등정들 Newfoundland에서

Free solo, very easy lots of fun.

That cam looked pretty solid today!

Oof trad onsight and my hardest pure trad route yet. Consistent climbing with cruxes at the bottom on the shared part of Candy and then a crux somewhere around the middle or higher.

Definitely old school 5.7. Took pretty good gear throughout, I used from a size two BD cam and downward, many nuts, and a few tricams.

It could be toproped to clean/follow/top rope with an anchor off of the Candy/Ass Master bolts with a redirect from a 0.4 cam placement just above where the corner ends.

A fun beginning trad lead even if I did freak out a bit in the middle. A bit pumpy! And feels ‘overhung’ at the top. It was also great that it was very dry today. A bit of foliage mid route.

Great beginner trad lead.

Trad lead.

Trad lead

So slippery. Attempted toprope. DIdn't get anywhere.

Toprope flash of this route after there are new glue-in bolts for anchors.

Finally got all the moves to this on lead, with the high clip for bolt 4.

Tightened bolt 4 but the hanger loosened again. Did the trad section after with a number 2 Camelot, a 0.75 Camelot, A sketchy brown tricam. Clipped the right "Ledge Dweller" bolt before moving to the newly installed glue-in bolts for anchors.

Set up a toprope with one 120cm sling and 4 locking carabiners.

Toproped to clean, fell at the crux and then later at the upper mini crux.

Lead it after Michael set it up. Go you!

Finally lead this after avoiding it (because it isn't like, good, it's just the most mediocre route ever). Stick clipped the high first bolt, climbed mostly to the right of the bolt line and was a bit to the right in the 'corner thing,' through the scrambly bit, then topped out to set up the toprope anchor. It's very... Well it's fine... I guess... Good one to tick off... It's actually not bad as a newbie toprope sort of...

Toproped this with the anchor on the Ledge Dweller anchors before topping out that thing and bouldering on the ledge (ugh) while attached to the rope with a trailing tail rope to try to set up "Yellow Fever" and then I toppped out the top ledge and clipped my active rope into 2 quickdraws and went to the "Yellow Fever" ledge. Then set myself up on rappel with the second rope and an anchor. Then rappelled back to the "Maggie" top hanger anchor to clean the quickdraws and drop the rope back to "Maggie". And then ascended back towards "Yellow Fever" to equalize the toprope and eventually rappel down it to set it up on toprope. It took an hour and it was the WORST. Even though I was never not attached I no longer recommend this set up idea. I will just wait until I am good enough to lead "Yellow Fever" on gear.

FINALLY REDPOINTED THIS ROUTE after having projected it for like, ten years. Had the quickdraws hung, but put in my own gear, the yellow 2 camelot and the green 0.74 camelot later. The crux clip then sequence was challenging, and the final moves after the last bolt traversing were challenging too. Was a great experience and so glad to have done this one. Will have to come back to do the ascent without pre-strung draws, possible to project '"Ledge Dweller" next time. Cheers, and thanks so much friends!!!!

Toproped this clean and then up and up a bunch more to set up some really nice photographs. Very fun moves and a long route. Awesome experience. Such a classic!

Lead on this little route, a nice warmup. Took off some pebbles from the ledge and some loose rock around it. At the top there are 2 hanger bolts and one quicklink for lowering.

Lead up to the crux bolt and clipped it, not sure if all the holds are in at the beginning. Then I fell, eventually climbed up using the holds on the left side to hang the route on 2 quickdraws for a toprope along with the quickdraws and worked out the crux section: For me, the left hand pocket, right hand to small thumb hold, left drop knee to left hand crimp, match then bump right hand to slightly juggy hold, set left foot high, and dyno to a good jug right before the finish.

Tried it again on lead, did the beginning smoother, but still couldn't do the crux, got too tired, and went out on the left side to the anchors. Clipped the 2 quickdraws, and then topped out and lowered off of one locking carabiner to clean the draws. Then retrieved the carabiner from the higher bolt from scrambling along from the left side and walking to the edge. It wasn't fun and I wouldn't really recommend it.

