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등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 인기도 | 암장 | |
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14 | ★★ D Minor
1
10
25m
2
14
10m
The major crackline running up the middle of D Minor pinnacle. This climb has excellent protection but has a sad history of death and serious injury from people taking long falls off the top overhang onto the easy-angled middle section of the climb. Please take care to place multi-directional runners on the top overhangs so that lower runners are not pulled out by rope tension during a fall. Can be done in a single pitch taking care with rope management.
FA: Ian Speedie, Mike Stone & Bruce Hocking, 1964 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
13 | ★★ Horn Piece
The excellent thin cracks up the middle of the front of this pillar. Very good and sustained. Take lots of small wires and cams. FA: Chris Baxter & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Piccolo
1
11
18m
2
11
15m
FA: Garry Kerkin & Ian Speedie, 1965 | 33m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | ★★ D Major
1
10
25m
2
10
25m
Named after the key that has "two sharp pitches". It is possible to escape from the first belay through the narrow cleft to the left between Piccolo Pipe and D Major Pipe. Start below the major line capped by a huge chockstone on the right wall of the D Major pipe.
FA: Bruce Hocking & Mike Stone, 1964 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★★ Conifer Crack
1
9
40m
2
9
40m
Very entertaining. Just be aware that at times you have to climb on large apparently detached blocks. Start 1 metre left of where the the big dead tree was until last Friday (i.e. left-hand crack on front of buttress).
FA: Chris Davis & Ian Guild., 1964 | 80m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★★ Tannin
Fantastic climbing on gorgeous peachy rock, many climbers' favourite 19 at Araps. Chains at top (32m). Videos FA: Andrew Thomson & Dave Mudie, 1976 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
8 | ★★ Diapason
1
7
20m
2
6
25m
3
8
10m
The first climb done in the Organ Pipes. A very pleasant outing. Start 8 metres left of big dead gum tree.
FA: Steve Craddock, Bob Craddock & Rob Taylor, 1963 | 55m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Toccata
1
15
27m
2
13
23m
A stunning line on glorious water-washed rock. Protection is excellent despite how it may look, and huge camming devices are not essential. Take two ropes if doing the abseil. Start below the large smooth corner at the right end of the Organ Pipes.
FA: Peter Jackson & Bob Bull, 1965 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Dirge
1
17
35m
2
50m
Really nice climbing with an exciting blast up the finishing flake.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Chris Baxter., 1974 | 85m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Didgeridoo
Start as for Horn Piece on the Didgeridoo Pipe. Veers left from Horn Piece near the top, avoiding the bulging headwall. This climb originally started up a short crack up on the right side of the pipe but this is not much fun. Very sustained at the grade. FA: Ian Speedie, Garry Kerkin & Mike Stone., 1965 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★★ Libretto
Beautiful, sustained first pitch followed by a short hard section. Start below the well-chalked thin cracks taking the middle of the wall right of D Major.
FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger., 1968 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Aardvark
Start at the top end of the chasm between the D Minor Pinnacle and the Piccolo Pinnacle, opposite Lemmington. The thin crack over low overlap then R-facing flake to chains. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Ed Neve, 1975 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Tremulo
Really good climbing on the first 25 metres. With the abseil anchor the awful climbing above this can now be forgotten. Start at short chimney 5 metres right of Humouresque. Up chimney then on up the narrowing line finishing with some face moves just to the left. Chain anchor. FA: Phil Seccombe.., 1966 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Jens Roof
A good solution to this buttress spotted by Jen Woods, going up to and left through the overhang. The route ties together bits of four other climbs, Humouresque, Bass Clef, Bag Pipes and Low Note, into something that is much better than any of the others. Start where you would scramble up to Dirge but stay at ground level. Go straight up as per Humouresque to the base of a chimney (Bass Clef), then follow Bag Pipes up the arete between the chimney and the smooth face to the left. After Bag Pipes heads rightwards, continue straight up as the climbing gets harder towards the overhang (small wires). Go diagonally left through roof, bolt at lip, and finish as for Low Note. FA: Muki Woods & Ingvar Lidman, 2007 | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★★ The Wraith
This lovely wall was a very bold first ascent. Small wires (take extra #3 RPs) now give reasonable protection but sport climbers wouldn't want to be getting on this for their first trad 21. Start just right of Tannin. While sketching out with your modern gear, spare a thought for Ann Pauligk's 1977 ascent which was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade. FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★★ Ejaculation
Good, varied climbing. Take some large hexes for the second pitch as the cams tend to walk their way open in a couple of spots. Start at the thin crack on the right wall of the gully.
