루트들 Orroral Tor에서

As it says on the label

A useful access route to 'The Platform'. Start as for 'Dead Horse Gap'.

1. 43 metres - Walk inside the chimney, scramble over some boulders, then up the slab. Walk up to the end of the gully to belay.

2. 7 metres - Chimney up into the boulders, exiting through a hole in the roof.

Sit start to THC.

Imaginative naming from the Dark Ages. Start in the big chimney 50 metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap'. Climb the curving crack and chimney in the right wall.

On the next boulder is an impressive flared off-width with an overhanging start, and further left is a wide gully. Uraken is on a terrace halfway up the other side - the short, leftwards leaning crack (start marked).

On the downhill side of the outcrop, a crack system leads to a series of zig-zag diagonal roofs. Start at the crack near the big tree and follow the line.

Interesting. Start on the boulder to the left of the small gully, at a short corner leading to a curving off-width. Climb the crack to the roof, then left and up the off-width to a ledge. Finish up a short corner.

At the finish of 'Boulder Choke' is a leftwards diagonal roof crack. Awkwardly up the crack and around the corner to belay a few metres on.

The obvious right angled chimney corner on the river side. Straight up from just inside the chimney and finish up the slab.

The right-hand flake-formed crackline down and left from 'Uraken', with an interesting finish.

The thin crack six metres right of 'Wankel Rotary Engine', on the left wall of an enclosure. Finish up a ramp and right around the roof. Poorly protected.

The far left-hand crack and roof, three metres left of 'Myopia'.

The obvious corner then rap to a tree belay.

The other side of the flake. Climb the right-hand crack, then the flake. Finish up a short corner.

The chimney in the right-hand wall of the grassy gully (start marked).

Nice, if somewhat disjointed. The middle crackline (start marked): a short, leaning corner with jammed flakes. From the ledge follow the curving flake into 'Ceiling Wax'.

Extremely pleasant. Start on the terrace on the left side of the gully. Traverse from the terrace to the left-hand side of the block beneath the blank corner, at the far left of the terrace. Climb the easy corner to the ledge, then up, traversing right when it steepens near the top.

On the buttress just to the right. Up the ramp then up the thin overhanging crack to the top of the flake. Step down to join 'Side Effect'.

Inside the archway further up the gully from 'Side Effect'. Climb the flake that leans against the right wall, then up beside the capstone into the chimney. Up, then climb the flake corner and mantle onto the over-hanging block. Step across the gap and up the short wall.

About 30 metres down and left of the flake is a curving lichenous crack in a gully. Climb the crack, over the block and up the short, dirty slab. The rest of the climbs are on the Tor itself.

The thin crack in a v-groove, 10 metres left of 'Kitty Litter' (start marked).

Good climbing up a fine line with no bolts. It is now somewhat overgrown. Start about 50 metres right of 'Dead Horse Gap' where a tree lies against the face. Originally 17M1, T3 with two aids. John Smart and Ray Lassman "freed" it by bridging further up the tree. Up the shaky tree with a long and delicate reach to the crack (mega desperate for the short), then up and up the crack and straight up the slab above.

An immaculate dyke: straight, steep and sustained. The first "ascent" involved some rather dubious methods and the climb was freed a few weeks later. Start at the wide crack 10 metres right of 'The Orroral Bolt Route'. Climb the crack to the (dead!) tree, then traverse left to the dyke. Follow the left-hand dyke above the second of four bolts.

Quite neat. Start below the roof five metres right of 'Face Value'. Up through the roof and jam crack. Left at the second roof and follow the diagonal crack across the wall.

OK and alright. Start below the right wall of an open gully 100 metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap'. Climb up the flake, then the slab to the overlap. Traverse right then diagonally out onto the arete and up.

Start as for 'Face Value'. Traverse left along the horizontal break and pull up. Climb the brushed wall past two bolts.

Around left from the gully is a black wall with a number of crack lines:

Worth the walk. Named after the American model, Ginger Meadowed, who was eaten by a croc in WA. Start about five metres right of 'Myopia' at a short corner. Climb the corner and crack to a block. Finish up the brushed wall and slab past two bolts.

Around left from the gully is a black wall with a number of crack lines:

Worth the walk. Named after the American model, Ginger Meadowed, who was eaten by a croc in WA. Start about five metres right of 'Myopia' at a short corner. Climb the corner and crack to a block. Finish up the brushed wall and slab past two bolts.

