루트들 Mid North Coast에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Another historical line, marked "M" in the ol' white paint style 1m right of "HM". RS/FA unknown.... couple gear options down low but nothing? for the top half and the slightly desperate slopy topout to the big ledge. optional easy 2m headwall or walk off left

Flakes and edges 2m left of "what crack"

Up to big bowl, then up to tree. All gear

Small corner used to access the Grey Area and beyond.

Climb Yellow Brick Road and then left up the face to a tree belay.

The crack 2m left of Blue Sky Mining.

Start up Chimney to ledge, then up beautiful corner crack to roof and traverse right under roof to anchors.

About 2m right of Corkys Crack. Up the wall past 2 bolts and then through the rooflet on trad gear. Anchor bolts at the lip. A little bit spicy.

8m right of Blue Sky Mining. Up onto ledge then up crack past a bolt to top.

The standout pillar with obvious hand/finger crackline and small overlap at 3m height, around to the R of FW. It is possible to walk off from the top.

Cnr crack - It was there. Natural Pro

A funky looking crack left of the big overhang (ROOM WITH A VIEW), up crack and swing round small roof to your left, then to top.

Up short corner and wall through overlap and up to anchors.

The next crack right of PLANET EARTH. A flared crack in a steep wall, hard jamming to top.

A crack with a cave near the top. The first rack right of CHICKEN HEROES. Hard start then easier climbing to top.

The right hand corner of the "Shower Recess" Short but much harder than it looks. Sustained.

Whip it ... Whip it GOOD! This is good. The first crack on the next wall. A hand to fist crack, with crux near the top.

Start in the undercut on the left pillar next to A Capsized Audience, straight up with cam placements till past midway then right into chimney and straight up.

The next corner right of AND THE COOKED. A corner with a jam crack near the top, bridging, layaways and jams, it's got it all.

2m right of PUS IN BOOTS. Up overhanging wall past crazy thread runner in roof, then cruise.

Farthest left bolted climb on cliff. 1 BR and medium wires. Natural belay

2m right of the left arete of the open book corner. Vere left above overhang. Finish left of tree. Natural Pro, tree belay.

3m left of Tink Tink.

Climb delicately over horizontal rail feature to horizontal break at 3.5m for first piece of gear. Break takes small, medium cams, then up through flakes and pockets to top out. Small cams and wires near top. Natural belay.

1m right of ‘Divorce’ upon delicate flaky holds. 1BR, crux past first bolt. Natural belay

2m crack on west face

Directly above Bealzibbs Revenge. Three empty pockets, face down at top. Basic but fun. Natural Pro, double bolt belay.

Middle of wall . Start above blackboy climb up to base of tree. Tree anchor

Thin pro at start up to small tree.

2m R of O.start right of blackboy. Small run out at the end. last break too dirty for gear. Anchor tree and boulder. Long slings.

Arete route above Seaena & Headron. Self belay route used to climb out. Only access is to abseil in. Probably won't be done by anyone due to access problem. Good though due to exposure.

climbs the right leaning orange crack

Up the short corner past wire to tree, then easily up wide corner crack to anchors of Rubber Toe. Readily TR from these anchors if you don’t have big gear.

Up the nice corner crack, step left around the roof and then tend right to the bolts at the lip.

Up the crack line, until it splits into two. Follow the right crack up to the top. Double carrot bolts back from the edge.

Use block on right for gear. When block finishes toot your foghorn and continue up wall on decent jugs. Be wary of possible detached blocks at top. Double carrot bolts back from the edge. Note: Aug 2023- some ratbags dislodged and tumbled some large sections next to this climb and some at the top of this climb. This will be assessed asap and notes updated. If your climbing there, climb the upper with caution.

The corner crack 2 metres left of Half Mast. Good gear the whole way. Likely already climbed due to the absence of loose rock. It can be climbed at high tide

Left of Othila.

The second obvious crack to the right of 'Monkey Boots'. Crack to tree then Cnr crack to top. Beware loose rocks. Natural Pro and Belay.

Scramble up face to where the crack starts in a bulge next to grass tree. Pull through bulge, then nice jams to the top.

An easy way to the top. Left of 'Broken Toe' up past a tree. Natural Pro and Belay.

