등급 | 루트 | 장비 스타일 | 암장 | 질 | 등반가 | 일자 | |||
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21 | ★★★ The Black Arete | 22m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 월요일 21번째 1월 2008 | ||||
Great, but unless you are really tall and can keep feet on ledge its way hard.
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23 | ★★★ Blood on the wall | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 23번째 2월 2008 | ||||
QUite hard and multiple crux moves. Superb
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21 | ★★ Maid Marion | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Technical and good gear
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20 | ★★ Cadbury Flake | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 23번째 12월 2006 | ||||
very nice and trickybin the middle
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14 | ★ Drag on | 35m | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 금요일 30번째 1월 2009 | ||||
Quite blocky
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14 | Formality | 15m | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
mucking around while Johnny was doing a bit of maintenance.
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21 | ★★ Houdini direct start | 18m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 18번째 7월 2009 | ||||
Quite steep but fun start
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21 | ★★ Pipers at the Gate of Dawn | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 23번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Stiff warm up! Exciting.
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21 | ★★ Whitewater Johnny | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Nice upper section
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21 | ★★ Whitewater Johnny | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 19번째 12월 2009 | ||||
Seemed to be missing all the right sized cams
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20 | ★★ Cherry Ripe | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 23번째 12월 2006 | ||||
climbed it to get out
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18 | ★★ Dopey Mick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 23번째 12월 2006 | ||||
dan ans John had chalked up all the holds
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23 | ★★ Every which way but Loose | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
I'll lead it after its retrobolted! Very thin moves. Pumped extracting gear and then tried the roof direct which was a mistake.
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19 | ★★ Semi retirement (pitch 2)- exit route | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 23번째 12월 2006 | ||||
nice moves, friable rock, fun way to climb out.
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19 | ★★ Semi Retirement (Semi retirement (pitch 2)- exit route) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 21번째 1월 2008 | ||||
finally got around to lead it. Always feels hard to me.
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21 | ★★ Pipers at the Gate of Dawn | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 19번째 12월 2009 | ||||
A bit of a fall on a good wire.
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21 | ★★ When the Tide Comes In | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Good gear, spicy top
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21 | ★★ Kit Kat | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 15번째 9월 2007 | ||||
Tricky in a couple of places
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24 | ★★★ Animals Route | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 23번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Little fingers make this easier I suspect!Great.
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 15번째 9월 2007 | ||||
Nice climb, shame about the morons in the speed boat
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16 | FA ★ Chiselhands | 12m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 24번째 2월 2008 | ||||
Left of descent gully, interesting moves.
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 금요일 30번째 1월 2009 | ||||
The big fella always told me to do it. Used more RPs on this than in the rest of my climbing career !
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19 | ★★ Turkish Delight | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 23번째 12월 2006 | ||||
Bomber RP #3!
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17 16 | ★ Penguins Promenade | 30m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 18번째 9월 2011 | ||||
Pleasant, good holds and a squeeze chimney, walk off right due to risk of rockfall above.
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23 | ★★★ Blood on the wall | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 18번째 9월 2011 | ||||
A repeat, the rock still suss near the crux
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25 | ★★★ Technocrat | 25m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 18번째 9월 2011 | ||||
tried this 2 years ago without success, today can do the crux! A project for summer
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24 | ★★★ Animals Route | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 일요일 18번째 9월 2011 | ||||
Opening the account for this season, niceto lead it
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18 | ★ Seam-slab route | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 18번째 9월 2011 | ||||
Gear looks adequate in most sections, bottom 4m damp from swell. Save #3 cams for anchor
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21 | ★★★ Sharks Fin | 62m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 수요일 12번째 10월 2011 | ||||
With JP, lep P2 and 3 combined. Attacked by bird, whale watching , echidnas and not at work.
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16 | ★ Penguins Promenade direct finish | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 24번째 10월 2011 | ||||
Worthwhile variant
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18 | ★ Seam-slab route | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 24번째 10월 2011 | ||||
Gear a little psychological for a short while near top, toproped before
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24 | ★★★ weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 월요일 24번째 10월 2011 | ||||
I think I did a pulley yesterday- it hurts to crimp Will be spicy on lead
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24 | ★★★ weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | 토요일 29번째 10월 2011 | |||||
Was planning to lead it but the humidity seemed excessive. Or maybe my sweaty palms?
