루트들 Around Nairobi에서 선택된 등급들을 위해서

Mantle up to the first bolt. Tricky climbing leads to the second bolt as the terrain eases off to finish.

About 40' right of the last route is a tree up to the right of a wide crack. Climb to the tree and move rightwards past it to a detached block. Up the wall and through the archway to the top.

Historic route number: 53

A short way up the gully right of Hit and Run there is an obvious scoop near the ground. Up to this, then harder move out of scoop, and straight up to top.

Takes the right-sloping chimney in the centre of the crag. Start up to overhanging tree, and surmount this to ledge. Move 8' right then up obvious crack (crux), over first bulge and on to finish.

Historic route number: 56

Start at the very base of slab at small bush some feet right of boulder. Climb centre of 3m nose and 8m slab above to vertical wall. Traverse left and climb directly into groove above. Up groove to prominent horizontal crack. Move left onto wall and climb to fig tree belay.

At the extreme left end of the cliff a smooth wall ends in a corner crack. Climb this to a ledge at 20'. Continue up using the wall on the right to gain the crack above. Follow to top.

Historic route number: 57

Start in crack behind clump of trees where there is a thick grey tree root.

1. 12m. Climb crack 4m and move right onto wall and to platform. Move left across crack to wall with good holds and climb into sentry box. Belay to column on right.

2. 17m. Ascend back of sentry box until a prominent crack, slightly right is reached. Climb this and move left-handed across wall leading to small bush. 4.5m leads to boulder for belay. Alternate finish by traversing left from top of back of sentry box to fig tree.

Climb the short corner right of 'Making Movies', into the gully above. Move up the left wall to the base of the steep crack above. Climb the crack past the tree and exit left at the top.

Historic route number: 61

Start on left-hand piece of a broken block below the left end of an overlap which extends to Lancelot, 3m right of clump of nettle trees. Follow a vertical line of holds over the overlap, past a small pocket, to easier ground. Then go up a vague crack to the white-streaked arete on the right. Go up this to a bushy ledge and straight over the overhang on a large hold.

Start immediately right of 'Cat People', and climb arete to big ledge beneath main wall. Traverse right along ledge across a white smear, and move around the corner to chimney. Move up and cross over to the left to the foot of a grey wall split by a narrow crack. Climb the crack and continue past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 63a

A grand old Lukenia classic and a superb introduction to this cliff. At the left end of the cliffs a prominent crack with a rightwards rising ear at 4.5m. Climb crack and step right around ear. Continue easily up to ledge and left-hand fig tree belay. Climb white-coloured wall left of big groove with a tricky step left onto good position on arete, and move up to ledge & belay. Move out rightwards 3m past small nettle tree, and up to horizontal crack. Up directly over this and up wall (crux) above to obvious recess. Traverse left 3m and straight up to top.

This is the obvious crack/chimney immediately left of 'Congo'. Entertaining. Up crack into chimney then bowel up to the top.

Historic route number: 66a

Named in honour of a Congolese dance-style that may or may not help in getting up this route. The route follows a ramp that slopes up to the left (very manky RP placement). Move onto the wall (beware of loose holds) and traverse left across the top of a prominent hollow until reaching a good ledge (crux). Surmount the ledge and move upwards (good, small wires) on steep ground with juggy holds to a horizontal crack (good cam) between the 'hanging gardens'. The 'hanging gardens' are wild orchids, so please do not damage (natural pro).

There was much competition for this one between John Temple and Ian Howell. The former won! This route is the obvious corner crack to the right of the previous routes. Start where there is white rock, and climb the crack past a tree to the top.

Historic route number: 75

The deep chimney to the right of the previous route is climbed inside. Exit when possible and instead of continuing up the chimney take the groove, moving left from ledge.

Historic route number: 86

Start 10' right of 'Maggie'. Climb the slab and move rightwards below trees to a platform. Continue up the corner crack to the left.

Historic route number: 92

Access: take the good path that leads to the saddle to the right (east) of the peak. At the saddle, walk 10 meters to the base of the climb, on the slab to the right hand side of the leaning buttress.

1. 65 meters. Start up the slab and towards the trees in the wide slanting crack for protection. Belay on the highest tree just before the end of the crack.

2. 45 meters - Unprotected. Pass behind the tree to a ledge and climb up the slab without gear, tending rightwards at the end. End in the grassy cove on the right for a a belay on moving flakes (sit in the grass maybe? we didn't test the belay).

3. 58 meters. Directly up from belay to horizontal flake then traverse rightwards to big flake (30m). Cross over and up steeper slab on great holds to grass and to a tree in the gully on the right.

4. 20 meters straight up to the top. Descent: walk straight to the other side of the rock, walk down, veering leftwards.