Start in line with arete 2m left and below WINK WINK. Pro in horizontal crack. Up and left for pro in left cnr crack. Move up and right to first BR Follow BR line to top. 3 BR's plus natural. Nice and pleasant. Tree belay

Climb arete and wall past 2 bolts and trad gear to a tree belay.

Starts on the right hand side of a steep wall. A granitic version of Arapilies bulges, seams and overhanging silliness. 1st pitch (45m): Up and diagonally right to layback corner. Up this to slabby groove and on to top.

Climb the right hand crack to chain. Large cams. The second route climbed at Wonderland. CAUTION(!!!): The tree at the top of 'Bartman' and 'King Aurther' has become uprooted and has fallen down towards the ground obscuring the top section of both climbs and their chain.

Climb the line of least resistance below the obvious chimney (trending right), before stepping back left and finishing up the chossy chimney. Create anchor using cams (back and right, facing inland) or trees further back (good idea to sus out previously)

The off-width crack 4m right of Empty Pockets. Large cams.

Natural crack split through blank slab to double ring belay

The crack 1m right of 'Confessions of a Window Cleaner'.

The Obvious trad corner crack in centre of wall. Up to ledge and anchors above FSA

The first crack on the left side of the tier. U crack through the dirt to the top. A great climb if you are sick in the head.

Directly behind 'Fine Young Crack'. A mainline climb with lots of useless holds, hence the confusion.

About 1 m South of Green B

Approx 30 m's before the grassy bowl above the slot, head right and steep downhill to the tope-rope anchors. Use long slings or set-up rope to reduce rope drag

The anchors are above the first wall opposite the "almost-an-island" lump of angled rock. Climb up the corner of the detached slab, or directly up the face

About 50m's east of Beanie the cliff line heads nth (left). Approx 5m's further along are the anchors. Baseball is on the south side of them, and looks like a slabby corner from above

Anchors are directly above the obvious little rock pool visible from Baseball and Beret. Start on the slab face just to the left of the rock pool, moving right towards the arete only when necessary

4m right of WTPGHH. Through the large scoop, six CARROT BOLTS to chains at back of large scoop at top. The position of these chains means the rope is running over an edge for the lower off but the chains at WTPGHH can be used as an alternative. Apparently this was set up as a trainer for lead climbing.

Start on low step below large tree on set back ledge. On ledge three options to climb with the crack in the middle that takes two large cams (a #4 is handy). Easier line on the left.

Up through Rooflet to anchor.

Tough opening sequence leading to the same, fun upper section.

Good fun. Great warm up. Can take a medium cam between the 2nd and 3rd bolt to reduce the runout.

15m right of ET. Up the big pale streak at the large tree. Up line of bolts to 2 large fixed hangers.

2m right of the pale streak. 2 bolts to chains. This climb is purposely run out, so take some natural pro for the breaks if that worries you.

Left most climb on Pooh Wall. 2 bolts to rings.

Follow 3 carrots to overlap, continue up to second overlap and then on to the top where there are 2 fixed hangers.

Access traverse, do not attempt if wet as waves can make this part dangerous. Rope up at slot, clip bolt, traverse to Crows Nest for the first few climbs, or continue rising traverse to the bigger belay ledge the 'South Side Platform'.

1m right of Working the Dog. 2 bolts to trad belay.

Easy wall left of crack.

SDS at far right arete. trend slightly R, then L and stick to LH face at rooflet.

First problem done here in 1996.

Easy wall right of crack.

SDS. layback vert rail jugs.

Easy, juggy wall to the right of the roof.

Couple of variants from a start on the arete, moving right onto south face then up leaning crack ramp in middle or keep moving R to next arete and up.

Sit start obvious crack line R of DH

Up the wall left of the little roof

SDS as per Scarlet Manuka but traverse R onto ramp.

Stand start to LHF

Sit start to the L of DH. Up crack.

Short and easy

SDS, face to R of arete.

SS at arete right of LHF and head straight up

Stand start on obvious features, up to layback rail top out. Traverse or down climb to exit.

Start left of the tree

Face left of arete

Starting on a good edge underneath the rectangular grey blocks on the left side of the "Spray Wall", scramble steeply up and left over the blocks.

Left of concrete drain(?). Sit start and up the right arete.

The southern side of the boulder with the cool thread. Don't break it.

RH arete

Start for cornered treavese right following the Horizontal crack finish up

Up the easy jugs

Awesome at the grade! Up past two pockets.