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23 | ★★★ Fat Head | 60m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 수요일 2번째 11월 2011 | ||||
Do not try this in sun. Baked rock, hot feet, slippery hands and addled brain after marathon belay of JP who took a few whippers
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22 | FA ★ Honey Log | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 화요일 29번째 11월 2011 | ||||
FFA. Was a bit spoogy so may be better with friction. Maybe its been done, but anyway its another good protectable route to do
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23 | ★★★ Blood on the wall | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 26번째 12월 2011 | ||||
Was time to woman up and place the gear! Our gear nearly got swept away 30m above the ocean.
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23 | ★★ Every which way but Loose | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 26번째 12월 2011 | ||||
3rd time Ive seconded this, finally got it clean. Safer lead now with 2 carrots but still stout
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15 | ★ Dr Destructo | 37m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 26번째 12월 2011 | ||||
Got this one mixed up with Drag On.
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20 | ★ Robin Hood | 20m, 1 | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 월요일 26번째 12월 2011 | ||||
Abseiled over it and preclipped bolt. Could make it as hard as you like but I dont see the point. Regrade at 19/20
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25 | ★ Dolphin | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.
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24 | ★★★ Weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
2 laps today. Nothing over no 1 needed
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25 | ★ Dolphin | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.
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24 | ★★★ Weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
2 laps today. Nothing over no 1 needed
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25 | ★ Dolphin | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
Not sure its 25, though it may feel like that on lead.
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24 | ★★★ Weena two (direct) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 금요일 28번째 9월 2012 | ||||
2 laps today. Nothing over no 1 needed
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21 | ★★★ The Black Arete | 22m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 화요일 23번째 10월 2012 | ||||
Had 2nd it a few years back. Good on double ropes.
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17 | ★ V chimney | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 3번째 11월 2013 | ||||
Trying not to swelter today
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18 | ★ Crack-arete | 15m | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 일요일 3번째 11월 2013 | ||||
Unfortunately crux hold looks like it could disintegrate one day
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18 | ★ Swiss Connection | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 3번째 11월 2013 | ||||
Rock a little flaky low down, but fun enough
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20 | ★★ Avenger | 45m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 목요일 30번째 10월 2014 | ||||
led it and fell off at crux, fortunately a good sling and an RP by that stage. clean on second . A block at the top has vanished, but its still quite fine to protect. THe bolt on GBH can be clipped. The 30 year anniversary ascent of the FA apparently for Dave.
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23 | ★★ Gunbarrel Highway | 45m, 1 | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 목요일 30번째 10월 2014 | ||||
would feel fairly bold on lead. a few crumbly footers.
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21 | ★★★ Sharks Fin | 62m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 금요일 31번째 10월 2014 | ||||
Led pitch one today. seemed shorter and a little easier than last time, probably a sideeffect of spending the last 10 days in Yosemite
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23 | ★★★ Fat Head | 60m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 금요일 31번째 10월 2014 | ||||
so much better in the shade, and traversing at the correct level. one of the best single pitch routes i have done all year. just have to lead it!
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23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 3번째 1월 2015 | ||||
Harder than fathead and the top pitch of Zorro. The top corner is choss, so swung over to finish on Fathead. Some crazy moves
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23 |
★★★ Zorro
1
2
3
23
| 95m, 26 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 3번째 1월 2015 | ||||
Beautiful moves after a tricky start. Top pitch only, down as 24 which it may feel on lead
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19 | ★★ Houdini | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 9번째 3월 2015 | ||||
After work session. Nice afternoon.
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18 | ★★ Dopey Mick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 9번째 3월 2015 | ||||
22 | ★ Honey Log | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 9번째 3월 2015 | ||||
25 | ★ Deliverance | 20m, 6 | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 9번째 3월 2015 | ||||
Sharp and technical. Seems a bit hard for 25
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19 | Houdini | 20m | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 월요일 9번째 3월 2015 | ||||
Up to higher ledge and bolts. A v chimney.
