등정들 Lucas Heights에서 일반 정보를 가진

I climbed this years ago as a teenager when it was still rusty carrots. We liked it so much that we rebolted it with the RBs you'll now see on it. Apologies for adding the bolt and not recessing, we didn't really know what we were doing back then... It was quite an effort carrying in a 3.5kVA generator to run the hammer drill we'd knicked from Dad's tool boxes! The bolts are bomber…150mm high tensile 316. We would always top out for the full tick. 22 might be a bit keen IMO, we always thought 21

Cool start, big rest, boulder move, jug haul. Could this be extended? Good call on the permanent lower offs.

First 24. two boulder problems to jugs.

I really dig this type of climbing, pity the breaks are like sand boxes. I continued above the anchors to the next bolt, and eyed the extension up the slab. Too much lichen, and some suss anchors, so I backed off for today. Might be good.

If you like bird shit, you'll love this climb.

1st shot worked out all the moves, 2nd shot couldn't pull through the second crux. Linking up the two halves should happen on the next visit.

Great moves with a beautiful traverse, followed by a funky move to the high traverse back. I had to work the roof transition (2nd shot) to find a sequence that worked with my style. Should go next visit!

It's definitely the strangest climb here. Tough moves until the roof

A super route, and I wish it was longer. Hot tip, just keep punching after the sloper traverse. Just because other people are bringing in the comparison, Lean Beef is definitely harder, but not as technical.

Tall man route. Neil was instructing me how to hand jam after tossing up some protection. My thumb muscle is a bit too beefy to get bomber jams that allow you to pull perpendicular to the break, and the reach upwards is just too far for my wingspan. It will be desperate if attempting again.

Best warm up option here.

Got my feet wrong on first attempt.

Don't fall above the final bolt, flakes below suck! Otherwise it's a pretty sweet climb, committing final move to the anchors.

Awesome warm up, great exposed finish!

3rd go. Knee bar for the final clip rules.

Classic hand dog top rope 3 hour ascent

I want a top rope hand dog retreat tick option. There is a name for the winners in this world, I wanna name when I looooossse

Missed the all important foot on the onsight attempt.

Couldn't work out the boulder problem at the second bolt

Just one go. Steepness is easy enough. Spooge on the slopers made the top hard. Contrived.

2nd shot, nice climbing but a few very brittle holds

Much harder than it looks. Very short and interesting

Really nice adventure, every ledge feels like a new chapter with a different boulder to solve.

Funky traverse and bump to corner. The top is deceiving

Really enjoyable

Couldn't commit to gaston at crux and pumped out. Will be back for this. Good climb

Short and pumpy with a nice knee bar

weird one if you ask me

Tricky start and an awkward crux move in the middle, but generally good climbing. Makes a good warm-up for this particular crag.

Quite a few hard moves right up to the anchors, but interesting and technical climbing. Stemming!

A pleasant traverse that gets harder the closer you get to the anchors (as the handholds become quite polished and slopey, and the footholds vanish entirely). A bit of a nuisence to clean, though (backjump). I had fun leap-frogging my 3 quick draws all the way along this one when I realised that I hadn't brought enough. I'm becoming quite concerned for Neil's prospensity for girdle traverses.

Placing the draws. Can't claim an onsight as I was getting beta from Neil for the purpose of getting through this and into the monster traverse FA. A reachy, campusy start, to a short tricky (and reachy) middle section. Not too bad at all.

More or less an old-school onsight FA of this radical traverse. Thanks for donating the hard yards cleaning and installing anchors on this, Neil. Excitingly strenuous all-gear traversing (after the initial climb to get into the groove) with bombproof gear, great rock, and a variety of jams to test/develop your technique. Long and often foot-loose. Take a double rack 0.5 -> 3, and a single 0.4 and 4. Optional wire-placements. Its possible to clip some bolts on other routes, but why would you?

3rd shot in the dark with a headlamp. I sandbagged myself on the flash, and a silly foot-slip halted the 2nd shot. 3rd time lucky it is! Kind of awkwardly hard from start to finish, with the trick hand-jam crux not being so bad for me... But I found other personal cruxes to make up for it. Unique,

Everything else was wet, so had to get straight on this. Pulled through the crux.

Figuring out the middle sequence/how to make the tricky crux clip.

Great fun. What an awesome crux sequence. A bit chossy at the top, though. Had some holds break on me but I stayed on.

looks like 16... lol! super sandbag!

still dog... grrrr!

shoulder injury strikes again... excuses, i know!

Finally ticked it, and managed not to dislocate my shoulder either (unlike the first two times)

Interior castle is a much better warmup