The crack at the head of the gully with a hard, undercut start.

The painful finger crack two metres left of 'Chum'.

The name says it all. The wide crack two metres left of 'Meaty Bites'.

The horrible corner system five metres left of 'Awk' with a loose chockstone.

The obvious chimney five metres left of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an off-width start.

The arete 10 metres right of 'Dead Horse Gap' with an undercut and gymnastic start. Well protected climbing past six bolts leads to a ledge and bolt belay. Rap off, or climb up and across the chimney to a platform from which you can downclimb 'Boulder Choke'.

Start up the mossy gully 15 metres right of 'Godzilla Borrows the Bosch'. Use a small biner on the first bolt then up past eight more to a thin finish, with the crux being the final clip. Take some small cams for the crack up high.

Boulder out the thin start five metres right of 'Godzilla Meets the Smog Monster', then cruise up past nine bolts. A misinformed raiding party a week later intended to steal the route, noted a cairn start and removed four bolts during the second ascent; these were replaced the following day!

The clean, sharp and sustained face glittering 15 metres left of 'Chimney Climb'. Up the well protected wall past eight (new) bolts to a thought provoking finish (crux).

Varied climbing up the crack and wall with three bolts, starting immediately left of 'Wankel Rotary Engine'.

The overhanging flakey wall between 'Dead Horse Gap' and 'Geared for Romance' with six bolts.

Another good, well protected face climb. Start three metres left of 'New Brutalist'. Up the wall past six bolts, moving right at the top to join 'New Brutalist'.

A superb climb. Start four metres right of 'New Brutalist'. Crank up the wall on flakes past four bolts, then move right onto the blunt arete and up past three more bolts. There is a chain belay at the top of this climb (inches from perfect cam cracks) to save the two minute walk around the back!

Sustained climbing with a great position. Start four metres left of 'Bosch Boys'. Climb up past five bolts until the angle steepens. Move up and traverse left to the arete past two more bolts then step up on a flake to clip the eighth bolt. Downclimb two metres and move left and up the flake on 'Tautology'. Belay on 1.5 and 2 size Friends.

Good varied climbing spoilt by a wide start. Start at the evil looking offwidth four metres right of 'Love in the Time of Cholera'. Grovel upwards using face holds until the crack narrows to fist then finger jams and peters out. Climb the slab past a bolt up to the belay.

Another good sustained slab. Start two metres left of 'My Face is My Future'. Boulder the start to the first bolt, then left and up to the second bolt. Sustained climbing past two more bolts relents with good flakes between the fourth and fifth. From the fifth bolt run it out up the slab and left onto the arete. Climb up to a short diagonal crack (#3 rock) then up the short slab to the belay.

A steep little arete in a good position, although the holds are a little sharp. Start about 15 metres right of 'Inside Job' where the boulder juts out over the slab. Climb up the wall on good but sharp holds past three bolts to a massive flake formed jug (sling runner). Up easily using a dubious hollow flake to a bolt belay.

The 'Juveniles and Geriatrics' of the Tor. Pleasant climbing on the cleaned slabby wall 30 metres down and left of 'Skarasen'. After a hard start climb the groove past two bolts to the horizontal break. Move diagonally left onto the nose then rightwards past another bolt to summit jugs.

On the walk up to Orroral Tor, about 150 metres into the trees is a small boulder. The curving, hand to finger crack facing up the valley to a tree belay.

There is a small outcrop about two-thirds of the way up the hill, usually passed on its right, which features a large curving broken flake on the right.

The curving flake. Tyson's first lead.

The slab leading up to 'Rum, Buggery and the Lash' with four bolts, starting from a platform.

The off-width corner crack left of Skarsen.

Hanging crack on the terrace below EL. Thin start with poor gear; hence the name.

Thin finger crack and bulge on terrace below DM.

Short, sharp finger crack on the Uraken terrace.

A good line that despite its proximity to other climbs somehow seems to have escaped attention - possibly because it fades out in the middle of nowhere below the top. The thin crack line 8 metres left of Dancing and Desire (walk right about 130 metres from Dead Horse Gap to just right of a detached pillar). Climb the finger crack and twin cracks to stance in niche. Continue until the crack fades out then some thin crystal cranking follows past 3 bolts before joining the final crack. Easily up this to double bolt belay on a large boulder at the back of the ledge (where there is natural gear and walk off!). Gear up to .75 Camalot. (Save a #6 rock and 0.5 Camalot for the final crack after the bolts).