루트들 The Pharos and Surrounds에서

Lovely looking wall but start (at least) is reachy. Climb the attractive orange wall 4m to the left of Squirrel. Finish up a short handcrack near the top. Rap anchor: 20m to start of climb, 30m to ground.

Just behind Huey wall and a bit to the left is a small orange wall with and undercut start. This line take the twin seams with the small triangle roof at the start, beware of the loose looking blocks on the ledge. from the ledge head right through the steepness to the top

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

Start on the large LH jug, traverse the lip and break anti-clockwise.

Nice slab and steeper bit R of Changin' Times - toproped only.

Offwidth 5 meters right of French Crack. Part of the old descent route, usually abseiled but not always.

Great sit start half way across Finalgon and direct through underclings and small crimp to top out in same line.

1. (20) Starts under the roof between Prevarication and Hurricane Lamp Cracks and powers straight through it. Move on upward (be aware of loose blocks) to a bolt anchor (45m rappel).

2. (18) Onward through some steep moves and then at the slopey ledge, move slightly right then up the horizontals to a bolt. After moving past the crux trend left towards a bolt anchor (30m rappel to next anchor) under the roof, opposite the tennis court.

3. (14) Move far right under the roof to the big offwidth crack, struggle your way through and then climb the headwall on the left side, moving left after a ledge, then back right to another bolt anchor (25m rappel to anchor under the roof).

Sit start at the back of the roof. Straight out to jug on lip and up.

Up the line just R of Pattern Juggler and L of Milk Blood. Just toproped.

Exit the key hole and climb down past rappel station, sticking to easy terrain.

Beautiful climbing on good holds

As for "Redacted 1", but avoids stepping out right at the finish and goes straight up via a fixed hanger. It features some fantastic (and weird) climbing, such that most people seem to choose this finish rather than the original.

Joins the hardest bits of both routes and is supposedly a grade harder than each of them. At least two repeats, Chris Lindner in 2009 and Byam Keil in 2023.

Start as for Pretty in Punk, finish as for Punks in the Gym.

The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8.

Jeu do paume. Combined with 'Key hole Scramble', a useful access to or egress from the Tennis Court.

Start on the ledge below 'French Crack'.

Traverse right into the bay ('Five Fingered Mary') to an exposed step around and up the rib. Possible belay at chains ('Horus') to reduce rope drag. Scramble onto the Tennis Court.

Sit start arete and head straight up.

Classic climbing up over the bulge on incut jugs.

Crank up via corner.

Start on Coming on Chris and then at the crossroad with Nose Job follow it right for a much harder finish.

Probably about the same grade as Nose Job because on both variants you get a good rest before the hardest section, but the first section on this variant is easier.

The master of combinations and permutations digs up another classic. This one links the "easy" bits of the two original routes.

Start as for Punks in the Gym, finish as for Pretty in Punk.

This is a good pitch. It may differ a little from the original route of Halfway Handsome but it is difficult to say by how much. Start at the slabby corner 3 metres left of Oceanoid. Can rap back down with a 70m rope.

Start at the orange corner and inch your way up and right. It appears that some people who have done this route thought they were on Sheckle (grade 13)?

Not great gear or climbing.

Left to right traverse. Optional sit start adds value but doesn't change grade.

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

Originally bolted by Chris Shepherd, this link up was pointed out to Zac by Ingvar Lidman who promptly bagged the first ascent. Originally a sandbag at 29 ("more like 30 or 31," Zac) apparently a previously unused hold and an easier sequence has been found that makes it "only" 29.

Start up Masada, before veering L past a couple of bolts and some hard compression moves (crux) at half height. to the Judgement Day traverse. Finish through crux of Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death.

From block up arete committing to finish

Instead of scrambling up to the top of Pharos, climb straight up from the DBB of FC. Plenty of gear and good belay on top around a boulder

Straight up to and through obvious weakness between Soggy Muffin and Lou will be pissed.

The logical bits of Flights of Fancy and Jumping for Jugs if you can't do the dyno of FOF. Up JFJ until you can move back right, and finish up FOF. Fun steep climbing with a thin runout finish (but if you have a decent wing span it feels very contrived to avoid the holds out left)

Considered by many to be the best 23 at 'Arapiles'.

Start where the dominant flake/line reaches the ground. Follow the line, except at halfway where you need to traverse L for a few metres below the flake before going up to rejoin it. Staying with the flake is reachy 25.

Go up to and around an overhang. From ledge above, finish up 'Future Past'.

Start: Start 3 metres left of 'Future Past'.

Straight up past a bolt instead of traversing L.

A neat little climb squeezed between Bed Lag and The Creesed Palm. Originally set as a top rope problem; there is enough gear in the corner to keep things sane.