FA: Phillip Stranger & Chris Dewhirst., 1967 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
9 | ★ Keyboard
Deep crack on left side of Conifer Crack buttress, in the gully. Take some large gear. FA: Clive Parker & Chris Baxter., 1968 | 25m | Arapiles | ||
18 | ★★ Cantata
Good line up right side of D Minor Pinnacle. Start below bulging crack on arete right of D Minor.
FA: Ian Speedie, John McLean. Aid reduced by Mike Stone & Keith Lockwood in 1970. Freed : Chris Baxter, 1974 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★★ Discord Direct
Excellent climb for the grade. Absorbing from bottom to top. FA: Digby Gotts (Direct Start) FA: Richard Curtis & Phillip Armstrong (Direct Finish), 1980 | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ Crescendo
Essentially the right arete of D Minor. Start 2m R of D Minor. Up thin stepped line. Things ease off from about half-height before an exciting finish up arete. FA: Tony Dignan & Kevin Lindorff, 1978 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ C.S. Concerto
A fairly good route. Most of the first pitch is spent bridging up Holpyp which isn't bad and the top pitch is atmospheric. Start in the D Major gully.
FA: Chris Baxter, Chris O'Brien. Murray Taylor & Keith Lockwood had previously climbed pitch 2 in, 1967 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★ Cadenza
Start at the left-leading diagonal crack. Follow it into the easy chimney on Cadenza Direct and up to the sloping ledge. Traverse 5m right to a tricky exit. FA: Michael Stone & Ian Speedie, 1965 FFA: Andrew Thomson, 1975 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
11 | ★★ Piccolo Direct
| 33m | Arapiles | ||
20 | ★★★ Tannin Direct
Makes a good change. FA: Jon Muir, Tony Dignan & Geoff Little., 1985 | 20m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★ Hornpipe
Start at a crack just right of the second pitch of Conifer Crack. This looks ordinary but it makes for a good continuation from Horn Piece or the other single pitches that lead to the big ledge. FA: Wayne Maher, Peter Cunningham & Peter Watling, 1981 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Decibel
A few good moves up the front of the D Major buttress. Start at the lowest point of the buttress.
FA: Chris Baxter & Rod Young, 1976 | 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 R | ★★ Stentor
Subtle line on left side of the D Major Pipe. The third pitch, up the south-east face is mostly done as a climb in its own right.
FA: Keith Egerton, Heather Phillips & Kieran Loughran (p3 previously done by the Ottens who called it Rust Never Sleeps)., 1980 | 50m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
15 R | ★ Fiddle
The left arete of the Didgeridoo buttress (the abseil route) looks good but protection is fiddly and there's a large hollow block that would ruin your day if it came off. Start as for Didgeridoo/Horn Piece. FA: Keith Lockwood & Halvard Andersen-Dalheim., 1984 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Libretto - CS Concerto combo
This is a good combination at the grade, dispensing with the cruxy second pitch of Libretto.
