루트들 n호주에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Location TBC... Stand start on the obvious jug loaf layaway. Long moves between good edges to gain the big horizontal holds at 4m. Part 2 will continue to the top at V8/9, while a Vheavy sit start waits for they who can campus 1-6

Vertical seam into roof.

An outstanding, sustained and varied free climb that challenges the full gamut of granite styles. This is a distinctly more approachable prospect than the other free routes on this end of the wall consisting of generally easier cruxes, fewer run-outs and less small gear. The route follows a logical line of features incorporating sections of the aid routes Knocking on Heavens Door, She, Clouded Queen, Ozymandias and Strange Ritual. Most pitches include a mix of natural gear and bolts. Take a standard rack up to a 3 Camalot including some micro cams, small and medium wires.

1. 27, 35m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door and Free Reign in right facing corner. Continue up this for roughly 8m then move slightly left and over bulge. Continue up the right facing features above the initial corner until it becomes possible to climb rightward across a sequence of underclings toward more sustained climbing and a mix of bolts and natural gear placements.

2. 27, 50m. Follow the obvious right facing sickle-shaped tips layback until it peters out and leaves you in apparent blankness. Solve the puzzle then continue for 30+ meters up the shallow open scoop with many block holds and carrot bolts.

3. 27, 40m. As for pitch 5 of Free Reign up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up slab and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots.

4. 22, 35m. As for pitch 6 of Ozymandias Original. Follow obvious crack to the left and up through steepness to the sloping ledge and triple bolt belay.

5. 27, 50m. Follow the traverse pitch of Ozymandias Original pitch 7 for approximately 5 meters until it becomes possible to climb straight up a series of positive cracks toward the large, steep right facing corner above. Continue up corner until it becomes a roof and it is possible to clip a fixed hanger straight out the roof. Climb past this and over the headwall for the last of the routes' difficult climbing. Enjoy the wild position and hard climbing beneath your feet! Once a large ledge is reached either belay from here to break pitch into two or pick your way through the wide climbing to the top of the cliff.

Climbs the left of two cracks splitting the central prow. Approach via 'Against The Tide' continuing rightwards down the sloping terrace to a two bolt belay. Bring a full set of wires, a double set of cams to 0.75 Camalot, and long runners. Double ropes recommended (two ropes required for rap from chains).

A traverse starting at Stugang and then linking into Clutch-Boing Link.

At the lip of IP, head right and run it out to the chains of Eddie, finishing up that routes extension. Surprisingly good, rope drag isnt too bad considering..

Hard start (dyno from cairn) into more dynamic climbing. 25M1 if clipping and pulling to first bolt.

A rough/crystalline, flaring, diagonal crack... hmmm! Starts at the double rap ring at the end of p1 of Manhattan Project.

1. Up face (FH) to the right-leaning flared crack. Up this and thin crack (many cams and wires) to where it peters out. Up bulge (FH) to a small ledge. Up short wall (BR) to gain another ledge. Follow this for approximately 20m until an exit is possible.

Bouldery prow following seam, pockets and interesting slots. Same start as afterlife.

As for blind man with a pistol until headwall. Follow crazy dihedral left to a classic power endurance crux.

Starts a few meters right of Poison Bait. Great athletic roof climbing.

Abseil down to double bolt belay. Pre or stick clip 1st bolt. Follow the arete the whole way up

Rarely repeated. A long route with a sting in the tail. Climb past BR and broken rock into scoop, then very bouldery move left across cave. At sixth ring bolt go right and direct up face past limestone like large pocket and micro edges through bulge. 9 RBs and chain lower off.

Great climbing on the wall just right of 'Olympus Mons'.

1. 25m (27) Up Boyzone corner for 10m then step left (BR). Through roof to flake (BR) then up to break. Move right and up to roof (BR), then launch out big roof to BR on lip. Continue up to belay on BRs on B P2.