Start up Bed Lag, then move left into the corner on the arete. Small wires protect the run out to the rooflet, then move left to finish up The Creesed Palm.

Left to right traverse of trench and back wall of around the world boulder, taking the high line at the back corner.

Was a bolted sport route ....looks to be only one bolt now.

... of depravity. A spelunking expedition through the bowels of the cliff. Climb into the chimney past the beginning of Open Road and A Bridge Too Far and just keep on going. Easy chimney climbing with a dodgy flake system for gear leads to a good belay above massive chockstones. Some of the poorest rock you'll find at the Mount, not a classic. Turns out to be a variant start to Hunting For Swedish Fish (in Cheops Buttress area).

A great multipitch up the back of the Pharos at 22

1. (22) First pitch of Shivers

2. (16) Short offwidth groove on the right. Move back L to belay under third pitch of Trojan (2nd pitch of Trojan)

3. (22) Third pitch of Trojan

4. Smile.

Climb the chasm right of Spasm by following a finger crack on the left wall which leads up and right through a squeeze. Top out on the road side of Uncle Charlie's via some juggy wide chimneying. Walk off over the chockstone to the Pharos. Protectable, but a pretty tight fit with a harness.

Avoids the last hard bit of Bent. It's thought that this finish might be where Bad P2 went (before the bolt!).

Climb the majority of Bent, until the point where that route steps left across the void; instead, go up the round arete on good edges past a bolt.

Takes low line through roof that entrenched avoids via pinches.

Start R of Trojan below boulder. Up and traverse R and up. Direct start (bolted by Carrigan decades ago) remains unclimbed.

Looks bloody desperate.

Link Yesterday Direct into Use No Chooks.

Slabby start to jugs

Start up Shadows and Light and finish up More of the Same. Great climbing and more consistent than Shadows and Light.

Instead of going up to the front, follow the track around and up onto the north shoulder of the Pharos. Start at a low-angled, blunt spur just left of a vegetated gully.

1. 43m (8) Up the buttress to a small ledge. Continue on steeper rock to another small ledge. Step off right side of ledge (straight up is grade 14) then up to a ledge below a short gully.

2. 15m (4) Up the gully to a large ledge. Continue up to the next ledge, the Tennis Court.

3. 20m (8) From the top of the pedestal, climb the tricky weakness left of the red overhang. Belay on the first good ledge.

4. 23m (7) Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap then up to summit.

Uncle Charlie no doubt wonders why everyone calls his right nostril the left! Please do not climb during nesting season (August to December).

Start a few metres down R of PBS, underneath the L nostril.

Another great outing up the front of the Pharos. Start 9 metres right of Hurricane Lamp Cracks at the foot of a deep crack.

1. 28m (6) Climb the buttress on the left to a good belay ledge.

2. 22m (10) Traverse 5 metres right, stepping across a wide crack, then follow the steep, clean line on the right to another good ledge.

3. 25m (10) Step left and climb the front of the buttress to gain the deep V-line on the left. Pass the spectacular roof on the left and up to the Tennis Court.

4. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

A fine old classic whose grade seems to be gradually creeping up. Used to be grade 8 back in the day. Many variations are possible. Start at the chimney 7 metres right of Five Fingered Mary.

1. 25m (12) Follow the chimney until the line divides at 25 metres. Step right to a ledge.

2. 20m (11) Step back left then up the steep right-hand crack. Exit right onto ledge below steep bushy chimney.

3. 20m (11) Traverse 6 metres left and around nose of rock. Up onto wall, then continue up until able to traverse right to base of short slot.

4. 10m (11) The slot is desperately slick. Alternatively, climb the steep juggy wall on the right. The pitch finishes at the big ledge of the Tennis Court.

5. 43m (8) From the top of pedestal climb tricky weakness left of red overhang. Up to subsidiary summit, step across gap, then up to summit. This is as for the last 2 pitches of Spiral Staircase and may be split as for that climb.

An excellent climb tiptoeing its way up the back wall with lashing of exposure. Provides some relief from the sun until late afternoon.

Start: Start on a ledge down low on the left where an obvious ramp leads up right.

1. 30m (10) Following the ramp to its end, then left to big ledge.

2. 30m (14) Up short corner on the right, old peg (back it up), then tend right up cracks to base of chimney. Near the top there are a couple of options but the best is an unlikely step right and up the face.

3. 18m (13) Up chimney to roof, then chimney back out through roof to DBB.

Old fashioned battle. According to Simey's guide the aid was eliminated before it had even been aided...visionary!

Start beneath the R crack underneath the R chimney.

An old-fashioned line that rewards good technique and punishes thrashing.

Start below the major V-groove splitting the back of the Pharos. Described in 3 pitches but best done in 2 pitches now that there are bolted anchors at 20m and at the top.

