Il1, 9.5km 6 - 8 hours. A true Chamonix classic
which sees surprisingly little traffic, probably
because of the amount of walking required at
both the start and finish of the route. It is well
worth the effort though for the views and
solitude in Himalayan-esque surroundings.
Spending two nights in the Refuge des Conscrits
and climbing Mont Tondu one day and this route
the next day is a superb use of a few sunny
summer days.
Climb the final slope just below the summit of
the Aiguille de la Bérangère. This steepens
considerably to around 35 degrees and then
easy scrambling leads to the summit.
From the top of the Bérangère, descend the
thin and exposed ridge leading north - this is
much easier under a good cover of firm snow. If
dry this will involve some rocky scrambling on
occasionally loose blocks. In good conditions it
should take roughly half an hour from the top of
the Bérangère to reach the Col de la Bérangère
which is a good viewpoint for the Tré la Tête
peaks and the Glacier d'Armancette, which drops
away steeply to the north.
Continue east and climb the snow slopes on
the left of the ridge leading to Point 3670m.
Follow the easy but exposed ridge in a
spectacular position over Points 3666m and
3633m before dropping down to the Col des
Dômes. It is possible to descend from here
without tagging Point 3673m, but seeing as it
can be reached without technical difficulty and is
the highest of all the Dômes, it seems a shame
not to nip up it before coming back to the Col
des Dômes and descending to the hut.
FA. (Dômes) E.T.Coleman, F.Mollard, J.Jacquemont
2.9.1858. First ascent of the Traverse is not known.