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23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 14번째 6월 2015 | ||||
Another couple of shots. Actually did all the moves including nails crux. Very reachy in parts and some amazing balancy mantles. Superb
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23 | ★★ Every which way but Loose | 25m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 22번째 11월 2015 | ||||
Finally led it clean. Hold snapped on the redpoint, fortunately after I had clipped first bolt. Put a long sling on second bolt for second shot to make it sane. Somewhat runout otherwise.
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21 | ★★ Maid Marion | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 22번째 11월 2015 | ||||
Quick eotd. I had forgotten how good this route is.
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23 | ★★ Deception 3 | 9m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 23번째 11월 2015 | ||||
Mark didn't know if this had been done, but Johnny say of course!
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19 | Deception 1 | 8m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 23번째 11월 2015 | ||||
Placing the gear adds the spice. Pretty interesting climbing
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19 | Deception 2 | 7m | Tomaree Head | 평균 | 월요일 23번째 11월 2015 | ||||
Yep, mucked up hand sequence and couldn't reverse. A gray C3 is useful.
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23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 일요일 14번째 2월 2016 | ||||
Ongoing love hate relationship. So many places to plummet. Anther 2 days finessing this thing before I finally did it on top rope. Even the ffa is as.sitting it's at least 24 now.
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23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 목요일 10번째 3월 2016 | ||||
Day 4. Tried to lead. Snapped my secret short person crux hold. Found another way. Then Dave snapped that. In between fell off when another flake snapped an ruined my balance after I thought I was going to tick the route finally! Gah.
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23 | ★★ Guardian Angel | 45m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 완전 구식 | 일요일 13번째 3월 2016 | ||||
Day 5, couple of goes re-engineering crux.after it rained holds last visit. extreme bridging and a double undercling works. On the plus side a new hold emerged near the reachy flake making this less desperate for shorties. As next visit at least a month away: right foot horn, left foot cross to right wall, undercling left hand, left foot on tiny edge, right foot bridge, right hand to match undercling, left hand flake, right foot through to left wall edge to lay off and up to incut.
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22 | ★ Flight Sensation | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 31번째 10월 2016 | ||||
Really interesting climb. I liked it so much I did another lap. Gear looks good, must lead.
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25 | ★★★ Technocrat | 25m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 화요일 제 1 11월 2016 | ||||
Not been on this since 2011, forgotten everything. Still a move off sorting crux.
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19 | Polyfilla | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 6번째 11월 2016 | ||||
Have done this before but never logged, Rpt today. Good moves but not the best rock
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21 | ★★ When the Tide Comes In | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 6번째 11월 2016 | ||||
Rpt
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21 | ★★ Whitewater Johnny | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 6번째 11월 2016 | ||||
Rpt.The top felt exciting, after turning lip as I had used all the tcus already
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25 | ★★★ Technocrat | 25m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 6번째 11월 2016 | ||||
Bit less of a ghost, managed to stick crux and then do exit moves, which are tricky if you can't reach. Fortunately having watched talented short people boulder, the old toe hook over the head move was pulled out and worked! Now to try and do it all in one go.
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25 | ★★★ Technocrat | 25m, 2 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 10번째 12월 2016 | ||||
Did it with second bolt clipped, and suddenly found I was through the crux, with only a light rack and no idea of the second half of the route. Took me a while to fight the anchor anxiety.
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24 | ★★ Storm Front | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 24번째 12월 2016 | ||||
Seemed impossible at first, including for the FA, then after about 15 goes I finally got the roof move sorted. The bolt now has a bolt bracket back on. Good climb to do as the front approached.
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23 | ★★ moby dick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 9번째 9월 2017 | ||||
Did this after leading Fin crack. Good stemming problem, gear looks limited in hard section
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21 | ★★★ Fin Crack | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 9번째 9월 2017 | ||||
Rpt, now I know why I haven't been on it for ages: gear grey TCU x2, # 1 RP x 5, #2 RPx2, other small wires x 2, medium wire x1, green TCU x 1, and a bomber 0.75 C4. Intense. First time since the flake was trundled which changes the finish
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19 | ★★ Semi Retirement (Semi retirement (pitch 2)- exit route) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 9번째 9월 2017 | ||||
Rpt, the rocks a bit average on this one.