2. 20m (27) Over rooves and up (BRs and a large cam) to belay on ledge as for B P3.

3. 30m As for B P4.

Start as for Fidget Gene, then move left onto face and follow line of BR.

Obvious leaning crack line. One of the best traditional routes around. Take cams up to #3 C4.

Wow! Start up the desperate corner R of EJ with crappy gear and a rusty piton playing head games with you as you stare it in the eye! If you fall in the first 15m, it is more than likely that you will deck out! Climb this to a stance. Up the desperately thin corner on imaginary holds, using scary and spacious protection to the top. Some good wires about half way up are the only real protection you get on the whole route. Quite a serious lead although it really does feature some excellent movement. Kim rapped this then did it first shot. Rather impressive.

Edit: A large section of rock at the bottom of the climb fell off the route in 2019.

Climb 'Shivers' until the 'Judgement Day' traverse line, then head straight up through the roof (bolt) and follow the seam, joining Shivers' 2nd pitch near the top.

Start: Start as for 'Shivers'.

20m right of FA at brown slime. Blast straight up the wall (BRs and small to mid size cams) to belay as for B P2. Rap off, or finish up B.

The overlap right of Hungry Eyes. Awesome moves on great rock. Sustained through the top.

2 Bolt Belay. Bring 1x #0.4 (x2 if linking P1 and P2), #0.75, #1, #4.

1. 30m (27) - 7 Bolts and a #0.4 Cam (to protect the final move to the anchor).

2. 20m (24) - 2 Bolts, #4, #0.4, Bolt, #0.75 and #1 Cam to anchor.

3. 25m (21) - 5 Bolts to anchor.

Most people tend to onsight this route, due to the fact that a fall could be very nasty! Bridge up the completely blank corner, pretending that there are actually holds. Very desperate climbing past the two pitons. Not a climb for the faint hearted.

start 7m right of Cadence. Up to the carrot, then trend right to join Stigmatised.

The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.

1. 20m (21) A worthwhile pitch in its own right, although all the mantles are somewhat above gear. Up the slabby flake then 4m R along breaks. 3 slithery mantles lead to rap anchor on ledge (18m). Cams, med. wires.

2. 13m (27) Follow fused flake up L with increasing difficulty, then a draining fingery traverse back R to 3 bolt anchor (8m to 1st belay, 25m to base).

3. 20m (24) Brilliant. Tough moves out slopey 3m roof flake, past the only remaining original bolt - consider a small cam just below to back it up. Now blast up the very steep and very exposed water groove past 4 bolts and a spicy final runout. A wire can reportedly be finagled in on the top runout, but with all that air below your remaining energy is probably better spent in braving the final moves without it! DRB rap anchor (48m to ground).

2 bolt boulder start to RS. Classic!!

Death lead. Climb the blank corner to the R of HA, with what could best be described as "mind protection" for gear. Two manky pitons and RPs that look pretty are all you get. What is even more impressive is that Kevin put this up ground up - he tried it one day, it started raining so he downclimbed, came back the next day and did it. One of the most impressive first ascents in Australian climbing history.

Starts as for Delirium Tremens but at the roof breaks right and traverse a couple of metres before launching straight up the face. Reportedly a tad runout in places, and rarely repeated.

Steve's contribution to trad climbing. A bit cruxy since a hold broke, but still well worthwhile. The crux is bolt protected. Take 2 or 3 #0.5 camalots, plus singles up to #3.

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

This imposing line is on the wish list for many budding Frog-climbing gods! The stunning shallow corner swallows up RPs and micro cams. The upper section has two extremely thin and technical cruxes. Rap off the bolts.

Start: Start at crack directly below the lone bolt in the middle of the south face (facing 'Heckle' and Jeckle) and head straight up past big dyno.

The original route by Steve Monks traversed right at first break, up arete then back left somewhere at 25.

