루트들 이태리에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Nonexistant due to Rockfall: https://www.planetmountain.com/it/notizie/alpinismo/frana-sulla-torre-venezia-civetta-danneggiata-la-tissi-altre-classiche-dolomiti.html

A very repeated classic route at Rocca pendice, fully bolted, follows a logical line of dihedrals and cracks in the southern corner of Rocca. The starting pillar on L4 is beautiful, above the difficulties of the route. 5 total pitches. From 'attacchi' sector, east wall, continue to the left. Immediately after the start of 'via Carugati', take the obvious and steep canal, go up it a few meters, cross it with a step of III and you reach the terrace where the route starts.

https://www.falesia.it/multipitchroute/45/spigolo-barbiero.html

Some pitons in the route, anchors fixed or to be strenghten. Classical itinerary, frequently repeated. Return by the foot through the southwestern ridge of Punta Torelli to Porcellizzo pass.

http://quartogrado.com/volume1_2/relazioni/TORRE%20EDWARDS_Gracchio_A.htm

Via dedicata a Davide Pinamonti, caduto scalando la parete Nord di Punta Massari nel giugno del 2011. Quasi tutte le soste con un chiodo e uno spit, un passaggio in A0 con quattro spit e cordone. Può essere utile una staffa.

Diedro tecnico

Placca verticale

3 SL

SL 5 V+/RS2/I

3 SL V+/R2/I

V+/R2/I

Topo can be found on https://climbing-sicily.com/route-gli-infedeli/

Topo can be found on https://climbing-sicily.com/route-solstizio-d-inverno/

L1: 35m V+ L2: 30m V L3: 30m IV

First 3 pitches of Pincelli-Brianti then, at the balcony, proceed up vertically

Bolts are quite unsafe

https://www.nikobeta.net/climbing/arrampicata-ambiente/via-la-vigliacca/

via varia con placche, diedri, camini e traversi

15min approach from the hut, 2h from parking to hut.

Through the north face, left of Spigolo del Velo / Schleierkante. 15min approach from the hut, 2h to the hut.

Hervorragend schöne Klettertour, oft begangen

First four pitches are shared with Via Dibona. Fifth pitch leads more right to Joriband. From there 90 meters walking to the edge. Marked with a blue "J".

https://www.bergsteigen.com/touren/klettern/via-ada-plus-col-dei-bos/

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/coldeibos1/coldeibos1.htm

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/COL%20DEI%20BOS_Ada.htm

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/coldeibos/coldeibos.htm

The Primo Spigolo (First Edge) climbing route is a classic climbing route on Tofana di Rozes in the Tofane Range of the Dolomites, Italy. It is considered one of the most sought-after climbs in the region. The Primo Spigolo follows the prominent ridge on the southwest face of Tofana di Rozes, offering a thrilling and exposed climbing experience.

The Primo Spigolo route requires technical climbing skills and experience, as it involves steep rock faces, exposed sections, and challenging moves. The climbing difficulty is graded V, which translates to a challenging and demanding climb.

The route is characterized by its excellent rock quality, with solid and compact Dolomite limestone. Climbers can expect a combination of face climbing, chimney climbs, and exposed ridge traverses, all of which add to the excitement and adventure of the climb.

The Primo Spigolo climbing route on Tofana di Rozes offers not only a physically demanding climbing experience but also stunning panoramic views of the Dolomite peaks and valleys. Source Powrock

https://www.planetmountain.com/english/rock/dolomites/itineraries/scheda.php?lang=eng&id_itinerario=277&id_tipologia=38

https://www.sassbaloss.com/pagine/uscite/casonformin1/casonformin1.htm

http://www.quartogrado.com/volume2_2/relazioni/CIMA%20CASON%20DI%20FORMIN_Alvera.htm

The right-hand crack of the north face

splendid crack line with crux at the top, just before reaching the SW-edge

Tourbeschreibung von der Erstbegehung: Große Zinne 3003m Erste Aufstieg über die Westwand: Walter F. b. Bernuth und Hans Dülfer am 18. August 1913.

