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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | 암장 | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
미확인 년도 | |||||
19 | ★ Psalm 69
The obvious right-hand companion to 'Nativity'. Start as for Nativity but take right-hand weakness through bulge. Up bulging seam directly above to arete and up to re-join Nativity. | 36m | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★ Mr Buffalo
Taking the wall left of 'Honeycomb', it is highly likely that this is a retro-bolt of 'Adapter'. Access by 25 metre abseil to small stance in corner. Up wall past 2 bolts and small cams. | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
1965 | |||||
10 | The Leaden Echo
The major corner system.
FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Phillip Stranger. They later returned to remove their aid point!, 1965 | 78m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
1967 | |||||
16 | ★★ Nativity
Great flake line which can be escaped at half-height but why would you? Follow left weakness through bulge (as for Honeycomb) then up flake-line above until it rejoins arete. Continue to top, taking care with some hollow rock. FA: Phillip Stranger & John Moore, 1967 | 36m | Arapiles | ||
1968 | |||||
12 | Whimsical
The botanical corner left of Leaden Echo.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Murray Taylor, 1968 | 60m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
1974 | |||||
8 | Touchwood
Not without merit, despite the long scrambling start. Start about 50 metres left of Leaden Echo below black and orange buttress.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Baxter & Ed Neve, 1974 | 70m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Touchstone
Two very nice pitches.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1974 FFA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003 | 60m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
1975 | |||||
18 | Silent Majority
Good overhang approache by abseil to final belay of The Leaden Echo. Start up the last pitch of The Leaden Echo and then take crack through roof on right. FA: Glenn Tempest & Jim Grellis, 1975 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
1976 | |||||
22 | ★★ Honeycomb
Fantastic finger-crack up the righthand wall of 'The Leaden Echo'. Start: Either scramble in from the right to a stance or abseil 35 metres from the anchor above 'Mr Buffalo'. Follow lefthand weakness through bulge then move left and climb the pencil-thin crack through the overlap and beyond. FA: Tim Beaman & Chris Peisker, 1976 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
1979 | |||||
26 | Fiddler on the Roof
Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'. Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP). FA: John Allen & Tobin Sorenson, 1979 FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★ Jesus Built My Hotrod
Originally called 'Nativity' Direct Start and poorly protected. Now retro-bolted and popular. Starting just right of arete, climb pretty orange wall through small overlap. Continue steeply up wall to small stance and rap anchor. FA: Mark Moorhead & Fred From, 1979 | 15m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
1980 | |||||
21 R | ★ Jugular Freeway
The desperate, unprotected start and the huge detached block higher up make this an unattractive proposition. Start just left of 'Lone Pine Corner'. Up face, moving right to overlap Over and up break between orange and black, past flake to top. FA: Paul Aubrey & Dave Fearnley, 1980 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
20 | Christmas Carol
Bald orange arete from ledge just below and right of 'Fiddler' On The Roof. FA: Glenn Tempest & Steve Lassche, 1980 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
19 | Touch and Go
Some exciting moves up the front of Touchstone's big block but hasn't caught on. The tree at the start has fallen over so start may be a little more challenging. The first pitch could make a good start for 'Touch-Type'.
FA: Ed Neve, Hugh Foxcroft (alt) & Garry Wills, 1980 | 65m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
1992 | |||||
17 | ★ Touchstone Right Hand Finish
Seam a couple of metres right of headwall of 'Touch-Type' and just left of the finish of The Singing Wire. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1992 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
1993 | |||||
8 | ★ Lone Pine Corner
Classic, square-cut corner starting dirctly behind small pine. Finish up easy ground above corner. FA: Keith, Timothy & Fiona Lockwood, 1993 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
1994 | |||||
26 | Fiddler on the Roof
Very bouldery. Scramble down from above to reach this big triangular roof above 'Touchwood'. Thin flake out the roof (#3 RP). FA: John Allen & Tobin Sorenson, 1979 FA: Re-established after a hold snapped by Paul Hoskins., 1994 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
1998 | |||||
22 | Adapter
Apparently a rope is allowed for the descent, but not the ascent! Unfortunately it seems likely 'Mr Buffalo' is actually a retro-bolted repeat of this route. Rappel down to a small ledge 4m under the second belay of The Leaden Echo. From this climb straight up brushed slab to cave. Traverse 3m right and finish up FA: Patrick Alseby. Solo. Summer., 1998 | 27m | Arapiles | ||
2001 | |||||
16 | Kabul
Use whatever you can to roll onto ledge above roof, and then climb corner. The grunt can be avoided to the right at about 12. Start: Right of 'Lone Pine Corner' is another sweet little corner with a steep roof in the way at ground level. FA: Richard Smith & Greg Pritchard, 2001 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
2003 | |||||
15 | ★★ What the Fuck is Pluto?
This is the name given to the most common way to finish Touchstone and isn't considered a separate climb. This was the first recorded ascent of this variant and left for documentary purposes. FA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003 | 60m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Touchstone
Two very nice pitches.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Chris Dewhirst & Chris Baxter, 1974 FFA: Dan Kortschak & Jo Thomas, 2003 | 60m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ The Singing Wire
Nice climbing all the way; a fitting companion route to 'Touchstone'. Follows a direct, continuous crack system in three distinct parts. Some of the first pitch is not new, but the whole climb as described is a new conception. Start: Start 3m right of Leaden Echo.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside (alt)., 2003 | 60m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
2008 | |||||
19 | ★★ Touch-Type
A bolted direct finish to Touchstone. Follow second ptich of Touchstone but, instead of veering left, continue directly up wall past two bolts. FA: Mark Wood, Allan McCulloch, Paul Deacon & Simon Mentz, 2008 | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
2011 | |||||
23 | ★ The Swarm
Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt. FA: Neil Monteith, 2011 | 18m, 2 | Arapiles |
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