An outstanding, naturally protected line up the obvious weakness through right side of the cave. The first half was originally climbed by Greg Child (and co) at grade 23 to the small stance just before the angle begins to steepen dramatically. From this point things get pumpy and you will need to draw on your bouldering nous. After the business is over be prepared for a longer-than-expected head wall above.

THE line of the cave. Power Endurance.

"This is the way the world ends, not with a bang but a whimper" (T. S. Elliot's The Hollow Men). Fantastic hard climbing. Big moves or big whippers! Stick clip the high first bolt and climb the awesome seam past another 7 or so fixed hangers. Bring trad for between the first two bolts (#0.4-#0.75 cams, small wires). Continue past the lower offs and top the cliff for full value - hopefully the anchor will be moved up next rebolt.

Originally 26 in the best of Law sandbagging tradition. Quite good, and not particularly slimy. Reachy though, looks way harder below about 6' reach.

Start R of 'Failing New Romantic'. 2 bolts up the seam, step L, then finish past a couple of fixed wires.

Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.

1. 18m (21) Not a great pitch. Expanding flake (FH), then traverse left across break (FH) and up slab to chain belay (15m rap). A few medium-large cams are useful.

2. 30m (28) Straight up (2 FHs) to stance on the left, then rightwards out bulge with sustained endurance climbing up to big roof. Over 2 roofs into water runnel above (2 FHs), then head off left (but not into World Party) and up to anchors. 60m rope is enough to lower off to 1st belay, if belayer is on the 1st belay.

An exceptional free route that follows a logical line up several different aid lines. This route crosses some amazing terrain from wicked slabs to gymnastic steep slapping and some typical granite corner climbing. All pitches have a mix of bolts and natural gear with the occasional piton or aid mank here and there. Take a standard rack up to 3 Camalot and some small wires.

1. 22, 30m. Start as for Knockin’ on Heavens Door at small right facing corner 30 meters below the second abseil down ‘Comet ramp’. Beautiful laybacking for 8 meters then follow feature rightward under yellow roof. Belay at 4BB. (small-mid wires, small to large cams).

2. 28, 30m. Powerful dynamic climbing past 3 fixed hangers out to and up hanging arête, then step right into next crack system at height of roof, follow this for about 10m until a finger crack leads left to belay stance 1BB and #3 Camalot. (small – mid cams).

3. 23, 25m. Step left into twin seams following a few mashies, continue up for about 6 meters until it becomes possible to reach left to good holds leading directly leftward 5 meters to big left facing flakes. Continue up flakes to several fixed hangers and thinner moves. Belay at stance to the right with small – mid cams. (mid – large cams and some fixed bits and bobs).

4. 28, 30m. Follow easy crack for about 5 meters then step left into seam with fixed RP and small wire placement, continue straight up to two consecutive left leading flakes (fixed hanger). Delicate moves left into crack, up a few meters then left again to fixed hanger. Left again to crack then up to a 2BB at small stance. (small wires and small cams)

5. 27, 40m. Head right and up interesting weakness’s past aid belay and fixed hanger then continue up and slightly left over small overlap with powerful, thin climbing past two more fixed hangers. Finally, step right into crack and chunky features that lead to large ledge system on Ozymandias original to belay with two #2 Camalots. (Small – mid cams).

6. 28, 30m. ‘Piton Roof ‘ Insecure climbing straight up small yellow right facing corner to roof past small wires and cams. Two novel pitons protect thin moves rightward under roof to powerful crack and layback over the lip. Continue 7m to 4BB. (micro wires and small - mid cams)

7. 22, 30m. As for Rats in Paradise. Follow crack as it transition to offwidth then back to flake. Reach left as flake ends to belay on small ledge at 2BB. (mid – large cams)

8. 20, 40m. Elegant offwidthing up and left past 2 fixed hangers then straight up more offwidth to topout at Wilkinsons Lookout.

