루트들 Veneto에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Se si prende la catena di destra attraversando il tetto nel lato sinistro con quel passaggio diventa un 6c scarso. Con catena originale a sinistra 6a come da guida.

1. IV, 45 meters: climb in an ascending dihedral to the right, where higher up there is an evident area of ​​mountain pines. Continue arriving at a balcony where you stop on a mountain.

2. III +, 50 meters: climb the slab above the belay, then move to the right and enter a grassy dihedral, from which you then exit to the left. Go up a vague edge to the right, finally stopping on the mountain.

3. IV +, 50 meters: go up the slabs above the belay, without a set course and then tend towards the left, arriving at a good level where you stop on a mountain. Warning: not difficult but poorly protectable shot.

4. IV, 80 meters: go up on easy ramps to the left, surrounding the rocks (nail), then go up by dihedral-grassy channel and rocks, leaving at the end to the left to arrive at a blade-spike where to equip the stop, from reinforce with friend.

5. IV, 40 meters: go up crosswise to the left and continue through the crack to the belay with a piton and hourglass under the direction of an evident dihedral.

6. IV +, 40 meters: climb the beautiful handled dihedral, then continue along an easy crack, until you stop on a small terrace.

7. V +, 30 meters: turn left and then climb the dihedral above, until you come to a stop on the right at the base of a cracked wall under the direction of a large yellow roof. Stop on two small hourglasses. I don't have a precise memory of this shot.

8. VI + and A0, A1 on pegs and friends, otherwise VII +, 25 meters: up the bolted crack, first slightly to the right, then straight towards the roof above. Do not reach the roof but go up to the left and then back up to the belay.

9. VI + and A1, 30 meters: traverse to the left (nail), then a little longer and then climb towards the roof and follow the crack under it to the left. Up by crack towards the roof above (a few nails). Get over the roof thanks to the nails on site. Challenging exit, a stirrup is useful. After the roof, continue more easily and reach the stop to the left, next to a niche that can be suitable for bivouacking in 2-3 people. It is the most challenging pitch, which we found wet even after a dry spell.

10. VI + / VII- and A0 or VII, 25 meters: traverse to the left to a stuck nut, then go up an obligatory vertical wall (VII-), then to the right and then aiming for a niche further to the left with ropes. Traverse to the left under the niche, you will come to a nail and then to the famous artisan nail of Casarotto, very protruding. The big bolt is very danceable and tends to come out: to use it, it must be pulled downwards. One meter below is also an hourglass with a cord, useful for the second. Now cross briefly to the left again and arrive at the convenient stop.

11. VI, 45 meters: go up by dihedral, staying on the right side (peg), then traverse to the left to the central part of the dihedral. Follow it and then cross left to a comfortable stop.

12. IV +, 45 meters: from here begins the great dihedral that made the route famous. Climb through an open dihedral, also taking advantage of the slabs on the left, up to the belay. Warning: very poor protection. Length 13, V +, 50 meters: continue along the dihedral, now more protectable, up to the belay.

13. V +, 45 meters: still dihedral, overcoming a roof on the left.

14. VI +, 45 meters: following the dihedral you arrive under a square roof with a crack on the bottom that you follow to the left and then continue straight up to the belay on the right.

15. VI, 50 meters: vertical dihedral.

16. VI, 40 meters: dihedral up to a nail on the left, then go up through the crack and then re-enter the dihedral until you stop.

17. VI and A0 or VI +, 55 meters: by dihedral you reach a roof that you avoid on the right, then you climb up to a short but very bad area (pitons), then to a piton with a cord you cross to the left to achieve better and more articulated rock. You come out straight from the large dihedral, stopping on the ledge, beware of the many debris.

18. I, 50 meters: go up over rocks and debris to the right, arriving at an excellent bivouac area under large overhangs. Traverse to the right again until you reach a dihedral worked on the right of a niche, belay to be equipped.

19. max IV, then II / III, 140 meters: go up the dihedral, and then continue for a long time on easy rocks. Then go left towards a ridge at the base of a gray-brown rock edge, where you can stop on a spike.

20. III, 55 meters: you pass the rounded edge on good articulated rock (to be verified), then moving left by saddle with pines to reach an easy ledge that leads to the summit.

5+ A2 or 6+ A1 obligatory. The most famous and popular route on this wall.

Fr: 5b/c, 5b, 5c, 5a, 5c, 6b+, 5b/c, 3a. https://www.montialpago.it/page/ruben00.htm

https://www.stadler-markus.de/alpinklettern/dolomiten/kletterroute/via-ruben-gonzalez.html

Überhang, kurze Platte (crux) und großgriffiger Überhang

Inizia dalla fine del tetto del Cucchiaio. A destra va il Cucchiaio (verso la corda), dritti si sale per la variante.

Fessura e placca

Placca

Attacco condiviso con la via Cane antitangente, al bivio di quest'ultima seguire gli spit a destra.