| 50m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★ Wyrd
Funky climbing and route-finding. The moves up to the roof are committing. Start on the left side of the grey pedestal. FA: Mike Law & Matt Taylor, 1976 | 50m | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ Obbligato
Start as for D Major, then take the line between D Major and Libretto. FA: Unknown., 2000 | 50m | Arapiles | ||
24 | ★★ The Philosopher
Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place. FA: Chris Dewhirst & Phillip Stranger, 1968 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Chris Peisker, 1979 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★ F Sharp
This good crack system is the only surviving piece of a long-forgotten girdle traverse of the Organ Pipes. Perhaps it would have had more credibility if it had started with a tyrolean from the top of the D Minor Pinnacle. Five old carrot bolts are scattered along the beginning of the route though most are near more reliable natural protection. The good climbing is over too soon and gives way to easy moves on dubious rock. Start at a little corner below and right of The Wraith. Take care to set the belayer where they will not kick loose rock down the gully onto people below (or better yet, eliminate this risk entirely by starting up Low F instead). FA: Chris Baxter & Tim Hancock, 1970 FFA: Chris Baxter, Kevin Lindorff & Mike Stone, 1976 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★ Wyrd Direct
Straightens out Wyrd with some committing climbing. FA: Tony Marian & Hugh Foxcroft, 1978 FFA: Kim Carrigan & Louise Shepherd, 1979 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★ Cantata Variant Start
The little flake 2 metres right of the bulging crack. | 30m | Arapiles | ||
9 | Bass Clef
This is quite a good chimney and the rap anchor lets you avoid the cruddy finish. Start below the next buttress right of the Didgeridoo Pipe. Scramble up 6 metres into the gully on the left of the buttress then traverse right until below the chimney. Climb up into the chimney and follow it (originally climbed up the left edge of the chimney for a bit) past the roof on the left. Belay on left about 5 metres above the roof at chains. 30 metre abseil or continue up crud to the top. FA: Ian Speedie & Michael Stone, 1964 | 66m | Arapiles | ||
16 | ★ Woodwind
The central line up the Conifer Crack buttress is unfortunately not very sustained. Also it has a habit of dealing out broken ankles to leaders falling at the end of the crux. Start just right of Conifer Crack. FA: Kieran Loughran & Neil Barr., 1982 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★ Clear the Pipes
A direct start to the first pitch of Humouresque. Start 2m R of H. Climb to the right of the first FH to ledge. Straight up passing 2nd FH to join H at the bottom of it's crack. The first few metres of this is a lovely hand crack, and when it deteriorates into grunge you can maintain the quality climbing by drifting R up the clean thin yellow line into the last few moves of Tremulo. A worthwhile 19ish variant is to skip the hard moves at the first bolt by starting up Tremulo. FA: Anthony Schellens & Paul Deacon, 12월 2018 | 25m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
15 X | ★★ Minuet
Up unprotected face two metres L of D Minor then a short crack to join D Minor. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Allen, 1964 | 33m | Arapiles | ||
10 | G String
Start at the first belay of Conifer Crack and climb the gully between the second pitch of Conifer Crack and the Red Wall. For the connoisseur of chossy gully routes. FA: Mike Stone & Ian Speedie., 1965 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
13 | Holpyp
One of the old gullies that gets few takers. The roof is exciting but is also part of Ejaculation. FA: Peter Jackson, Ted Batty & Bob Bull., 1965 | 50m | Arapiles | ||
27 | ★★ Les Memoires d'un Ane
Thin and glassy. Start 2m R of The Philosopher. Climb past 2 bolts, join The Philosopher, then at first horizontal traverse right to flake (FH) then up to anchor. FA: Jean-Marc Troussier, 1984 | 18m, 3 | Arapiles | ||
12 | Fugue
Another gully. FA: Bernie Lyons & Steve Craddock., 1965 | 63m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★ Wingnuts in Heaven
The rightmost of the twin cracks on the big block in front of Toccata. Walk off behind. FA: Doug & Tara Wingfield., 1989 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
25 | ★ The Philosopher Direct
| 18m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Quaver
Start at a flaring chimney towards the foot of the south face. Up the chimney to a rest. Move up and L onto a mossy face and go L past a FH to the brink overlooking the gully. Then up the south wall all the way. FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966 | 30m, 1 | Arapiles | ||
22 | Wyrd Left Hand Variant
Undercling past first roof and continue up crack for 5m. FA: Chris Shepherd, Cathy Blamey & Mark Moorhead, 1982 | 35m | Arapiles | ||
17 | Yossarian
A hard few moves on the crux but a bit disappointing overall. Start on the grey buttress just right of Toccata.