Tried to flash it, and broke a hold off the initial high right hand. Lowered off the stick clipped bolt, started from the ground, and then sent the route. Enjoyed it, it was big and dynamic and it played to all of my strengths. The LO lower off fixed draws were in good shape to clean the route.

One of the better routes at the crag, stick clipped the bolt and had beta from a friend who toproped it before me. Good holds with a crux in the middle. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape. It's possible to toprope off the same anchor it shares with "Purgatory" with or without redirect carabiners.

Relatively, one of the best routes imho at this particular crag. Pretty aesthetic. I started on the same feature as gRIPped, and then went straight up with a cool match and then left pocket to high right hand hold before the end. The LO lower off fixed carabiners are in good shape.

A narrow TRash (toprope flash) for me at the end of the day. Big move to the second last (or last? Does it share a bolt with "Acorn" ? ) bolt that seemed to go even though I think it might have felt mentally run out on lead. Not bad moves, not a bad route.

On this route, the top hangers and bolts seem fine, but the quicklinks connecting the LO Lower Off Fixed Carabiners seems pretty rusted. Both of them. I lowered off them, and it was fine but it didn't look appaealing. For reference, I'm about 114 pounds for a slow controlled lower.

I imagine one could go to the LO's for "Grateful Dead" to lower, but one would have to be on lead and then come back to swing and clean this route to do that, and would be probably unable to clean draws off "Acorn" that way.

Flashed it after a friend had the second quickdraw hung and it was pre-clipped off bolt 1. I accidentally skipped the last bolt before the end, I might have been too far left, making the clip to the LO's scary. I would recommend actually clipping all of the bolts.

The route seems a bit runout between bolts 2 and 3, it's fairly easy and juggy terrain, idk about rock for bolting there. The last move clipping the top anchors I found a bit more challenging than the other routes, as the 'top jug,' seems to be on the 'right,' and it's slopey at the top elsewhere.

The top bolts and hangers seem fine, but the two quicklinks at the top seem kinda rusty. See note on 'Grateful Dead' about having lowered off these LO's at the end, it being okay, but I'm pretty light, and it was only a lower and no sudden movements or swings.

It appears on Mountain Project : face" target="_blank">https://www.mountainproject.com/area/108094394/cemetery-face

There are toprope routes to the climber's left some easy topropes with two anchor bolts each. We didn't try these today, but we vaguely saw shiny pieces we figure are anchor bolts. Could probably do the scramble to the left to get to them, with caution, to toprope and subsequently walk down with the anchors (?) to clean. An adventure for next time!

Overall, not a bad area especially with being so close to town, and the approach being super quick, even from the first 'lower' parking lot as mentioned at the end of the road.

Redpointed after having tried it with Paul years ago. Remembering how I was nervous for the crux, this time I admit I grabbed the glue-in bolt to hang the drraw on it before proceeding to the finish and working the crux and hanging the remaining draws and the anchor.

Lead this clean on the second try today, narrowly not falling off as my left hand slipped just as my right hand acheived the jug after the crux.

Entertained by the current muontain project description "With a first bolt 20 feet off the ground, way above a low crux that may or may not still be possible, Ass Master may be the least appealing climb at Main Face. Two closely spaced bolts protect the middle climbing, then easy climbing leads to the top. The route may be improved by adding a bolt" I thought I'd give this a go on toprope after having set up the anchor on Candy.

That might be it's redeeming quality, because the other option is "two or three quick draws, 20 ft long stick clip. Rappel anchor shared with Candy". Plus optional trad pieces which I'd probably place in the easy section up top.

