루트들 전통등반로서 South East에서

Cracks left of the Triclinicity corner, to DBB.

The clean hand crack. Either step left at the roof (grade 17) or continue direct up the crack (grade 19). Belay anchors at top.

Start: Starts at the clean RH facing corner near the foot of Avalanche Couloir

1. 35m (17) Up the corner and face to the overhang. Pass this on the L and continue up the line to a ledge at the base of a detached pillar

2. 25m (16) Climb up behind the pillar, then up the crack above. At the top traverse R to the abseil anchors at the top of Carpe Diem

Takes the prominent corner line immediately right of Chancellor Direct about 8m up the left side of Avalanche Couloir. Start in the big broken right facing corner as for Vice Chancellor or start up the short wall just right of Chancellor Direct to meet the big corner after 8m. This second option doesn't add much other than the possibility of a painful ground fall.

1. 30m. Follow the corner for 15m, traverse left and up to small square ledge. Climb the awkward crack to belay on an exposed ledge on the wall.

2. 25m. Up the clean crack above. The move off the next ledge into the crack was originally aided. At the top traverse right to the rap anchors at the top of Carpe Diem.

Starts as for Chancellor in the big right facing corner between Chancellor Direct and Carpe Diem.

1. 14m. Up Chancellor to a stance.

2. 24m. Climb to the base of the long chimney directly above. Gain the chimney directly via a 5m double crack, then continue up to the large chockstone.

3. 18m. Climb out around the chockstones and up the final corner crack.

Brilliant face climbing. A double set of small/medium wires very useful. About 10m right of CD is a recessed column. Scramble up to the base with care. Up, till you can step right onto the column proper. Follow shallow r facing corner till the gear fizzles out, then reach righ to gain hidden flake. Follow this up to gain top of column. There is a DBB a few metres up and left.

Crack to right of carpet diem with roof at 20m.

1a. A tasty morsel climbing the left-hand arete. Thoughtful moves past the bolts, then over the small roof, with a trad hand crack to the DBB (17m).

1b. Extra Nibbles. (17) If you want a little more trad action, climb the alternative start up the crack just around to the left of Canapes, joining the original route above the roof.

The arete directly off the walking track. Good but spaced protection.

Starts directly from the track between Bulging Buttress and University Buttress. Climb right side of arete on flakes and horizontals.

The first 10m is gear protected, the remaining is fully bolted.

Climbs the steep thin crack-line about 6 m R of Heat Pump. DBB lower-off.

Climb the slab, trending left of the prow to a lightly overhanging hand crack. Follow this up and over several spears of rock to a ledge (a belay can be set-up here to split the route into two pitches). From here, head to the crack on the left and follow it up and to the right, stepping right around the corner when it ends to DBB and rap-station.

Cracked face just to the right of the prow, 2m left of the tree. Great if you are a percussionist. For the rest of us, however, the tone emitted by tapping the flakes on this route is a tad scary (but the gear is good). Finishes with double bolt belay at the Black Magic step.

Poorly protected Climbs the obvious corner, grovel through the mossy overhang section, finish up the dirty chimney, Bolted loweroff

1. A roaming line starting up face reaching between horizontal breaks to small roof. Traverse R under roof and up to small ledge.

2. Up broken corner crack to top of initial column, head up and R to bolt belay. (combining first two pitches is definitely possible)

3. Diagonally L to another bolted belay and rap station.

On the wide wall, 2m right of The Bentwood. Starting low to the left, climb the left hand side of the wall. Finally move right at the top to DBB.

Climbs the right hand side of the wide wall to DBB. Good protection in horizontal cracks.

Crack immediately right of the large wall. Fun climb with abundant options for protection. Good for someone learning to lead. Recommend rap from top, lowering will drag rope.

chimney left of FTA

The obvious crack system on the south face of the first buttress, clearly visible from the track.

ACCESS: Either scramble up 60m of vegetated ledges OR (Much better) climb Sleeping Dogs at Summertime Buttress then scramble up and left to the base of the butress.

Start at the base of the buttress and climb up to the left of the prow. Move onto the left face and up the sustained, flared cracks to belay on a ledge just below the top of the buttress. Tape abseil to descend.

A sustained route following the prominent corners on the north side of the first buttress, clearly visible from the Organ Pipes Track.

Climb with difficulty into a shallow scoop using insecure small wires for protection (a peg was used here originally). Continue through a bulge using layaway holds to one more queasy experience, a sloping jug. Continue up to belay at a ledge.

the crack right of ITF

Start approximately 5m left of Wootang. Climb the thin crack line just right of the arête, protected by small to mid-sized cams (some people think these small cams are quite dodgy), then continue up the shallow corner above past 3 FH to a DBB at the ledge. A. Williams, early 2005.

The crack climb to the niche, then awkward and thoughtful climbing to the top.

The crack 2m right from Turkey Slap. Start in the crack with stemming options, through the leftwards jag, then to the top of Turkey slap pinnacle. Extend the DBB from Turkey Slap or easily continue to the top.

Starts just uphill of the pinnacle in an offwidth crack. Climb three offwidth sections to belay in base of chimney. Scramble out.

Alternative to the first two pitches of Moonraker. Pitch 1: Climb the crag for 10m, traverse right in the horizontal break to the cave and keep going as for Moonraker Pitch 2: Follow original variant until below the chimney, then step right to a small ledge and continue with the steep crack until you reach the original line again. Pitch 3: to rap station as for Moonraker

Nice line, take a #4 and #5.