1. 12m (20) Hard start on polished slopers (it's advisable to place a wire (#9-10) with a long stick for protection; double check it as the slot is not foolproof) leads into the V-chimney. Bridge up to a small ledge on the right.

2. 22m (18) Step left and up to cave.

3. 18m (13) As for last pitch of Lamplighter.

A brilliant first pitch and the top pitch is pretty good as well, but is much easier. Many people do just the first pitch and do the upper pitches as a finish to Dazed And Confused. Louise Shepherd's impressive 1981 or 1982 onsight was the first Aussie female ascent at this grade.

1. 36m (25) Climb the overhanging diagonal crack right of "Kingdom Come" to the top of the peapod. Step right and go up the crack to double ring-bolts at 20 metres. Continue to ledge.

2. 10m (16) Move left and follow the wide crack to the next ledge. Go a few metres L.

3. 25m (21) Thin jamming up the superb crack.

The lovely thin crack.

Not great.

Some distance down right are low-angled mossy faces with ledges in between. Scramble up to deep, right-facing chimney. This is your mission should you choose to accept it.

Layback corner then L into the "condemned cell", which takes some escaping! Great moves continue above, trending slightly L. Top anchor is several bits of rope/tat with a mallion. Walk over the top of the pinnacle, with a short down-climb to a rap anchor behind boulder.

Start: Start at the L-facing corner at the R end of the main face.

A wandering route that takes in some impressive country even if the climbing itself is not brilliant. Start as for Hurricane Lamp Cracks.

1. 35m (13) Up Hurricane Lamp Cracks, stepping into the left line at 25 metres. up the crack to a small stance. Take care with a large loose block on the right here as you prepare to start the next pitch.

2. 15m (8) Traverse left and around the arete and continue traversing and up to a terrace below enormous overhangs.

3. 36m (13) Traverse left below the roofs to another huge terrace, ending at double bolt belay. It is possible to abseil or walk off from here (and most people do).

Seeing as you've come this far, if you are in the mood for adventure, there are another two optional pitches to entertain you ...

1. 30m (-) Climb two bulges and veer right to an easy line.

2. 18m (-) Climb right around two little aretes then go up exposed latter one until a slab leads into bottomless chimney. Continue to the foot of French Crack.

A cliff-splitting weakness that is big on atmosphere but not necessarily enjoyment. The R rating is from the rock, not the gear. It has been known to calve huge blocks with the climber attached so be cautious. A 5 camalot will be appreciated. Start below the huge cleft.

1. 42m (16) Up vegetated line and belay on the big terrace.

2. 24m (18) Up the overhanging chimney with some doubtful rock.

3. 24m (18) On up the line to below large cracked roof.

4. 15m (20) No, don't walk off left, climb the roof crack. The original finish traversed out the left wall below the roof to the arete.

Don't listen to the haters. The last pitch has great gear and is 20. Bring a 6.

Start at chimney-cleft 10 metres right of "Vanoise". Up line. At small overhang step onto right arete and up steep wall. Abseil as for Agent Orange.

Essentially a variant finish to "Long Hair And Greatcoats". It originally started by moving around the right side of the huge chockstone but that is worthless.

Start as for "Long Hair And Greatcoats".

Follow Long Hair And Greatcoats to manky old peg at top of shallow black corner. Make a committing move left and then up interesting thin crack to top.

Great, clean-cut corner just a few metres off the track. Take some big gear. Bolt anchor at the top.

Steep deep wide crack. Overhangs more than most 18s! Can be bridged without much thrutching, but some large gear can be handy. Stays dry in light rain too.

Start about 20m up the gully R from CoC.

A memorable excursion up a monster chimney. Protection is spaced.

Up chimney to large chockstone at 30 metres. Go around overhang and up to ledge (2 old pitons, possible belay). Bridge widely to top.

Crack 5 metres right of 'West Coast Dogma'.

This beautiful thin crack is so good it just about rates three stars. Maybe if it was five metres longer?

Pull into the flake just left of the cherry ballart then continue up the face-crack.

The major corner-chimney bounding the left side of the black slab, mainly climbed on the slab.

A powerful, overhanging line.

Place high nut with a stick and boulder into line from either side. Up the line which veers right at rooflet. Move left for final few moves to rings.

The very technical, bouldery start was always a bit of a shock to people expecting a grade 14! The rest of the route is substantially easier.

Good, sustained jam crack up left wall of 'Heckle'. Take a few large cams or hexes.

Graded 15 by Mentz & Tempest, Arapiles Selected Climbs Guide Book.

Up crack for 7 metres, step left and go up to and over high roofline.

Start: Start at crack 20 metres left of "Vanoise".

Really interesting corner on the right side of the smooth orange face. It gets harder as it arches over further to the left to chain under roof. The climb originally continued to top of cliff but it's not worth it so no-one bothers.