Pure slab in the middle of Alchemy Wall. 6 U-bolts + 1 or 2 small cams climb to first bolt. Crux begins at fourth bolt with flake. Thin moves up to flaring crack (can use wires to protect) and straight up to ledge. Place #3 Camelot in break, climb the final bulge to the top. Needs grade confirmation.

Burning bright.

Start beneath the overhanging corner 20m R of 'The Rubicon'. A burly start leads into the corner which takes you to the roof, which has three manky pitons (and bomber gear). From here there is a tough move at the lip and 2 FHs before the lower off.

The gobsmaking left leaning line in the centre of the cave finishing near the end of 'Tazer'. One FH at start and one right near the finish. The rest is old school trad! Malcolm flashed it for the second ascent.

Desperate.

Start as for "Spellbinder".

Go up Spellbinder for 8 metres to ledge. Move right, up short, left-facing corner and over bulge to bolt (#4RP placement en-route). Move right again then up to easier climbing. rap as for Spellbinder

Climb Crayfish Crack to reach first bolt. Crank into line, follow bolts rightwards via. some very creative movement to finish at Beamans anchors.

The exiting moves now succumb to an extreme reach as some holds have disappeared since the first ascent.

The obvious link of Escape start into the last half of Break and Enter. Start as for Escape (original bridging start), then break right and power up through the final boulder problem of B&E. Short, but consistently powerful climbing to the very last move. The route grade is open for debate given it’s basically a V7/8.

The big time route of the quarry. First cleaned by Hill until he got bored with it and gave it to Ralph who finished the job. the climb was done over many weekends as the bumbling Ralph pushed the standards to the min. Apart from all this shit the climb is absolutely worthless and has the 'very' chopped look about it. if you want to fuck around for days trying to get up this mother then you're quite welcome to it, some of the locks are pretty sharp and there aren't many footholds on the whole climb so forget about good boots.

(1) The groove to the right of C. Climb the shallow groove on finger locks. As you would expect the runners are pretty tricky to get in and this will probably consume most of your time and flesh.

sling anchor is death

The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).

1. 20m (28) This pitch is almost a sport route as it contains a few fixed wires to supplement the bolts, but most people also put in a few medium cams. It's a very popular pitch due to its squishy grade, and is many climbers' first 28. Step right past RB and up reachy wall past wires to big break. Swing over rooflet (wire) then traverse R across scoop. Pump up the subtle R arete of the scoop (2 RBs + wire) then a tricky conclusion up L to break. Clip-and-go lower-off (16m to ledge, 30m to ground).

2. 20m (26) Traverse 5m L from the lower off then up the red scoop (bolt, med cams) into cave above (optional 2no of carrot bolt plates on spacious ledge: pitch 1 originally went to here). Out right side of cave to top and lower off (80m rope recommended). Rebolted 2017. This pitch is most easily approached via Mr V.

Start as for Long Knife, clipping the first bolt on the arete out right, and continuing up the offwidth/chimney until at the same height as the 2nd bolt.

Traverse boldly right onto the arete to gain the 2nd bolt, then traverse boldly further right to gain the line of glue-in rings heading directly up the aesthetic arete.

Large Wires and large cams #3, #4/#5 to protect the initial crack. Consider climbing on 2-ropes and dropping the first once you gain the 2nd bolt on the arete to avoid hideous drag from the trad-section.

The thin suspect crack 1m left of Gone in Sixty Seconds straight up to join into the crux of Portrait. Take up to size 1 Camalot and 7 draws. Have a solid belayer you trust from crack to first bolt is commiting.

This steep and powerful roof looks like fantastic climbing, but unfortunately the bolts have not aged well and it is mostly only 4-5m off the ground requiring care to avoid groundfalls.

Start: Start 25m R of 'Gilgamesh' at the R end of the low rooves.

The line just left of Killer Canary. Up corner crack via. stems and laybacks to a flared crack on the face. Awesome but runout climbing past fiddly gear leads to a short flared crack before joining Killer Canary after it's traverse.