FA: Peter McKeand & Gordon Talbett. | 48m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
23 | ★ Sissy Bars and Super Freaks
Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin. FA: Ant Prehn & Jon Muir, 1986 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
22 R | ★ Aardvark Original Start
The uphill arete of the pinnacle. No gear at the start. Join Aardvark to finish. FA: Peter Lindorff & Chris George, 1974 FFA: Kevin Lindorff, 1975 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
28 | Cadenza Direct
Start just R of Aardvark original start. The black groove to the ledge, then the short steep thin crack above. FA: Ian Speedie & John McLean, 1966 FA: Alec Campbell, 1966 FFA: Dave Jones & Rich Heap, 1996 | 18m | Arapiles | ||
15 | ★ Sonatine
Lovely corner on the second pitch. Scramble up the gully right of Toccata under a chockstone to below an easy wall. Could also start as for Yossarian but it doesn't add much value.
FA: Peter Watling & Ross Digby., 1979 | 48m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★★ Fiddle Diddle
Desperate for short people. Start below the gully between the Conifer Crack and Didgeridoo pipes, immediately right of Woodwind. FA: Chris Baxter & Dave Moss., 1983 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
15 | Discord
As per the Old Green Guide: "DISCORD (140'):- A sustained and technically interesting climb with excellent protection. Grade:- Hard Severe
FA: Peter Jackson & Reg Williams -Alternate leads, 1965 | 42m | Arapiles | ||
14 | Alychne
The Alychne is apparently a line of zero luminance (Talbett was an optometrist). This climb isn't that bad but gets very little traffic; the mossy appearance, fiddly protection and indirect line tend to put people off. Double ropes are very useful. Start 2 metres right of the short corner, just left of an easy, grotty crack. Up slab to a ledge at 5 metres. Up through a weakness in the bulge (crux) and on to a small stance. Traverse easily left about six metres with poor protection (many RPs) to a crack. Move up into this and then go diagonally left and finish up the left-hand crack up the steep, juggy headwall. FA: Gordon Talbett & Peter McKeand., 1968 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
17 | Humouresque
The late Dennis Kemp said that this was one of only two climbs that he had done at Arapiles that he would not consider repeating. Start just R of Bass Clef, directly below the chimney of Bass Clef.
FA: Chris Baxter & Francine Gilfedder., 1981 | 75m, 4 | Arapiles | ||
17 | ★ Hindenburg Disaster
Quite dicky on the initial face and protection on the middle section is not the best. A good climb which would improve with traffic (or a concerted cleaning effort). Originally done in two pitches but much safer to do as one. Start at the small corner as for 'Deflated' etc. Up corner, step right onto face and up seam to small stance. Slightly left and up into shallow groove (several #3 RPs useful) and finish up right arete. FA: FRancine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981 | 45m | Arapiles | ||
22 | A Concerted Effort
Beautiful rock but a bit contrived. Start as for Discord.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, Chris Baxter (alt) & Kim Carrigan., 1982 | 45m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
20 | Semi-Quaver
Fairly good climbing culminating in the left arete of D Minor. The strenuous crux past the last bolt is a little contrived though. Start at a short diagonal finger crack 3m right of the Quaver chimney.
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman. 1990s., 1994 | 30m, 2, 3 | Arapiles | ||
22 | Whiteman's Country
Hardly a recommendation. FA: Freed by Malcolm Matheson.., 1981 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
22 R | Friendless
Good climbing with hard start and finish but gets few ascents and is sinking beneath the moss. The finish is quite scary. Start 2 metres right of Tremulo at seam. FA: Keith Egerton & Kieran Loughran.., 2000 | 40m | Arapiles | ||
14 | ★ Cod Piece
Not attractive. Start as for Fiddle until the gully and then climb the wall 1 metre left of that climb avoiding bridging, stepping onto block or drifting into Didgeridoo. FA: Hoskins, Pritchard & Wilkins, 1995 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
16 | Led Zeppelin
Essentially a nice variant finish to Sonatine, sharing that climb's crux. 35m abseil descent.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Norm Booth & Ray Lassman, 23 9월 2017 | 45m | Arapiles | ||
17 | Garnett-Fleischaker Syndrome
Makes a worthwhile route out of Yossarian. Right of Toccata is a crack up the left side of a short buttress.