Die westlichen Begrenzungskanten der Nord und Südwand flankieren eine verhältnismäßig schmale, von mächtigen überhängen durchzogene, senkrechte Wandflucht. Den Durchstieg durch diesen, über 200 Meter hohen, gelben Abbruch vermittelt eine etwa 150 Meter lange, rißdurchzogene Verschneidung, welche die Wand in ihrem südlichen Drittel bilden. - Von der westlichen Zinnenscharte nach links aufwärts und schließlich zu dem kleinen Schuttfeld unmittelbar unter dem senkrechten Wandabbruch der Verschneidung. Hier links zwischen einem Zacken und der Wand 5 Meter aufwärts; dann rechts steil 5 Meter hinan, bis man auf schmaler Leiste 4 Meter nach links querrend den Beginn eines gelben feinen Risses erreicht. Durch ihn senkrecht ungefähr 6 Meter hinauf zu einem Absatz. Rechts um eine abgesprengte Platte herum und über eine Rampe schräg rechts aufwärts zu einem kurzen Band. Oberhalb eines am Boden befindlichen Sicherungshakens äußerst schwierig über die 8 Meter hohe gelbe und senkrechte Wandstelle zu einem zweiten Band, das sich unmittelbar under dem Beginn der erwähnten Verschneidung befindet. In ihr mit Benutzung des Risses ungewöhnlich schwierig 12 Meter aufwärts unter einen kleinen Überhang der rechten Seitenwand. Über ihn hinweg und in der überhängenden Verschneidung weitere 12 Meter ungewöhnlich schwierig hinan unter einen Überhang der linken Seitenwand, der durch einen mächtigen, anscheinend losen Block gebildet wird. Noch 12 Meter äußerst schwierig aufwärts zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken) oberhalb eines Klemmblockes. Höhe der in einem Stück zu durchkletternden, größtenteils überhängenden Stelle vom „zweiten Bande“ etwa 40 Meter. Nun etwas leichter 5 Meter aufwärts unter einem großen Überhang, äußerst schwierig über ihn hinweg und nach 6 Meter zu einem Stand (Sicherungshaken etwas höher). Ein ungefähr 10 Meter hoher Kamin leitet unter einen großen, schon von unten gut sichtbaren eingeklemmten Block. Durch ein enges Loch hinter ihm zu einem Geröllfeld unter der sich nun bedeutend erweiternden Fortsetzung des Kamins. In ihm an eingeklemmten Blöcken vorbei etwa 25 Meter spreizend aufwärts zu einem Absatz. In einem brüchigen Einriß links noch 6 Meter hinan zu einem Band. Etwas nach rechts und durch einen 15 Meter hohen Riß auf das nächsthöhere Band. Nun über einen Überhang hinauf und rechts durch eine Geröllrinne auf den Westgrad, über den man öfters rechts ausweichend den Gipfel erreicht. - Der lange Riß dürfte fast immer naß sein. Normale Zeit etwa 5 Stunden. Eine der schwersten uns bekannten Dolomittouren.

(Veröffentlicht im Jahresbericht 1913 der Alpenvereinsektion Bayerland)

Topo and description by Christoph Hainz

One of the many classic ascents in the wall. http://gianpasora.blogspot.com/2011/08/cesare-e-il-coston-daverau.html

1. overcome the overhang above the belay, then continue on simpler rocks in a slight oblique to the right up to the belay (glue in bolts x2 and ring). (25m, IV, 1 piton, 1 bolt)

2. Diagonal to the right in the direction of a black corner that you follow for a few meters. Traverse the slab to the left, bypassing a yellow overhang and climb up to the comfortable belay at the base of the overhanging yellow wall (glue in bolts x2 and ring OR old belay on 3 pitons). (25m, IV+)

3. Climb the dihedral above the belay until below the overhang; traverse for about 2 meters to the right and pass it. Above this, follow some easier blocks to the anchor (glue-in bolts x2 + ring). (30m, V+/IV A0, 12 pitons, some dodgy).