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21 | ★★ Houdini direct start | 18m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 9번째 9월 2017 | ||||
A bit trickier since large block washed away a year ago
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18 | ★★ Dopey Mick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 9번째 9월 2017 | ||||
Rpt, a bit pumpier now the block has gone that used to be a good rest. We didn't hang out too long, the swell was threatening the belayer
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19 | Polyfilla | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 6번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Rpt on Marks gear
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21 | ★★ Maid Marion | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 6번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Rpt on marks gear
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22 | ★ Flight Sensation | 15m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 6번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Decided to lead this. Couldn't remember much about it except that getting into the long sentry box is hard, as it proved to be. Went slightly right after exiting chimney to finish on pockets.
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21 | ★★ When the Tide Comes In | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 토요일 6번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Rpt. The wire below the rook has a habit of lifting out
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21 | ★★ Sweaty Palms | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 토요일 6번째 1월 2018 | ||||
The exit back to the halfway ledge today. Pretty average rock and gear options for this, but great moves. Will probably leave as a top rope.
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19 | ★★ Semi Retirement (Semi retirement (pitch 2)- exit route) | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 월요일 22번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Rpt
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21 | ★★★ The Black Arete | 22m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 월요일 22번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Rpt, did a variant going quite low to arete, and the n avoiding hand crack at top. The pillar between this and semi retirement is definitely suss.
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25 | ★★ Crystal Ships | 20m, 4 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 월요일 22번째 1월 2018 | ||||
Has 4 bolts, need to work on start which I wasn't going to do with belayer 25 m up due to ledge fall potential.
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24 | ★★ Every which way but Can LH finish | 20m, 1 | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 일요일 18번째 2월 2018 | ||||
On the last go of the day after changing sequence each time. Nice and technical and trickier than appearances
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26 | ★★★ Aggro | 30m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 3번째 11월 2018 | ||||
Summer project I think. The bit between the 2 pockets is only 2 m long but may take a while, plus got to place gear....the rest of it is 21-24 so still interesting, 4 shots to top over last 2 days
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26 | ★★★ Aggro | 30m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 제 1 12월 2018 | ||||
A bit surprised, now have to do it sticking in the gear. Nice conditions today.
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26 | ★★★ Aggro | 30m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 월요일 24번째 12월 2018 | ||||
Rpt ascents working out how to get the gear in when feeling maxed out. Beautiful Christmas Eve weather
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26 | ★★★ Aggro | 30m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 29번째 12월 2018 | ||||
Finally stopped falling off after the crux. Good conditions seeing it was 40 degrees at home. Notes to self- down climb after first 5 bits of gear, triple set C3s,, tape right hand, flag right foot at crux, right hand thumbs down at top of lower crack or won’t reach the next one. Team success!
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21 | ★★★ Sharks Fin | 62m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 19번째 1월 2019 | ||||
Rpt, had to get out a stuck nut. Haven’t been on this for 4 years, dave probably hadn’t for a couple of decades, so he got to lead it all. Very humid day.
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26 | ★★★ Zorro | 95m, 26 | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 토요일 26번째 1월 2019 | ||||
Tried the 26 and 24 pitches today. Seems possible but very technical. Right index finger hit by broken rock. Now I have 2 painful index fingers.
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23 | ★★ moby dick | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★ 아주좋음 | 화요일 12번째 3월 2019 | ||||
Lovely technical stemming. I still think it looks dodgy to red point
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21 | ★★★ fin crack | 20m | Tomaree Head | ★★★ 클래식 | 화요일 12번째 3월 2019 | ||||
A nice relaxing afternoon, without the need to place rps.
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24 | ★★ Fatal attraction | 25m, 3 | Tomaree Head | ★ 좋음 | 일요일 9번째 6월 2019 | ||||
Rock a bit ordinary. May feel better in drier conditions on slab
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