FA: Wendy Eden & Kate Dooley, 21 12월 2015 | 2 | Arapiles | ||
21 | ★ Pull Anchor
Climb Hornpipe for ~5m, then move left and up past a bolt (crux) and through a crack to a ledge. At the ledge move right to climb another crack, past another bolt. Ends at the same height as pitch 2 of Conifer Crack at a rap station. FA: muki woods | 30m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
17 | It Could Be Worse
How? The initial crack of Ejaculation and then straight up from the plaque. FA: Brigitte & Jon Muir.., 1984 | 50m | Arapiles | ||
10 | Tremulo-Humouresque
Not a bad excursion to the top of the Organ Pipes from the Tremulo anchor. Bear in mind that it is little-travelled so treat the rock with respect and be mindful of climbers below. It's not actually the original finish of Tremulo, which continued up the gully above the anchor, but the finish of Humouresque. The climbing can be split in a number of ways, with best ledges at 30m and 40m. Continue up left buttresses from anchors at top of pitch one of Tremulo, passing the MCC gnome high on the buttress. Walk off. | 45m | Arapiles | ||
24 | ★ Abbie Normal
Start at the left side of the Red Wall. Bridge up gully (G String) to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings. FA: Douglas Hockly & Ingvar Lidman, 2002 | 24m | Arapiles | ||
20 | Low Note
The original approach to what eventually became Jen's Roof. Bridge up the gully left of Dirge then out right to short thin crack. From crack go right into Dirge and up this to roof on right. Hand-traverse right on the lip of the roof to where there is now a FH, then up steep jugs to chains. FA: Kieran Loughran & Chris Baxter., 1984 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
19 | ★★ Low F (linkup)
A good way to do the good bit of F Sharp from the ground. Start up Dirge for 8m, move left and up Low Note to the base of the diagonal, and follow this up L into the business of F Sharp. When it gets easy head R to the chains and lower off back to the ground. It's possible to clean your own gear (with admin), but much better to have someone second it. | 35m | Arapiles | ||
11 | Deflated
Dirty. This and the next two climbs were named in honour of Chris Dewhirst's inglorious attempt at hot air ballooning at 'Arapiles'. Start: Start at the short, easy corner.
FA: Francine Gilfedder & Chris Baxter., 1981 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
13 | Hot Air Symposium
Good steep finish. Will clean up well with traffic. Originally started as for 'Deflated' but the direct start also described is much better. Start: Start at the short corner as for 'Deflated'.
FA: Chris Baxter, Francine Gilfedder. 01-08-1981. Direct Start 1 : Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth., 2008 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
10 | Gasbags
Start at the right-hand toe of the wall, a few meters right of Alychne, at a seam in nice rock.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 11월 2017 | 35m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
12 | Bag Pipes
A pointless variation on Bass Clef. Up Bass Clef to the chimney, step left and up the juggy arete just left of the chimney until able to bridge into the prominent line on the right wall of the chimney. Up this line then step right to the Tremulo bolts. FA: Keith Lockwood, Kieran Loughran & Norm Booth, 15 7월 2017 | 30m | Arapiles | ||
23 | A Concerted Effort Direct
| Arapiles | |||
15 | Didge Rhand
A toprope route keeping just right of Horn Piece offers another option for a busy day. Rig from the Horn Piece bolts - long slings or cordalette. Could be lead-climbed but it is somewhat contrived and initial slab is unprotected - no bolt please. Start 2m right of Horn Piece just left of grotty crack. Slab to bushy crack. After crack follow Rhand side of arete. Pass small triangular overhang then move R and up to anchor. FA: | 33m | Arapiles | ||
14 | Middle 8
Above 'Toccata' there is a small bowl ringed by cliffs (The Cirque of the Climbables). On the right wall there is potential for some new routes. Start in the middle of the wall on the black rock, go up then slightly right into line and to top. Start: FA: Greg Pritchard, Paul Hoskins & Chris Frost., 2000 | 10m | Arapiles | ||
18 | Dirge LHF
It is possible to do a harder finish to Dirge by heading left before you get to the chains, traversing across the blank wall to join the final flake system of F Sharp. FA: Keith Lockwood & Ed Neve, 1977 | 50m | Arapiles | ||
19 | Juvenile Speed
A short, hard avoidable crux set amid a lot of easy climbing. Start as for Keyboard.
FA: John Stone & Richard Evans.., 1979 | 75m, 2 | Arapiles | ||
23 | Quiet Time
A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap. FA: Hoskins, Wilkins & Pritchard, 1995 | 20m | Arapiles |
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