It gets easier as it goes, I wasn't able to pull the sit-start moves but then again, it's unclear with the rocks shuffling where it was intended to begin. I got a clean continuous toprope from having one hand on the undercling under the roof, my feet on, and then reaching around the roof to the hold, and onwards and so forth, tending to wander left to make it different from Candy before topping out and rappelling.

Oh, and I also tried to project Candy Direct while I was at it. Spoiler alert: I didn't get very far. LOL.

Lead it and this time I also placed a red tricam to the left of the 0.75 green BD X4 cam. Perhaps a bigger tricam could eliminate the need for a horizontal cam (even a very bendy stem one). Time will tell when that order comes in.

Lead this with a stick clipped first bolt thank goodness, pretty chill, crux then gear placement.

For gear, I had a decent tricam, a cam, and maybe another piece.

Probably only needed one but I couldn't find an amazing piece like on Candy, though I'm sure one exists, I wasn't confident enough that I knew where that was.

Super fun moves, classic climb.

It was pretty wet today. Even did it without opening my chalk bag for increased willpower development. I missed the wet chalk, to be honest.

Love this as a first warm up.

Lead this with a pre clip and the draws hung. Always a bit nerve-wracking the first balancy part and the slab part up top. Extended the far bolt on the right and the first bolt over the roof with a 60 cm sling (alpine draw) each time to minimize rope drag. Threw some loose rocks just on the ledge away. A not bad climb. One would have to make a REALLY long anchor to minimize rope drag?

Really fun. Climbed with pre clip and draws up. With a new crimp sequence out left instead of the odd downward dyno I'd done before it climbs more like the 5.9 to the left. Still challenging. Fun ledges. It was tough to get all of the quickdraws down on rappel but a lower might have been rough on the rope.

Finally redopointed this without pre-placed draws. Had to do a high foot to get bolt 4 and also had to hand-tighten bolt 2 (it was mini-wrench tightened on the lower). Went to the new Maggie glue-ins after clipping the rightmost draw on the "Ledge Dweller" anchor. Was good to tick off, definitely pumpy in the crux to the first gear placement for a first climb. The top crux felt mildly better after a careful right foot placement.

Lead this on gear with my single rack and DB's extra cams sized 0.75-4 plus his large nuts and offset nuts. Placed gear with help of DB, apparently my placements were good at the beginning and less optimal higher up maybe I rushed them. Lessons learned are to try to place a larger cam in the space to get a better hold. Not trust pebbles. Place further in. Really test and set pieces. Either way it was a great experience and climb and very happy with it.

Toproped this as a project. The beginning seemed to go except for the one crux move after the roof, pulling from the matched hands on the crimps, with a right foot out right on a pebble, going up right to the 'jug,' and then cross through left to the good jug. Must need perfect timing, better foot grab, or maybe more lock-off.

Then for the 5th element part, I could do a lot of the easier moves linked together. A few takes up top with the tricky corner back and forth, sometimes it would take some time to find the sequence. Found the last move hard actually after the juggy roof. Big move.

Lots of pockets and small crimps and body tension, hard on the fingers and skin, technical feet. The exposure is cool and it's nice by the ocean. A long-term project perhaps for lead, for toprope I think the 5th element part after that one hard move or starting from yellow fever could go within a few sessions but who knows if I'll get on it that much this season. Great experience

Okay, so I tried to second it clean to learn the gear on this route, and I learned some things about the gear, but I also almost got a 0.4 X4 BD cam stuck in the horizontal placement near the top. Taking and pulling on the trigger with 2 hands seemed to dislodge it. A classic line, still lots to offer me.

THIE ROUTE HAS AT LEAST 14 BOLTS ON THE FACE, plus the anchor (we used a 10m cordalette and 4 locking quickdraws).

Had previously onsighted this route on lead, ran up it to set a toprope for friends. The bulge is a cool and manageable crux, and I appreciate knowing the holds now. Interesting and slabby, challenging with the wind at the top.

Toproped up this to bring a friend up as a second so she could practice rappelling off of it.