루트들 Trentino-Alto Adige에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Left finish of La Volpe.

#sd

There are 2 more pitches in 6 on the "flame" (the cliff right of the start) that are part of the route - climb them and scramble down first .

1. The start of the route is marked by a metal plate as well as a bolt. The plate is not highly visible. You probably need to hike up to the base of the wall to spot it. For the first pitch, follow a mix of bolts as well as fixed pitons to the belay.

2. Follow the bolts to the left. Make sure to find the good belay that is far to the left. Skip the bolt & fixed piton that you encouter first.

3. Crux pitch that is very well protected. Difficulty is soft for the grade given in the guide (around 6a+ / 6b by my estimate). The pitch crosses to the right and ends on a nice ledge, surrounded by Edelweiss.

4. Nice, long pitch with a detour to the right at the start. If you use half ropes, consider clipping the detour seperately to reduce drag.

5. Simply very enjoyable climbing.

6. Small ledge at the end. The belay is located a few meters from the edge to the right.

Only some of the belays are connected, and usually with not so trusty looking ropes.

A near 130 metres of blissful, uninterrupted crack system.

Approach this climb as for going to the "Seitner Wande". Where you turn off Sentiero #3, the climb is immediately uphill of you. Recommended to go approx. 15m up this trail, then turn back to the right, heading towards the start of the route.

The route starts with a slung tree.

1. [30m, V] The mossy one. Head up the mossy slab, protecting yourself with a crack on the right wall. Near the top of the slab, traverse L approx. 5 m to a mini-dihedral with a solid crack. Continue up, past the tree with the sling to the anchor.

2. [30m, VI+] The sexy one. Go left of the anchor, about 3m of moss/dirt to the start of "the crack". Up, up and away, Buzz Lightyear. Follow the mixed hand/fist crack, initially vertical, then traversing L all the way to the next anchor.

3. [20m, VII+, 1 NH] The hard one. Finger jams and small pro leads to a swingy, ape-like layback to some sweet, delicious jugs just before the anchor. Go slightly right of the crack for the final 2-3 metres to find the jugs, no pro.

4. [25m, VI] The alpine one. Go L, underneath a tree (excellent pro), and up to the L of the Big Block. Use the crumbly crack as protection, hell, sling a chockstone if ya want. Summit the Big Block. Traverse across the base of the big corner (no pro), to find a crack in the wall on the R. Continue up the face, into the corner (big pro), wrestle up the off-width section. At a small rooflet, traverse R to the anchor.

Descent: Abseil the route (4x 25m abseils or 2x 50m)

Up to the first anchor.

Right variant of Sahar.

Same start as Unnamed 1 but connects right into Karl Knopf.

Name is written on the base

Lovely, dare I say marvellous dihedral split by a crack! Crux is mid-route, where the crack widens. Easier finish, excellent rock.

• Double rack of cams #0.5-# 3
• 1x # 4 (or # 3.5 can be positioned higher on the crux)
• 1x # 6 (or # 5) not essential, but useful at the start.
• 1x Quickdraw for tree sling