofs with crappy rock quality to gain ledge. Rock is really smooth on the first 4 meters. Anchor using tree/boulder set back from the ledge, or the two bolts 1m behind the edge.

2. starts at a tree back against the rock and wanders up right through some more crappy but easy rock. Good anchor with two bolts and a chain on the small ledge.

3. straight up to the top. Two anchors with Maillon rapide are at the top to rappel.

Equipment: 2 x Sling 1m 1 x Set of Cams 1 x Hex for first pitch. 5 x 40-60cm slings to extend the cams

Around the corner to the right of YOUNG MAN’s ENTRANCE are two obvious brown corners. Climb the left hand corner to an overhang, then instead of going left to easier ground, make in interesting, cramped rail right to a position above GRAVITY DON’T DUST. Continue from here to top.

Start on left-hand piece of a broken block below the left end of an overlap which extends to Lancelot, 3m right of clump of nettle trees. Follow a vertical line of holds over the overlap, past a small pocket, to easier ground. Then go up a vague crack to the white-streaked arete on the right. Go up this to a bushy ledge and straight over the overhang on a large hold.

Climb a central line through series of rails. Rap down the gulley on left to avoid nasty plants on the walk-off back and around.

Better than is looks and puts one in some great positions.

Start: Beyond the step are jumbled blocks and beyond that a pale flattish rock with a section that has fallen out. Start beyond that just right of the twin cracks 6m up.

1. [14] 15m

   Climb diagonally left to the base of the twin cracks, climb these (strenuous) to the ledge. Stance below the recess on the left.

2. [13] 20m

   Climb the recess to the roof, then move right into the finger crack. Climb this to the roof and rail left. Continue up a weathered fin/ rib system to the top.

Not that much gear on this one. Tat on top with maillon.

Some interesting climbing which unfortunately only offers good climbing over short sections. Erroneously graded as 17 in previous guides. Start on the easy face left of the Fear of Flight ledge. Climb the face to reach a corner under a small roof. Pull through and traverse left to a rest. A tricky move left gains a small recess which is followed to the top.

At the extreme left end of the Bookhouse Cliffs, a detached block forms a wide curving crack facing north. This route climbs the chimney 6' to the right. Awkward moves at the start lead to a bulge. Climb over this to a ledge on the left, and surmount small detached block. Step right to easy finish.

Historic route number: 3

Start 20m left of an obvious chimney with round overhangs.

1. 35m (F2) Climb the corner of a crack for 15m then move diagonally right to a recess. Climb straight up the recess to easy ground. Tree belay.

2. 40m (E3) Climb straight up keeping left out of gully in easy rock.

3. 40m (E2) Continue up to a short chimney. Block belay at top.

4. 30m (F1) Traverse right to a small recess (2m high). Climb straight up for 5m then traverse right into a chimney stradling up into the back of the chimney. Belay (poor).

5. 20m (F1) Bridge and straddle up and out of the chimney and to a ledge.

6. 35m (F1) Traverse left over a fault to a wall and climb to a ledge. Traverse right along edge to a wall on the right side of the fault. Climb up to a platform and tree belay.

7. 20m (F1) Scramble into the back of a chimney and up through a hole to a ledge. Tree belay.

8. Scramble to top.

No description!

This climb is situated at the junction of Grootkloof and Kleinkloof, at the right hand side of Kleinkloof as you turn into Grootkloof a short wall is found which leads up to a steeper wall. Start the climb about 5m to the left of long thin ledge about 1.5m up leading left to a tree in a crack.

1. 30m 14 Climb the initial face using a handjam in a good sloping crack (difficult move off ground), continue up to wide grassy ledge. Move up face following break to small ledge. Move slightly right wards up an off-width crack, continue up a series of blocks to final wall. Climb up final short wall with a tree to the left.

Note: A pleasant climb ruined by ledge at third height.

Scramble up onto the big grassy ledge about thirty metres past the big crack.  Climb the crack/flakes on the right of the ledge, starting behind the tree in the corner.

• Far right of the ledge, somewhat off-width crack.

Climb the ridge 3m to the right of PURPLE SKY, starting on the left of the arete on an easy angle slab and finishing on the right hand side of the ridge.

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

On the right hand wall of the gulley. Climb up the roots on the left of the large tree, head directly up a few meters veering slightly right. Continue up to the stance.

Start: On the right side of the crag 15m is a nose, start slightly right of it. Climb up to the ledge and then climb to the right of the nose to top out.

This route shares the same start as 'Asylum Years' but continues up to the grey hanging root. Climb to the roof and move out onto the left wall (crux). Continue to the top.

Historic route number: 8

The line goes up a big open book about 100m to the left of the right-hand gully. It starts to the left of some impressive overhangs capping a huge sheer face. The climb commences up the very next open book to the right of a prominent rock buttress seen on the lower section of the climb.

1. 15m (F2) Climb open book to ledge and tree belay.

2. 20m (F1) Climb fault on the left up into chimney and chock belay.

3. 25m (E2) Climb deep left-hand chimney and traverse out right to ledge.

4. 40m (E1) Ascend recess to ledge and then walk diagonally right to face and climb same; walk right around corner to below huge open book.

5. 25m (F1) Straddle and surmount chockstone and then walk into back of recess and chimney up and out of recess via big leaning flake. To avoid overhanging recess with bush at its top, traverse out right and climb up to next ledge. Traverse back into crack and chockstone belay.

6. 25m (F2) Follow fault to large ledge below open book.

7. 20m (F2) Climb open book with some strenuous moves and mantleshelf awkwardly to ledge and stance.

8. 20m (F2) Continue up open book. Stance below final roof on ledge.

9. Walk along ledge to first corner and scramble to top.