루트들 Kathmandu Area에서

(27.822112, 85.26675) V5+ at mountainproject, 7A at 27crags. Crimps, a jug, a sloper and a pinch culminating in a big move up over a roof. Top out is over the roof but it just might turn into an entire pitch climb in the future. Location: Center at the base of the Kakani wall.

Topo.

#SD Topo.

Topo.

On the left side of the rock face. The darker colored rock just to the right of a lighter colored water run off. A #6 is painted at the base. Possibly the hardest route here. Slightly overhanging, slippery and relatively blank face to the right of the water run off on the left side of the wall. 1st bolt cut? May need to stick clip to reach the upper bolts. Lowest bolt may be cut, stick clip probably a good idea for this one.

Topo.

Pass the final grey tufa to the right for this harder variation. The right side of the tufa has a separate bolt. The anchor is shared with the left variation and is well above the grey tufa. The lower route can also be fully climbed on the face to the right of the bolt line, avoiding several of the good pockets on the left side. 6c+ at 8a.nu.

Really nice crack crux.

Route branches left below the final grey tufa with a separate bolt on the left side of the tufa. The anchor is well above the grey tufa. Shares the anchor with the right variation.

#SD under the lip with a right hand crimp. Move up to a shelf and keep moving to the second shelf and finally the top out. LOcation: Head down the winding trail from the Kakani main wall passing a few small boulders until a clearing with an obviously cleaned face on the left.

Topo.

#SD Located next to the northeast arete. Lay back the first few moves, reach up to ugly holds, finish off by getting your left foot high and ruck up.

On the left middle face, the left most of three bolted lines. Has a large pocket near the first bolt. For some reason, butterflies seem to like this pocket. On the left middle face, left most of the three. A nice pocket but poor and slippery feet, especially after your shoes get a little clay on them from walking around the base! Get much easier after the lower crux.

Without using the huge handholds away and right.

Start to the left hand side of "Thread Flintstone", just past the gully. Work your way up beside the gully using the trees as anchor points, from the second tree traverse around to the left, head stright up past the first small over hang to gain a small cave. From here go up past the next small over hang and traverse right to gain top out. From here its a scramble to the top of a rock formation once ontop find the piton and tree for use of anchor points. This climb was completed using nuts and slings, the use of cams would drop the grade of the climb.

From the small groves with evidence of fire, climb up and right to gain the leftward trending crack. Follow this up to the base of a small tree. Go down and left underneath the tree and ascent the rock directly above it to a small niche. Gain composer for the bold movements to the top.From here head to the right of another tree under an overhang. Gain the overhang and move right and pull up to a small cave, left and up to top out. Possible belays on the way up , be careful of the rock as it is lose and may not hold a seconds weight. Double ropes adviced as the first ascent was done with a single and the rope drag was immense. First ascent was done with just nuts and slings, the grade will be decreased if other types of protection are used.

A bolted route that starts at the left hand edge of the black face.

New route between "The Belly" and "Route 7". It has its own start and after the third bolt it’s shares a short section of "Route 7" and then it continues straight up to its own anchor (anchor is about 5 meters higher then the one of "Route 7").

As the name suggests.

Located about a meter to the right of "Mossy But Not Moist". #SD with right hand high and left hand round the out crop, work your way up to the ledge and mantleshelf to gain finish.

#SD 1m right of "Smack the Donkey". Smear with small handholds. Well excuted move to gain the top avoiding the line of grass just below it.

Starting from the closest point of the boulder to the back wall. A bridging exercise to gain the top of the boulder.

The narrow face right of the chimney and left of the arete. Climbs to the left of the arete and right of the chimney. Probably best done as a top rope after climbing the chimney ("Route 14") since the bolts are mostly on the other side of the arete shared with route 16. Anchor shared with route 14

Can't miss it. Look for the big chimney. This is probably the most distinct and fun route in the area. Start at the base of the prominent chimney. The bolts for this route run along the right side. Stem your way up. You need to climb up to clip the 4th bolt (works best of you extend this one), then move down a bit and traverse left. The next small, bulging section is the crux. Follow on through to the easy climbing. There is one more small bulging section to climb through right before the anchor.

One arms length to the right of the number 8 painted on the wall. Nice features, favorite route on this wall.

Directly above the Number 8 painted on the wall. Nice climb.

Start a few metres right of "Swiss Cheese" and a small gully. Climb the crack line in between the overhangs and up to a small ledge with a vertical crack leading up wards. Follow this up and right to finish in between large flakes. For a direct finish climb up the vertical crack to a small niche and cave move left around the cave and up with some interesting moves to finsh just up and right of the tree in the gully.

5c ledgy climbing with 2 6a cruxes.

Mostly 5c with a 6a crux.

Start just left of a bridge over the river. Smearing under the overhang, step up traversing left. Finishing just left of the top block.

Up the clean slab just left of the pill of crops on the boulders black face. Up to the arete and traversing right to top out.

On the southwest facing arete, start with right foot on sloping ledge, reach up for the first jug, move up the arete and finish with the steps at the top.

Start at the middle of the boulder, work you way up to the out crop, traverse left on the ledge, then finish of by heading right over the tuft of grass.

Can be made easier by using some good holds a bit on the left side of the route

There are at least two major variations on this route: one keeping to the right and one keeping to the left. The one to the right that follows the arrete like feature to the top is probably the easiest route on the whole crag, maybe 5b. The one to the left is somewhat trickier, maybe 5c+

Easy but run-out.

Fun new route, following the central chimney in the middle of the crag. Best bolted and least run-out route on the crag.

Easy but quite run-out.

4+4 bolts. From the chimney, walk downslope to the right face. Route 15 and 16 climb the arete on the right of the chimney. First pitch of route 17 heads directly up the face. Gets you above treeline to see Kathmandu and Swayambhunath at the second anchors. Totally worth it. Second pitch is the crux pitch

First route right of the three routes with 7 and 8 painted below them. Pleasant route with a couple ways to pull the crux.

On the left face. Follows the lighter colored rock up the water run off groove. Very slippery rock from the water run off, particularly before the first bolt. Gets easier with more features near the top. Shares anchor with route 4.

Two routes left of the chimney. Easy low angle to a few moves just before the anchors.

Follows a broken crack in the lower angled bowl to the left of the chimney and right of the harder routes on the middle left face. 3m to the left of a larger tree growing part way up. In the center of the broad face/ crack about 5m to the left of the chimney. Easy crack with great holds and one tricky spot near the last bolt.

On the left face near a lighter colored crack from water run off. Route 5 follows that stain directly, route 4 is the bolt line up the face to the left with shared anchors. Slightly more challenging than the 4c to the left. A few tricky and slippery spots.

One the left face, third line of bolts from the left. Follows a left leaning crack that felt a bit slippery in spots.

Another good warm out route. Second route on the wall. Have a #2 painted at the base and is the obvious bolt line to the right of the painted #1.

First route on the far left side of the wall. A good warm up. Anchor is just below a large tree at the top of the pitch. Furthest route to the left on the wall. Has a fresh 1 painted in yellow and green at the base.