Small offset Aliens pretty much essential to protect adequately.

You can start from the grassy ledge at wide 16ish but it's not that great, a small ledge about 12m up is comfy and avoids it.

Supposed to be desperate. Start as for 'Adios Amigos' then move right and up past 2 BR

A boulder problem traverse link up into Japetus Direct Finish. Start (sit) left of base of Olympus - dyno rightwards and climb across cave to juggy traverse that leads underneath Sardine etc to base of Japetus. Continue up that route. Best done with a top-rope clipped in prior to embarking on the route itself. Basically a V5/6 problem into an existing 23.

A link of Chaos Roof and Where Iron Crosses Grow. Start as for Chaos Roof. Up past the first few bolts to the roof and instead of pulling the roof move, step L and up into the roof of WICG.

Very reachy. Climb the wall left of White Heat.

The name aptly describes the style of climbing at the quarry. Whilst cleaning this route Ferret was heard to mutter 'I don't like frigging climbs, I just do it out of habit.' This baby rears it's ugly bum with the major problem of not having any footholds where it counts, i.e. on the rock. Apart from that little drawback it's quite a good climb up a very thin finger crack, creeps with fat digits: better pound them down with a hammer or blow them off with explosives if they want to get up this unit.

(1) The next crack in the wall to the right of SS.

Follow the overhung seam up the middle of the wall with a piton, from the diagonal follow up final crack then finish as for 'Astral Plane'.

Start: On middle of right hand wall looking in.

Middle crack - turn the lip then to top, mantle to finish.

Clip the first two bolts then up the steep Trad crack (small/medium wires and cams).

Continue up the fantastic face above. Classic climbing all the way and one of the best routes here.

The overhanging wall

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

Start on small extruding block passed when climbing DBMP. Up jugs passing wires to large horn and a FH. Out past 2nd FH then over lip to final bolt (use 80cm sling). Up slab to summit. Do not place gear on slab and do not second this climb due to knife blade edge on lip.

Excellent sustained face that adds a hard start to 'Yesterday Direct'.

Start just right of Yesterday and climb past a fixed hanger to join 'Yesterday Direct', which continues up via two ringbolts to join 'Yesterday'.

The desperately thin finger crack to the right. Big moves between good locks with tiny feet.

Razors.

The original Ewbank Aid Route, now freed at 25, 26, 27, 17 by Doug McConnell.

Previously a long standing open project that was speculated for years prior to its first ascent. Literally a 5m (hard) boulder problem.

Start: Start between KK and AF.

Open open open! Someone come a tick this classic crack! Bring your A game. It's propa hard.

The double bolts at the bottom of the line should be chopped as the line goes on gear the whole way.

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

The thin crack with face holds left of the overhanging offwidth. Nice moves on good holds (about 22) lead to a ridiculously thin boulder problem finish and DBB.

Stick-clip bolt, climb tricky start and straight up past several more FHs. Start about 12 metres right of Yesterday

A good option if you think Father O eases off too much after its crux. Start as for Father O, until just past it's 3rd bolt. Now head up the R side of the scoop, through bulge past 2 FHs and 2 RBs (thin crux direct past 2nd RB - deduct a grade (and maybe some self respect) if you deviate L around this bolt into Father O) to break. Trend R from break to top. Take cams & wires. If that's not enough harder climbing for you then throw in the worthwhile direct start, from the middle of the belay ledge and heading up L (good tiny trad) to Father O's first bolt.

1. 18m (17)

2. 30m (28)

3. 20m (25)

4. 20m (26)

5. 20m (25)

6. 20m (25)

Start between 'Orestes' & 'Plimsoll Line'.

Geoff was pointed at this to keep him away from STD Wall.

Thin technical seam up the overhung wall at the left end of the crag. Might be more popular if the crappy fixed wire was replaced with a bolt.