4. Climb the slab (unprotected) aiming for the obvious left slanting chimney at the end, which goes to the belay (2 bolts + chain). (35m, V+, 8 pitons, 1 intermediate anchor)

Takes a line up the centre of the 3rd Tower with a steep crack leading to the crux overhang above the big ledge at 2/3 height.

After passing the Lokomotiv, go along the southwest wall of the First Tower until you reach a recess, with pillars on the right and left. The route runs along the evident dihedral slightly inclined to the right.

1. Scramble up slightly loose rock to the base of the prominent Trenker Crack. Anchor on pitons, to the left of the crack immediately after the small vertical section. (30m, III)

2. Climb the slightly right-trending crack. Before the crack becomes vertical, traverse 2-3 to the right to a small ledge with the anchor (1 big glue-in bolt). (35 m, IV-)

3. Climb over the easy overhang above the belay, then slightly left to the dihedral. Follow the dihedral, past a steeper polished section protected by a bolt, until you reach a good belay on a ledge. (1 bent glue-in bolt + 2 pitons). (35m, V+)

4. Follow the dihedral up, to the right of the small column, following the slightly polished crack. Continue until the next belay (1 glue-in bolt). (35m, III+) 1 piton.

5. 2 options for this pitch:

a) Head up a couple of metres before leaving the crack and traversing diagonally right up an easy slab to a large ledge. Anchor on two glue-in bolts in the middle of the ledge.

b) Continue up the crack to the top before stepping out right on the ledge, belay on two pitons, OR belay on the right of this directly under the chimney of the final pitch (2 glue-in bolts). (25m, IV-)

1. Traverse another 2-3 meters to the right on the ledge, then follow the yellowish rocks up the chimney to the top. From here, via easy rocks, exit onto the wide ridge that leads to the top of the tower and the anchor (1 glue-in bolt). (30m, IV-) 2 pitons

2. Optional to reach summit: Follow the path to the left to reach the summit of the 1st Sella Tower. (40m, I)

Descent:

a) Abseil from summit: To the right of the saddle between 1st/2nd towers, follow the ridge ~30m to an abseil (40m).

OR

b) Descent by the "Via Normale" From the summit, follow the obvious path that leads to the saddle between the First and Second Sella Towers, then continue around the 2nd Tower, following the rock piles/cairns.

At a crossroads, take the path that turns right down the steep gully towards the valley. There are points where downhill climbing is required, never higher than II.

Here, the abseil and the Via Normale join up again. Shortly before the base of the wall, the trail separates to the left and right. To the right, there are two abseil anchors (top 35m, bottom 25m). To the left there is a downclimb (grade II).

Once at the base, follow the path to the right to return to the parking lot.

Old trad route left of The Wall. Through the crack between the towers (?). Through a crack (5) and a chimney (4,5) and further to the top (4+).

https://www.albertodegiuli.com/home/alberee/public_html/wp-content/uploads/2011/05/TheWall_Falzarego.pdf

https://www.ramellasergio.it/Testo/VIE_FUTURE/FANIS/tracciato_piccola_falzarego_comici.html

https://www.esercito.difesa.it/comunicazione/pagine/falzarego_140708.aspx

5 obl.

https://www.planetmountain.com/Rock/vie/itinerari/scheda.php?lang=ita&id_itinerario=303&id_tipologia=38

http://quartogrado.com/volume2_1/relazioni/LAGAZUOI_Maurizio%20Speciale.htm

https://www.casa-alfredino.co.uk/alpine-climbing/m-speciale-piccolo-lagozuoi-vi/

9 SL 435m + 2 SL 150m zum Gipfel

An old, little-known alpine quest up Gantkofel/Macaion, potentially unrepeated since 1989.