This route follows the left-hand crack system at the back of the deep recess left of 'Ragged Glory'.

1. Climb the wide crack and flakey face on its left past small roof to ledge at 10m. Chockstone belay.

2. Continue up the deep chimney past large chockstone and over precarious boulders to tree belay.

Could be climbed as one pitch, but you'll have a devil of a time.

Historic route number: 43a

Starts up the prominent groove North Groove, to the detached pillar.

1. 12 m Climb the groove to where it steepens. A traverse right on small holds leads to a tree and block belays, small stance.

2. 25 m Bridge up the groove above the tree and swing round to the slab on the right. Climb up this a little and traverse right again and up to the overhang which is turned on its right. Now up over awkward blocks and up final steep corner.

Climb the faint arête to the right of 'Dapper Flapper'.

First impressions are that the grade is 22 A2, but we would be happy for a second ascent party to downgrade the difficulty. Will write up description, but anyone wanting to repeat the route, can contact me at any time. Three pitches, right-hand side of Springs Wall, through the left side of overhangs.

1. 8m, 4a

   Start at the foot of broken groove midway between 'Fracture' and 'The Threader'.

   Climb the groove 5m, before launching rightwards over hanging slab. Step back left behind small pinnacle to belay on small fig tree.

2. 25m, 4b

   Climb offwidth crack on left past handy chockstone to surmount pointy boulder on left. Step right onto face a climb rightwards before stepping left below small roof. Climb loose overhang to pathetic tree on ledge. Continue up the dihedral, over boulders to top.

Climb the wide chimney to the right of the previous route, to the overhang. Move onto the left wall below a narrow crack. Climb this to the finish (crux).

Historic route number: 2

At the extreme left end of the Bookhouse Cliffs, a detached block forms a wide curving crack facing north. This route climbs the chimney 6' to the right. Awkward moves at the start lead to a bulge. Climb over this to a ledge on the left, and surmount small detached block. Step right to easy finish.

Historic route number: 3

This route shares the same start as 'Asylum Years' but continues up to the grey hanging root. Climb to the roof and move out onto the left wall (crux). Continue to the top.

Historic route number: 8

This route starts on the small outcrop just before 'Frog Buttress'. A crack splits the cliff. Climb this to top.

Historic route number: 13

This route starts on a small buttress immediately to the left of the main 'Frog Buttress'. Climb the two cracks at the left end of the cliff to a small tree. Traverse a long way rightwards until a move up can be done, enabling a long traverse rising leftwards to be made. When possible make an awkward exit up onto a small grassy ledge and the top. This is a poorly protected route, justifying its name, but nonetheless having a certain quality.

Historic route number: 14

First climbed on Ian Howell's 50th birthday! Start about 15' right of 'Finally First', at a chimney. Climb this and traverse left to gain another wide crack. Follow this to the top.

Historic route number: 22

To the right of 'Hamsini' is a big block and another corner. The corner is taken to the top.

Historic route number: 23

Climb the Wall 10' to the right of 'Amnesia'. Move right into the crack at the small tree and up this to finish.

Historic route number: 25

The crack to the right of 'The Shoot'.

Historic route number: 28

The next crack on the right with a chockstone halfway up.

Historic route number: 29

At the left end of the crag is a short chimney. Take this to a ledge and then easily right to the final wall. Climb slab past a tree and exit right up a crack.

Historic route number: 30

This route starts 30' to the right of 'R2D2' at the base of a large flake that slants leftwards. Climb the flake to the wide groove above. Up this and move up to a crack leading past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 31

Climb the thin crack to the right of the previous route, and finish rightwards up the black slab above.

Historic route number: 43

This climb takes the wide crack just to the left of the tree. At 15' move out onto the right wall, and move up to the right of a small tree into a shallow scoop. Exit up the awkward crack behind the tree.

Historic route number: 45

To the right of the previous route is a tree root coming straight out of a crack. Climb the crack to the top.

Historic route number: 48

A few feet to the right of 'A Lie of the Mind' is a massive detached boulder. Climb the arete of the boulder to a crack. Up this to a narrow chimney and the finish.

Historic route number: 50

Start under the obvious scoop of rock with a high first bolt. Continuous and fun with some runouts.

This route was rebolted in January 2020. The bolt placements were kept the same as the FA party. There is also a new lower-off anchor.

One of the original lines, rebolted in 2020.

A few variations possible, but hardest and most interesting is straight up a thinner start under the first bolt.

The second bolted route. Begin up a tricky slab to great holds. Through an easy slab to a short steep section and a lower-off anchor (hooks - no need to clean).

Just left of where the middle vegetation starts. Similar to the last climb, mantle to an easy slab and finish up on steep holds, ending to the right of the tree. Lower-off anchor.

A Steep romp up perfect jugs to a lower-off anchor.